gieb8688

Hmm....  Here's the area that needs the rudder coat... between the two red areas.  It's fairly long.  There's two "slots" on each side of the stern post.  Maybe if I fill those in.....   ????    In fact, I think that will do the trick.  
 
It was a very bad decision on my part to plank the counter before installing the stern post.   Lesson learned.
 
  

I think I got it.  Or are at least darn close.  If not, I'll do another one.  
 

Thanks for the comments and the "likes"...
 
Here's the rudder ready to hang.   Once the cudgeons are on the hull, I'll add the rudder coat and mount it.  I'll probably pin it to the sternpost from the inside of the hull just to keep it in place as I'll be flipping the hull over a few more times before cutting it loose and mounting it to a cradle.
 
I made a judgement call after testing on some scrap about the bolts.  Not going to happen.  If the bolts are visible, they're oversize by an order of magnitude.  If' they're just the right size, they're invisible.  
 
I also did some testing to compare Jax Black to Birchwood Casey Black.  Not much difference except maybe the Birchwood Casey is a bit blacker and also seems to cover silver solder better.
 
Been a busy of testing this stuff.  
 
Ok.. pictures.....
 
First piccy shows the old and the new together.  I'm happier with the new and the old is hitting the scrap box.   The second pic has a dummy sternpost next to it.  I've got a big smile on that one.  
 

 

Small update in the overall scheme of things.
 
The new rudder is ready for the metal work and some additional holes.  For example the two tiller holes are drilled but need squaring up with some file work and a couple of small holes for the eyebolts/ringbolts need drilling   All things considered and compared to the elder brother rudder, I'm happy with this.  There is one minor defect that will be hidden by the rudder coat.  And no, i"m not going to forget this bit.....
 
The opening for the pintles is shaped now like the French ones and not like the English properly. I also used boxwood from three different sheets/scraps in order to have some variation between the three slabs of wood.
 
Edit:  Actually... I'm wrong.  Both the English and the French did that same way.  The square openings are the way many kits do them.   I have much to unlearn... as well as learn.
 
For the metal work, I'm going with smaller diameter pintles and cudgoens than on the first version. the irons (straps), I'll make from the same material as before.   Also, I'm considering right now eliminating the bolts holding the irons to the rudder and hull because even though the I'm using are the tiniest I can find, as this scale they are still too large.  i believe if my measurements and eyes are to be believed they work out to having the heads 3" in diameter and standing proud at out 1.5".
 
I'll be using epoxy for securing the metal to the wood, although I need to test first and make sure that it will hold.
 
 
 
 

Update....
 
Rudder temporarily installed (the blue tape keeps it from falling off).  I'll hit the hull with some Wipe-on-Poly and start working on the rudder coat.  
 

I have gotten a little more done, these are attempt number 2 might do better on number three but these will do.
These are cabin/deck lights.

One more mini project worked out  still to be touched up and white band painted.

I managed to get another piece of deck  gear done today. Kinda important since this is a tug boat.

Well it has been raining here for days so I don't feel bad about not getting some outside chores done. So I have been busy in the shipyard and this is what I have put together. Need to blacken the copper, Shorten levers, Paint what does get paint. Glue it all together.
 but pretty much done.

Been busy in the shipyard , while I need to trim shackle pins and clean up metal blocks yet, nothing glued down.

As we say each part is a model of its own.  So I made the model of the pilot house.  As I’m typing this I realize I still need to add the navigation lights.  But here are the pictures.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

The "likes", comments, and questions/challenges appreciated..... 
 
So... pushing the envelope...
 
I've reworked the rudder and added some metalwork.  It looks a lot better.    The metal banding will have the appropriate amount of nails in it before this piece is ready to mount.
 
Edit:  I forgot to add... I cut it apart using a thin jeweler's saw and then glued it back together using some colored glue.
 

 
And a couple of quick shots of the rudder irons/straps in work.  I started by annealing the straps.  I silver solder the tube, cut-off the excess, and clean it up with a file.  For the pintle, a 1/16" brass rod will be epoxied into the tube.  The cudgeon will not have the shaft, naturally.  
 

I should note that these are not cleaned up yet.  

 
So far, so good.  I've got a pile of brass pieces now pickling in some vinegar.   I'll rinse well and let dry overnight.  I'm thinking of using paint on these or hitting the local gunshop tomorrow for some Birchwood Casey's.  In testing, Blacken-It did nothing for the silver solder.  I've got some discards painted and drying and I'll how they look.  

Thanks for the "likes" and comments.
 
When I laid the keel, I also cut the stem, the stern post, and the rudder from the same chunk of wood.   I've been busy with other things recently, but did spend a lot of time researching the rudder and sorting things out.  I found that many of my assumptions and some of what is on the plans wrong.
 
Here's what I've found (including from those responding to a post on this)...
 
1) As built in 1755, there's minimal vertical taper.  It wasn't common to do this, but not uncommon either.  Which makes me wonder that maybe it was a shipyard decision.   The rudder follows this. 
 
2) There is no fore and aft taper to the rudder.  That one caught me by surprise.
 
3) There is a cavitation/turbulence groove.  This would have been added when the ship was rebuilt/overhauled at some point later in time.  It would have been present in 1778 when captured.
 
4) The fore side of the rudder was beveled at about a 45 degree angle.  The pintle and cudgeon<SP?> straps were recessed only at the fore side of the rudder and at the aft side of the sternpost where the straps bend to the side.  They were recessed as on some other nation's ships.   
 
5) No spectacle plate.  There's an eyebolt with rings on each side just above the strop hole for the emergency steering.  The strop hole is nominally rigged to two eyebolts.
 
So.. I machined the rudder blank as shown in the pictures below.  There's two mortises in the top of the rudder, one for the normal tiller (which on Licorne is in the Great Room) and one for the emergency tiller which is on the quarterdeck.
 


 
I'm off and running with the metalwork.  I've started silver soldering and wondered why I didn't do this years ago.  It's pretty fast and gives a nice result.  
 
 

At long last, the "Victory" is settled into her permanent home, which gives back the work space in the den.  While the model seemed rather large, the case seems massive.  But more on that later. 
 
My first case was a proprietary case put together with tempered glass (to avoid shards of glass with active grandkids) on an Oak table I made for support. Tempering glass distorts it slightly so the fit is less than perfect.  The "Cutty Sark" found it's home in our office.

 
The second case was put together using brass "L"  3/8" and a black walnut base obtained from American Marine Gallery, Gloucester, MA.  This preserves and displays the "USS Constitution" with tempered glass, glued by silicone as in an aquarium, with the glue joints covered by the brass "L". This required cutting down the base and using a router for the glass channel, and again a walnut table to display it.  By lifting the top, the front panel is removable. The entry hall got this one.

 
Finally, the "HMS Victory" being even larger required a bigger case. Living in a condo does impose limits on work space and the use of power tools, so I elected to have the case built by Raven Arts in Seabec, Washington.  It seems rather massive, but is a work of art with mahogany and black walnut, museum quality acrylic, internal LED lighting and an opening back panel.  Being the largest, the "Victory" chose the favored location, the living room.

 
So where, oh where does the next one go?  Did I mention that we are thinking of downsizing?  Perhaps it is time for miniature models.  Cheers, Gil
 
 
 
 

Update
 
Prototyp winch is now complete (requires a few paint touch ups)
 
Two of these winches go on the forecastle deck and one on the forward waist deck, behind the foremast
 
Two reciprocating steam drives mounted, also outer winding drums and brake. The framework was chemically blackend.
 
2 of these winches go on the forecastle deck and one on the forward waist deck, behind the foremast
 
Nils
 

 
 

Thank you Dirk .
I have started assembling the stern, it will be quite hard work.

Thank you to all for very nice comments!
I finished the deck, including treenailing and attachment of the sculpers.

Thank you guys!
I finished the planking of the central belt of main deck.

Thank you aviaamator .
Margin plank.

Thank you Nigel .
Preparation before planking of the main deck.

Gratings.

Attaching metal parts, rudders and draught marks on the hull.

Preparation of metal parts.

Thank you Jason!
Moldings from boxwood - yet only temporary fastening.

Thanks to all for nice comments.
I added the top part of the planking above the wales with free space for decorative moldings.