dvm27

Thanks for looking in again John, Druxey, Adeline, Ben, Allan and Pat.
 
 
Right on the waterline Ben. The way it's been drawn in TFFM leads me to believe it's rebated, though it isn't mentioned in the text.
 
Hi all,
 
There are three Bands around the upper section of the rudder to strengthen it. These were hammered on hot on the real ship and not bolted, although I don't know how they would have done that with the lower one - the rudder is thinner in section at that point than it is at the top. I silver soldered the two top ones and just epoxied the lower one.
 
All the pintles, bands and spectacle plate have been epoxied in place - they will also be "bolted". The epoxy makes a bit of a mess, especially when you make a slip with the toothpick. It's easily cut off after 15 minutes drying time - a lot better than trying to wipe it off when wet ... that makes an even bigger mess   .
 
The hole for the Tiller has also been cut in - this hole tapers from 9" square to 7" square at the aft end - quite a trick to get right. I made the taper on the tiller as well to ensure it will fit later on.
 





 
  Danny

......
 
 
            rekon54

You can't beat drill bit city for selection and price. They all dome on a 1/8" shank which works particularly well on rotary tools.
 
https://www.drillbitcity.com/Default.asp

Folks here are a couple of photo's of the building of the hanging magazine. I didn't do to much detail on it but did enjoy building it. Gary

John Thanks.
 
Back at the block Factory, A long time ago I purchased a small board  of Lemonwood or Degame to make some wagon type wheels, the blanks were cut but the wheels never got made. I re-cut the small curved sections to use for blocks. the wood is quite hard and takes a fine polish it is similar in texture to Boxwood but a little darker. I wont be using this many double blocks, after shaping the profile I will cut a number of them in half to make single blocks like the ones on the right.
 

 
and a metric rule
 

 
The big blocks are Lemonwood the small ones in the front are Boxwood
 
I also worked on a maple one with a metal frame
 

 
The pin is 3/32 in diameter
 

 
the new block attached with yesterday's shackle
 

 

 
 
Michael
 
 

Hi,
 
the time for update here. Further work with chennels and chainplates, completting of them. I hope the images are explanable.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The guns are not fixed now.
 
Alex
 

Thanks Ben and Grant.
 
I added the boom sheet and temporarily secured it to the horse.  In fact, all of the lines are only temporarily tacked down with dilute white glue so that I can make any necessary adjustments after the line has stretched.  The gaff has been made and installed;  it is not glued to the mast.  The parrel beads in the kit did not blacken well so I will touch them up with black paint later.  The rigging line feels like a polyester product and even with stretching and wetting it still has memory.  For this reason I wetted the lines with dilute white glue to give it some stiffness without the shine that CA imparts.  Sorry for the oddball picture but I wanted to highlight the lines against a dark background.
 

 
On to the shrouds.  I tried to make the chainplates using the black wire provided in the kit.  I decided that I would prefer soldering the metal rather than use CA.  Unfortunately the enclosed wire did not accept the Tix so I used 26g brass wire instead.  The picture shows the sequence of making the deadeye chainplate.  There is also a chainplate for the backstay which has two small loops.  These are attached to the hull with the provided nails.
 

 

 
The shrouds were made with the starboard side first and then the port.  They are seized with thread.  Three seizings were placed at the deadeye per the drawing in the instructions.  However, Chuck only has two on his prototype.  I am not happy with the seizings because the thread was too thick.  I am not home this week.  Once I get back I might remove the seizings and replace them with fly-tying thread, which is about a third the diameter of the provided material.  The lanyards are not tied off yet to allow the thread to stretch.
 

 

This book is a Master Class in ship modelling. Few of us will ever attain the level of skill shown by M. Frolich but we can certainly drool over the beautiful photos of his models. Whether used to improve one's skill-set or simply purchased as a coffee table book you won't be disappointed.

Thanks for the terrific photos, Chuck. So we may post any of the Plans and Photos pictures so long as we credit them? This is good news as their library is very extensive.
 
Greg

Thanks for the link, Robert. There are some great photos of your work there. Just beautiful!
 
I am fortunate to live near the United States Naval Academy Museum with their large prisoner of war bone model collection. Here's a link to a video showing the collection narrated by the museum curator Don Preul.
 
http://www.usna.edu/100Objects/Objects/object-03.php?iframe=true&width=770&height=580

Hello friends,
 
mounting of the gun ports.
 
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  22

She's a lovely Swan, Bob. I look forward to your building photos.
 
Greg

Thank you Janos. I'll use a 5-cent piece on my next lot of pics   .
 
Capstan Bars
 
They'll be about the LAST things fitted but I thought I may as well make the Capstan Bars while I'm in that mode. There are 15 bars in total (5 on the lower capstan and 10 on the upper) but I'm only going to fit 6 or 7 to the top one and none on the lower - I want to show off the square holes in the drumhead on the starboard side.
 
The bars are 8 feet long. They have a 3 1/2" square tenon on the inner end to fit the hole in the drumhead. Then they step up to a short 3 3/4" section, and round off and taper to 2 5/8" at the outer ends.
 
I started by cutting the square bars on the table saw. Then I made a little jig from a pine block to sand the inner step all to the same length and depth - this seems like "overkill" but it made the job very easy :
 




 
Then I made another jig to turn the other end into an octagon. This also started the "rounding" in the right position, and also gave me a good grip on the bars whilst sanding :
 


 
The one on the right is still square, the middle one has been "octagoned", and the left one is finished :
 
 

 
I finished off the tapering and rounding by holding the bars flat on my sanding sheet board and using a sanding stick. Here are the first four :
 

 
  Danny

Thanks for the link, Robert. There are some great photos of your work there. Just beautiful!
 
I am fortunate to live near the United States Naval Academy Museum with their large prisoner of war bone model collection. Here's a link to a video showing the collection narrated by the museum curator Don Preul.
 
http://www.usna.edu/100Objects/Objects/object-03.php?iframe=true&width=770&height=580

I'm not a huge fan of furled sails in static models but only because they usually appear over-scale and bulky. However, it can be done, and to good effect. For example see http://www.shipmodels.com.ua/eng/models/elite/le_rivoli/index.htm and the beautiful work of Dr. Mike. I've read somewhere that decreasing the canvas (model sail) size by 25% helps keep proportions correct.

Thanks for the compliments.
 
Now to the rest of the doors:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Nico

Hello dear friends,
I appreciate your nice comments and thank you very much for your nice words.
Today I will explain the process for preparing grids for the skylights.
Therefore please note the following pictures.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks John and Mark .
 
Next comes the Trundle Head - this is made from four pieces of timber. Two are edge-glued to make the 1'9" wide piece needed. I made sure the grain was running in different directions to make it stand out as two actual pieces later. The other two were treated in similar fashion.
 
NOTE: I didn't really need to do this for the trundlehead, but I thought it would be a good practice for the Upper Capstan's Drumhead which is a lot more visible - turns out it was, I made a setup error that would have stood out later on.
 
Then I turned up a "dummy shaft" which could be chucked in the 3-jaw chuck. I spot-glued the head to it for the machining work.
 
The square cuts for the Capstan Bars were milled in next, using the dividing head again. Not possessing a mill cutter of the required diameter (0.73mm) I used a 0.38" slitting saw which needed setting up twice for each cut :
 


 
Then I chucked both parts of the Capstan Barrel complete with Whelps and Chocks back into the lathe and trimmed down all the chocks. I also used a Boring Bar to take out the inside diameter of the trundle head where it fits to the barrel. I should have done this earlier while it was still in the lathe, but no biggie - it was still glued to the dummy shaft. I separated the head from the dummy shaft with Isopropyl :
 


 
The lower chocks in each section have a Concave outer edge. I filed these in with a half-round needle file :
 

 
  Danny

Sherry, I cut another today but it is not going to work for me this time, I made a couple of errors doing the rest of the work.
 
Bob,thanks.
 
Russ, thanks for the comment regarding the shape of the bowsprit, Quite a few of the cutters and smacks that I have seen on the web seem to follow this basic design.
 
John thanks for looking in.
 
As I mentioned above I did some more cutting today, but before I get to it I worked on the Gammon Iron I fabricated it from a couple of pieces the ring came from an old bronze plumbing fitting,
 

 
I cut off the end with a hacksaw then turned and parted off the ring.
 
Next I pulled a strip out of the strip tray and laid out the hole positions with a felt pen.
 

 
Soldering was a bit cranky I had to pickle it and rework the solder.
 

 
Then the time consuming clean up with the usual assortment of files, wet and dry paper, steel wool.
 

 
Then it was a fairly straightforward wrap of some soft rope made from embroidery floss which makes a nice soft rope.
 

 

 
After the gammon iron I began working on the cap for the end of the bowsprit, another 20 minutes of cutting with the jewelers saw (same blade)from the previous cutting, I am always amazed at how well these blades stand up to use.
 

 
I was pleased with the cutting but then had to chuck it up in the lathe to open the hole up to 11/16 because I did not have an end mill that size. this allowed me to put in the taper as well.
 

 
Then I cleaned it up with files getting the ring even and drilling the holes, then it came to filing the tabs and the first pair I filed the angle backwards to the taper. I was a bit peeved, but though I could still save the day by rounding them and was going to rotate the ring so that they could act as the bowsprit shrouds lugs.
 
Started to file the bob say and jib tabs and well you guessed it I went and filed them backwards as well. This was the straw that .....
 
Went back to the brass bins and found a section of 3/4 inch brass pipe which was thick enough to accept the taper both inside and out. So forward to the next bowsprit end cap, this also gave me the opportunity to increase the size because apart from the fabrication shortcomings the first attempt was a little small overall.
 

 
a piece of 1/16 by 3/8 strip was drilled for the tabs this where it is at so far. I will finish cutting them out tomorrow, Ive had enough fretting today already.
 
Michael

This book is a Master Class in ship modelling. Few of us will ever attain the level of skill shown by M. Frolich but we can certainly drool over the beautiful photos of his models. Whether used to improve one's skill-set or simply purchased as a coffee table book you won't be disappointed.

Capstans
 
The start of the Capstans. There are two of them - the Lower Capstan on the Upper Deck, and the Upper Capstan on the Quarterdeck above it. They are joined together between decks to work as one. I'm using English Box for all the components - some of them are quite small and require a very good timber.
 
The Lower Capstan Barrel has 10 flats milled into it to take 5 Whelps, and the Upper Capstan has 12 flats and 6 whelps. I decided to turn and mill both together for ease of setting up. They will be separated between decks for installation purposes.
 
I used the Dividing Attachment on my Sherline mill to cut the flats :
 

 

 
Then I turned down the centre portion :
 

 

 
I've also started making the Whelps. The ones for the Upper and Lower Capstans are of different sizes, there is also a corresponding difference in angles. I'm also using the Mill to cut the angles, with the aid of the Tilting Table :
 

 
  Danny

Not on this list, Dan! But we will commiserate with you.

Thank you for your comments, Danny and Sjors.
To Danny:  No problem to explain how I create this or that. I usually take some pics (sometimes videos) from the process - it is better to understand the tutorial and description.
 
After two days of careful work i have finished the capstan - it is made according to plans from the book Anatomy of Royal Caroline.

I used wood (nut), card and self-adhesive foils (with wooden and gilded look - for the star on the top). The nail heads are created with thick colour ( gun metal + flat black - mini acrylic paint from Tamiya). For application I use a metal tip from micro-pencil (0,3mm).
 



 

Hi, everyone,
 
I finished making the gratings (sanding to profile yet to go...). The mill method worked fine, allowing me to make the gratings to exact size. Since the battens and ledges remain constant sizes in width, the only way to fit a specified opening exactly is to vary the spaces between in both directions. The mill allowed this kind of accuracy, and the gundeck drawing shows the new gratings fitting exactly. Sanding the bottom to reveal the spaces between ledges is fairly straightforward; I used sandpaper glued to plywood, to keep it all flat. The first photo shows what happens when the sanding gets close to finish--thin strips peel away. 
 
These are pretty accurately to size now, following Steel. My earlier ones were much out of scale; don't know how it happened, but .....
 
The last photo shows my new jig for  repeatedly cutting thin strips (the battens, in this case) from the left side of the saw. Much safer and cleaner cuts. Many thanks to Michael Mott who helped me refine this idea. You can see the discussion in the Tools Forum, under micro jig.
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark
 
 

Yeah John, I'm pretty happy with the amount of work I did this weekend - especially with how detailed all this is .
 
Hi all,
 
The last couple of things for the Pumps - two Bungs, complete with handles, and the Latch that secures the Cistern Hood :
 

 

 
  Danny