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SiriusVoyager

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Everything posted by SiriusVoyager

  1. Nice work on your first planking. You will definitely want the hull as smooth as possible so that the second layer of planking fits on nice and flat. Using some wood filler and sanding it down again will help with that. The gaps between the hull and the keel are exactly why I say to lay the keel first. You can use the second layer of planking to cover up those gaps. Had the second layer of planking be placed first, that wouldn’t have been possible. Again, a little wood filler in those gaps can provide a bit of structure for the second layer of planking. A small rabbet along the keel, especially on the bow and stern will help hold those second planks in place.
  2. Cutting the Freeing ports and gun ports on the starboard side is a little tricky through the sapele since it is so brittle. In the future I will cut the holes before placing any sort of veneer to avoid breakage like this. Measuring the gun ports and freeing ports on the weather deck seemed to match with the instructions almost exactly, but on the gun deck, I didn't think they looked right. The line is based on the measurements in the instructions. The two drill holes are where I estimated where they should be after doing some measurements of my own. I think the drill holes are right where the bottom of the gun ports should be. All six holes cut, sanded and filed down. There will need to be a little more fine tuning after the planking patch work dries, which I will do when I add the frames to the gun ports. I may make small frames for inboard sides of the gun ports on the weather deck to make sure everything looks nice and square. I would definitely suggest to anyone else building this model to cut the gun ports and freeing ports out prior to placing the second layer of planking. Also carefully drill a couple of pilot holes in each corner of the gun ports to make cutting them out easier. The freeing ports are too close to the deck so I wouldn't recommend drilling there.
  3. I have always loved Arleigh Burk class destroyers and you have definitely done her justice. Great model!
  4. @tmj that is some great info! I will definitely be using this info in the future! I plan finishing the wood with shellac. I’ll definitely be trying a few things on scrap to see what I like. Thanks again!
  5. Thanks. I will keep that in mind. I hadn’t thought that that could make a difference in appearance.
  6. Thanks for the heads up. I had a similar problem with the Palamos now that you mention it. I have some brass tape that should work in a pinch.
  7. Thank you @tmj. I am specifically talking about the really thin strips used as a veneer over the first level of planking. Looking at it more, I think it is the iridescence that doesn’t look quite right to me. Darkening it just a bit with a stain may be enough to cover that iridescence. I’ll look into the veneers on eBay for future models as I have at least one in my stash with those strips.
  8. Second layer planking laid, trimmed and sanded. I am going to try to remove some of the iridescence of the wood to make it look a bit more realistic. Maybe a raw umber stain.
  9. Great job! The ship looks amazing. I’ll be referring back to your build long when I start my own in about 6-9 months.
  10. Welcome to MSW!
  11. Welcome to MSW!
  12. Welcome to MSW
  13. In both Occre and AL kits it is common for outer layer planking to be Sapele. I am sure that there are other kit manufacturers that use it as well, but these are the two I have had experience with. I don’t think the color looks quite right. Does anyone do anything to improve the look of this wood?
  14. I have two of these carts from Ikea. I work at my dining room table and these make it easy to move my tools and equipment to the corner when not being used.
  15. Welcome to MSW. This was my fourth build and it is a pretty good one for a beginner. Getting the Bulwarks on is a beast so be prepared for some frustration there. I was as conservative as I could be with the supplied wooden strips and I had a reasonable number left over, so don't worry too much about that. It looks like you are off to a good start.
  16. I didn’t make a build log for the pram unfortunately and it’s been over 9 months since I would have been at this step. I seem to recall having a similar issue with the planks not quite fitting on the bow. My thinking is this. The planks can’t really be made larger, but the bow transom can be made smaller. I would fine tune the edges of the bow transom to fix the planks. As far as the glue, it should hold. When you use water to bend the wood, do you use hot water? My technique was to lay the planks in a glass baking sheet pour boiling water of them. After a 5-10 minutes I would clamp them across large sauce pan to get a nice permanent bend in them prior to attaching to the rest of the build.
  17. You might get more responses posting a new topic. That being said, what is your experience level? If you are a beginner I wouldn’t start with a complex pricy kit. There are a many unfinished models and former model makers that started with something too difficult.
  18. Thank you for the kind words Chuck. I'm still a beginner and learning as well. I am sure the Constitution is quite the complex build. This kit is the Artesania Latina San Francisco Galleon. It is a relatively simple cross section, which is why I figured it would be good practice for honing technique.
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