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bogeygolpher

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  1. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from Canute in Painting a Waterline   
    For future reference.
     
    I have successfully used Chartpak tape 1/16 wide for water lines on past builds. You can get the tape in art or office supply stores as well as on-line in different colors and widths. You can also use automotive pin stripe tape available in most major auto parts stores.  
     
    After applying the tape I covered it with clear matte acrylic poly to protect it and insure it would not peel off in the future.
     
    Just to clarify, I did not paint a water line.  The tape becomes the waterline.
  2. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from slow2cool in Painting a Waterline   
    For future reference.
     
    I have successfully used Chartpak tape 1/16 wide for water lines on past builds. You can get the tape in art or office supply stores as well as on-line in different colors and widths. You can also use automotive pin stripe tape available in most major auto parts stores.  
     
    After applying the tape I covered it with clear matte acrylic poly to protect it and insure it would not peel off in the future.
     
    Just to clarify, I did not paint a water line.  The tape becomes the waterline.
  3. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from tasmanian in Squaring off a round dowel   
    One Suggestion.
     
    1. Find a piece of square stock the correct size.
    2. Cut the mast where the square section should be.
    3. Drill holes about 1/2" deep into the center of both the square stock and the mast.  
    4. Insert a tight fitting dowel into the holes in both the square stock and the mast and glue it all together.
     
    I never tried it, but it seems as if it would work.
     
    I agree with you, squaring the round dowel can be a challenge to keep it uniform and straight.
  4. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from Canute in Squaring off a round dowel   
    One Suggestion.
     
    1. Find a piece of square stock the correct size.
    2. Cut the mast where the square section should be.
    3. Drill holes about 1/2" deep into the center of both the square stock and the mast.  
    4. Insert a tight fitting dowel into the holes in both the square stock and the mast and glue it all together.
     
    I never tried it, but it seems as if it would work.
     
    I agree with you, squaring the round dowel can be a challenge to keep it uniform and straight.
  5. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from joske in Glue   
    I prefer to use Aleene's Original Tacky Glue. I find it has less moisture content than my Elmer's Wood Glue.
    I also use limited amounts of Super glue when necessary.
     
    No matter what glue you are using, experience has shown me that less is more, use the glue sparingly.
  6. Like
    bogeygolpher reacted to Doreltomin in Are Gunports square? - modifed by mod   
    Hello Gary, the answer to your question is, as always "depends"
     
    Depends on epoch and more important, depends on nationality.
     
    One thing is certain, the gunports were cut after the deck beams were placed in place and the deck was laid, so that the lower and upper sill were always put parallel to the deck. Now there is a wide debate even among the members of this forum whether the other two sides are put square to the upper and lower or were put parallel to the frames. Some say the first, some say the second. In the first case the lids would be rectangles with square corners, in the next they would be slightly parallelograms in shape. One thing is certain: square (which is, with the height equal to the width) they never were. 
     
    Tell us which nationality and which epoch your ship is, then we may come out with a more detailed answer!
  7. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from HIPEXEC in Whats the best wood filler to use to fill in gaps in planking?   
    I agree with both replies.  I personally use Elmers wood filler as well as DAP spackling compound, I have also used Bondo putty from the automotive store.
    One note on using filler you make with PVA and sawdust.  If you intend to stain the area you will not get very good results. When dried, the PVA will prevent the stain from being absorbed into the wood fibers resulting in a blotchy finish. However, you said you do not intend to do that so there should be no problems.
  8. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from dgbot in Glue   
    I prefer to use Aleene's Original Tacky Glue. I find it has less moisture content than my Elmer's Wood Glue.
    I also use limited amounts of Super glue when necessary.
     
    No matter what glue you are using, experience has shown me that less is more, use the glue sparingly.
  9. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from Stevescan in Glue   
    I prefer to use Aleene's Original Tacky Glue. I find it has less moisture content than my Elmer's Wood Glue.
    I also use limited amounts of Super glue when necessary.
     
    No matter what glue you are using, experience has shown me that less is more, use the glue sparingly.
  10. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from justsayrow in Glue   
    I prefer to use Aleene's Original Tacky Glue. I find it has less moisture content than my Elmer's Wood Glue.
    I also use limited amounts of Super glue when necessary.
     
    No matter what glue you are using, experience has shown me that less is more, use the glue sparingly.
  11. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from edmay in Waxing the threads   
    My wife gave me this and I have been using it for years. She had it in her sewing kit.
     
    Just run the line through one of the slots.  Available in the sewing section. About $1
     

     
  12. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from flying_dutchman2 in Truly awful question (thread from kits)   
    I believe I have found a solution to this problem.  
     
    I carefully took the mass of line and formed it into a large circle trying not to pull tight on any loose pieces.  I placed that wad of line loosely over a toilet paper tube and determined which end was on the outside of the wad.  I carefully unwound the line, trying not to tug, from the toilet paper roll while my wife wrapped it tightly around another piece of cardboard.
     
    It took only a few minutes to get the line onto the piece of cardboard, you can use any type of spool large enough to hold the line.  Now I can unwind it as needed without any snarls or knots.
  13. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Truly awful question (thread from kits)   
    I believe I have found a solution to this problem.  
     
    I carefully took the mass of line and formed it into a large circle trying not to pull tight on any loose pieces.  I placed that wad of line loosely over a toilet paper tube and determined which end was on the outside of the wad.  I carefully unwound the line, trying not to tug, from the toilet paper roll while my wife wrapped it tightly around another piece of cardboard.
     
    It took only a few minutes to get the line onto the piece of cardboard, you can use any type of spool large enough to hold the line.  Now I can unwind it as needed without any snarls or knots.
  14. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from mtaylor in Whats the best wood filler to use to fill in gaps in planking?   
    I agree with both replies.  I personally use Elmers wood filler as well as DAP spackling compound, I have also used Bondo putty from the automotive store.
    One note on using filler you make with PVA and sawdust.  If you intend to stain the area you will not get very good results. When dried, the PVA will prevent the stain from being absorbed into the wood fibers resulting in a blotchy finish. However, you said you do not intend to do that so there should be no problems.
  15. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from lehmann in Rope Diameter-USS Constitution   
    You might be interested in this link that provides the specs for a lot of the materials purchased for the restoration of the Constitution in 1993 - 1995.
     
    The rope specs are quite a ways down the page but there none the less.  Theses are obviously real sizes not scaled.  I'm not sure it is specific enough for your effort.
     
    http://www.maritime.org/conf/conf-otton-mat.htm
     
    You might also want to look at this which might be closer to what you are looking for 
     
    http://www.digitalhemp.com/eecdrom/HTML/EMP/02/ECH02_18.HTM
  16. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from druxey in Truly awful question (thread from kits)   
    I believe I have found a solution to this problem.  
     
    I carefully took the mass of line and formed it into a large circle trying not to pull tight on any loose pieces.  I placed that wad of line loosely over a toilet paper tube and determined which end was on the outside of the wad.  I carefully unwound the line, trying not to tug, from the toilet paper roll while my wife wrapped it tightly around another piece of cardboard.
     
    It took only a few minutes to get the line onto the piece of cardboard, you can use any type of spool large enough to hold the line.  Now I can unwind it as needed without any snarls or knots.
  17. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from JesseLee in Truly awful question (thread from kits)   
    I believe I have found a solution to this problem.  
     
    I carefully took the mass of line and formed it into a large circle trying not to pull tight on any loose pieces.  I placed that wad of line loosely over a toilet paper tube and determined which end was on the outside of the wad.  I carefully unwound the line, trying not to tug, from the toilet paper roll while my wife wrapped it tightly around another piece of cardboard.
     
    It took only a few minutes to get the line onto the piece of cardboard, you can use any type of spool large enough to hold the line.  Now I can unwind it as needed without any snarls or knots.
  18. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from mtaylor in Truly awful question (thread from kits)   
    I believe I have found a solution to this problem.  
     
    I carefully took the mass of line and formed it into a large circle trying not to pull tight on any loose pieces.  I placed that wad of line loosely over a toilet paper tube and determined which end was on the outside of the wad.  I carefully unwound the line, trying not to tug, from the toilet paper roll while my wife wrapped it tightly around another piece of cardboard.
     
    It took only a few minutes to get the line onto the piece of cardboard, you can use any type of spool large enough to hold the line.  Now I can unwind it as needed without any snarls or knots.
  19. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from GLakie in Truly awful question (thread from kits)   
    I believe I have found a solution to this problem.  
     
    I carefully took the mass of line and formed it into a large circle trying not to pull tight on any loose pieces.  I placed that wad of line loosely over a toilet paper tube and determined which end was on the outside of the wad.  I carefully unwound the line, trying not to tug, from the toilet paper roll while my wife wrapped it tightly around another piece of cardboard.
     
    It took only a few minutes to get the line onto the piece of cardboard, you can use any type of spool large enough to hold the line.  Now I can unwind it as needed without any snarls or knots.
  20. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from JDillon in Homemade waterline markers   
    This is about as cheap as you can get.  You can use it with the model upside down or right side up.
     
     
     

     
     
  21. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from WackoWolf in Diluting CA   
    It would seem that you could use acetone to thin CA.  I use acetone to remove excess CA as well as for getting it off of my fingers.
     
    I have never tried it, but have read that card/paper modelers use thinned CA to treat edges prior to sanding.
     
    After some further research I have found that using acetone will thin the CA but it will also decrease it's strength. 
    It is best to purchase manufactured thin CA in order to retain it's holding power.  Further, as has been suggested, if your CA becomes thick, add some fresh CA to thin it.
     
    I actually avoid using CA unless it is absolutely necessary and then I primarily use it in place of a clamp when I cannot get a clamp in place.
  22. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from Captain Slog in Real Battleship Portholes - Shiny Brass?   
    I agree with Antony 100%.
     
    Your battleship will not be very stealthy out in the ocean if you have lots of reflective surfaces.
  23. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from WackoWolf in White glue or contact glue for deck planking?   
    I use carpenters glue (PVA).  To keep the plank in place while the glue dries, I place a very small drop (about the size of a pin) of Super Glue (CA) on each end before placing the plank on the deck.  I then rub my electric plank bender over the plank a few times to heat up the plank and accelerate the drying of the PVA.  It's the same technique I use for planking the hull.
  24. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from WackoWolf in Real Battleship Portholes - Shiny Brass?   
    I agree with Antony 100%.
     
    Your battleship will not be very stealthy out in the ocean if you have lots of reflective surfaces.
  25. Like
    bogeygolpher got a reaction from rudybob in marking water line   
    Try this for an inexpensive marker.
     
     

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