chris watton

Well, I worked all day today, continuing Surprise stuff.
 
This morning, I decided to make the templates for the fore and quarterdeck bulwarks, which are to be pre-cut. So first, the upper deck and beams were to be removed. My initial idea was to do the same I did for Indy, with most of the outer sides planked. 
 
However, I could not get the thought out of my mind just how nice the sides would look if they were pre-cut and engraved, with treenail detail - that would look great when painted ochre (or just varnished). So, with this in mind, I made a template for the whole of the hull side down to the top of the main wale line (or in Surprise's case, where the planks get thicker).
 
The pics show the end result of a day’s work, with many templates laser cut in white PolyBak, with each successive template (and there were many) tweaked a little more until, eventually, the final template is cut in the material that will be used in the kit, pear, shown in the pics. There was no warping to the undersides near the bow, and curved around very nicely on my disposable 'mule hull'
 
The downside to this, and the reason I initially dismissed doing this, is cost (0.8mm pear sheet needing to be 800mm long and 4 required just for the outer hull) and time. It will increase the overall cost to the kit. But it does mean planking, like on the smaller kits in the range, is relegated to the bottom half of the hull only, with all upper sides being completely pre-cut and laser engraved. It also means I can work slots into the bulwark sides for the fore, main and mizzen channels, these worked very well for the new Speedy and Harpy.
 
I hope I have made the right choice..
 
Oh, for the rudder fixing, I am doing the same as I did for Indy, with 3-d printed gudgeon and pintles that simply slot into the rudder and rudder post, I do very much like this method as it is both simple and looks accurate.
 

Well, I worked all day today, continuing Surprise stuff.
 
This morning, I decided to make the templates for the fore and quarterdeck bulwarks, which are to be pre-cut. So first, the upper deck and beams were to be removed. My initial idea was to do the same I did for Indy, with most of the outer sides planked. 
 
However, I could not get the thought out of my mind just how nice the sides would look if they were pre-cut and engraved, with treenail detail - that would look great when painted ochre (or just varnished). So, with this in mind, I made a template for the whole of the hull side down to the top of the main wale line (or in Surprise's case, where the planks get thicker).
 
The pics show the end result of a day’s work, with many templates laser cut in white PolyBak, with each successive template (and there were many) tweaked a little more until, eventually, the final template is cut in the material that will be used in the kit, pear, shown in the pics. There was no warping to the undersides near the bow, and curved around very nicely on my disposable 'mule hull'
 
The downside to this, and the reason I initially dismissed doing this, is cost (0.8mm pear sheet needing to be 800mm long and 4 required just for the outer hull) and time. It will increase the overall cost to the kit. But it does mean planking, like on the smaller kits in the range, is relegated to the bottom half of the hull only, with all upper sides being completely pre-cut and laser engraved. It also means I can work slots into the bulwark sides for the fore, main and mizzen channels, these worked very well for the new Speedy and Harpy.
 
I hope I have made the right choice..
 
Oh, for the rudder fixing, I am doing the same as I did for Indy, with 3-d printed gudgeon and pintles that simply slot into the rudder and rudder post, I do very much like this method as it is both simple and looks accurate.
 

I know that Cutty Sark was an Hachette parts work development, which I thought was a shame, as I think that was a great looking model and very detailed.
 
Not sure about Prince, I know I did give it a redesign about 11/12 years ago from my earlier 2002 original, with gun ports incorporated into the hull:
 



 
Even a fully detailed Royal Mail carriage!

Finished the figurehead. A lion. 

Update:
 
Okay...The last few days I've been busy with the quarter gallery on the port side. Now halfway...and here's a small photo report
 
Started by filling in the slots where the parts that would normally be used without the openwork galleries would go.
First check carefully where exactly they should start and end so that you know later where the replacement parts should go.
 

 
Copied the pieces (used boxwood for this)
 


 
Then started with the construction of the "seat of ease". First a base plate on the back so that there is a flat surface
 

 
The "seat of ease" made from various pieces of boxwood. I found the sanding disc easy to use here to get the right angles. Just work your way up to it slowly instead of sanding away large chunks.
 

 
 
 Painted it a nice coat "off white", like the rest of my interior
 

 
Rooftop piece:
 

 
Then the first underlying window piece. Used many different clamps here to get it right. Tip: practice clamping without glue beforehand...so you know when you're working with the glue where everything should go...less stressful  
 

 
I extended the window piece that goes over the base layer because I want to use as little filler as possible afterwards. This way I can slowly work towards the perfect shape. To be honest, I have to say that it didn't work out as well on the port side as on the starboard side. I was still a bit too impatient or something and had a small seam here and there . I worked these away with some glue and sanding dust. Eventually there will be a layer of paint over it anyway so it doesn't matter. But I think these are fun challenges (which don't always turn out well haha  ) 
 

 
Finally the roof placed...not much to tell about that other than slowly working towards the final shape. For the most part used the sanding disc again.
 

 
That's it for now. Will continue with the bottom part and post an update later. Haven't placed the floor of the quartergallery yet. I personally think it's easier if I place it together with part 29 (it will become clearer ;) )
 

Well, I worked all day today, continuing Surprise stuff.
 
This morning, I decided to make the templates for the fore and quarterdeck bulwarks, which are to be pre-cut. So first, the upper deck and beams were to be removed. My initial idea was to do the same I did for Indy, with most of the outer sides planked. 
 
However, I could not get the thought out of my mind just how nice the sides would look if they were pre-cut and engraved, with treenail detail - that would look great when painted ochre (or just varnished). So, with this in mind, I made a template for the whole of the hull side down to the top of the main wale line (or in Surprise's case, where the planks get thicker).
 
The pics show the end result of a day’s work, with many templates laser cut in white PolyBak, with each successive template (and there were many) tweaked a little more until, eventually, the final template is cut in the material that will be used in the kit, pear, shown in the pics. There was no warping to the undersides near the bow, and curved around very nicely on my disposable 'mule hull'
 
The downside to this, and the reason I initially dismissed doing this, is cost (0.8mm pear sheet needing to be 800mm long and 4 required just for the outer hull) and time. It will increase the overall cost to the kit. But it does mean planking, like on the smaller kits in the range, is relegated to the bottom half of the hull only, with all upper sides being completely pre-cut and laser engraved. It also means I can work slots into the bulwark sides for the fore, main and mizzen channels, these worked very well for the new Speedy and Harpy.
 
I hope I have made the right choice..
 
Oh, for the rudder fixing, I am doing the same as I did for Indy, with 3-d printed gudgeon and pintles that simply slot into the rudder and rudder post, I do very much like this method as it is both simple and looks accurate.
 

Me too! Will eat it whilst watching Ben Hur tomorrow!

I know that Cutty Sark was an Hachette parts work development, which I thought was a shame, as I think that was a great looking model and very detailed.
 
Not sure about Prince, I know I did give it a redesign about 11/12 years ago from my earlier 2002 original, with gun ports incorporated into the hull:
 



 
Even a fully detailed Royal Mail carriage!

Well, I worked all day today, continuing Surprise stuff.
 
This morning, I decided to make the templates for the fore and quarterdeck bulwarks, which are to be pre-cut. So first, the upper deck and beams were to be removed. My initial idea was to do the same I did for Indy, with most of the outer sides planked. 
 
However, I could not get the thought out of my mind just how nice the sides would look if they were pre-cut and engraved, with treenail detail - that would look great when painted ochre (or just varnished). So, with this in mind, I made a template for the whole of the hull side down to the top of the main wale line (or in Surprise's case, where the planks get thicker).
 
The pics show the end result of a day’s work, with many templates laser cut in white PolyBak, with each successive template (and there were many) tweaked a little more until, eventually, the final template is cut in the material that will be used in the kit, pear, shown in the pics. There was no warping to the undersides near the bow, and curved around very nicely on my disposable 'mule hull'
 
The downside to this, and the reason I initially dismissed doing this, is cost (0.8mm pear sheet needing to be 800mm long and 4 required just for the outer hull) and time. It will increase the overall cost to the kit. But it does mean planking, like on the smaller kits in the range, is relegated to the bottom half of the hull only, with all upper sides being completely pre-cut and laser engraved. It also means I can work slots into the bulwark sides for the fore, main and mizzen channels, these worked very well for the new Speedy and Harpy.
 
I hope I have made the right choice..
 
Oh, for the rudder fixing, I am doing the same as I did for Indy, with 3-d printed gudgeon and pintles that simply slot into the rudder and rudder post, I do very much like this method as it is both simple and looks accurate.
 

Well, I worked all day today, continuing Surprise stuff.
 
This morning, I decided to make the templates for the fore and quarterdeck bulwarks, which are to be pre-cut. So first, the upper deck and beams were to be removed. My initial idea was to do the same I did for Indy, with most of the outer sides planked. 
 
However, I could not get the thought out of my mind just how nice the sides would look if they were pre-cut and engraved, with treenail detail - that would look great when painted ochre (or just varnished). So, with this in mind, I made a template for the whole of the hull side down to the top of the main wale line (or in Surprise's case, where the planks get thicker).
 
The pics show the end result of a day’s work, with many templates laser cut in white PolyBak, with each successive template (and there were many) tweaked a little more until, eventually, the final template is cut in the material that will be used in the kit, pear, shown in the pics. There was no warping to the undersides near the bow, and curved around very nicely on my disposable 'mule hull'
 
The downside to this, and the reason I initially dismissed doing this, is cost (0.8mm pear sheet needing to be 800mm long and 4 required just for the outer hull) and time. It will increase the overall cost to the kit. But it does mean planking, like on the smaller kits in the range, is relegated to the bottom half of the hull only, with all upper sides being completely pre-cut and laser engraved. It also means I can work slots into the bulwark sides for the fore, main and mizzen channels, these worked very well for the new Speedy and Harpy.
 
I hope I have made the right choice..
 
Oh, for the rudder fixing, I am doing the same as I did for Indy, with 3-d printed gudgeon and pintles that simply slot into the rudder and rudder post, I do very much like this method as it is both simple and looks accurate.
 

Well, I worked all day today, continuing Surprise stuff.
 
This morning, I decided to make the templates for the fore and quarterdeck bulwarks, which are to be pre-cut. So first, the upper deck and beams were to be removed. My initial idea was to do the same I did for Indy, with most of the outer sides planked. 
 
However, I could not get the thought out of my mind just how nice the sides would look if they were pre-cut and engraved, with treenail detail - that would look great when painted ochre (or just varnished). So, with this in mind, I made a template for the whole of the hull side down to the top of the main wale line (or in Surprise's case, where the planks get thicker).
 
The pics show the end result of a day’s work, with many templates laser cut in white PolyBak, with each successive template (and there were many) tweaked a little more until, eventually, the final template is cut in the material that will be used in the kit, pear, shown in the pics. There was no warping to the undersides near the bow, and curved around very nicely on my disposable 'mule hull'
 
The downside to this, and the reason I initially dismissed doing this, is cost (0.8mm pear sheet needing to be 800mm long and 4 required just for the outer hull) and time. It will increase the overall cost to the kit. But it does mean planking, like on the smaller kits in the range, is relegated to the bottom half of the hull only, with all upper sides being completely pre-cut and laser engraved. It also means I can work slots into the bulwark sides for the fore, main and mizzen channels, these worked very well for the new Speedy and Harpy.
 
I hope I have made the right choice..
 
Oh, for the rudder fixing, I am doing the same as I did for Indy, with 3-d printed gudgeon and pintles that simply slot into the rudder and rudder post, I do very much like this method as it is both simple and looks accurate.
 

I know that Cutty Sark was an Hachette parts work development, which I thought was a shame, as I think that was a great looking model and very detailed.
 
Not sure about Prince, I know I did give it a redesign about 11/12 years ago from my earlier 2002 original, with gun ports incorporated into the hull:
 



 
Even a fully detailed Royal Mail carriage!

I finished the knees over the weekend and also created and installed the curved rail for the rudder tiller. Although I'm still missing the rearmost angled knees which are tricky to make.
I had some difficulty installing the curved rail at the correct height under the beams, I opted to install it under a riser so the ends were at the correct height and the rail perpendicular to the keel. I looked at some photos of the HMS Victory for comparison.
Next I will be partially planking the battery deck and preparing the pulleys for the tiller.
Also, you might have noticed my photos are better quality, I just bought a new phone. 📷

I finally got around to working on the rudder. Metalwork is something I'm very bad at, and I've been struggling a lot with the rudder hinges. In the end they turned out fine and I think the solder is strong enough so the pinion won't break off. 🤞

During the last couple of weeks I finished all the rudder hinges, they weren't easy to make but I'm happy with the result. I haven't decided what to do with the upper hinge on the stern, the rest have a piece of planking beneath them but this one has a lot of curvature so I'm not sure if it'll look good. Also, keeping in mind that the planks would go across the hinge, not along it.
By the way, the rudder turns just fine on the hinges. 😄

I've also been working on the main deck, much of what you see is only loosely attached until I install the rudder and the tiller (I'll need access below in order to seize the rigging).

After finishing the tiller I'll most likely start working on the stern and side galleries, I'm getting a bit tired of making decks so the stern deck will have to wait.

I'm continuing with the stern and side galleries. I decided to make the stern piece out of one piece only, even though on the real ship it would probably have been planked. The sheet I used has a lot of grain so it's not easy to see that it's just one piece. I just think it looks better this way.
For the side galleries, the plans are not very specific. There are only side and top views, and no indication of how it's built up. I'm building it the way I imagine it was built originally, more or less.
Almost everything will be covered by moulding strips, which I'll make much later out of boxwood.

I know that Cutty Sark was an Hachette parts work development, which I thought was a shame, as I think that was a great looking model and very detailed.
 
Not sure about Prince, I know I did give it a redesign about 11/12 years ago from my earlier 2002 original, with gun ports incorporated into the hull:
 



 
Even a fully detailed Royal Mail carriage!

I know that Cutty Sark was an Hachette parts work development, which I thought was a shame, as I think that was a great looking model and very detailed.
 
Not sure about Prince, I know I did give it a redesign about 11/12 years ago from my earlier 2002 original, with gun ports incorporated into the hull:
 



 
Even a fully detailed Royal Mail carriage!

I know that Cutty Sark was an Hachette parts work development, which I thought was a shame, as I think that was a great looking model and very detailed.
 
Not sure about Prince, I know I did give it a redesign about 11/12 years ago from my earlier 2002 original, with gun ports incorporated into the hull:
 



 
Even a fully detailed Royal Mail carriage!

Thanks everyone for the likes and kind comments - much appreciated.
 
Bowlines – This is the first model to which I’ve added bowlines and with all the other lines present it is quite a challenge. On reflection, I wish that I had added them to Diana I used 0.2mm line. Each bowline begins by being tied to the yard with a timberhitch. The foremast bowlines lead down through the blocks on the jib or bowsprit, through the saddle and to the bowsprit step.


The main mast bowlines again start from a timberhitch on the yard. The topgallant lines feed through holes in the fore topmast trestle trees, the topmast through the outer blocks on the foremast top and the main course through the blocks at the base of the foremast. All lines are tied off at the forward bitts.


To be honest I struggled to get them into their proper place so some lines just run to where I could reach. Maybe, I should have checked how all the ropes ran down to the bitts before starting the rigging, I would also have just trimmed the lines and left off all the hanks and coils until the end.
Well that completes the rigging which was by turns challenging and frustrating and the most complicated that I have tackled so far. There’s a lot of rope in a such a confined space. I’m glad that I'm not adding sails and their associated ropes.

It's hard to see all the smaller ropes but I'll take some better shots when she's finished.
 
David
 
 

Chris
 
This morning my wonderful wife gave me my Easter egg as expected.  But, she said that because I love working in miniature, she'd found something really appropriate.  A Cadbury creme egg.
 
Nipper

I love seeing the prototyping and reading about the method and thought that goes into in. Great that you're sharing. Thanks!
 
Cheers,
 
Todd 

Well, I worked all day today, continuing Surprise stuff.
 
This morning, I decided to make the templates for the fore and quarterdeck bulwarks, which are to be pre-cut. So first, the upper deck and beams were to be removed. My initial idea was to do the same I did for Indy, with most of the outer sides planked. 
 
However, I could not get the thought out of my mind just how nice the sides would look if they were pre-cut and engraved, with treenail detail - that would look great when painted ochre (or just varnished). So, with this in mind, I made a template for the whole of the hull side down to the top of the main wale line (or in Surprise's case, where the planks get thicker).
 
The pics show the end result of a day’s work, with many templates laser cut in white PolyBak, with each successive template (and there were many) tweaked a little more until, eventually, the final template is cut in the material that will be used in the kit, pear, shown in the pics. There was no warping to the undersides near the bow, and curved around very nicely on my disposable 'mule hull'
 
The downside to this, and the reason I initially dismissed doing this, is cost (0.8mm pear sheet needing to be 800mm long and 4 required just for the outer hull) and time. It will increase the overall cost to the kit. But it does mean planking, like on the smaller kits in the range, is relegated to the bottom half of the hull only, with all upper sides being completely pre-cut and laser engraved. It also means I can work slots into the bulwark sides for the fore, main and mizzen channels, these worked very well for the new Speedy and Harpy.
 
I hope I have made the right choice..
 
Oh, for the rudder fixing, I am doing the same as I did for Indy, with 3-d printed gudgeon and pintles that simply slot into the rudder and rudder post, I do very much like this method as it is both simple and looks accurate.
 

Well, I worked all day today, continuing Surprise stuff.
 
This morning, I decided to make the templates for the fore and quarterdeck bulwarks, which are to be pre-cut. So first, the upper deck and beams were to be removed. My initial idea was to do the same I did for Indy, with most of the outer sides planked. 
 
However, I could not get the thought out of my mind just how nice the sides would look if they were pre-cut and engraved, with treenail detail - that would look great when painted ochre (or just varnished). So, with this in mind, I made a template for the whole of the hull side down to the top of the main wale line (or in Surprise's case, where the planks get thicker).
 
The pics show the end result of a day’s work, with many templates laser cut in white PolyBak, with each successive template (and there were many) tweaked a little more until, eventually, the final template is cut in the material that will be used in the kit, pear, shown in the pics. There was no warping to the undersides near the bow, and curved around very nicely on my disposable 'mule hull'
 
The downside to this, and the reason I initially dismissed doing this, is cost (0.8mm pear sheet needing to be 800mm long and 4 required just for the outer hull) and time. It will increase the overall cost to the kit. But it does mean planking, like on the smaller kits in the range, is relegated to the bottom half of the hull only, with all upper sides being completely pre-cut and laser engraved. It also means I can work slots into the bulwark sides for the fore, main and mizzen channels, these worked very well for the new Speedy and Harpy.
 
I hope I have made the right choice..
 
Oh, for the rudder fixing, I am doing the same as I did for Indy, with 3-d printed gudgeon and pintles that simply slot into the rudder and rudder post, I do very much like this method as it is both simple and looks accurate.
 

Well, I worked all day today, continuing Surprise stuff.
 
This morning, I decided to make the templates for the fore and quarterdeck bulwarks, which are to be pre-cut. So first, the upper deck and beams were to be removed. My initial idea was to do the same I did for Indy, with most of the outer sides planked. 
 
However, I could not get the thought out of my mind just how nice the sides would look if they were pre-cut and engraved, with treenail detail - that would look great when painted ochre (or just varnished). So, with this in mind, I made a template for the whole of the hull side down to the top of the main wale line (or in Surprise's case, where the planks get thicker).
 
The pics show the end result of a day’s work, with many templates laser cut in white PolyBak, with each successive template (and there were many) tweaked a little more until, eventually, the final template is cut in the material that will be used in the kit, pear, shown in the pics. There was no warping to the undersides near the bow, and curved around very nicely on my disposable 'mule hull'
 
The downside to this, and the reason I initially dismissed doing this, is cost (0.8mm pear sheet needing to be 800mm long and 4 required just for the outer hull) and time. It will increase the overall cost to the kit. But it does mean planking, like on the smaller kits in the range, is relegated to the bottom half of the hull only, with all upper sides being completely pre-cut and laser engraved. It also means I can work slots into the bulwark sides for the fore, main and mizzen channels, these worked very well for the new Speedy and Harpy.
 
I hope I have made the right choice..
 
Oh, for the rudder fixing, I am doing the same as I did for Indy, with 3-d printed gudgeon and pintles that simply slot into the rudder and rudder post, I do very much like this method as it is both simple and looks accurate.