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oakheart

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Posts posted by oakheart

  1. 2 hours ago, Thukydides said:

    measure the angle.

    So I measured the angle on Bills drawing and as far as I can tell its the same as the RMG drawing.

    speedycuttershowingwaterline.jpg.fd2f091110229e341a9d85b8fc4ecc73.jpg

     

    That's assuming LWL means the water level.

     

    Here is my stand with a 10mm spacer that brings it up to the correct angle, I think this looks too steep.

     

    correctwaterlevel.jpg.47a729e2ddb2018015219da5086604b3.jpg

     

    Probably half that would do it, I love tinkering until it looks right, all part of the build for me.

     

    Tim

  2. On 4/27/2025 at 1:41 PM, Thukydides said:

    I feel like the two keel holders are too close together

     

    OK. I have gone for a satin black base. I think this works, some of the contemporary models at RMG have black stands.

    satinblackstandsideviewcu.jpg.d7772fe71d2e0890c17bc1d3748dfd65.jpg

     

    satinblackstand1.jpg.7ce5f1dd9528d316d2399336286dcf47.jpg

     

    @Thukydides Thanks for the comment,  I have spaced them out further and the model is then not level, is that important?

    I suppose the mast needs to be vertical, but as its not yet fixed in place, difficult to tell

     

    as you say this is all down to a personal choice.

     

    Tim

  3. On 10/30/2024 at 5:25 PM, Christopher Lincoln said:

    It makes me happy to see people still building Speedy!

    Hi Christopher, my build which was inspired by this build by Thunder and is already nearly two years in the making.

    I wish I could have  thanked Bill in person. It's great to have  a relative of his on the forum.

    Do you make model ships as well?

     

    Tim

  4. 7 hours ago, Thukydides said:

    the two keel holders are too close together

     

    Hi @Thukydides thanks for the positive feed back, I would have to agree on the spacing.

    I will have to do something about the heights of the pedestals to get the model level if I move them wider.

     

    On the wood front, I did find a bit of wildly grained parana pine but it looks a bit too goofey.

    Might even do a painted base.

     

    Tim

     

  5. After remodeling the kitchen over winter now the garden has started up again.

    I did manage to get a stand made from a bit of mahogany I had, not sure if it works?

    It's a lot redder in real life.

    standsideview.jpg.d66508cc866f36f068dc1a03fc15e0a5.jpg

     

    standsternview.thumb.jpg.f2c45b54c53db41259c54ca5852a8ba3.jpgstandcu.jpg.9b8000f906e8eef5f8af53301cad92b0.jpg

     

    pleased with the brass fittings from Cornwall Model Boats, dulled down as they are bit bright otherwise.

    Comments please.

     

    Tim

  6. 1 hour ago, AON said:

    like tensioning a stringed instrument

    I second that it has to sound right, if I was musical I would give a note to aim for :-), it has to to be a 'ting' not a 'thunk'

    Also make sure the blade square to the table in all directions.

    Blade thickness can have an effect too, a thin blade will wander more that a thicker blade.
    On mine with a very narrow jewellers piercing saw blade I can cut along a printed line and get an accurate shape.
    with thicker blades cut as close as you feel comfortable with and sand back to the line.
     

    You probably know this, don't force the material through let the blade do the work.
    I have found that as the blade gets blunt it will wander more.
    When cutting acrylic, put Sellotape along the cut line, it acts as a lubricant.

     

     

    Tim

  7. 5 hours ago, Wintergreen said:

    I tried the x3 but then everything got very distorted

    Thanks for the compliment Hakan @Wintergreen

     

    1 hour ago, Thukydides said:

    I found it really helps with getting things right.

     

    I just checked and mine are X3, that could be part of my problem... I will see if I can get other lenses for this model.

     

    Tim

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