Richard Griffith

A mill is very handy for all of the tips above plus many others.   For example, you can mount your work between centers and mill it round or hex or octogonal.  A dividing head is useful here but you can divide the work by mounting various gears.  
 
I seldom use mine for drilling holes unless I need accuracy, such as making wheels.  (The drill press is faster and easier to use for holes.)  
 
Milling slots is the main strength, and indexing those slots is a snap with the mill.  
 
The more you use it, the more you learn and the more useful it becomes.          Duff

Hi Tim, you have lots of options for 200 square feet.  There are many photos of workshops already posted to this forum.  
 
My second suggestion is to get a copy of Antonio Mendez' book "William Frederick's Scale Journey' in which he has very good photos of his workshop and how he crammed many tools and storage ideas into smaller spaces.  (I have a new one for sale on ebay for under $9 - William Frederick's Scale Journey (321834853112) )  
His book is also full of great ideas and techniques for building models. 
 
Anyway, best wishes in setting up a new shop.                      Duff

Fantastic~!
Thank you Dan for posting the build log and for making such a beautiful model ship.
Take care.
 
Duff

Fantastic~!
Thank you Dan for posting the build log and for making such a beautiful model ship.
Take care.
 
Duff

Fantastic~!
Thank you Dan for posting the build log and for making such a beautiful model ship.
Take care.
 
Duff

A mill is very handy for all of the tips above plus many others.   For example, you can mount your work between centers and mill it round or hex or octogonal.  A dividing head is useful here but you can divide the work by mounting various gears.  
 
I seldom use mine for drilling holes unless I need accuracy, such as making wheels.  (The drill press is faster and easier to use for holes.)  
 
Milling slots is the main strength, and indexing those slots is a snap with the mill.  
 
The more you use it, the more you learn and the more useful it becomes.          Duff

A mill is very handy for all of the tips above plus many others.   For example, you can mount your work between centers and mill it round or hex or octogonal.  A dividing head is useful here but you can divide the work by mounting various gears.  
 
I seldom use mine for drilling holes unless I need accuracy, such as making wheels.  (The drill press is faster and easier to use for holes.)  
 
Milling slots is the main strength, and indexing those slots is a snap with the mill.  
 
The more you use it, the more you learn and the more useful it becomes.          Duff

A mill is very handy for all of the tips above plus many others.   For example, you can mount your work between centers and mill it round or hex or octogonal.  A dividing head is useful here but you can divide the work by mounting various gears.  
 
I seldom use mine for drilling holes unless I need accuracy, such as making wheels.  (The drill press is faster and easier to use for holes.)  
 
Milling slots is the main strength, and indexing those slots is a snap with the mill.  
 
The more you use it, the more you learn and the more useful it becomes.          Duff

A mill is very handy for all of the tips above plus many others.   For example, you can mount your work between centers and mill it round or hex or octogonal.  A dividing head is useful here but you can divide the work by mounting various gears.  
 
I seldom use mine for drilling holes unless I need accuracy, such as making wheels.  (The drill press is faster and easier to use for holes.)  
 
Milling slots is the main strength, and indexing those slots is a snap with the mill.  
 
The more you use it, the more you learn and the more useful it becomes.          Duff

A very good question, and all very good responses.  To 'sumarize' and to add my comments:
 
You are the artist, you decide the level of detail, the paint, the overall effect.
 
You decide if you are having fun.  When you make the ship for yourself - family - friends, then the process of making the ship is very important.  As Henry said, enjoy the ride,
 
You decide if you will enter the ship in a judeged contest.  Now the ride is still important but the level of artistry,attention to detail, scale fidelity, fit and finish, and overall effect went much higher.  It is still your decision.
 
Above all, have fun - enjoy the ride~!                                                Duff

HI Mike, good comments above.  I use a Delta contractor saw which runs a 10" blade for all my rough work.  By rough I mean cutting frame stock from 3/4" and thicker stock.  Most of my framing stock is 3/16" or 1/4" thick.  You could just buy sheet stock that is already sized to these thicknesses.  
 
When I need to cut thin stock, either from thin sheet stock from suppliers, or from thin stock that I cut, then I switch the blade to an 8" veneer blade or an 8" hollow ground combination blade.  I also use a no clearance blade insert so the small parts stay on top of the machine.  I also use sleds of various combinations (see other posts in this forum}.    
 
If your budget only allows for one machine, then go with a full sized machine.  You could just buy thin stock, and then cut with a Proxxon or similar.  These smaller saws are ideal for the many small items we make for our models. 
 
I did make a small TS which runs a 3" blade so I can saw strips to .025.  I cannot use this small saw for any wood thicker than 1/8" so having both is ideal for my needs,  BTW, my budget does not allow me to buy the Byrnes saw which is why I made my own. 
 
Good luck with your decision.  Hope this helps.               Duff in Middletown, CT

HI Mike, good comments above.  I use a Delta contractor saw which runs a 10" blade for all my rough work.  By rough I mean cutting frame stock from 3/4" and thicker stock.  Most of my framing stock is 3/16" or 1/4" thick.  You could just buy sheet stock that is already sized to these thicknesses.  
 
When I need to cut thin stock, either from thin sheet stock from suppliers, or from thin stock that I cut, then I switch the blade to an 8" veneer blade or an 8" hollow ground combination blade.  I also use a no clearance blade insert so the small parts stay on top of the machine.  I also use sleds of various combinations (see other posts in this forum}.    
 
If your budget only allows for one machine, then go with a full sized machine.  You could just buy thin stock, and then cut with a Proxxon or similar.  These smaller saws are ideal for the many small items we make for our models. 
 
I did make a small TS which runs a 3" blade so I can saw strips to .025.  I cannot use this small saw for any wood thicker than 1/8" so having both is ideal for my needs,  BTW, my budget does not allow me to buy the Byrnes saw which is why I made my own. 
 
Good luck with your decision.  Hope this helps.               Duff in Middletown, CT

Titebond is my go-to wood glue.  For hard woods, such as box, cherry, costella, and similar, one should always use a mechanical join, such as a trunnel of wood or brass because even great glue joints have a tendency to fail apart after many years.  If one is not concerned with longevity, then ignore the trunnel.   You may be giving a repair job to someone in the future.  
 
CA glues are also very useful as they bond dissimilar materials, are fast setting and easy to apply.  One should have a fan to move fresh air across the work area.  I know as they are an irritant to me.  Many experts advise against using these on rigging due to the exothermic reactions, failure of the lines, and oxidation of the glue.  I think the jury is still out on this one as others have had no joint failures after 10 to 20 years.  Is the jury still deliberating?  
 
Elmers Glue All is also a favorite as it is almost as strong as Titebond, and dries clear.  Conservationists avoid this because the joints are too strong and makes future repairs very difficult.  Again, you decide what's best for you.  If, however, your are doing work for a museum, then you must follow their requirements on glue and all other materials.  If the model is for a grandchild or other family and friends, then use what you are comfortable. 
 
Epoxy glues are very useful for bonding metal to metal or to wood, plastic, glass.  
 
Solder is not a glue but it is the best method for bonding metal to metal.  Both soft and hard soldering have important roles in our modeling.  
 
For securing knots, the better materials (other than CA) include matt varnish, dull coat and similar, Dave's Flexament (used in making flies for fishing), and diluted white glue.  There must be others, such as glues for jig saw puzzles and fabric glues but I prefer the matt varnishes and Dave's.  BTW, Dave's has a strong odor, contains toxic solvents and must be used carefully.  Again, I prefer the varnish,  I think hide and fish glues could be used here, too. 
 
Hide glue is a very good glue, has been around since man and woman first figured out how to join wood and attach fletches to arrows. It is available from Amazon, Ebay and woodworking stores.  One no longer has to heat it.  Fish glue is one glue I intend to try out.  
 
Urethane glues have some very limited use for our work, never for the details or fine fittings.  Glues and cements for plastics would take another page.  
 
So, there are hundreds of glues, which makes me think we need to consult a chemical engineer but instead Wikipedia is very useful as is this forum.  I have about 30 different glues in my shop and have had to rely on others before me to understand them.  
 
I hope my ramblings will help you in your efforts to improve your model ships.
 
Keep building and above all, have fun.                       Duff in Middletown, CT

Titebond is my go-to wood glue.  For hard woods, such as box, cherry, costella, and similar, one should always use a mechanical join, such as a trunnel of wood or brass because even great glue joints have a tendency to fail apart after many years.  If one is not concerned with longevity, then ignore the trunnel.   You may be giving a repair job to someone in the future.  
 
CA glues are also very useful as they bond dissimilar materials, are fast setting and easy to apply.  One should have a fan to move fresh air across the work area.  I know as they are an irritant to me.  Many experts advise against using these on rigging due to the exothermic reactions, failure of the lines, and oxidation of the glue.  I think the jury is still out on this one as others have had no joint failures after 10 to 20 years.  Is the jury still deliberating?  
 
Elmers Glue All is also a favorite as it is almost as strong as Titebond, and dries clear.  Conservationists avoid this because the joints are too strong and makes future repairs very difficult.  Again, you decide what's best for you.  If, however, your are doing work for a museum, then you must follow their requirements on glue and all other materials.  If the model is for a grandchild or other family and friends, then use what you are comfortable. 
 
Epoxy glues are very useful for bonding metal to metal or to wood, plastic, glass.  
 
Solder is not a glue but it is the best method for bonding metal to metal.  Both soft and hard soldering have important roles in our modeling.  
 
For securing knots, the better materials (other than CA) include matt varnish, dull coat and similar, Dave's Flexament (used in making flies for fishing), and diluted white glue.  There must be others, such as glues for jig saw puzzles and fabric glues but I prefer the matt varnishes and Dave's.  BTW, Dave's has a strong odor, contains toxic solvents and must be used carefully.  Again, I prefer the varnish,  I think hide and fish glues could be used here, too. 
 
Hide glue is a very good glue, has been around since man and woman first figured out how to join wood and attach fletches to arrows. It is available from Amazon, Ebay and woodworking stores.  One no longer has to heat it.  Fish glue is one glue I intend to try out.  
 
Urethane glues have some very limited use for our work, never for the details or fine fittings.  Glues and cements for plastics would take another page.  
 
So, there are hundreds of glues, which makes me think we need to consult a chemical engineer but instead Wikipedia is very useful as is this forum.  I have about 30 different glues in my shop and have had to rely on others before me to understand them.  
 
I hope my ramblings will help you in your efforts to improve your model ships.
 
Keep building and above all, have fun.                       Duff in Middletown, CT

Bluejacket Shipcrafters ran out of silkspan recently but they substituted model span which to me is the same material.  I used it to added furled sails to Le Superbe.  I am a very happy customer of BJ, not an employee.  
 
Duff

Bluejacket Shipcrafters ran out of silkspan recently but they substituted model span which to me is the same material.  I used it to added furled sails to Le Superbe.  I am a very happy customer of BJ, not an employee.  
 
Duff

Bluejacket Shipcrafters ran out of silkspan recently but they substituted model span which to me is the same material.  I used it to added furled sails to Le Superbe.  I am a very happy customer of BJ, not an employee.  
 
Duff

Hi Richard, definitely grab this stuff and try it.  You have to air dry it first.  Label the ends with 'Peach' and the date it was cut. Get some parafin and dip the ends of the logs, then put the logs in a dry warm place for a couple of years.  Generally figure about one year per inch.  (One log was too big so I cut in in half lengthwise then dipped the ends.)  I did this for my dogwood and am very happy with the results.   
 
I have NOT used peach but do use pear, apple and cherry, all very good woods for building model ships, toys and anything else that needs a hard wood for strength and durability.    
 
I also use flowering dogwood, Costella, box wood, basswood, soft maple, redheart, yellowheart, pauduk, clear pine and poplar.  I seldom use open p;ore woods because those pores make the model lumber look like the toredo got into them. 
 
Keep building and above all, have fun.                        Duff in Middletown, CT

A very good question, and all very good responses.  To 'sumarize' and to add my comments:
 
You are the artist, you decide the level of detail, the paint, the overall effect.
 
You decide if you are having fun.  When you make the ship for yourself - family - friends, then the process of making the ship is very important.  As Henry said, enjoy the ride,
 
You decide if you will enter the ship in a judeged contest.  Now the ride is still important but the level of artistry,attention to detail, scale fidelity, fit and finish, and overall effect went much higher.  It is still your decision.
 
Above all, have fun - enjoy the ride~!                                                Duff

Hi Richard, definitely grab this stuff and try it.  You have to air dry it first.  Label the ends with 'Peach' and the date it was cut. Get some parafin and dip the ends of the logs, then put the logs in a dry warm place for a couple of years.  Generally figure about one year per inch.  (One log was too big so I cut in in half lengthwise then dipped the ends.)  I did this for my dogwood and am very happy with the results.   
 
I have NOT used peach but do use pear, apple and cherry, all very good woods for building model ships, toys and anything else that needs a hard wood for strength and durability.    
 
I also use flowering dogwood, Costella, box wood, basswood, soft maple, redheart, yellowheart, pauduk, clear pine and poplar.  I seldom use open p;ore woods because those pores make the model lumber look like the toredo got into them. 
 
Keep building and above all, have fun.                        Duff in Middletown, CT

Hi Bindy, lengths were determined by supplies.  Gun decks were oak, other decks of fir or pine.  
According to Gerald Delacroix (Le Gros-Ventre 1770), the lengths were about 37 or 38' long.  I checked Jean Boudriot's books and he seems to show  similar lengths,  (I have La Jacinthe 1825 and The 74 Gun Ship 1770.)
 
I then checked Dr. McArdle's book HMS Sussex 1693 and his lengths agree with the above, even though Sussex is English and 100 years older, it does give an indication of what the shipwrights used. 
 
Mark suggests 60' but suspects that may be too long; I think so too.  If the shipwrights had some 60 footers, they would have used them but generally, if you keep to a max lenght of about 34 to 36 feet, your build will look right.  
 
Keep building and above all, have fun ~!                               Duff

Hi Bindy, lengths were determined by supplies.  Gun decks were oak, other decks of fir or pine.  
According to Gerald Delacroix (Le Gros-Ventre 1770), the lengths were about 37 or 38' long.  I checked Jean Boudriot's books and he seems to show  similar lengths,  (I have La Jacinthe 1825 and The 74 Gun Ship 1770.)
 
I then checked Dr. McArdle's book HMS Sussex 1693 and his lengths agree with the above, even though Sussex is English and 100 years older, it does give an indication of what the shipwrights used. 
 
Mark suggests 60' but suspects that may be too long; I think so too.  If the shipwrights had some 60 footers, they would have used them but generally, if you keep to a max lenght of about 34 to 36 feet, your build will look right.  
 
Keep building and above all, have fun ~!                               Duff

Hi Bindy, lengths were determined by supplies.  Gun decks were oak, other decks of fir or pine.  
According to Gerald Delacroix (Le Gros-Ventre 1770), the lengths were about 37 or 38' long.  I checked Jean Boudriot's books and he seems to show  similar lengths,  (I have La Jacinthe 1825 and The 74 Gun Ship 1770.)
 
I then checked Dr. McArdle's book HMS Sussex 1693 and his lengths agree with the above, even though Sussex is English and 100 years older, it does give an indication of what the shipwrights used. 
 
Mark suggests 60' but suspects that may be too long; I think so too.  If the shipwrights had some 60 footers, they would have used them but generally, if you keep to a max lenght of about 34 to 36 feet, your build will look right.  
 
Keep building and above all, have fun ~!                               Duff

Hi Bindy, lengths were determined by supplies.  Gun decks were oak, other decks of fir or pine.  
According to Gerald Delacroix (Le Gros-Ventre 1770), the lengths were about 37 or 38' long.  I checked Jean Boudriot's books and he seems to show  similar lengths,  (I have La Jacinthe 1825 and The 74 Gun Ship 1770.)
 
I then checked Dr. McArdle's book HMS Sussex 1693 and his lengths agree with the above, even though Sussex is English and 100 years older, it does give an indication of what the shipwrights used. 
 
Mark suggests 60' but suspects that may be too long; I think so too.  If the shipwrights had some 60 footers, they would have used them but generally, if you keep to a max lenght of about 34 to 36 feet, your build will look right.  
 
Keep building and above all, have fun ~!                               Duff

A very good question, and all very good responses.  To 'sumarize' and to add my comments:
 
You are the artist, you decide the level of detail, the paint, the overall effect.
 
You decide if you are having fun.  When you make the ship for yourself - family - friends, then the process of making the ship is very important.  As Henry said, enjoy the ride,
 
You decide if you will enter the ship in a judeged contest.  Now the ride is still important but the level of artistry,attention to detail, scale fidelity, fit and finish, and overall effect went much higher.  It is still your decision.
 
Above all, have fun - enjoy the ride~!                                                Duff