wefalck
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Everything posted by wefalck
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... well, for the moment we are under tight curfew until 11 May, but we expect that it will last longer, perhaps with some restrictions losened, as already in Germany. We have mentally braced ourselves that it will last into the summer. Perhaps this is just wishfull thinking, hoping that we can go on some sort of vacation by then. The fear is that we will see some rebound effect, once the curfew is loosened. We don't even go to the bakery, because the French bread cannot be put into quarantaine for the week before we touch anything brought into the house. Luckily, German-type bread is available from 'industrial' bakeries that lasts for several weeks - that is, if it not eaten before -
Someone showed them in a building log here a couple or so of years ago. Got immediately bag of 10 for something like 1€ directly from China and they are indeed very useful for various holding tasks.
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Anyone ever seen crosstrees formed in nitrocellulose?
wefalck replied to Sparkysparks's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
What do you mean by 'forming in nitrocellulose' ? Nitrocellulose is chemically alterated cellulose and its initial state is a kind of viscous liquid. You can use this for different purposes: - you can push it through thin nozzles and spin the resulting fibres into a thread - the first man-made thread - you can cast into films - celluloid, as used for cinematographic material or packaging, or artificial ivory (billard balls used to made from it) - you can dissolve it in solvents to make paints, varnishes, wood fillers and the likes So, perhaps you can explain a bit better, what you mean ? -
I have seen people turning out their first model as scatch-build project perfectly and some people will only build perhaps a couple of model in their life's spare time. The key point is patience and being self-critical. It is not easy to start a piece from 'scratch' again (I am sometimes guilty of not doing it ...), if it doesn't turn out right. The only reason to finish a model is our own impatience - otherwise you can take all your time to get it right ... In my opinion there are no 'beginner' models, there are only models for the more or less patient.
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The guy must have unlimited access to brass ...
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
wefalck replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
She really begins to look ship-shape ! Nice details ! At this time even warships looked elegant and not only utilitarian. As John, I noticed that these swan-neck ventilators look rather big. Is this per plan ? I also noticed this nice, polished mahagony 'bench' in the stern, but most ships I have seen tend to a grating there ... A third nicely executed detail I noticed are those brass tyres on the cannon trucks. We recently had a discussion in another forum, where people argued that metal tyres would mar the deck. I think I have seen metal tyres in French sources from the 1860s/1870s, but would have to check.- 993 replies
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- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
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Crisp job, as always ! It is a good idea to glue the brass frames onto the wooden frames first and then drill and insert the bars. I remember me struggling with alining the brass frames and bars before installing them on the wood ... It is often so important to do things in the 'right' sequence, which sometimes is not the obvious or the prototype one. The bars have to be distanced from the glass, otherwise they would not protect it - anything bouncing against the bars would push them into the glass and possibly break it.
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Some people like their model flat all over, but I too think that one can play with different sheens in order to give the parts more 'body' or to accentuate different type of materials or paints. Are tethered model planes still used and is there a supply market for them ? I remember that very fine steel wire-rope was made for that, but don't know whether it would be still available. I discovered fly-tying stuff some years ago as raw material for making my own micro-ropes, but didn't know that leaders were available down to 0.008" (which is 0.2 mm in my units), making it interesting for small-scale models too. Good information for a non-angler.
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Unless it will be visible, why would you want to remove an element that adds structural strength to the model at the risk of collatoral damage. It is also good to reflect on 'advise' given in books and other sources: why do they say so and would this advice be applicable to my circumstances ? We are not in the age of the Guilds anymore, so you can do what you think is best - of course considering the technological experience other may have.
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I gather this is a way of generating the rabbets without having to cut it. Should be an acceptable method for a model that is painted all over prototype fashion, but would not be good for ‚artisanal‘ style models in varnished wood.
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I do know the Japanese saws, of course, ...
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Sounds interesting, any image ?
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It also depends on what size of parts you are talking about ... I have a mitre-saw like the one in your link and it works very well. For finer cuts I use a blade for metal. There is clearance in the middle to allow the blade to cut through, but this leads to the tendency of the blade breaking through at the last 0.5 mm or so. You can avoid this by placing a triangular piece of wood into the clearance. Also, clamp your stock to the saw. Cleaning up will be required in any case. If you don't have a disk sander, you can make a sort of vertical hand sander from scrap wood. I think there are some examples here on the forum. Here is a picture of my micro-version to give you the idea:
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As carronades came onto the 'market' only around 1770, I gather these would be cannon and cannon at that time were normally mounted on wheeled carriages.
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15' Dinghy by Bedford - FINISHED - 1:1 scale
wefalck replied to Bedford's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I gather I am not much of a rower, but it makes perfect sense. Never seen such thing before. I suppose I would have turned to one of those clip-on mirrors some determined cyclists use. Nice 'keeping-with-the-style' solution. -
I am afraid, I only have one or two antiquarian books on the subject written in German. You will need to employ the services of Google ...
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Nothing looks more like the real thing than the real thing: love the charcoal in the stove
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dull number drill bits
wefalck replied to BETAQDAVE's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The watchmaker spade drills bits I mentioned above have zero rake. Watchmakers used to forge them from oil-hardening steel, file them to shape, harden them (watchmakers are very familiar with hardening small pieces), and then grind and hone them. They were meant for reciprocating Archimedes hand-drills and cut in both directions. However, they can also be used in electric drills and, of course, in the lathe. I have a small butterfly-shaped jig (the correct name escapes me for the moment) for honing drills on an Arkansas-stone. It holds the drill bits in a collet and presents it to the stone at the correct angle. I never actually used it, I must admit, but I think it could be used to grind the zero rake onto twist drills. -
Just a thought: we all love the challenge of mastering a new technology, but it may be worthwhile to ask oneself, if this technology then provides really the advantages sought for. Most ships have at maximum two anchors of the same type and size. So, unless you are building a series of models, it is rather unlikely that you will ever need that anchor in exactly that size again in your lifetime. In order to replicate it by casting, you have to fabricate a master first. Fabricating another copy of the master is probably less work than taking a mold and then casting it ... Incidentally, printing anchors could be one of the few useful application of filament-printers. The slightly rough surface of the prints might be well-suited to the quite rough forgings of the anchors.
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As on the left. If you make it as on the right, the metal with rise out of the vent before the mold is completely filled. Also the vents in the mold on the left should go up to the level of the funnel for the same reason.
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dull number drill bits
wefalck replied to BETAQDAVE's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
There is brass and there is brass. Some types of brass machine well, others tend to smear when turned or catch drills. There are special brass drills with a steeper helical angle and differently ground tips, but I don't think they are available as 'numbered' drills. Watchmakers traditionally use spade drills or 'Eureka'-drills. Spade drills one can make oneself. Eureka-drills have straight flutes and tend to be very expensive these days. Both types of drills don't catch easily, but due to the absence of helical flutes need to be lifted out frequently to clear out chips. -
The cutting edges of harpoons and of the long knives with which the whale was cut up were sharpend and restored by hammering them out on an anvil. Only then they would whetted with a stone.
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What's 'panko' ? Yep, very nice progress again. You might be able to cut out the cellophane tape step when transferring patterns by just ironing on the print-out. Simple copy-paper works, but there are also special thermo-transfer sheets with a shiny surface. I have used this to transfer patterns onto bakelite paper and brass shim with a normal ironing iron.
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😯 ... and I see a nice Deckel-clone tool grinder in the background. Would love to have one.
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There are some guys here into tool-making, but he beats us all. And, he must have somewhere a second life to spare, for all the time he spends on the tools
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