gieb8688

NOTE: In this log I used Photo Bucket to add pictures but after problems with PB all my links to my pictures were blocked. I've replaced most of the dead links with new pictures but that was not always possible. (so there are still some deadlinks and sometimes the sequence is not correct)
 
movie.avi
 
In this buildinglog I will present you the build of the Dutch beamtrawler KW88, Pelikaan.
42,35 x 8,50 x 5,16 mtr
Build in 1999 as the UK 153, Lun Senior, sold in 2007 and named KW88, Pelikaan.
Motor: 2000HP Deutz
 
The ship has sumwings and uses an electric pulse system The sumwing are like wings and do not touch the bottom. With electric pulse the fish jumps of the bottom and ends in the net.
 
I started collecting information, photo's and drawings a few months ago and now I am at the point that I can actually start with the build.
I have a complete set of original drawings and almost 500 photo's
 
It will take some time before I start building this ship because I want to finish the KW49 first.
 
First some photo's of the ship.
 
As the UK 153

 
New registrationnumber




 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi, some pictures of the tiller in court at 1 / 48th. The fact bareau 1.2 mm and overall about 3.5 cm.
Made with a lap and limes.
Good evening
 
Isalbert

Hello,
 
the furniture for the great cabin is now ready. First a desk and a sofa.
 

 

 
And here is all finished and painted.
 

 

 

 
The next days I will make some smaller things, like books, glasses and bottles. I would't make lanterns for these cabins, because I think that the servants of the captain will bring them in when it is necessary. 
 
Regards,
Siggi

Hello everyone…
... let me continue where I left off last time: therefore, the model has decorated interior, a storage area in the middle of the hull and stable in the stern. The entire structure is subordinated to the construction of these parts. The keel and stem are made of 6mm walnut panels. There are bulkheads with gaps plugged in it. The bulkheads are connected with several impressed strips. Once the construction was completed, the inner part of the hull is to be planked with strips. After that, the structure is strong enough to endure the setting of the outside planking. Otherwise, all of our models that have interiors are designed in this way. The models that have not interiors are designed to contain round walnut bars. Those bars, dowels, center the bulkheads very precisely. Glue is to be applied by brush to the points of contact of elements after the assembling of the structure. When constructing our scale models, we take into consideration the strength of the structures. On this model, if desired, hatches, doors and openings could be left open. In this way the view to the interior is allowed... All visible parts are made of solid walnut wood.
Beginners should not be afraid of making these model ... They will only take a longer time to complete it. This is a single-planking method and requires a little more work ...
... Here are a few photos of the construction. This is the work of the person to whom this is the first scale model in the life :

Hello all, after a few busy days, now I get a bit of time to rest and to write something about Cog of Ragusa to you ...
First of all I am grateful for the warm welcome and visiting our website ... Donfarr, jazzchip ... thanks a lot ,
thanks for the likes ...
... 'Cog' is a project that we were building a year or two before its realization ... the basic guiding was votive fresco
of her from the sixteenth century ... lower its black and white photo of the fresco ... the silhouettes of people
on the bow and the mast top were very helpful. We took that they were around 1.75m high and we made the Ragusian Cog
reconstruction ...
... So, after two years of work, this is what we get: the text that we wrote about this type of Cog is following
and is copied from our site:
 
Cog is the war and merchant ship in the North Sea, the Mediterranean and the Adriatic Sea, with a big lead
and two small reserve masts, whose main characteristic is high and tight bow tower forward with a almost horizontal
triangular deck. One feature of this ship are the side openings for boarding horses and cattle and it is designed
primarly for transporting army. It is mentioned for the first time in the 11th century, and across the Mediterranean
in the 13th century. These ships were initially inaccessible thanks to the impregnable castle. Together with Cogs
often sailed caravels and carrack.
 
... This is a model with completely furnished interiors, store and cabins,which makes it very beautiful and
interesting. The keel and the posts are made of solid walnut wood, like all the elements below the deck and
the deck. The sails are embroidered on the cloth. In the box there are 11 plates laser cut.
There are bars and all the necessary material. The model is designed for experienced modeler, but beginners, with a little
effort and following the instructions do not have problems with the construction of her ... You will really enjoy
in the realization of this model.
 
... Now, for the first hand, here are some photos of the prototype of the model-made in parallel with the project ....
I was very cheerful to say something about the way of making the assembly kit ... it's what I intend to do next ...
 
Best regards

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

cont...
 

 

Thank you friends for your comments.
 
cont...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Since the beginning of May was little time for Utrecht. Some rather interesting jobs took precedence.
But something was still managed in Angarfathers dockyard.   Some pics from the way       To make the sternsection was a most interesting  job. The outside after first fairing      Fairing the inside         Aligning the components prior to assembly         That's Utrecht today.           Cheers Hartmut

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 33 – Main Deck Planking continued
 
Completing the deck planking on each side involved fitting the straight parallel planking to the wide margin plank inside the binding strakes and waterways. These members follow the curve of the side.  The waterways and binding strakes were structural.  The curved margin planks allowed the deck planks to be cut in without damaging the structural inner binding strakes.
 
After the angles of the plank end cuts reached about 60 degrees, further tapering would result in feather edges at the ends that could not be caulked.  Forty-five degrees is probably a better guide, but I used sharper angles on these joints that would be completely hidden by the forecastle deck. In the first picture, loose planks are being used to mark the points at which the full plank widths intersect the edge of the margin plank.
 

 
These marks define the cutting in points.  At each of these a knife or chisel cut was made into the margin plank perpendicular to the deck plank ends and one-half of the plank width.  The shapes of the required plank tapers can be seen in this picture.  Note that the joints get longer going aft, as the curvature of the side becomes less.
 
In the next picture the end has been formed on a plank and it is being marked for cutting out further aft where it meets the main cabin coaming.
 

 
The next picture shows the plank ends under the forecastle.
 

 
In this picture the Samson post knee has been installed and the breast beam made and laid across the bulwarks. The bowsprit opening has been enlarged to the required 36” width.  In the next picture the main deck planking is approaching completion.
 

 
The method of cutting the long joint tapers is shown in the next picture.
 

 
I cut the joints while there is sufficient space for the chiseling - before the adjacent planks were installed.  The chisel is a long, straight, model-sized paring chisel – one of my most frequently used and most essential tools.  Directions for making these chisels were included in Naiad Volume I.  In the next picture a shaped plank end is being fit into its joint.
 

 
For best visual results the pared side of these planks should be painted like the inner edges – to show the caulk line.  I did not do the on this demo model – relying solely on the dark glue to highlight the joint.
 
The next picture shows the very last piece – with a very longer taper – about to be installed.
 

 
Except for the uncovered hatches, the crude POB framing under the deck was now completely covered – a moment I was waiting for.  In the next picture the last plank is in.
 

 
The deck is still wet in this picture from washing off excess glue.  When completely dry, the deck planking was leveled where necessary using the flat rifflers and then sandpaper.  I will cover the methods used for fastenings and final deck finish in the next part.
 
 
Ed
 

Minor update... planking is ongoing but I needed a break.  So back to the longboat.
 
Reworking again... 5th time I think, the form for making the longboat.  1st was the hand carved plug... tossed it.  2nd was the bulkheads like Chuck uses and BE did so well at 1:64...  broke the bulkheads.  3rd was the same using thicker bulkheads, still broke off the framing bits.   4th was a plug that used the laser to cut out... Something hiccupped and it came out 1" too long.  I'm still not sure what happened...  So.. number 5... in all it's glory.  Exact size and I'm happy.   Now to put it together and start adding stuff like frames and keel. 
 

Not much done but the hull is getting there.  Here are pictures of the bow. stern and rudder area.
 
Bob
 
 

 
 

 
 

Hello Everybody...
This is Jerry writing...Charlene has asked me to do a little more work as she has little time available these days for model ship building.  So, I made her a deal: I will do a little more of the work if she would at least take a few minutes to observe the different operations as progress is made.  She agreed so I took over for a couple of days while she was at work and the accompanying pictures show what has been done and where we are presently at.  This by no means is to imply that I am going to complete the build without Charlene's help and contribution.  She has all next week off from school (Thanksgiving holiday) so I expect she  will get some work done on Bounty.  In the meantime here are some pictures of our progress.  Reminder:  place mouse pointer on picture for caption..
Best,
Jerry (for Charlene)

Hi again folks,
 
I wanted to show you a problem I ran into which of course would not be a problem if I had any other intention than coppering the hull. But there you have it. I had the temerity as a first time builder to think I could do a good enough job to show the hull off in walnut.
 
First the stern - I think looks pretty good...
Then midships, things are fitting together fairly well...
Finally, the mess of different colour woods at the bow. The lighter coloured wood is the 1 by 16 mm walnut gun port planking used to spile the bow section planks so that I could achieve a horizontal lie (that I want to emulate). Obviously this kit supplied walnut was sourced from a different stock (not to confuse with the walnut I also bought locally and milled). I honestly didn't notice how different the wood looked until I gave it a light sand and moistened it. Dread. So unless I can figure out how to get this stuff to look more like the other planking, or rip it out and find some other wood (seems very difficult to do), I am going to have to accept that coppering is in my future. Anyone have any advice/encouragement/pity for me??
 
Best, Ian

"Can I see a close up of your transom and aft cabins" - Here you are Jay. This is how the transom looked when I finished adding the decorations months ago:
 

 
And sadly here is how it looks today. I was really pleased with those details at the ends of the arms and now they are gone due to handling of the hull. I am going to try to recreate some of those details and reattach them, but I will be waiting until much closer to the end of this build so I don't mess them up again. I have not touched up the black paint under the rails yet, either, but will do that after the last rail piece is in place.
 

 

 

 

 
I (somewhat) bravely drilled a series of holes through the port side bulwark for the cathead. This took a lot of syching myself up to do it and it was not easy due to the angle of the bulwarks and the angle of the hole needed. I started using a small drill that I drilled from the outside almost straight into the bulwark, then used larger drills at more and more of an angle. I finished the hole with square files to square it up until the cathead fit, and notched the bottom of the cathead to fit over the waterway and plank sheer.
 

 

 
Now all I have to do is replicate this on the starboard side - same position, same angle, same depth. How hard can that be? I am not too optimistic that I can pull it off, but I will give it a go tonight. Wish me luck. Oh and I have to fix some planks around the port cathead hole that started to come up during the drilling process. I need to add some support behind them, which may be wood filler as the hole is too small to try to get a piece of wood in there. Oh and I also took a closer look at the scarf joints on the rails, and they could benefit from some wood filler, so I added that last night. And I have to clean up some scratches in the deck planks from the filing process. I should have put some masking tape down before I started drilling and filing, which I will do on the starboard side.

I see that at least three of you agree that 1:96 is the way to go.  So now to start.  I traced the lines in AutoCad and developed the bulkheads and keel.  Then I used the scroll saw and belt sander to create lots of sawdust.  What was left is pictured below.  Her lines are better than I had expected all 20.75” inches of her.  And now it’s on to planking.
 
Bob
 

 

Thank you very much Bob,
 
I`m trying to Keep the upper hull rails clean and in natural wood appeal whilst applying the black paint without messing, and with help of the Tamiya tape masking it really works very well...
 
Nils
 

I made an error in the building sequence and I should have installed the main mastpartner earlier. Now I got a bit into trouble getting it in at this stage. I had to take a shortcut and omitted half lapping the carlings under the deck beam. After the gratings are installed this won't be visible, but I'm confessing this error anyway :-)
 
Getting the pump tubes right was a bit of trial and error but after not to much work they were in place without to much hassle, I guess I was lucky today. I added iron bands at the end of the tubes from thin paper.
 

 

 

 

 
Remco
 

Ok here we go.
 
When cutting a brass rod with a sharp knife a burr is created, I use this both to my advantage and at one point it needs to be removed (otherwise you'll have trouble inserting the bolt in the predrilled hole. Here are the steps involved:
 
1. This is the rod after the last bolt was cut
2. The burr is removed using a small steel ruler
3. A new diagonal burr is created to have the bolt firmly set in the predrilled hole ( I use bot 0,5 mm brass rod and a 0,5 mm steel drill to drill the holes, without the diagonal burr the fit is a bit loose)
4. Cutting off the bolt creates a burr this is the dome of the bolt
 

 
Tools needed (I won't cover the use of Liver of Sulphur which I use to blacken the bolts after they are in place):
 

 
Step 1 This is the rod after the last bolt was cut
 

 
Step 2 The burr is removed using a small steel ruler
 

 
Step 3 A new diagonal burr is created by rolling a sharp blade overt he rod to have the bolt firmly set in the predrilled hole
 

 

 
Step 4 Cutting off the bolt creates a burr this is the dome of the bolt
 

 

 

 
 
I use a brass rod with a small hole in the point to push the bolt into place leaving the dome of the bolt proud to the surface. When the are all done I treat them with liver of sulphur to blacken them.
 

 
The end result (it's hard to capture but each bolt has a nice subtle dome):
 

 

 
Remco
 

Thanks guys. It almost stumped me....... almost
 
I had these super tiny b brass nails from years ago. I wish I could remember where I got them. There are not enough to finish nailing the gudgeons to the stern. The heads on these are much smaller than anything else I have so I am now in the process of painstakingly filing down bigger nail heads to this much smaller size. Need about 15 more. I think I drilled way too many nail holes.
 

Hi,
When  began to build more and larger ships to set masts
cranes were needed, that were also helpful in loading heavy items of equipment such as guns or ship cargo.
Some of them have survived to our times.
 
Foto 1-6 Old Crane in Gdańsk was built between 1442-1444. Served mainly as a device port for loading goods and ballast
                                                 on ships, and to put up their masts. The device was able to lift the weight of four tons,
                                                 for the height of eleven meters. The mechanism of two drums having a diameter
                                                 of about six meters. Used as a driving force of people with their feet on the inside of the drum.
 
Foto 7 Masting Crane in Copenhagen was built in 1748–51 as part of Royal Naval Shipyard at Holmen.
Foto 8-9 Old crane in Karlskrona ( Sweden) was built in 1803 in brick with a roof covered with sheet copper roof,
                                                                      the building consists of six floors and is 42 meters high. At the heaviest
                                                                      lift is required 96 man to drive once  at the capstans..
                                                                      The machines are still fully intact.
Foto 10 Old crane in Stockholm . Styckekranen crane is a unique construction works in wood, from the mid-1700s .
                                                   A lifting and swiveling crane, used by, among others loading and unloading of pieces
                                                   ie guns to the Navy. The drive mechanism consists of two paddle wheels (treadmill)
                                                   where boatmen or punished walked in the wheels during shifts. A third wheel is available
                                                   in the crane upper part which forms the swivel mechanism in order to get over the cargo
                                                   to and from vessels. It required frequent high accuracy at work to fit into the cannon 
                                                   into place in the vessel with respect to the vessel also were often in motion during
                                                   the task. In each paddle wheel could be up to ten hike, a total of twenty men.
Foto 11 model of early floating crane i Maritime Museum in Karlskrona.
Foto 12 mast lifting in Gdańsk.
 
Tadeusz

Hello Michael,
She is scratch built plank on bulkhead ,mahogany planking 8 x 3, After sanding and finishing the hull I applied a layer of tissue fibre glass, then polished with 1500 water paper and then buffing compound. The deck housing accommodates the radio control servo winch for the sails 1:1 for the fore sail and 1:3 disadvantage for the main sail then a second servo for the rudder.
Hoping to launch finally at the club in a month or two, the detail is never ending as I am sure you are well aware of.
Kind regards
Owen

Mike, Nils, Druxey, and John thanks for the positive feedback, and another thank you for all who added a like.
 
I spent a fair bit of time today looking for the gaff crane to fix to the mast before setting it up, went through all the possible hiding places all the bins and containers that I had stored various parts. Then it dawned on me that it was attached to the gaff with the halliard shackle and blocks.
 
I needed to rearrange the room a little and removed the sewing machine brought in the rolling base from the shop after changing the top for a slightly smaller one.
 

 
It is a good job that our ceilings are all ten feet.
 

 
Fiddling with the shrouds for the bowsprit seemed to take forever.
 

 
Now she is beginning to look like a cutter again.
 

 
Michael
 
 

Hello MSW,
 
It took quite a while but I finally decided on the boat to build.  I have a too long list and will probably not come close to building them all.  As I have said before I live in a small house without room to to display large boats.  The options are build small boats or build in small scale.  This time I chose small scale at 1:200 and cross my fingers that I do it justice.
 
The US Coast Guard Pequot (WARC-58). 
 
During WWII this cable ship laid top secret Indicator Loop cables to protect harbors from German U-boats. Her mission ranged from the ports of Virginia up to Argentia, Newfoundland.
 
The Pequot was built in 1909 by the New York Shipbuilding Company in Camden, New Jersey with the name General Samuel M. Mills and first commissioned as an Army mine layer. As a twin screw ship she was able to conduct the critical maneuvering required for precise cable laying operations. The Pequot had a length of 166' and a beam of 32'. With a draft of 13' she displaced 1106 tons. During wartime the crew consisted of 6 officers and 63 enlisted men. The ship was armed with two 20mm automatic fire cannons. On top of the rear cabin her signal letters and radio call sign, NRFQ, was painted so aircraft could raise the ship on the radio. The Pequot's official visual call sign as designated by the Chief of Naval Operations was W58.
 
Pequot was named after an Indian tribe resident in Southern Connecticut, members of the Algonquian language grouping.
 
From the information and pictures I‘ve been able to able to find the Pequot and her sisters were of riveted steel for the hull and maim deck housing.  Above that she was wood. So it look like I’ll be re-studying the build style of MSW member Nils (Mirabell61).
 
Bob
 
As the General Samuel M. Mills

 
As the Pequot

 
 
 

The NRG is excited to launch our latest program focusing on advancing the art of ship modeling through research.  The Ship Model Grant Program was developed to provide ship modelers of all levels easy access to fully developed modeling projects.  We are seeking NRG members who can develop a thoroughly researched set of plans and accompanying monograph for smaller vessels and projects.  The details of the Grant program are provided below.   After work has been completed for all of the materials, the NRG will print the plans and offer them to ship modeling community at large.  The accompanying monograph will be produced in electronic format and supplied as a CD along with the plans.
 

 
To kick off the program, the NRG has selected the first project.  This first NRG Monograph will contain the plans for a plank-on-bulkhead model of the Hudson River Sloop “First Effort” built in 1830 (pictured above).  We have selected this project to set a standard for the size and scope of the projects intended for Grant program.  If you are an NRG member who would like to work with the NRG to develop other projects like this, read the details below and submit a proposal.  Should you have any questions about the program please contact Chuck Passaro at cpassaro@verizon.net.  The NRG Grant Program rules and details can also be downloaded from our website.  Visit www.thenrg.org today.
 
The NRG Ship Model Project Grant Program
 
Request for Proposals: The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is issuing a request for proposals for consideration of funding projects which advance the art of ship modeling through research.
 
Eligibility:  The Nautical Research Guild Grant Program is open to NRG members only.
 
Project Description:   The NRG will award $750 to $2500 for individual projects that provide original research and plans for small ship modeling projects.  In addition, up to 10% of each sale will be awarded for the exclusive rights to publish and sell the completed published work in either print or electronic format.  Grant amounts will be determined by the NRG Board of Directors based on the size and scope of the accepted proposal.  Finished monographs and plans will be offered and branded by the NRG and copyrights will be maintained by the NRG.  All credit will be given to the author.
Each project proposed must be model ship related with research obtained from primary or secondary sources. Projects are to be for scratch built/semi-scratch built models.  Monographs must contain a section on history and research as well as a “how-to” for the model builder.  The monograph must also be accompanied with a set of plans to allow building of the project, produced electronically with the intention of being printed by the NRG for sale.
 
Project Specifications:
Plank on bulkhead, plank on frame, and solid hull are all acceptable building methods.
 
Other building methods will be reviewed by the Board for appropriateness.
The recipient must include plans to build the model and a corresponding monograph of 70 to 100 pages depending on the scope of the subject matter, with bibliography of all sources used.
 
Preference will be given to smaller projects: For example small cutters, launches, brigs, sloops, tugs, cross section models, battle stations, dioramas etc.  The NRG is NOT looking for larger vessels such as frigates, ship of the line, battleships etc.
 
Projects should take the average builder between 3 to 8 months to complete.
 
Projects can be directed toward the beginner, intermediate or advanced ship
modelers.
 
The monograph must be delivered in MS word format and the plans delivered in PDF format.
 
Grant awards will be administered in installments with the dates and amounts of payment determined by the NRG, and final payment being made upon delivery and review of the project by the NRG Board.
 
The NRG reserves the right to stop further payments and advancement of the project upon assessing the author’s progress.
 
Failure to complete the project in a timely manner may result in the cancellation of the project by the Board without further payment.
 
All proposals must be sent to :  Nautical Research Guild, 237 S Lincoln St, Westmont, IL 60559 or by email to info@thenauticalresearchguild.org
 
Information Required at the Time of Submission:
 
Proposal must include applicant Name, Address, Phone and E-Mail address.
 
Project Abstract:  Applicants must submit an abstract of less than 200 words describing the proposed project, including what level of builder it will be directed towards. Identify how it will enhance the knowledge and skill of the model builder.
 
Approach: List all equipment and materials required to complete the project.
Milestone Schedule: An activity schedule should be submitted for the duration of your research for project delivery.  Starting with month one and concluding with the project delivery date.  Expect to give the Board frequent updates based on this schedule (i.e. monthly, quarterly etc.)  Grant projects must NOT take the applicant longer than 14 months to complete once accepted.
 
Cost Summary: Detail all costs to be incurred for the project up to its delivery, including but not limited to equipment purchases, materials, information technology needs and software, travel, and research.  Prepare your budget carefully and make it as detailed as possible. 

1st Planking:
All 1st planks glued onto the framing, sanded smooth ready for the 2nd planking. Fun begins on the more important, and visual planks.
I learnt a lot fitting the first layer. Found some information on "planking rules" which I practiced on some of the final planks.
I was pretty happy that I got a fair shape in the end. A few mistakes on the way, but hey got to learn.