captainbob

Robbyn,
 
We model builders are a creative people. We are like the writer who says, “I should have said it this way.”  Or the artist that says, “The color is wrong in that area.”  For me when others see my boats they say, “WOW” and “That’s amazing.” But when I look at my boats I see the mistakes and where I could have done better.  Creative people never create perfection in their own eyes.  I have a cross stitch sign over my work bench to remind me of this.  It says:
 
                 “Nobody is purfect.” 
 
Bob

Sorry, but I did it again.  I got so wrapped up in the building that I forgot to take pictures.  The hull is finished except for the rub rails, the prop and the rudder.  The paint is a primer, I still need to decide on the color.
 

 

 

 
Yesterday I found a picture of the Toka YT 149, one of the Woban class, being lifted out of the water which gives me a great shot of the prop and rudder.  Guess that’s next.
 

 
Bob

Sorry, but I did it again.  I got so wrapped up in the building that I forgot to take pictures.  The hull is finished except for the rub rails, the prop and the rudder.  The paint is a primer, I still need to decide on the color.
 

 

 

 
Yesterday I found a picture of the Toka YT 149, one of the Woban class, being lifted out of the water which gives me a great shot of the prop and rudder.  Guess that’s next.
 

 
Bob

Just spread it over the area with a flat object like a small sheet of the cardboard from the back of a notepad.   Allow to dry and sand away.  Use sanding blocks and sanding sticks to get a smoother surface without all the slow spots.  

Thank you all for hitting the like button, it's good to know you like what I have done!

 

John and Bob, thanks for stopping buy and your kind words.

 

I have been plugging along at my O 19 submarine and many chores around the house but I can at least show a few more pics of the Friendship sloop.  I made the cabin roof from my home-build plywood.  The pics show that I also made two skylights and the entry hatch slide rails.  Some explanation will be added below the pics.  As mentioned in a previous post, I glued-up the veneer for the plywood on a formed piece of hard foam.  It worked like a charm and fit just nice.  At this stage of the game it was ready to be primed.

 



What is not seen are additional support beams for the cabin roof.  The entry hatch slides in grooves I carved in the rails.  I made 4 brass sliders bend 90 degrees and fastened to the sides of the hatch.  There was enough thickness to the plywood where I could use regular sewing pins as nails in addition to CA cement.  I also made and glued trim slats to the edges of the roof, except for the front edge.  

 



Another view from starboard looking forward.  

 



A view looking aft from starboard.  The bowsprit is already made and fitted but the attaching hardware must still be made..  It's just resting now, you can see it laying on the build dock.  There is also some hardware laying on the build dock I was playing with.

 



Port side view looking aft.

 

Cheers,

Congratulations on a job well done.  
 
Bob

Simply Beautiful.
 
Bob

Surgery is no fun.  Boat building is.  Glad it went well and you’re back.
 
Bob

Keith, John, Thanks.  With encouragement like yours I know I’ll make it.
 
The first thing was to decide how to build this boat.   Solid hull, I don’t consider myself a good enough carver.  Plank on frame, why make frames when no one will see them.  I finally settled on plank on bulkhead.  So it was back to CAD.   Draw every fifth station to show the deck chamber and a slot to fit onto the new keel drawing.  Cut them out of 1/16" plywood and glue it all together with the deck.  Now it's on to the planking.
 
Bob
 

 

 

Keith, John, Thanks.  With encouragement like yours I know I’ll make it.
 
The first thing was to decide how to build this boat.   Solid hull, I don’t consider myself a good enough carver.  Plank on frame, why make frames when no one will see them.  I finally settled on plank on bulkhead.  So it was back to CAD.   Draw every fifth station to show the deck chamber and a slot to fit onto the new keel drawing.  Cut them out of 1/16" plywood and glue it all together with the deck.  Now it's on to the planking.
 
Bob
 

 

 

Keith, John, Thanks.  With encouragement like yours I know I’ll make it.
 
The first thing was to decide how to build this boat.   Solid hull, I don’t consider myself a good enough carver.  Plank on frame, why make frames when no one will see them.  I finally settled on plank on bulkhead.  So it was back to CAD.   Draw every fifth station to show the deck chamber and a slot to fit onto the new keel drawing.  Cut them out of 1/16" plywood and glue it all together with the deck.  Now it's on to the planking.
 
Bob
 

 

 

That's what makes scratch building from pictures from pictures so much fun.  First you have to figure out what those blurry lines represent and then figure out how to make it.  The Vinal Haven is coming along beautifully.  I'm glad I caught up with you.
 
Bob

It's always a challange to figure out how to build a scratch build and you've done a great job. 
 
Bob

Hi.
And The circuit just to clarify.
 
 

 
Regards Antony.

Hi.
Having seen a few people on this site put LED's into there models I thought it would be nice to have a flickering candle lamp for the period ship.
Its cost is low and the effect is real.
The brightness and the duration of the flickering are randon on each candle.
I found this on the Arduino page and its is freeware IE no lisence to use.
I used surface mount LED's as they are very small and easy to put into almost any scale of model.
Step by Step instructions below.
 
Equipment needed :-
 1  Arduino nano chip. Source  Ebay  261232492487
Very thin wire (Copper will hold its shape after bending). Insulated or un insulated will do.
6  SMT 1206 White LED’s . Source  Ebay   121077374673 or you could use 3mm LED’s (much bigger).
6  Resisters 820 Ohms.  Grey, Red, Brown.
1  Battery holder for 4 AAA batteries.
4  Batteries AAA  Rechargeable.
1  Simple On/Off switch.
 
1 orange shopping bag. For the colour.
Computer with USB.
Total cost £18
 
Step 1 Download the Arduino  software from :- http://www.arduino.cc/  Second Tab click the Download.
A little way down the page click on Windows Installer and it will install the Environment.
Now click the Getting started to the Right of the Windows Installer.
Agree with the download (varies with Windows version) and click to install.
It will ask if you want to install the drivers Yes install.
Next click the Chip you are using ”Arduino Nano”. There are two types check the type you have.
 
Run the Arduino software and use the information on selecting the Arduino Nano.
A small box area will appear. Copy and paste the Code below into the white area.
Next plug in the Arduino Nano into the USB and the computer will find the Arduino Nano.
Now under File in the Arduino Environment select File in the Top left corner move down to Upload and click.
The Arduino should flicker when uploading. And the Arduino Environment will display any messages relating to the uploading. You may need to change the COM port to get a successful upload.
That’s the programming Done.
Step 2.
The Arduino Nano Chip Has no Headers soldered in place.  This makes it easy for us to connect the LED and Power.
Refer to picture.
Connect the + on the battery box to the Switch
Connect the + from the switch to Pin No 27
Connect the Ground from the battery Box to Pin No 29
Now solder a resister into Pin’s numbers. 6.8.9.12.13. and 14.
Next you solder the SMT LED’s to the Wire.
You can test each one as you complete the soldering by connecting the Anode to the 5 volt power supply. And the cathode to the Unconnected en of a resister.
With the battery on the connected LED should flicker.
Repeat the same for all 6 LED’s.
Next we tear off strips of the Orange bag and wrap it around the LED. Do not buy Orange LED as the effect is not the same.
Mount the LED inside lanterns around the ship. Careful planning will hide all the wires.
The Anode of each resister can be connected to the same wire. Common Power.
The LED’s and wire can be built into the model as it’s rare for a Led to fail.
The Arduino Nano and the Battery box can be hidden in the base.
 
Code Below this line. ******************************************************
 
/*http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php/topic,7115.0.html
 * randomly flickering LEDs
 */
 
int ledPin[] = {
  3,5, 6, 9, 10, 11};              // pwm pins only
int ledState[6];                 // last state of each led
long randNumber;
 
void setup() {
 
    pinMode(ledPin[0], OUTPUT);   // Just tells the Arduino that this is a output
    pinMode(ledPin[1], OUTPUT);
    pinMode(ledPin[2], OUTPUT);
    pinMode(ledPin[3], OUTPUT);
    pinMode(ledPin[4], OUTPUT);
    pinMode(ledPin[5], OUTPUT);
 
  randomSeed(analogRead(0));     // seed the random generator with noise from unused pin
    ledState[0] = random(20, 201);
    ledState[1] = random(20, 201);
    ledState[2] = random(20, 201);
    ledState[3] = random(20, 201);
    ledState[4] = random(20, 201);
    ledState[5] = random(20, 201);
}
 
void loop(){

    analogWrite(ledPin, ledState);     // set the pwm value of that pin determined previously
    randNumber = random(-70, 71);            // generate new random number and add that to the current value-40,41
    ledState += randNumber;               // that range can be tweaked to change the intensity of the flickering
    if (ledState > 200) {                 // clamp the limits of the pwm values so it remains within
      ledState = 200;                     // a pleasing range as well as the pwm range
    }
    if (ledState < 10) {
      ledState = 10;
    }
  }
  delay(100);    // the delay between changes
}
 

 
 
Any questions ..PLease ASK.
 
Regards Antony.

AWESOME!!!!!   she looks super Tom........you've really done some fine work there!  really nice lines and curvature.  oh crap!  now I have a tooth ache from all this eye candy  .............where's the advil     I hope your happy with your results......you deserve to be!

In this episode we have progressed a little further.  I got to the point of setting the boat in primer.  I used a good indoor/outdoor primer I still had on the shelf from another project.
I also made the helm and the bedding.  I used thin sheets of Styrofoam for the mattresses, an old dishtowel for the blankets and tissue paper for the sheets.  
 
Here are  few pics of the sloop.
 

The helm, still in the rough. The diameter is 45 mm, the spokes are toothpicks, the spoke handles are epoxy wood filler and the rims are file folder paper.  The hub is a modified wooden bead.  The finished helm will be shown in a later issue.
 

The primed hull.  I stuck the helm on temporarily and made and installed the forecastle and stern deck hatch covers.
 

Looking aft with the bunks dressed up.  I pulled the starboard bunk out ready to climb in for a nap.  The table top on that side is folded down get access.  Oh yes, I also made the pillows and the pillow cases.
 

Another view looking towards the stern.  I removed the helm to show the helm shaft and the stop.  There are two, one on each side of the steering box, that way the shaft is not going anywhere.
 

A close-up look of the aft part of the cabin with the head.  I finished the little locker in the head for the typical supplies one needs in that area.
 
Cheers, 

That must be a ship, au naturel!

It’s like the little train.  I think I can, I think I can, I think I can.  But Bob, you always work in 1:48 or larger.  I think I can, I think I can, I think I can.  I mean You just make it smaller don’t you?  I think I can, I think I can, I think I can.  Crossed fingers.  Fading into the distance.  I think I can, I think I can, I think I c…
 
 
Bob

Here is a shot of the nameless ship with the masts stepped. If you look closely you will see the hinges. I should not have drilled the holes in the deck for the toothpick rig I had in place, but I thought I needed the toothpicks back in that earlier step in the process when I was firing the sculpy Kraken arms. I can dowel up the holes or disguise them or leave them, they will be hard to see. The hinges are very small. Everything will be viewed through the wavy glass of the bottle and be difficult to see clearly so there is a lot of leeway regarding visible contrivances on the deck. I have added tops and topmasts of brass. I used 5 minute epoxy to glue the brass together but its not as good as solder. My soldering iron is a big ugly crude affair though and I cant do detail work with it. At this point in the rigging the masts flop around in any direction. 

The Admiral also states she likes the idea of a seporate rudder, she didn't like the looks of the rudder on the Endeavour that I finished last month.
 
Have to keep the Admiral happy!

Bob,
 
Thanks for stopping by....appreciate it! 
 
Tapered and stained the masts, installed the stack stay rigging cleats, davits and lifeboats. Took a while for the lifeboats as 'we' couldn't decide what color the canvas should be.    Also had to pick a color to represent water in the fire buckets.......
 
Still looking for Christmas lights. :P
 
Remaining items are searchlight, lights, masts and rigging, maybe a flag.....
 
Cheers,
 
Jim

Tom,
 
On a model like that, you probably need to be more concerned about the character of the model rather than exact scale.
 
John

Bob, looks like a fun project. I have to salute you for two reasons: your ability and facility with CAD programs, and your ability to work in 1:96! Kudos to you! This will be fun for us spectators.
 
Tom

WOW, I didn't expect the 1:96 scale either. That'll add an extra degree of difficulty to the build. Can't wait to see and smell the sawdust flying.
Kudos Cap'n'Bob