dvm27

Everything you ever wanted to know about this (and other) lathe(s): http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlas/index.html
 
But beware, it may make you drool, when you see what kind of attachments etc. once were available.

Hello Greg,
You're right, of course, making the rigging elements takes longer.
I hope that I will soon be able to present the new mizzen topgallant yard ready and finished.

At the moment I'm still researching how to carry out the tyes for the royal yards. I originally thought that these would be done in the same way as the topgallant yards, but obviously these are designed to be simpler.
 

We've all been there Johann! At least, hopefully, you can reuse all the fittings you've made. I'll wager these took a lot longer than fabricating the yard.

We've all been there Johann! At least, hopefully, you can reuse all the fittings you've made. I'll wager these took a lot longer than fabricating the yard.

We've all been there Johann! At least, hopefully, you can reuse all the fittings you've made. I'll wager these took a lot longer than fabricating the yard.

We've all been there Johann! At least, hopefully, you can reuse all the fittings you've made. I'll wager these took a lot longer than fabricating the yard.

I struggled with silver soldering for some time until I found a system that works for me virtually every time. First off, the mini torch I was using did not generate enough heat for silver soldering. I have since had excellent success with the Blazer Torch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017Z8KD3S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details. More importantly I switched to silver solder paste from Euro Tools. It comes as soft, medium and hard so you can solder adjacent pieces. Otherwise I use the medium https://beaducation.com/products/silver-solder-paste-medium. I also use Battens Flux on the joint prior to soldering but I'm not sure if you need it with the paste. You only need a speck of the solder on the joint and you have to move the torch the second it flashes. At any rate if you're having unsuccessful solder joints more than 10% of the time maybe give this a try. Also, as Druxey has pointed out, it's best to place the joint on a linear plane.

The swivel gun mounts:
 







 

I use 6-32 threaded rod and 6/32 Acorn nut or knurled knob. The rod comes in 12" lengths so it can be trimmed to a custom size. I thread the acorn nut onto one end. You will drill two hoes in the building board that correspond with the holes in the keel. make them slightly larger than the keel holes to allow for adjustments on the building board. Do not tap these holes. Now insert the threaded rods with the acorn nut on the end through a washer, then building board and thread into the keel. continue until the acorn nut snugs against the washer. Mark the exit of the threaded rod where atop the heel and cut flush. I don't glue mine into place as it us helpful to remove the hull sometimes (especially when fairing). I do glue the acorn nut onto the threaded rod once the final position of the threaded rod is determined (using Loctite).

Terrific start. If you haven't downloaded the instructions from our website http://chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://admiraltymodels.homestead.com/Echo_cross-section_framing_instructions.pdf
please do so. They're free but not sure how long the website will remain there.

I struggled with silver soldering for some time until I found a system that works for me virtually every time. First off, the mini torch I was using did not generate enough heat for silver soldering. I have since had excellent success with the Blazer Torch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017Z8KD3S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details. More importantly I switched to silver solder paste from Euro Tools. It comes as soft, medium and hard so you can solder adjacent pieces. Otherwise I use the medium https://beaducation.com/products/silver-solder-paste-medium. I also use Battens Flux on the joint prior to soldering but I'm not sure if you need it with the paste. You only need a speck of the solder on the joint and you have to move the torch the second it flashes. At any rate if you're having unsuccessful solder joints more than 10% of the time maybe give this a try. Also, as Druxey has pointed out, it's best to place the joint on a linear plane.

I struggled with silver soldering for some time until I found a system that works for me virtually every time. First off, the mini torch I was using did not generate enough heat for silver soldering. I have since had excellent success with the Blazer Torch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017Z8KD3S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details. More importantly I switched to silver solder paste from Euro Tools. It comes as soft, medium and hard so you can solder adjacent pieces. Otherwise I use the medium https://beaducation.com/products/silver-solder-paste-medium. I also use Battens Flux on the joint prior to soldering but I'm not sure if you need it with the paste. You only need a speck of the solder on the joint and you have to move the torch the second it flashes. At any rate if you're having unsuccessful solder joints more than 10% of the time maybe give this a try. Also, as Druxey has pointed out, it's best to place the joint on a linear plane.

So over lunch today I walked up to the local hardware store (located dangerously close to my house) and picked up a tap & die set to resolve the mounting question asked above - thanks again Dave and VTHokiEE! It took about 1 minute to tap the mounting holes I drilled out yesterday and I was very relieved to find that I hadn't drilled the holes out too wide for the 6-32 tap. A small step, but this lightened up a huge area of ignorance for me in terms of this aspect of modelling. Here are some photos, just to liven things up a bit, though they may not be of much intrinsic interest. The second shot is of the tiny puncture made by the awl - hard to get focus on this.....
hamilton

I considered buying a torch like that when I first picked up soldering supplies.  I decided, though, to see how easily a conventional soldering iron would work with the Solder-It, silver solder paste that I purchased.  There is a generous ratio of flux to colloidal silver solder, with this product, so I found that the smallest amounts make nice joins with a quick touch to the iron tip.  Like anything else, it was a process of course-correction to figure out how to use these products correctly.
 
I do know that the technically correct place to make the joints is along the straight parts, however, at this scale I was having a ton of difficulty getting my wire ends to meet nicely; I was either too long, resulting in a bowed straight, or too short, necessitating an excess solder-fill.  I also made the first batch of preventer plates too long, and I wasn't using enough solder paste on the back side to bolster the join enough for bending/shaping.
 
Dan Pariser suggested that he likes to cut meeting ends on a long bias so that they overlap like a scarf joint; more surface area produces a stronger joint.  As usually happens with this kind of thing, doing something like snipping wire ends hundreds and hundreds of times has a way of sharpening your skills and discernment for where precisely to make a cut.  At this point, I could fairly easily make those wire ends meet exactly where they need to.
 
I do appreciate the correctness of what you guys are suggesting, but the method I have arrived at is working for me in this scale, and producing the clean results that are a higher priority to me than rigorous accuracy of manufacture.  In larger scales, I absolutely would give the "correct" way a go again.

I use 6-32 threaded rod and 6/32 Acorn nut or knurled knob. The rod comes in 12" lengths so it can be trimmed to a custom size. I thread the acorn nut onto one end. You will drill two hoes in the building board that correspond with the holes in the keel. make them slightly larger than the keel holes to allow for adjustments on the building board. Do not tap these holes. Now insert the threaded rods with the acorn nut on the end through a washer, then building board and thread into the keel. continue until the acorn nut snugs against the washer. Mark the exit of the threaded rod where atop the heel and cut flush. I don't glue mine into place as it us helpful to remove the hull sometimes (especially when fairing). I do glue the acorn nut onto the threaded rod once the final position of the threaded rod is determined (using Loctite).

I struggled with silver soldering for some time until I found a system that works for me virtually every time. First off, the mini torch I was using did not generate enough heat for silver soldering. I have since had excellent success with the Blazer Torch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017Z8KD3S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details. More importantly I switched to silver solder paste from Euro Tools. It comes as soft, medium and hard so you can solder adjacent pieces. Otherwise I use the medium https://beaducation.com/products/silver-solder-paste-medium. I also use Battens Flux on the joint prior to soldering but I'm not sure if you need it with the paste. You only need a speck of the solder on the joint and you have to move the torch the second it flashes. At any rate if you're having unsuccessful solder joints more than 10% of the time maybe give this a try. Also, as Druxey has pointed out, it's best to place the joint on a linear plane.

I struggled with silver soldering for some time until I found a system that works for me virtually every time. First off, the mini torch I was using did not generate enough heat for silver soldering. I have since had excellent success with the Blazer Torch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017Z8KD3S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details. More importantly I switched to silver solder paste from Euro Tools. It comes as soft, medium and hard so you can solder adjacent pieces. Otherwise I use the medium https://beaducation.com/products/silver-solder-paste-medium. I also use Battens Flux on the joint prior to soldering but I'm not sure if you need it with the paste. You only need a speck of the solder on the joint and you have to move the torch the second it flashes. At any rate if you're having unsuccessful solder joints more than 10% of the time maybe give this a try. Also, as Druxey has pointed out, it's best to place the joint on a linear plane.

I use 6-32 threaded rod and 6/32 Acorn nut or knurled knob. The rod comes in 12" lengths so it can be trimmed to a custom size. I thread the acorn nut onto one end. You will drill two hoes in the building board that correspond with the holes in the keel. make them slightly larger than the keel holes to allow for adjustments on the building board. Do not tap these holes. Now insert the threaded rods with the acorn nut on the end through a washer, then building board and thread into the keel. continue until the acorn nut snugs against the washer. Mark the exit of the threaded rod where atop the heel and cut flush. I don't glue mine into place as it us helpful to remove the hull sometimes (especially when fairing). I do glue the acorn nut onto the threaded rod once the final position of the threaded rod is determined (using Loctite).

I struggled with silver soldering for some time until I found a system that works for me virtually every time. First off, the mini torch I was using did not generate enough heat for silver soldering. I have since had excellent success with the Blazer Torch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017Z8KD3S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details. More importantly I switched to silver solder paste from Euro Tools. It comes as soft, medium and hard so you can solder adjacent pieces. Otherwise I use the medium https://beaducation.com/products/silver-solder-paste-medium. I also use Battens Flux on the joint prior to soldering but I'm not sure if you need it with the paste. You only need a speck of the solder on the joint and you have to move the torch the second it flashes. At any rate if you're having unsuccessful solder joints more than 10% of the time maybe give this a try. Also, as Druxey has pointed out, it's best to place the joint on a linear plane.

Terrific start. If you haven't downloaded the instructions from our website http://chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://admiraltymodels.homestead.com/Echo_cross-section_framing_instructions.pdf
please do so. They're free but not sure how long the website will remain there.

I struggled with silver soldering for some time until I found a system that works for me virtually every time. First off, the mini torch I was using did not generate enough heat for silver soldering. I have since had excellent success with the Blazer Torch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017Z8KD3S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details. More importantly I switched to silver solder paste from Euro Tools. It comes as soft, medium and hard so you can solder adjacent pieces. Otherwise I use the medium https://beaducation.com/products/silver-solder-paste-medium. I also use Battens Flux on the joint prior to soldering but I'm not sure if you need it with the paste. You only need a speck of the solder on the joint and you have to move the torch the second it flashes. At any rate if you're having unsuccessful solder joints more than 10% of the time maybe give this a try. Also, as Druxey has pointed out, it's best to place the joint on a linear plane.

I use 6-32 threaded rod and 6/32 Acorn nut or knurled knob. The rod comes in 12" lengths so it can be trimmed to a custom size. I thread the acorn nut onto one end. You will drill two hoes in the building board that correspond with the holes in the keel. make them slightly larger than the keel holes to allow for adjustments on the building board. Do not tap these holes. Now insert the threaded rods with the acorn nut on the end through a washer, then building board and thread into the keel. continue until the acorn nut snugs against the washer. Mark the exit of the threaded rod where atop the heel and cut flush. I don't glue mine into place as it us helpful to remove the hull sometimes (especially when fairing). I do glue the acorn nut onto the threaded rod once the final position of the threaded rod is determined (using Loctite).

I have at last got around to taking the completion photo’s which will form part of the Photo build record book that I’m currently putting together.

4395
4361A

4392

4364

4365

4391

4390

4396

4369

4405

4395

2161A

2145a

4397

2162a

2164a

4380

4379

4388

4494a
I am currently faffing around with a clinker built 18’ cutter, and ‘Indy’ is yet to be enclosed in her case, so the story has not quite ended.
 
Then there’s the 26’ Launch, still on my mind.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 

I use 6-32 threaded rod and 6/32 Acorn nut or knurled knob. The rod comes in 12" lengths so it can be trimmed to a custom size. I thread the acorn nut onto one end. You will drill two hoes in the building board that correspond with the holes in the keel. make them slightly larger than the keel holes to allow for adjustments on the building board. Do not tap these holes. Now insert the threaded rods with the acorn nut on the end through a washer, then building board and thread into the keel. continue until the acorn nut snugs against the washer. Mark the exit of the threaded rod where atop the heel and cut flush. I don't glue mine into place as it us helpful to remove the hull sometimes (especially when fairing). I do glue the acorn nut onto the threaded rod once the final position of the threaded rod is determined (using Loctite).

Terrific start. If you haven't downloaded the instructions from our website http://chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://admiraltymodels.homestead.com/Echo_cross-section_framing_instructions.pdf
please do so. They're free but not sure how long the website will remain there.