dvm27

Greetings,
 
Let the real work begin! I am ready to start the frames.
 
I realized that the keel I had made a year ago is slightly thicker than Chuck’s but I think I can get away with a little tapering at the stern when the time comes. The rest of the fittings were straightforward although I had my fair share of screwups. I decided to employ a higher build board jig so that the stern and stem posts were clasped at their tops - though I know that these extensions will get in my way later. I will interchange the lower jigs when the time comes. 
 



Cheers,
Ian

Work has restarted on Chapter 7, all of the beam positions were checked again and numbered 1-30, #25 was permantly installed and I have started adjusting the bulkheads and doors into position, I really happy to be back building again.
 
ben

I had completed making all the Orlop deck gratings (image below). From what I could find they ran along both sides of the hull , full length, and this was called the carpenter's walk. There was also a run along the bow from port to larboard (starboard) and three central gratings.  The topside of all were flush with the top of the beams. The first task was to lightly sand the top of the grating battens to be flush with the grating ledges as mine stood a bit proud. I set my sandpaper down onto the small repurposed pastry marble slab with some double sided tape to keep it secure and had at it (image below).
Installing the gratings was, at first, an overwhelming challenge. The grating ledges were to be set into notches cut into the deck beams and carlings. Aligning these notches properly was impossible, and occasionally splitting the beam corners off unavoidable. To alleviate this, I simply cut (chiselled and scraped) the corner edges off of the beams and carlings that the grating ledges were to rest on, and then I sanded the underside corners of the grating ledges that were to rest on those beams and carlings (image above). Applied a little dab of white PVA glue and plopped them into place. When looking down at it you cannot tell the complete beam corner is gone, plus it will be deep enough below other decks that seeing anything will draw attention away from such a small detail.
In the image above I only have the three central gratings installed.   I did not install the floor, lower futtock or second futtock riders. The second futtock riders pass through the Orlop deck and up to the underside of the Gundeck clamps. In doing so, these run alongside the deck beams and pass through the gratings in those areas. That is why some beams haven't knees in between bracing them. When installing those gratings I notched them out to allow the passage of the riders. I have no intention of adding the riders... they won't be seen or missed.
Once all the gratings are in I will install the Orlop standard knees above the floor beams. Then I move up to the Gundeck.
I am further along than these photos suggest but still will need a couple of nice days to finish them off. Yes, I am back outside working on the ship, so nice weather is a must. Yesterday was rainy, today is a bit cruddy, and the next few are forecasted to be wet!

Thanks to all❤️
 
 

The preliminary design for the stern carvings are now complete, I’m going to review them and make any adjustments necessary and proceed with the prototype sets. Looks like I need to get moving on the model so I have something to attach these beauties to.
 
JJ

I’m back in the states, making  a pit stop home to laser cut a few things, I should be back at it in a week or so. Will post some updates as I begin my planking journey. 
For now here are some photos of the Everest base camp trek, which took me above 18,500’ and through 32 miles of rough Himalayan terrain but the views were simply spectacular!
 
JJ
 

To scupper or not to scupper.
 
Most contemporary models do not show the scuppers.   In fact the contemporary model of Speedwell doesnt show the scuppers. I didnt add the scuppers on my Winnie build which was typical.  But I am going to show them on my speedwell.   Nothing fancy.   These arent too crazy to do.   Not like the hawse holes will be.  But you do have to be careful.  You need to carefully measure them inboard and outboard so they look like they line up.  You can actually use the deck planking templates because I have marked the inboard locations for all of the scuppers.
 
When I drill my scuppers I dont even try to drill them all the way through.   That adds unnecessary difficulty.   I drill shallow holes only about 1/16" deep or slightly more.   Inboard, I start with a small pilot hole with a small drill bit.   Then in this case, I used a #47 drill bit afterwards to make them larger.   Finally I used a round file to smooth out the hole’s insides.   I lightly sanded the inboard bulwarks over the scuppers with some 400 grit sandpaper to smooth out any fraying.  This will require some paint touch-up later when they are all done.  The scupper holes were made flush with the deck level or just a hair above.
 
I prefer to use a soft pencil to darken the inside of the holes.  I made sure to cover the entire inside surface of the scuppers including the back of the hole.   Then I touch up the red bulwark paint.  On this model I drilled the scuppers before I added the waterway.  I just wanted to try something new.  It worked out really well for me.  No chipping or fraying of the water way at all.  You can do it whichever way is more comfortable for you.
 
The picture below shows the holes drilled and darkened with the pencil.   They are nice and dark.  I touched up the red paint as well on the bulwarks afterwards.  You can see the waterway strip also prepared in advance and ready to be glued into position.
 

The waterway is a 3/64" x 3/64" strip of cedar.  I sanded one of the four corners of the strip down its entire length.  I used an Emory board or sanding stick.   Basically I made it triangular in profile.  Then I held it in position so I could mark the positions for the scuppers along its length.  I really tried to get these exactly where they should be located.  I used a round mini file to make the half round openings along the length of the waterway where the scuppers were marked out.  Once in position this really looked good.   I used the same soft pencil to darken the round notches I made along the waterway as well.   Below you can see how the scuppers inboard turned out.  I made the waterway in two pieces for the gun deck rather than use one long strip that spanned across the whole length.
 

I also prepared the waterway for the poop deck, port and starboard.   This was easy...no scuppers, LOL.   Just make the strip triangular.  Dont worry about trying to make it concave or anything fancy.   
 
Here is a photo.
 

Finally to the outboard side.  No difference here really.   I used those outboard templates we used way back when....remember those.   If you have to shift the template fore and aft a bit to line them up with the inboard scuppers you made on the opposite side of the deck/hull its no big deal.   But this template will give you a really good start and can be rested atop the wales.
 

 
I drilled with a small drill bit first and again made the holes larger using the #47 bit.   I cleaned them up a bit and darkened them with a soft pencil.  Once again...no need to drill all the way through and hope you meet the same scupper hole you drilled on the inboard side.  Fake it ...till you make it .....I always say.   I drilled part way through once again.   Make sure you really darken them inside the holes nicely and completely.
 

Dont add the waterway on the fcastle deck yet.   I think it best to drill the hawse holes first.   I will be doing that next me thinks.
 

Hello ☺️

Sometimes the rubber cement leaves a residue on my wood. I may be using a different brand than Druxey. Lately I have been using those white glue sticks that young kids use. It goes on purple and dries clear in a few seconds. It also peels off cleanly.
 
I love the spindle sander for curves but I found that using a higher grit makes a cleaner and more accurate cut without causing the divits the 80-120 grit paper can cause. 

Perplexing, is it not Mark? I would certainly trust Ed's research but I I have read this is precisely the case. As I recall, each beam progressing aft has a slightly smaller round up as they approach the transom. I don't recall if this is the case in the fore section. I'm sure others can provide a more definitive answer with source references. I suppose one could place 5" round up beams aft then fay the others to a batten connected to the 8 1/2" beam fore. But I suspect you'll develop a table of offsets and do this more scientifically.  Gary...Druxey...?

I used to feel the same way about painting only with wood, Alexandr. But, in looking at many Navy Board models, I see some were done precisely as Mark is doing and the overall effect is very pleasing. Getting the right shade and texture of red seems problematic but Mark and Druxey have it just right. As you say, it is a matter of taste, and mine has changed a bit recently.

Sometimes the rubber cement leaves a residue on my wood. I may be using a different brand than Druxey. Lately I have been using those white glue sticks that young kids use. It goes on purple and dries clear in a few seconds. It also peels off cleanly.
 
I love the spindle sander for curves but I found that using a higher grit makes a cleaner and more accurate cut without causing the divits the 80-120 grit paper can cause. 

As a small update, I am beginning discussions with the absolutely perfect fit for the business. If and when it goes through, I think you will all agree with me. Of course, this process takes several months.
 
Nic

Thanks Asat . Yes , She is a Maine Coon , but a small one - only 5,5 kg 🙂.
I,ve already finished coppering of the whole hull and fixed the rudder . 

I'm afraid you're in a world of hurt Dindsy. I would treat one of the lift lines with a 50% white glue/water solution and see what it looks like after it dries. But I'm not optimistic. Being a cross-section, re-rigging it should not take much time at all and I would use the opportunity to upgrade the blocks and rigging line to Syren Models products. Your second effort will look far better and you'll be much happier in the long term.
 
Now, take a scissors and cut the main shrouds across the middle and you're committed to ship modelling excellence!

Only the swivel guns to go to finish Chapter 11. A quick update on what was the long process of adding the chain plates to fix the deadeyes to the channels. Basically a lot of holes to drill in a straight, level, and angled lines.

Another exercise in patience, planning. placing, and adjusting each of the three mast sections of channels and deadeyes

I am a big fan of the acrylic strops and chainplates - so much easier and such a much better look than fighting through their metal equivalents. I’m not going back.

I also had a new opportunity to make many eyelets along the hull following the plans. At this point the twist around the drill bit in the vice and the cut, snip, fit is mindless, easy work. Maybe someday I’ll count how many I’ve made for Winchelsea - or maybe not.

The model is transformed with these additions - looking completely like a ship at this point (don’t look at the stem, that’s Chapter 12). It’s really quite something. I'm going to take some better photos after I finish Chpt 11. I still haven't glued in the remaining guns, but that's coming up soon.
 
Thanks for stopping by - some swivel guns are up next.

Hi
 
After several weeks of work the outer lining of the hull of the frigate is completed.
The starboard side is completely lined, and the port side releases the openings made in the structure to be able to show the interior
Some photos show the realization and, at the end, some details of the simplified nail of the boards .
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Adrián

Sometimes the rubber cement leaves a residue on my wood. I may be using a different brand than Druxey. Lately I have been using those white glue sticks that young kids use. It goes on purple and dries clear in a few seconds. It also peels off cleanly.
 
I love the spindle sander for curves but I found that using a higher grit makes a cleaner and more accurate cut without causing the divits the 80-120 grit paper can cause. 

I'm afraid you're in a world of hurt Dindsy. I would treat one of the lift lines with a 50% white glue/water solution and see what it looks like after it dries. But I'm not optimistic. Being a cross-section, re-rigging it should not take much time at all and I would use the opportunity to upgrade the blocks and rigging line to Syren Models products. Your second effort will look far better and you'll be much happier in the long term.
 
Now, take a scissors and cut the main shrouds across the middle and you're committed to ship modelling excellence!

I'm afraid you're in a world of hurt Dindsy. I would treat one of the lift lines with a 50% white glue/water solution and see what it looks like after it dries. But I'm not optimistic. Being a cross-section, re-rigging it should not take much time at all and I would use the opportunity to upgrade the blocks and rigging line to Syren Models products. Your second effort will look far better and you'll be much happier in the long term.
 
Now, take a scissors and cut the main shrouds across the middle and you're committed to ship modelling excellence!

Sometimes the rubber cement leaves a residue on my wood. I may be using a different brand than Druxey. Lately I have been using those white glue sticks that young kids use. It goes on purple and dries clear in a few seconds. It also peels off cleanly.
 
I love the spindle sander for curves but I found that using a higher grit makes a cleaner and more accurate cut without causing the divits the 80-120 grit paper can cause. 

While I was away, I had taken a bunch of milled cedar strips of various widths.  All were 3/64" thick.   I spent my evenings planking the decks which was quite nice and relaxing.  My wife was also enjoying some wine from the local vineyards while working on her own relaxing projects while overlooking the Long Island Sound.
 
Not much to say about how to plank the decks as the gun deck and poop were planked like any other deck.  Just taper the strips following the provided deck plans.   You must cut around the hatches and coamings as usual.   These were the most difficult planks to cut but not awful.   It just takes careful planning and cutting.
 
These were the last two planks which I waiting to return home so I could photograph them before gluing them in permanently.
 

Here are some photos of the completed deck planking.   The forecastle deck planks were cut from a 3/64" sheet because of their curvature as I mentioned.  But the gun deck and poop were planked with strips.  The curves are not that severe and it was a lot easier this way.   Note the gentle curve of the planks.
 

NOW...how much deck planking should be added.   Its really just a personal decision.  What do like more....or less.
 
I have an extra strake on the gun deck where  the cannon will be located.  I dont particularly like when the carriage trucks are hanging over the edge if there were too few strakes.   But maybe you are OK with that.  This planking scheme matches the plans I provided but you guys can change to suit your sensibilities.  Looking at the photos you can see why I omitted all of the deck knees (hanging and lodging).  You can try really hard but would ever be able to see even a whisper of them.  It just doesnt make sense to add them with this planking layout.  I hope you will agree.
 


Next up will be something I have been blissfully ignoring.  Its a bit terrifying for any ship modeler. I will be drilling the scupper holes and hawse holes.   Usually I drill the scuppers after adding the waterway.  But this usually chips and frays the waterway.   So I am going to try something new.  I will drill the scuppers first and then add the waterway strip.   I will mark and file the waterway strip so it will hopefully not get damaged.  We shall see.
 
The hawse holes are a different story.  Those will require some really careful planning.
 
But waiting any longer to do these will only make them more terrifying. 
 
Chuck
 

Sometimes the rubber cement leaves a residue on my wood. I may be using a different brand than Druxey. Lately I have been using those white glue sticks that young kids use. It goes on purple and dries clear in a few seconds. It also peels off cleanly.
 
I love the spindle sander for curves but I found that using a higher grit makes a cleaner and more accurate cut without causing the divits the 80-120 grit paper can cause. 

Sometimes the rubber cement leaves a residue on my wood. I may be using a different brand than Druxey. Lately I have been using those white glue sticks that young kids use. It goes on purple and dries clear in a few seconds. It also peels off cleanly.
 
I love the spindle sander for curves but I found that using a higher grit makes a cleaner and more accurate cut without causing the divits the 80-120 grit paper can cause. 

It’s your first model, cut all that junk line off and re-rig it with better line and blocks from Syren or Ropes of scale. The practice and second run through will be good experience. There’s no hope for what’s on there now.