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oakheart

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Posts posted by oakheart

  1. 3 minutes ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

    I thought you were being a bit optimistic at 10mm diameter.

    I have found some 25mm ( 1 inch ) dia. ready made sleeves. I now have to make something that will fit in the chuck and spin true.

    The workshop is too cold today, so will work on the hull instead.

     

    Tim

  2. The thickness sander I cobbled together for the cedar planks needs rebuilding, he double sided tape on the sandpaper keeps letting go

    so the next hull is on hold.

    Instead, I have started on the floor and internal parts on the Basswood hull.

    Not sure of the correct flooring layout, so have copied what I can see in the photos of other builds

     

    I will add photos later, just having my morning coffee.

    Tim

  3. 7 hours ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

     big clear Danish Archive copy of the Rattlesnake drawing

    Hi Craig, thanks I had not seen that, it will be very useful.

    Interestingly the access stairs are shown running fore and aft, on ZAZ7910 they are shown sideways.
    It would make no difference to a typical hull model, but it shows the difference that could happen with different builders

     

    What is great is that you can read the text, I have transcribed the mast sizes

     

    Rattlesnake Dimensions of masts

    Main mast         78’ 6”      20.5” dia
    BowSpreet         38’ 6”     18”
    Boom                    58’ 10”  12 5/8”
    Gaff                       40’          9”
    Storm Gaff          17’          9 3/8”
    Top Gallant         35’ 10”  9”
    Square sail yard 49’ 8”    9”
    Top Sail Yard       36’ 9”     8 ½”
    Mizen Mast        38’ 2”     9 ½”
    Out  Rigger          33’ 9”     8  ¼”
    Yards                     30’          6 ½”
    Jibb Boom           30’ 8”     7 ½”
    Driver Boom       27’          6 ¾”

     

    Tim

  4. 10 hours ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

    Taking a stab at it, from the comment about being short of white (paint) for the small cutter I'd guess all the boats were painted white (impress the natives) with the sheer probably painted in a colour that somehow matched the Bounty.

    Sometime before leaving Tahiti the bottom of the launch was painted with half pitch half tar (probably coal pitch (black) and pine (or Stockholm) tar (anything from light amber to dark brown)). The effect was probably a brown/black wash over the white leaving the launch rather dirty/shabby in appearance

    I think that's what I will aim for, it will cover up all my mistakes, with a bit of extra weathering from the journey I think it could look very interesting.

     

    Add a bit of dried blood spatter on the inside from those boobies they ate raw.

    Mind a good deal of that would have been washed away by all the sea water coming into the boat and being bailed out again.

     

    Tim

     

  5. On 1/23/2022 at 5:37 AM, iMustBeCrazy said:

    Lapwing was launched sometime before 25th Jan 1817 when she was reported as having run aground. Where and when she was launched in unknown to me.

    Hi Craig, I made it here, some really nice research. Have you completed the drawings?

    I am just starting out on my interpretation of the Rattlesnake built at Folkstone ( sister to Alert ) so all of the information gathered here

    will help me on my way.

     

    Tim

  6. 11 hours ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

    issues the gaps, the bows, the transom

     

    Lessons learned so far:

     

    Pay more attention to the early stages. Like cutting and sanding the frames to shape.

     

    Do more work on fitting the planks, I did find it tedious to keep putting in on to check, take it off to sand, put it back on bla,bla,bla

     

    Try different methods of clamping

     

    I need to slow down and not try to rush things.

     

    At these small scales I need to learn to use a more delicate approach with my tools.

     

    So my thinking is to move on to the next hull build and leave the 2nd fixings of internal details for later.

    That way I still have my planking skills ( ha. ha. ) fresh.

     

    I may experiment with more planks on the next hull, we don't know how many the original had anyway

    and it should lessen the problem I had with planks not laying flat.

    The Cornish Maritime Museum full size build used 14 per side, I think maybe they did that for the same reason.

     

    Tim

     

    off for a coffee and a read of Craig's cutter drawing log

  7. 8 hours ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

    19th century?

    Nice work on the cutter, way ahead of me as usual 🙂

    I am going to read the whole thread with my coffee. It could be a candidate for a build.

     

    I was in Melbourne / Sydney  in October 2022 visiting relatives, shame I had not found this community at that time. 

    Did a bit of research into the First Fleet while I was there. 

     

    Tim

  8. 5 hours ago, Montaigne said:

    why you choose cedar? 

    Chuck Passaro and others have been singing the praises of Alaskan Yellow Cedar, look for Chucks longboat build log on this site.

    I then found somewhere in the UK to get some so ordered some. It does look nice and works beautifully.

     

    Basswood ( Lime in UK ) carves beautifully with sharp tools but it goes all kind of fluffy / stringy when you sand it.

    Using a brand new Stanley Knife blade as a scraper gives a really good surface finish.

    As long as you don't get glue on the surface, It will stain nicely to any wood colour you want.
    I have a love / hate relationship with it on this build.

     

    Tim

  9. 1 hour ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

     the next one will be even better.

    make up a brace to hold the sides in until you have fitted the thwarts (see my small cutter #27).

     

    Thanks Craig, once my head has settled down, I will do all of the things you suggest. 

     

    As to what's next as a build ( apart from the my Bounty Launch in cedar )

    Do I get a kit or do another scratch ?

     

    I am rather taken by the 18th century Cutters.

    The Sherbourne and Lady Nelson?  I think they look kind of dumpy, some would say cute.

    so possibly an Alert / Rattlesnake much more elegant.

    The Rattlesnake appeals because I had family from Folkestone ( my Uncle Stan ) 

    As a pensioner I can't justify the cost of the Vanguard Alert kit, it does look nice. Are there others out there?

    For a scratch there is a good amount of information about both, AntonyUK and others on this site have done drawings for them.

    I will do some more research and look for information, there are some good scratch build logs on here built from the Goodwin book.

     

    Tim

     

  10. 15 hours ago, Montaigne said:

    Every time we make a mistake, albeit at a price, we learn something new.

     

    I have heard that "we learn nothing from success", can't remember who said  it.

    Thank you for the encouraging words, they help to keep the fire going.

    Thanks too to all the lurking likers 🙂

     

    moving on, whats next?

    Thwarts and gunwales I guess.

     

    Tim

     

  11. Well here we are, I finished the planking and let the glue set overnight.
    Then with great trepidation I cut the frames away from the jig. With some wriggling and gentle pushing the hull popped off.

     

    179135125_hullremovedfromjig.JPG.3bb050f3acf1a19597eb7c04235838fc.JPG

     

    Now some detail shots

     

    External

    1006677223_hullexternalview.jpg.b1037d5da3aaf5d9d66bb2ce80a7a28a.jpg

     

    Inside from stern and stem

     

    1634153079_insidefromstern.JPG.3ea515e2f4b974d7f02defe45906017b.JPG720609283_insidefromstem.JPG.c0d1432676d6b7e27f5547a012f2afad.JPG

     

    close up 

     

    1339080756_insidecustern.JPG.027bad8c608e54620f0f10c02e04526b.JPG

     

    830437571_insidecumid.JPG.47f5a2552c982f88f813b8d09bf1358f.JPG

     

    369430695_insidecustem.JPG.a0c269235bfcc5a81411733ba548d70d.JPG

     

    I am really pleased with my very first plank on frame.

    It needs a fair bit of fettling, I have learned a lot by doing this

     

    The frames need a lot of sanding, but I have learned to be careful when sanding....

     

    2019001860_smallholefromsanding.JPG.83346f0a186e20eebbb7a44e616f47ae.JPG

     

    I think I can fix this by gluing in a patch on the inside

     

    so as a proof of concept it worked.

    Comments please.

     

    Tim

    inside long view.JPG

  12. 2 minutes ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

    My take on the masking tape method.

    A piece of tape is placed on the model overlapping the preceding plank. 

    I will have to try this with tape, all of the tape I have at the moment is opaque.

    I have used some 90gsm tracing paper which sort of works.

    The  problem with using paper is its a bit stiff and when transfering the shape to the wood, you have to cut the paper to shape then run a pencil round the edge,  it's awkward and fiddly to get accurate. The tape method looks much simpler to do.

    I will look for some different masking tape, I tried parcel tape and sellotape, but could not get any marks, pencil or pen to stay on the tape. 

    I see some people have used the special 'invisible'  matte tape which I don't have.

     

    Tim

  13. 6 minutes ago, iMustBeCrazy said:

    Right or wrong, this is what I do.

     

    Wow, thanks Craig.

    I have only a couple of planks left to bodge on this build, ( the dirty boat ) but on the cedar version this is what I will do.

    I have copied and pasted it into a word document and will print it out so I can refer to it.

    Tim

  14. 19 minutes ago, Wintergreen said:

    Don't let your heart sink though. It IS a learning experience!

    Keep it up!

    Thanks for that Håkan.

    I do need to remember that this is going to be my 'dirty' boat so any errors will be hidden, the next version in cedar wood is the one that I want to look good.

     

    I will read you build log.

     

    Tim

     

     

  15. The planking has been ongoing.
    I am really not sure about it being correct. I need some advice.

    The way the planks are tapered from the frame towards the stem looks odd, but I cant figure out what it is I've got wrong?

    IMG_2847.JPG.6483fba982ecb4a95eb3785a98281ac5.JPG

     

    should it be more like the penciled in line ?

     

    IMG_2844.JPG.98db9a92993d6119e0b355dfdcd43136.JPGIMG_2846.JPG.f4812fc1645fcbca0926be4bef16640e.JPGIMG_2845.JPG.26887c2f87ebc98fecfaf6f55cff114b.JPGIMG_2841.JPG.e708fe87dfe115c008ae734af98e1f47.JPG

     

    With the photo above , I can also see that I missed the tick mark on the stem one plank up, that can't be helping.

     

    Tim

     

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