dvm27

I can find no three jaw chucks for Atlas sold by Sherline. But on a hobby thread they have a discussion on this same topic with lots of possibilities. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/please-help-select-a-new-3-jaw-chuck-for-10-atlas-lathe.520445/. Is there something wrong with the current three jaw chuck on your lathe? Maybe it just needs a bit of TLC?

For those inexperienced in using the lathe there is a series for beginners by You Tuber Blondihacks https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLY67-4BrEae9Ad91LPRIhcLJM9fO-HJyN. While her series is concerned with metal work on the hobby lathe the techniques are applicable to wood as well. As machinists usually work to closer tolerances than woodworkers mastering these skills will probably improve your results in wood.

Hi Everybody,
my display case is still not finished, but I managed to make some progress with the stand. I saw, that many displays have the model parallel to the keel, my model will be sitting parallel to the waterline. There will be two collumns, one at the bow, one at the stern wich have a different length to get the balance.
Here are some pictures:

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
Matthias

Congratulations on this milestone Chuck. I read through the first chapter instructions and they are phenomenal.  Between your laser cut materials and step-by-step instructions there's no reason why the average ship model builder cannot build a lovely plank on frame ship model. It may not be 100% as nice as yours but it will be a far cry better than anything else out there in the market.
 
 

For those inexperienced in using the lathe there is a series for beginners by You Tuber Blondihacks https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLY67-4BrEae9Ad91LPRIhcLJM9fO-HJyN. While her series is concerned with metal work on the hobby lathe the techniques are applicable to wood as well. As machinists usually work to closer tolerances than woodworkers mastering these skills will probably improve your results in wood.

For those inexperienced in using the lathe there is a series for beginners by You Tuber Blondihacks https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLY67-4BrEae9Ad91LPRIhcLJM9fO-HJyN. While her series is concerned with metal work on the hobby lathe the techniques are applicable to wood as well. As machinists usually work to closer tolerances than woodworkers mastering these skills will probably improve your results in wood.

For those inexperienced in using the lathe there is a series for beginners by You Tuber Blondihacks https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLY67-4BrEae9Ad91LPRIhcLJM9fO-HJyN. While her series is concerned with metal work on the hobby lathe the techniques are applicable to wood as well. As machinists usually work to closer tolerances than woodworkers mastering these skills will probably improve your results in wood.

For those inexperienced in using the lathe there is a series for beginners by You Tuber Blondihacks https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLY67-4BrEae9Ad91LPRIhcLJM9fO-HJyN. While her series is concerned with metal work on the hobby lathe the techniques are applicable to wood as well. As machinists usually work to closer tolerances than woodworkers mastering these skills will probably improve your results in wood.

Decks glued down, Titebond on the beams and CA on the notches to get immediate hold down as it's hard to clamp.
the frame notches and waterways are now sealed and primed ready for rubbing down, this way the sheerplate which stands proud will have a nice clean crisp corner.
This is in case I don't do the cement filled waterway and leave it exposed.

The counter glued on now to.

For those inexperienced in using the lathe there is a series for beginners by You Tuber Blondihacks https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLY67-4BrEae9Ad91LPRIhcLJM9fO-HJyN. While her series is concerned with metal work on the hobby lathe the techniques are applicable to wood as well. As machinists usually work to closer tolerances than woodworkers mastering these skills will probably improve your results in wood.

Well, for better or worse I pulled the trigger and bought a mini lathe.  I know lots of you have sherline lathes and they are a great lathe.  But for the money and what I believe I want to do, and the features that were offered and options available, I bought a new Taig lathe.
I took a long hard look at both machines and I picked the best one I thought would fit for what I wanted to do with a lathe.  I actually bought all the accessories that I wanted with the lathe and still came in under what a base model sherline lathe is with the same or close to the same options.  So, I guess money had something to do with the purchase as well.
 
I'm happy with the purchase, wife is good with the purchase (you know, always have to keep the banker happy), and I'll do a review on it after I get some turning under my belt.
 
Picture below only shows what is included in the package I bought.  The options I bought not shown in picture.
 

For those of you who follow Leo and team rebuilding the Tally Ho, I'm sure you've already seen this week's episode but for those of you who do not, you're missing a real treat. This weeks episode deals with the rigging, it's well worth the watch to see how things are done in real life. 
 
 I wish there was a serving mallet for models.  
 
 
 Below is to the website for the folks responsible for making Tally Ho's rigging, It's an interesting tour. 
 
 http://briontoss.com

Just watch the preparation of the standing rigging for the Tally Ho which some of you may find very instructive. 
 
 

Hi, Davits:
 
 

Post One Hundred and Twenty-seven
Channels
 The channels each comprise laminations of three parts. The core centre part is rounded on the edges and extends slightly beyond the upper and lower pieces to create a decorative profile.

1748a
In practice the edges of the channels were open to receive the deadeye strops, and a cover strip was nailed over the top, decorative or otherwise.
Quite a straightforward business prepping the channels; largely making sure you have the correct cores and matching outer pieces, carefully applied to each side of the core, and aligned with the slots and holes.

1740a
The Main channels require more bevelling on the aft side to account for the greater tumblehome.

1739a
The Fore channels require bevelling and a little fettlin’ to match the round of the bow and take a little more time to fit.

3192
The Mizen and stools for the main and Mizen backstays require little attention and there are location holes in the hull for accurate fitting.

3194

3189
A well-designed set-up by Chris for what can otherwise be a tricky exercise.
 

1733a
Whilst in the area of the Poop I added a lead sheathing to the Gallery roof, this will tone down to a dull grey over time.

1731a

1744a

1745a
Before I permanently fix the channels I think I will return to the deck and inner bulwark fittings.
At this point the channels will just present another incumbrance to be careful about when working inboard.
 
 
B.E.
07/01/2024
 
 
 
 

I do love my Sherline lathe with it's extended bed (17" between centers). Not sure if the smaller version with it's 8" distance between centers would be worth the additional cost. However the hole through the headstock can accommodate a no.1 morse taper so I often use this to turn longer stock. I guess you need to figure out what scale you would like to work in. While the Sherline is essentially a metal workers lathe I use it for turning wood all the time. Their T-rest works just fine and is not expensive.

Looking down the hull from the bow ... how sensuous - she's big and beautiful !

While here I should update
Tween deck dry fitted forward, deciding If I need to plank the seen parts.
The photos always make it look bigger than it is, remember the frames are only 4mm 8 ply, note the tweezes and masking tape roll.


 
Counter construction, as you can see the developed shape of the bulwark is pretty accurate, just taped in


Stern rabbet

 

I use Rhino which is used to design ships and my background is designing and doing structural modelling for ships and some naval vessels.
I also use it to design and concept furniture.
I use it as well in my day job now in TV Film and games modelling. so yes I have a lot of experience in a professional capacity.

I us a  tool in Rhino to develop non developable plates and shapes that are not able to be "unrolled"  you may know them as ruled surfaces, but Rhino has tools called squish and smash which do it and allow for stretch and compression.
its good enough to use in ship plates productions so....

https://docs.mcneel.com/rhino/5/help/en-us/commands/squish.htm
If you look at my SS Tamahine build which is assembled and made the exact same way you can see the fits and the developed inverted stern parts fitted.
 
Below is Tamahine note stern wrap part on bench, the curved part.
 

Fitted

On the TEV Wahine which is my personal project which is 4.3m long the plates are also developed with the same tool
See below, the most advanced structure I will ever do .



 
 

Frame complete
The remaining work is to glue the Tween decks into place which are already inside the hull, and can be moved around to expose beams for gluing, which is a relief.
Just the decks to glue, sheer plates to fix and bilge stringer to attach, the stem and sternpost will now be braced plumb and a few midship frames braced level before the decks go on.
Note the frames are pre bevelled by gluing on patterns and filing, the ends of the fore frames can be seen where it runs out due to being too thin, these will be done when the hull getsa quick sand prior to planking.
The Tween decks get held down with 38mm sticks as the Tween deck is parallel to the maindeck



The counter perimeter is here seen clearly, and note how it is higher than the deck, this is to align it to the white moulding around the hull as it is higher than the deck, one of the things models normally cheat on for ease of build, even Longridge made this shortcut but it alters the design and look of the ship so this is as close to the ships structure as possible.

The mainstay lugs, these get pinned to the carlings to take the strain of the Main stays.

The Saloon being assemble inside the counter frames to keep its shape.
 
 

Completion
 
Fini!  Well, except for a stern lantern.  The britannia metal one in the kit was about as sad as the quarter gallery parts, so had to be replaced.  Found one the right style and size from Caldercraft and it's winging it's way from the UK so it'll get fitted (along with some cat head lions) when it gets here. 
 
I have not made this a detailed log so I've missed a lot of specific comments on this kit, so I'll try to summarize here.  All in all an enjoyable kit to build for me.  I'd say there were a number of design issues and plan mismatches (none too big) and some part quality (metal) issues that made it necessary to bash and scratch a little bit.  There were a few places where you'd expect a recently designed kit to have some parts laser cut at least a starter but expected you to make from stock.  Not a big deal, but if you expect a lot of hand holding and perfect detail in instructions you could get a bit frustrated.  Not a beginner project!   One nice thing is that where some parts might be a challenge to finish there were ample spares laser cut, and plenty of extra strip stock left over.  I strayed a bit in places like not doing the hammock netting (I hate those things).  Maybe not as accurate, at least not according to plan, but it pleases me.  I also didn't do the ship's boat, but the kit includes one.  It has it hanging from the stern davits, but I didn't like the look of it there, obscuring the stern works.
 
I'm going to take a short breather and build a plastic model of my Miata that I scored at a club raffle, then plow back in with the Shipways Mayflower.  That will be a different sort of challenge as I will rig it, but then I'll escape back into hull model world with the USF Confederacy.
 
Thanks all for the looks, likes, and comments!

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is a contemporary model with MODERN rigging:
 
https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66339
 
 
No contemporary painting shows these spreaders.

Ciao
 
 

Lol! I was up until 12:30 last night just finishing the knee, I’m tying to get  little more substantial progress before I make an update.
Here’s a teaser and it’s not the same one from  earlier this year, this is the AYC production version.
JJ
 

I have a small update on Portland, I’ve been designing a QG for 3D print, this is just an initial test to check rigidity of the structure and if it’s even possible.


The QG will fit onto existing wood structure and should require a slight bit of finesse to attach to the hull. 

The basic structure and shape of the QG will be printed, once painted the moldings, columns, windows and carvings will all be in wood, so the finished QG should be very convincing. 
 
The model requires some revision but the basic idea looks promising so far.

Thank you to @Gabek for his expertise and print assistance.
 
JJ