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Best glue for rigging: CA & GS-Hypo


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I've seen a number of builders using "GS-Hypo" cement when it comes to some aspects of rigging but I must confess to being clueless on the benefits of this type of glue.  I've also see concern that CA glue can damage hemp based line, but how does this manifest?  Is it really just down to user preference or are there real no-no's with either glues?

 

Appreciate any practical experience people would care to share.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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You may consider this from Amazon

 

Neutral pH Liquid Adhesive
 

Materials for mounting repairing cleaning and preserving.-All products are acid-free with a neutral PH.-For professional framing hobby or office use.-Easy to use polyvinyl acetate (PVA) formula is fast setting and re-moistenable with water.-No more drips, spills, or sticky messes to clean up.-Ideal for prints photos postcards or any paper item.-Adhesive was formulated specifically for preservation materials and will not become brittle with age

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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CA IMO is the worst you can use in your rigging, points in case:

1- it will run through the line making it stiff.

2- Will leave a glossy/shiny spot

3- will make your line prone to break.

 

I use a drop of diluted white glue or Testors Flat Clear Acryl. Either makes a fine job of keeping my knots tied without all the problems of CA.

Just my 2 cents.

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

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I've had much success with the GS Hypo cement. It soaks in well into the rigging line, doesn't leave shiny spots, dries rubbery so it won't cause the strands to become brittle. It overcoats well with acrylic matte medium (Which I use to seal my rigging lines and eliminate fuzzies), has a needle point applicator, so it can be applied in small amounts very accurately. It dries fairly fast. And although the fumes are not the friendliest, it's not nearly as allergenic as CA (a small fan will help keep your workspace adequately ventilated).

Quando Omni Flunkus, Moritati


Current Build:

USF Confederacy

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Prior posts are correct about NOT using CA glue.  There are also reports that CA stays anhydrous over a long period which means it outgases acidic fumes.  These will attack surrounding materials, especially in a closed environment eg encased models.  However, CA is a very effective glue for many applications, and I use it.  I even used it to attach ratlines on a recent build before i became aware of the dangers.  Live and learn.

 

Duffer

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I have actually had more problems with using a diluted PVA on my rigging for all 3 of my Cadlercraft kits than CA. I am not sure why but I suspect the the rigging supplied in these kits is so tight the water based PVA will not penetrate the fibres its been a real pain on ratlines as they just open up continually as you work up the mast even a few days after application. I now tend to use a bit of both depending on the location of the rigging. Waterbased PVA tends to leave a slight white sheen to the black threads in the Kits even in a well diluted form less than 50/50.

 

I dont think Caldercraft would recommend CA in their instructions if it wasnt safe on a model - I still think theres a lot of hype in the "do not use" statements, these are very knowledgeable and respected kit manufacturers.

 

Norman

Norman

 

 

Current build Trumpeter Arizona 1:200 with White Ensign PE and a Nautilus Wooden Deck.

Built Caldercraft Convulsion, HM Brig Badger and HMS Snake.

Awaiting - Zvelda HMS Dreadnought planning to get the Pontos Deck and PE Upgrades, Panart 1:23 Gun deck model and couple of the cannon kits Manatu - French siege mortar, and American coastal cannon.

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...its been a real pain on ratlines as they just open up continually as you work up the mast even a few days after application.

 

Norman

For your ratlines, may I suggest you go to a music store and buy a cake of rosin. It's the stuff violinists use to rub their bows with so the hairs get a "grip" on the strings to produce sound. Pass your ratline thread over it 2 or 3 times and your knots will never open up. Hope this helps.

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

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Strange as it may seem I dont have that luxury of having a music store nearby well in not in my neck of the woods in darkest Essex but thanks for the tip, as I said I use CA the smallest of drops transfered from a cocktail stick.

Norman

 

 

Current build Trumpeter Arizona 1:200 with White Ensign PE and a Nautilus Wooden Deck.

Built Caldercraft Convulsion, HM Brig Badger and HMS Snake.

Awaiting - Zvelda HMS Dreadnought planning to get the Pontos Deck and PE Upgrades, Panart 1:23 Gun deck model and couple of the cannon kits Manatu - French siege mortar, and American coastal cannon.

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When thinning white glue with water add a eyedrop of dish soap or water softener.  This act a a release agent and helps the lines absorb the glue.

David B

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With reference to David B's comment on adding softener to the water when diluting white glue, I add a drop of washing up liquid to my brush cleaning water and used this when diluting prior to applying to some 0,5 mm foot rope for my Bounty. I applied the diluted mixture to a length of line, wiped it down with a kitchen towel and allowed it to dry under tension. The line was then fairly stiff (obviously the PVA had penetrated OK) and was perfect for the foot ropes, taking up the correct curve by teasing with my fingers. The result was far better than using the untreated line which tended to go where it wanted.

Incidentally I have made several models since the 90's and used CA for sealing knots on most of them and have not had any rigging breakages on any of them.

 

Danny

Previous buildsFlower Class Corvette (Modified plastic kit), Westbourne PLA Tug (Caldercraft),  Nordkap fishing boat (Billings)

                         Titanic (Hachette), Norske Love (Billings), Unicorn frigate (Corel), Granado (Caldercraft), Bounty (Caldercraft)

 

Current build :   HMS Bounty (Again!)

 

 

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I've been using GS-Hypo for my ratlines and it works very well. It dries very quickly and it is ever so slightly pliant so shouldn't cause any of the issues with brittleness that CA does. This also makes it easy to cut through when correcting a mistake.

 

My only issue is that the tube it comes in is quite 'tight' and the stuff tends to seep out at a fair rate even when there is no pressure being applied.

Jim
-----
Current builds:

HMS Snake
HMS Hood
Mechanical Solar System

Completed builds:

HMS Ballahoo

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  • 2 weeks later...

Jaager, thanks for the post on Neutral ph Adhesive. I purchased a bottle and it works well so far.

Dries with no shine and seems to have no odor.

Cheers, Harley<p 

                     

 

Under Construction:       

 

Completed:                      USS Atlanta CL-51 1/350 by Very Fire 

                                    Liberty Ship John W. Brown 1/350 by Trumpeter

                                    HMS Spiraea K-08 1/350 

                                    USS Arizona BB-39 1/200 by Trumpeter/Mk1 Design

                                 HMS Sir Gareth 1/350 by Starling Models

                                  USS Missouri BB-63 1945 1/350 by Joy-Yard, 9/11/21

                                  USS Indianapolis CA-35 1945 1/350 by Trumpeter

                                  USS Kidd DD-661, 1945, 1/350, on The Sullivans kit by Trumpeter

                                  USS Alaska CB-1, 1/350, Hobby Boss, Circa 2/1945

                          Brig Syren 1/64 Model Shipways, Wood

Started,On Hold:     Frigate Confederacy 1/64 Model Shipways, Wood

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  • 6 months later...

Andy, was that GS Hypo Cement Fabric (purple box) or normal (orange box)?

thanks!

Casey

 

"I drank what?" - Socrates

 

Current Builds:  

                                  

Finished Builds: 

 

Future Builds:        

  • Mamoli Golden Hind
  • Mamoli Black Prince
  • AL Swift
     

 

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When mixing herbicides, always add a surfactant to the mix to break the surface tension so the chemicals spread more evenly.  Its basically just soap, so it sounds reasonable to me that adding a little soap to a adhesive and water blend would be good for penetration.

jud

Edited by jud
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Jud,

 

If you're using the 50-50 mix of white glue and water, a drop or two of liquid dish soap goes a long way toward helping penetration of the line.  Even if the line has been beeswaxed.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans                             Triton Cross-Section   

                                                                                                                       USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War  _(Gallery) Build Log

                                                                                Wasa (Gallery)

                                                                                                                        HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Just so I understand, you put this on the rigging lines (PVA/Water/Soap) as well as the knots?

thanks

Casey

 

"I drank what?" - Socrates

 

Current Builds:  

                                  

Finished Builds: 

 

Future Builds:        

  • Mamoli Golden Hind
  • Mamoli Black Prince
  • AL Swift
     

 

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Just so I understand, you put this on the rigging lines (PVA/Water/Soap) as well as the knots?

thanks

 

I have on my Constellation and Wasa.   Helps to get the "sag" right. :)

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans                             Triton Cross-Section   

                                                                                                                       USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War  _(Gallery) Build Log

                                                                                Wasa (Gallery)

                                                                                                                        HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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I should add...some threads work better than others and as always test first as your milage may vary.  ;)

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans                             Triton Cross-Section   

                                                                                                                       USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War  _(Gallery) Build Log

                                                                                Wasa (Gallery)

                                                                                                                        HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Andy, was that GS Hypo Cement Fabric (purple box) or normal (orange box)?

thanks!

Although I've got both types in stock at home, I've been using the regular orange stuff. Haven't tried the purple stuff yet.... Should make a point to.. ;)

 

Andy

Quando Omni Flunkus, Moritati


Current Build:

USF Confederacy

 

 

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