NenadM

And another pair of eyes ...

I am a little baby in world of soldering, and hardly waiting for your update

Wish you luck, Bob. It is pretty complicated now when stanchions are on place. Do not forget slices with rivets that belong to each stanchion ... On your scale, this will be real accomplishment !!!!

Bob This is only right way if you want accurate model, no doubt !!! And if you are able to to this, nice, pedant and precisely, go on that way with no dilemma. I am not. Metal works are for me (for now I hope) close as some alien from deep space You work on C-plans scale, and that might be a little problem. Ports are only 6x6 mm and this little beasts - hinges, are so so so small in that scale (less than 1 mm, rather 0,5 mm) even to make, and ( for me, I hope not for you ) impossible to solder them in anyway. In my scale they are little bigger ( 9x9 mm) , but even then, I had to do them with magnifier 2x, putting 1x2 mm imitation of higens in a right place with a top of needle I was also thinking about something like that you intend for waterports, and remember that thoughts when I discovered that bulwarks are made of metal sheets, and told myself, this is just right thing to do But then I get my soldering iron (to big for precise work), and find myself as a very little clumsily baby in world of soldering, so I gave up. Blubs/droplets stay blubs/droplets and go where them want, little parts run away as them want, iron pick up everything it touches, aluminium has his own will, and I didnt know ( still do not) nothing about soldering technology ( not to forget, I am stupid attorney). Then start thinking about can sheet and glue ... and there arise question about - what type of glue, how to apply precisely, and how to do clean work on space less than 1x2 mm . So, having in mind that I had no other solution, and time for water-ports come, I decide to make them of wood, which is more familiar to me. And all must be painted, so there is no big difference except you watch model with magnifier. Maybe in another life, and in another model. Right thing is to make bulwarks of Iron/Alu sheets, and also waterports. That will sure resolve problem of strenght of bulwarks. But, how to connect this to wood structure ? Have you tools for that job ? Have you enough skill ? How to paint this thing on way to have black and white colour same on this and on near wooden parts? How to assume to be seen that it is made of metal ? People do this, but they are real champs. See this link (if you dare) https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=oa.760361680665244&type=1 Works of Croatian champion Roland Vlahović. Incredible wooden and soldering works But, as you are familiar with soldering, please try and go with this solution I am still bangin myself about tehnology how to make stanchions. So, try, play a little, and if it fits your expects, go on, cause you are definitely on a right way Nenad

Do you remember this ? On the other side, you can find/make some creativity even in digging holes, or use that moment for wandering thoughts

Lazy Nenad finally bought new thin paintbrush ...

Sometimes I think ... every single position you touch is in more than 1000 same pieces ( planks, dead-eyes, treenails, 12 waterports outside + 12 inside, 78 white panels, 52 stanchiones, later - 32 sails ( without studding-sails), masts, shackles on masts ....not to forget 12 buckets) Sometimes repeating can be boooooooring ... We are happy we do not make Victoria with Her over 100 guns ... with all gun equipment and fittings See you round, soon, I hope ...

Waiting for photos of your good work See you around Nenad

@Marc, wish you luck finding job in this hard times @Popeye, re-planking deck is one of my hopes, and it must be done @Mark, I do not have your will, patience and ... to start again. You have seen in my log that I was persistent like a donkey, sanding and sanding and sanding, and remade aft and fore decks, and a "miracle" comes ... now I have got "proper" spaces on main deck under edges of aft and fore decks to put there some things that have to be there, and they both look to much better. Also sanded, sanded, sanded, and outside look of hull and bulwarks seems to be proper with almost regular hull and outside bulwark lines, so whole thing start a little to look like Cutty Sark. But, on some way I can not explain, main deck is little twisted. Just to remember, here are some pictures of first versions of fore and aft decks from earlier stage of building with obviously mistakes Where I was, I can not be un-satisfied now. Of course, learned a lot This remind me to make some edit in one of first logs, to point on error in my decision how to work some steps Of course, joy very much in every hour in workshop Yesterday some little work on "rivets", preparing to paint it white, and reminding lazy Nenad to finally bye new thin paintbrush

I lost some lines, made deep surgery to find them, and found them on places that they have not to be Inside bulwarks have to be almost equal width in whole length above deck. I have something like this I think even I wanted to make this, I could not do this. There is no way to correct now, except to destroy all above waterline. No, thanks. Fortunately, another (left) bulwark is in better condition, so turning model left or right in glass home, will help a little. From the other point, external view of model looks pretty god for me, and that is happiness The cause of this mess is in some of first steps, when I formed deck with ONE PIECE of veneer 1mm wide, instead to plank with strips 1x3 or 1x5 mm. And I forced (?) that ONE PIECE DECK to fold to try to get latitudinal and longitudinal curvature of deck ?!?!?: And did not check lines of ribs before and after. And remade later fore and aft deck, and that is that now. That was mistake that costs. Never to repeat in next model Whatever, go forward, and enjoy

I made my mind, and decide for red/brown option, or something similar, we ll see when time comes So, preliminary paint of wateray, and start working on inside bulwarks First application of Archimedes' law of the modeling Each line of the hull flooded where it ought not, displaces an equal or greater amount of lines in places where you do not need them I wrote earlier about chaos I made on bulwarks inside, and now is time to try to mask it with overdetailing Here are pictures of details of working in present stage. First I put 1 x 1 molding for future suport of nail/dead-eye rail in distance of 2mm from panel section. This molding will not be visible ( hiden by rail) but I think it will be important for strong catching of glue. This molding gave me line for slices with rivets All is made of slices of mahogany veneer prepared as for second planking layer of hull, and thined to half or more When everything is glued, and on position, then thined again Following (tomorrow) Some necessary putty, and sanding 220+280+400 And then imitation of rivets And then painting all white acrylic After that stanchions ( big question still), and pin/dead-eye rails In pictures down, I put some temporary batten to get whole image Arhimedes lines are realy screaming visible , but I think they will be masked enough to be hard to see them. On deck I will put some "forgoten" bunch of ropes, some leaved bucket, some lost shoes, drunken sailor, dead cat or something... to mask my shame Of course, some water-ports had to be "moved" up to right place at the same distance to deck. When all be white, and surrounded with stuf, I think this will not be so screaming visible, as it is now

Lou, about painting deck I believe that you researched a lot, but it pictures, it looks as them are. It is not, by mine opinion, natural colour of any natural wood. I do not have been personaly to see Thx anyway. My intention obviosly, because lack of technique and experience, is not to make 100% accurate model. Simply, I can not to this. so, question is aesthetic

Patiente fight booring. 2:1 in first halftime !

An aesthetic issue In different times of regular maintenance of CS, main, poop and aft deck change colour, depending of colour of paint is used, so red/brown and gray are bot correct colours for deck and waterway on model On younger images colour is gray, and white bulwarks are not so exposed in contrast ro deck. But, gray colour do not fit quite well to the colour of deck cabins On the other side, it seems to me that, if I I use red/brown colour for deck/waterway, white bulwarks will be much more exposed to eye (and all mistakes), but in that case, colours of deck cabin and deck fit more Also, lower parts of the masts are white, and boats are white too, and if I use gray, it fit well And, considering in mind that time for making waterway is closer and closer, question arises. Decks can be painted later, but, if I decide for some colour of water way ( it must be done before mounting stanchions, very hard to do it after), this reflects to later colour of deck. So, it is time for decision. What do you think ? Pure aesthetic ...

And here is "lost" stanchion No 7. Yes, there it is, indeed

Thx, Bob, waiting for picture if you find it

Thx Lou In meantime, preparing for stanchions, I made some analysis of C-plans So, Bob, you said that C-plans are your Bible. Considering that you resolved this problem earlier, and having not write about, please look attached document and post your remarks. Urge you to pay particular attention to the position marked with 7, it seems that there is no stanchion, because of pilar of skid beam ? stanchions.pdf To add something else: With a lot of patience and time to spend in screening, of Flicker can be find some very clear pictures of details from decks and outside. Some of that picture are not listed in Google pictures. I could not re-post it (copyrights), so, run your PC-s and research, it is usefull Edit Founded picture today. Obviosly left side of Her, with stanchiones 3,4 and 5

And one interesting thing about soldering issue In Belgrade appear mini handy torch for welding with price about 8 € / 10-11$ It is worth to try and learn I know what I shall ask for my birthday !!!

I do not know Lou ?

Bob With me it is just opposite When weather is fine, day is long, and outside is shine and warm, there is always somewhere to go, and something to do in garden and home-yard, and sometimes I am so tired to work on Her. In winter, as I do not like much to wach TV, and as I am reading books when I go to sleep, kids in the evening are not in home, and there is mainly no other job to do in the evening, so I am in ship-yard almost every evening. Ship-yard is in heating room, and there is worm enough to work in winter. Also to mention, in Serbia on 2010 was "reform" of justice system, and in the 2014 starts again "reform of reform" of justice system (?!?!?!?!?). Minister of justice is boy 27 years old (?) who do not know even how court look inside, and not at all how whole system works... There were 5 courts in Belgrade until 2010, after 2010 they were packed in one and only court (?), now this court is separated in three, all cases are packed in boxes waiting to move to court houses, but even today it is unknown where two of courts will be seated (?!?!?!) That means that courts will not work until late spring-early summer, maybe untill autumn. To mention that in Serbia are just announced unnecessary parliamentary elections, so there will be nobody in goverement really interested and dedicated to finish reforms until ellections ended in march/april, and new goverment sited in april/may... sometimes I feel like Alice in Wonderland. So, usual working day who lasts in 2013. about 8-12 working hours, now is about 6-8 working hours ... That also means - less of job and money of course I promissed myself not to cry and mourn any more But good is - more time for ship modelling, very good sedative not to think about all arround Also is significant that Admiral is attorney too, and as we work together in our office, I do not have to look her all 24 hours a day ... Push yourself a little ...

Thx Bob for advise My poor thing has so strong bulwarks now, that there is no problem to turn her on head. During second planking time, and during painting She was on her head many times, and do not complain. Without any damage of course. In picture above you can see "thickness" of bulwark "walls" I mentioned And I think that in the end this will be pretty good visually masked. I was very astonished when realised that I can mask it. Happy event in the circumstances I am surrounded by My idea is to mount rail/dead-eye holders and stanchions under them, to finish second planking of main deck and then to turn Her on head for coopering. All of this details you mentioned are under and below line of strong main rail, so I think there is no danger. Mounting of dead-eyes will come later after coopering. Her dry dock is made of styrofoam with plane surface down, so when I turn her, I then put her on plane surface of dry dock, so She lays still on fore and aft deck parts Of course, She do not like to lay your left hand on her during work See you around and waiting for your progress Nenad

"Dental" work progress well Something between and Before and after before and after And on that way x 80

Very nice work. This model and DeAgostini magazin was a trigger for me to return to wooden ship modelling after 30 years (ali nisam imao strpljenja da čekam broj po broj, pa sam se vratio mojim starim nacrtima) Regards

How cleaning job go forward, from time to time it seems that Her Majesty began to purr like a cat ...

I like it !