Richard Griffith

Hi Rob, yellowheart is a generic name which generally refers to euxylophora parensis-the scientific name.  This species grows in Brazil and is also known as pau amarello.  The problem with generic names is that more than one specie can have the same name. 
 
Anyway, this yellowheart is easy to work, moderately hard, close grain, pore difuse and has a nice yellow color.  I have used it for small parts such as for capstans.  It machines well although I had some chip out at the corners so I rate it somewhat brittle.  Perhaps my supply was over cooked in the kiln. 
 
So, try it, you might like it.
 
Duff

HMS Vulture Build Log Resurrection
 
 
Following the Crash of  MSW in February 2013 I’ve attempted to re-create as much of my former Build log as I can. The  following is a very truncated version of the original. It doesn’t contain any of the comments posted by others, as they were unrecoverable. My apologies for that.
 
I've also left out the MISTAKES I made during the construction in the "Resurrection" section. Some of them can be found in this Topic : How I Fix Boo-Boos and Oopsies
 
The original Build Log was started on June 11 2011. Actual work on the model commenced on Wednesday August 17 2011.
The Build Log was terminated on February 14 2013 (the day the Server crashed), and Re-building it started the day MSW came back on-line.
 
 
_____________________________________________________________________
Following is an Index to "Points of Interest". you can Click on the Links to jump straight to the First Post that starts a particular Section.
 
Links to other Sites in the following pages, e.g. Tool Suppliers, look like this : Sherline . You can jump straight to their Webpage by Clicking on them. Note : I have no affiliation with any of the Suppliers I have posted Links to - just a happy customer.
 
To return to the Index Click on the "HMS Vulture" Link in the Signature in one of my Posts, or use the "Back" Arrow of your Browser. There are no Signatures under my posts in the Reconstruction phase to save page room.
 
The Index will be updated as work progresses.
 
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
 
 
Index to Points of Interest
 
Page 1
HMS Vulture - some History of the ship + Links to Build Logs of other Swan Class Ships on MSW
Research and Materials + Links to Suppliers
How the Model will be built
Tools
Preparations
Clamps and Planking Pins
 
Laying the Keel
Lower Apron
Stem and Fore Deadwood
Aft Deadwood
Sternpost
Rising Wood
Cutting Rabbets and Fitting the Mounting Nuts
Cutting, Shaping and Fitting Transoms
Cutting the Bowsprit Seat
Fashion Pieces
Bollard Timbers
Timberheads and Bowsprit Chock
Forward Cant Frames and Hawse Timbers
Forward Cant Frames
Aft Cant Frames
Side Counter Timbers and Timbers on the Side Counter
Aft Cant Fairing
Knee of the Head Construction
Aft Square Frames
Frame Bend
Shifted Toptimber
Fixed Blocks
 
Page 2
Frames all Fitted
Toptimber Aligning and External Fairing
Treenailing Frames
Keelson
Pump Recesses
Stemson
Fillings
Harpins
Ribbands
Limber Strakes
Floorhead Thickstuff and Treenails
Mast Steps
Aft Crutch and Lower Breasthook
Limber Boards
Lower Well and Shot Locker
Chain Pump Inlets
Pump Tubes
Chain Pump Sprocket
Lower Deck Clamps
Footwaling
Internal Treenailing
Aft Platform
Aft Platform Carlings and Ledges
Aft Platform Bulkheads and Spirit Room Hatch
Lower Deck Beams
Fore Platform and Bulkheads
Lower Deck Hook
Block Room and Tar Room Bulkheads
Magazine Bulkheads and Mizzen Boxing
Lightroom
 
Page 3
Finishing the Magazine
Aft Platform Rooms
Upper Deck Clamps and Ceiling
Lower Deck Beam Carling Mortices
Lodging and Hanging Knees
Pillars in the Hold
Opposed Knees, Beam Arms and Iron Knees
Lower Deck Beams, Carlings and Ledges
Chain Pump Inlets and Tubes Fitted
Sleepers
Lower Deck Waterways and Spirketting
Riding Bitts - stage 1
Upper Deck Beams
Lower Deck Planking
Hooked Planks
Lower Deck Treenailing
Hatch Coamings and Companions
Lower Deck Breasthook
Forward Room Bulkheads
Upper Deck Pillars and Beam Set
Forward Rooms Bulkheads and Scuttles
Forward Bulkheads Finishing
Riding Bitts and Sail Room
Wing Transom Knees
Bread Room Bulkhead and Pillars
Aft Bulkheads
Pantry
Upper Well
Upper Deck Framing Finished
Upper Deck Ledges
 
Page 4
Upper Deck Waterways
Mast Wedges
Main Mast Partners
Aft Beam Arms, Carlings and Ledges
Mizzen and Foremast Partners
Main Topsail Sheet Bitts part 1
Upper Deck Hatch Coamings
Capstan Step
Upper Deck Planking
Top and Butt (Anchor Stock) Deck Planking
Upper Deck Treenailng
Counter Timbers
String in the Waist
Quarterdeck Clamp and Transom
Ebony Wales and "Dummy" Treenails
"Black" Strake
Topside Planking
Port Stops and Sweep Ports
Spirketting,Quckwork and Inside Sweep Ports Trimming
Treenailing Spirketting and Quickwork
Upper Deck Companions
Helm Port
Lower Counter Planking
Garboard Strake
Lower Hull Planking
Top and Butt Planking
Tricky Plank
Hull Planking Continues
Hull Planking Finished
Starboard Sheer Strake
 
Page 5
Scuppers
Main Topsail Sheet Bitts
Main Jeer Bitts
Forecastle Deck Beams
Hawse Holes Finishing
Fore Topsail Sheet Bitts
Bucklers
Upper Deck Breasthook
Bowsprit Partner, Hanging and Lodging Knees
Manger
Riding Bitts
Galley Stove 1
Galley Stove 2
 
END OF BUILD LOG RECONSTRUCTION
 
Chain Pump Cisterns
Pump Chain
Pump Brakes
Rhodings
Forward Stanchions, Cistern Hood and Pump Dale
Capstans
 
Rudder
    Main Piece
    Bearding
    Pintles
    Spectacle Plate
    Bands
    Gudgeons
    Rudder Shipped
    Rudder Coat
 
Forward Athwartships Aft Cabin Bulkhead
Bulkhead Doors
Aft Athwartships Aft Cabin Bulkhead
Longitudinal Aft Cabin Bulkhead
Upper Counter Planking
Forecastle Bulkhead
Forecastle Bulkhead Lights
Making Stern Light Frames
Stern Lights Completing
Rudder Head Trunk
Great Cabin Lockers
Completing Great Cabin
Rudder Head Partners
Transom Iron Knees
 
Guns
    Brackets
    Barrels
    Capsquares
    Drilling the Bolt Holes
    Axletrees
    Carriage Assembly Jig
    Trucks
    Bed
    Quoins
    Hardware
    Breech Rigging
    Side Tackles
  
Forecastle and Quarterdeck Carlings
Forecastle Knees
Catheads
Catheads Fitted
Cathead Caps
Steam Grating Coamings
Steam Grating
Galley Cowl
Cowl Baffle
Breast Beams
Forecastle Half-Door and Light
Quarterdeck Hanging Knees
Cast Knee
Quarterdeck Lodging Knees
Beam Bracket
Quarterdeck Hatch Coamings
Capstan Step
Forecastle and Quarterdeck Waterways
Forecastle and Quarterdeck Planking
Forecastle and Quarterdeck Treenailing
Bulwark Spirketting
Gun Rigging Re-do
Gangboard Knees
Planksheers in the Waist
Hances
Making Timberheads
Timberhead Jig
Forecastle Planksheers
Forecastle Timberheads
Quarterdeck Timberheads
Gangways and Gangboards
Entry Steps to the Waist
Gallows Crosspiece
Preparing Tuck Molding and Waist Rails
 
Quarter Badge
   Quarter Badge Stools and Munions
   Upper Finishing
   Lower Finishing
   Carving the Finishing and Glazing Lights
   Pilasters
   Quarter Badge Crown
 
Chesstrees
Channels
Sheer Rails
Standards
Drift Rails
Main Studding Sail Boom Irons
Fenders
Entry Steps
Swivel Gun Mounts
Fore Jeer Bitts
Belfry
Forecastle Railing and Spar Rack
Companion Top
Ship's Wheel
Quarterdeck Ladderway
Ladderway Railings
Quarterdeck Breastwork
Fixed Gangway Newel Posts and Railings
Taffarel
Taffarel Capping Rail
Ensign Staff Block and Clamp
Quarter Pieces
Roughtree Rail
Brake Pumps Fitted
Steering Rigging
 
 
 
This INDEX has grown too large, so I will start a 2nd one. It can be accessed by clicking the link below.
 
Link to Index Part 2

Throwing in a few more comments:  Lever, Steel, Harland are all excellent authors of rigging and all have valuable information.  Other authors include Lavery, Hahn, Napier, Ronnberg, Marquardt, Underhill, Longridge, Chapelle, White, Goodwin, Biddlecombe, McKay and others.  Petersson is OK but be careful as he made a number of errors. 
 
The Niagra is a very different ship from the Connie meaning that you cannot find a single book for both types.  You might find one for each ship but more likely you need to verify the instructions in the kit by consulting the authors noted above.  Rigging also changed on each ship so you will need to pick a time frame and then do some research. 
 
Personally, I enjoy the research and associated discovery, plus this gives me a more representative model (as soon as I finish one and get to another...)
 
Above all, enjoy the process and the discovery!
 
Duff

I agree wholeheartedly with Bryan Sonofagun, Seawatch is doing a yeoman's job! 
I bought about a dozen books and plan to buy a couple more as soon as my creditors get happier.
(l am just a happy customer, no other connection with Seawatch.)
 
Duffer

Very nice storage systems~! 
 
It boils down to how you want your work space to work.  As long as you can find the tools, and protect them, then any system will work for you.  For me, my shop evolves, changes as my focus and circumstances change.  When I change my shop, though, I tend to 'lose' tools until I learn the new location.....
 
Duff

Thanks all for dropping in again .
 
John, Mark and Joe - the "Sew Stable" Fabric Stabilizer I used seems to have done the trick nicely. It's set like PVA, but doesn't look like it's been glued down. Just the slightest amount of darkening of the thread, but after painting the whole line it's not at all noticeable .
 
Spyglass - I'd already "notched" the blocks (I do that with all of them). These ones are only 2.7mm, so it probably doesn't show as much as larger ones do. I gave the lines a bit more of a soak after the main part of the coil had dried and worked the lines a little bit more realistically. They look better to the naked eye than the pics may show.
 
Bill - I'm glad you like the "color scheme" . I've used seven types of timber so far - Swiss Pear (a light and a dark shade), Castello Boxwood, English Boxwood, Ebony, Holly and Australian Cherry Ballart. The only paint used on the model is some Lead Grey for the Magazine floor and the Scuppers and Matt Black for the Galley Stove. The only other paint that will be used is Matt Black or Umber for the Seizings on the Standing Rigging, and a mixture I've made up that matches the Running Rigging lines for their seizings - the tiny fishing line I use for them only comes in white.
 
  Danny

Very nice work Dan~! 
Your work is setting a gold standard for me.
 
Duff

Very nice work Dan~! 
Your work is setting a gold standard for me.
 
Duff

Hi Richard T, box and boxwood are the same (it is easier to say and write 'box').
 
Ebony (diospyos) makes a mess as others have said.  Diospyros is a genus of about 450–500 speicies of deciduous and ever green trees, shrubs and small bushes.  This means there are MANY ebonies. 
 
Caution: many of the ebonies are toxic.  The dust can cause acute dermatitis, skin inflamation, conjunctivitis and sneezing; possible skin sensitizer (source-"Wood" by Terry Porter ISBN 978-1-60085-465-1). 
 
Although I have used an ebony for a couple of small parts, I personally do not favor this wood due to its toxiticy.  People who do must use dust collection systems, and if not collected efficiently must use respirators. 
 
Duff

Hi Richard T, box and boxwood are the same (it is easier to say and write 'box').
 
Ebony (diospyos) makes a mess as others have said.  Diospyros is a genus of about 450–500 speicies of deciduous and ever green trees, shrubs and small bushes.  This means there are MANY ebonies. 
 
Caution: many of the ebonies are toxic.  The dust can cause acute dermatitis, skin inflamation, conjunctivitis and sneezing; possible skin sensitizer (source-"Wood" by Terry Porter ISBN 978-1-60085-465-1). 
 
Although I have used an ebony for a couple of small parts, I personally do not favor this wood due to its toxiticy.  People who do must use dust collection systems, and if not collected efficiently must use respirators. 
 
Duff

Hi Slog, the seizings around the anchor rings are generally known as snake seizings.  Two should be next to the anchor shaft and two at the sides of the ring so as not to interfere with the cable.  I reommend smaller thread for these seizings. 
 
Thus the two seizings next to the shaft will hide the start and finish of the puddening.  Cool, eh?  And if your worl looks good to you with opti visors, it will look great to those without such assistance. 
 
Persevere, and have fun~!  You are doing nice work.
 
Duff

Prior posts are correct about NOT using CA glue.  There are also reports that CA stays anhydrous over a long period which means it outgases acidic fumes.  These will attack surrounding materials, especially in a closed environment eg encased models.  However, CA is a very effective glue for many applications, and I use it.  I even used it to attach ratlines on a recent build before i became aware of the dangers.  Live and learn.
 
Duffer

Bill, Wayne and others have correctly stated that this subject is so vast that no single book can cover the range. 
 
My library is moderately large at about 85 volunes and stll growing, so I still rely on this forum and others to expand my knowledge and to get answers to technical questions.  You may have to focus on certain areas, to study that area and then to move to another area.  For example, there are several very good books on English constrution practices.  Pay attention to the era as the building practices changed over the decades.  If you need the same info on French or Dutch or Swedish practices, you will need to look at other sources. Same for rigging. 
 
As your knowledge grows, so will your questions.  This hobby encompasses a huge range of data, so huge that no one person can be an expert in all areas.  But that is the challenge and the fun of it.
 
Duff

Great adice.  Some of my bookls are covered, and I plan to cover more. 
Another cover is called Brodart, which is a speific brand.  They also sell the rolls.
 
Duff

Bill, Wayne and others have correctly stated that this subject is so vast that no single book can cover the range. 
 
My library is moderately large at about 85 volunes and stll growing, so I still rely on this forum and others to expand my knowledge and to get answers to technical questions.  You may have to focus on certain areas, to study that area and then to move to another area.  For example, there are several very good books on English constrution practices.  Pay attention to the era as the building practices changed over the decades.  If you need the same info on French or Dutch or Swedish practices, you will need to look at other sources. Same for rigging. 
 
As your knowledge grows, so will your questions.  This hobby encompasses a huge range of data, so huge that no one person can be an expert in all areas.  But that is the challenge and the fun of it.
 
Duff

Bill, Wayne and others have correctly stated that this subject is so vast that no single book can cover the range. 
 
My library is moderately large at about 85 volunes and stll growing, so I still rely on this forum and others to expand my knowledge and to get answers to technical questions.  You may have to focus on certain areas, to study that area and then to move to another area.  For example, there are several very good books on English constrution practices.  Pay attention to the era as the building practices changed over the decades.  If you need the same info on French or Dutch or Swedish practices, you will need to look at other sources. Same for rigging. 
 
As your knowledge grows, so will your questions.  This hobby encompasses a huge range of data, so huge that no one person can be an expert in all areas.  But that is the challenge and the fun of it.
 
Duff

Hi Tony and other members, here are 3 photos (I hope) of my sled device.  You can modify it to suit  your saw and needs.  For example, the screw device can be made more simple. 
 
Duff

Hi Tony and other members, here are 3 photos (I hope) of my sled device.  You can modify it to suit  your saw and needs.  For example, the screw device can be made more simple. 
 
Duff

Since this thread started many months ago, my comments may be too late regarding the purchasing decision.  However............
 
I did buy the Micro Mark heavy duty mill a year ago and many of the accessories.  This machine is a delight to use and IMO is worth the price.  It is accurate, has decent power, decent finish where it counts and good features. 
 
The key factors in my decision to buy it include:
   price value verses features (the options I bought cost more than the machine)
   a reputable distributor
  R8 spindle (I think there are more options for accessories)
  the rotary table which can be mounted horizontal and veritcal
  variable speed dial
  heavy duty tilting column
 
As others have stated, you need to consider why you need a relatively expensie machine.  For me. I need to be able to mill metal for making other machines, jigs and fictures, highly accurate parts for wooden ships, and repetitive production.  For example, I just made the inside apron for the Swan class sloop, where the forward cant frames sit, which required precise slots and a mirror cut on the starboard side.  Plus I needed a steel quick change tool post for my 10' engine lathe.  This mill handled both just fine.
 
As with all machine tools, there will always be jobs that go beyond their capacity, even for Bridgeports.  So, one needs to consider needs verses budget, that is, what you expect to do with the machine.  Hope this helps you and others a bit.
 
Duffer

Gutten Tag Heinz, ihre Werk ist ausgezeichnet!  (translated-your work is excellent). 
When I need decent sails made with textiles, I plan to try your wire covered with thread idea.
 
Thank you for posting your work.
 
Duffer

Yup, as David and Ulises commented, clove hitches are the knots to use.  BUT, if your scale is small, then you could simply push a needle thru the shrouds, and just use an overhand knot on the outside shrouds.  Apply a drop of diluted white glue; do not use CA.  By small, I mean the ratlines look good with the needle method.
 
If it gets too boring, work on the yards, or the anchors, or the launch, then come back another day.
 
Duffer

Another way to cut thin strips on a 10" table saw is to make a sled and add an adusting screw so you don't sandwich the thin strips between the blade and the fence.  (I'll try to upload a pix or two.)  In words - the sled is just a piece of half inch plywood with 1 by 2 inch pine pieces glued vertical to the front and rear - these hold the plywood together when you run the sled thru the blade.   The shape of this sled is a shallow U. 
 
Glued to the underside are 2 hardwood runners that fit in the 2 mitre gauge slots.  These runners keep the sled from moving side to side or racking, thereby allowing precise and repeditive cuts.  The screw device fits inside on the rear pine piece and is adjustable for micro changes in cuting. 
 
Prepare your planking stock to the width and length you need, then mount the sled to cut the thickness.  I use a thin veneer blade (hollow ground and many teeth).  You could also use a new plywood blade which should have the sides of the teeth honed.  You will either get what you need, or close and then final thicknessing with the sander. 
 
Now to figure out uploading photos......
Duffer

While these MSDS sheets are very technical and unintelligable to the non chemists, including me, they do provide key safety infomation.  As others have pointed out, treat all chemicals with respect and always avoid contact with your skin and inhallation. 
 
Whenever I use CA a lot, I turn on a small fan to blow the fumes away from my face.  All spraying in the shop is in a spray booth whose exit hose goes out the window.  Latex and nitrile gloves are used as needed.  Acid proof gloves are used whenever I use acids or strong lyes.  Be careful of what you wear on your feet should you spill acids.  I wear a face shield when needed, even though I wear corrective glasses.  These are some of the easy safety measues and they do not require time to use. 
 
Our eyes are extemely important, and so is our health.  Without these, most of us could not make model ships.       Duffer

Hi Larry, prior posts are good, that is, maple is a great wood for frames and decks, Portia used it, I have used it (for frames) as have others.  Either hard or soft maple works well.  Since the Acer genus contains about 150 species, the type of maple you get will have wide variations in colors. In Europe, maple is known as sycamore which is very different from American sycamore.  Maples grow in the Nothern hemishere so some form of maple is available to most of us.
 
Maple is easy to work but requires sharp tools.  I am not aware of any maples picking up silica during growth so your edge tools should not suffer.  (Teaks and rosewoods usually have silica but these woods are not recommended for model work.)   Maple glues OK but is usually difficult to stain; it will take paint.
 
Don't use figured maple and do not use spalted.  Spalted is decayed and highly figured.  Maple requires predrilling, can be bent but tends to be brittle.  I use other woods for hull planking, woods with better bending properties (perhaps I should try some planking with maple).  Decking with maple looks great, as does holly.  Holly is very expensive lately though. 
 
Keep us posted on your progress. 
 
Duffer

Hi Kimberly, prior suggestions on paint are all good.  Be sure to wash off all release oils before painting (warm water and a little dish soap). 
Should you have to remove dryed paint, dip the item into power steering fluid until the paint falls off.  Really.  The fluid does not harm the plastic but eats the paint. 
As for straight edges when brushing or spraying, Tamyia sells a high quality masking tape. Blue painters tape should work too but may not sit down tight over raised detail as well. 
No dumb models.
Have fun.
Duffer