wefalck
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Everything posted by wefalck
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New ( I think.. ) Dremel
wefalck replied to Gregory's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I know several German colleagues, who have this micro-motor from China for which you don't have to ask a ten-year advance on your pocket-money: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-Dental-Equipment-MARATHON-N3-Micro-Motor-35Krpm-Handpiece-Polishing-Machine/302849066764?epid=1665442752&hash=item468336070c:m:mADTGf5-18Ti5Vu-ku3mGjA:rk:8:pf:0. They seem to be very pleased with it. They may not last as long as the professional units, but then we are probably not using it that extensively. There seem to be brushed and brushless varieties on the market. -
Connecting Staysails to the stays
wefalck replied to vmwilson1's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
That's why I simulate them with a blob of tinted PVA glue or acrylic paint ... in 1/128 scale they would be just over 0.5 mm in diameter. -
Excellent strategy. It's a pitty that it doesn't work for various other navies, where the 'eyebrow' was attached separately.
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Connecting Staysails to the stays
wefalck replied to vmwilson1's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
The distance of the grommets/hanks seems to depend on the type of cloth and the width of the panels. I believe European linen cloths were woven in narrower runs than US American cotton cloth. It seems that there are one to two grommets per panel in European sails. It also depends on the type of sail, larger and heavy-weather one requiring more grommets. I think at 1/128 scale hanks could be fashioned from springy bronze or molybdenum wire, which is available down to 0.03 mm diameter. The forged horseshoe-shaped hanks can be bent in a jig made from three pins (one larger diameter, the other two very thin) driven into a piece of hard wood. Wind the wire around and then clip off excess wire. Tie them to the (fake) grommets with 'small stuff' made from unravelling the smallest available (16/0) fly-tying yarn. As this can be very tiering to do on the model, I would perhaps do this before the sail goes up and set up the stay with the sail attached to - contrary to what is normally done. -
Just a bit more shop talk: you can control the speed of almost any machine at little cost by putting an electronic dimmer before it. Make sure it is sufficiently rated in terms of Amps. There are dimmers that simply can be plugged into the wall-socket and then take the machine's plug. Doesn't work, if your machine already has an electronic speed control (in case you wanted to extend its range downward).
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Connecting Staysails to the stays
wefalck replied to vmwilson1's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Yep, had the wooden hanks in front of my mental eyes, but forgot to mention them. One of the classical works on seamanship and/or rigging has a nice drawing that compares the different methods for attaching staysails. Checked Lees, Nares, Biddlecombe and Underhill, but couldn't find it 😐 Lees, almost contemporary to the BOUNTY, actually shows jibs and other staysails attached without any hanks. A continuous rope runs through the grommets and around the stay. I think the rope was fastened with an eye-splice to the top cringle. A variant of this, which I remember from the above drawing, is whereby the rope is attached to the grommets with small stuff, touching the outside of the bolt-rope. One would need to do further research as to whether this would be acceptable for BOUNTY, but otherwise this may be a simple method avoiding the fiddly work with hanks. -
Another way to make shackles
wefalck replied to vaddoc's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
These ceramic soldering plates are quite useful. I made bin with excentric parts to wedge pieces for soldering. The pins are made from aluminium wire/rod, so that do not stick to the parts. Mind you, the plates are very brittle. They can be obtained cheaply from the notorious bay. Many years ago I made very small shackles (>1.5 mm long) by flattening brass wire at the necessary distance with a flat punch (now I would have a press with stop for such things), marked/centred the holes to be drilled and drilled with the appropriate diameter. As the two flats were made before bending, the sizes come out quite uniform. The two rings then were shaped with the grinding bits in the hand-held drill. For pins I used suitable copper nails that were shortened and once put in place the free end was slightly squashed to simulate the securing pin and prevent the pin from slipping out. -
My PROXXON fret-saw does have a down-holder/saw-guide that one sets just above the material that is being sawn: The sawing-/filing-machines of old had a kind of articulated arm, that could be arranged so that the tip was near the saw-blade. That's ok for working on small pieces, but gets in your way, when working on large pieces of wood: This kind of thing could be retro-fitted to many fret-saws. In the above example, the holders just clamp to the table.
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Connecting Staysails to the stays
wefalck replied to vmwilson1's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I imitated grommets (at BOUNTY's time they wouldn't have been metal one, but 'sewn' ones) with blobs of coloured PVA glue on both side of the sail. After drying, this was pierced through with a needle to form the eyelet. The rings (if that is correct for BOUNTY and her time) were not actually fiddled through the rings (or sort of U-shaped gliders), but the sail was sewn through the grommets to the rings/gliders. Not difficult to do with fly-tying yarn of the appropriate size and colour. Here is an example from about 200 years later and in 1:90 scale: If you insist on metal grommets, there are hollow copper rivets from the realm of electronics that may be suitable. They would have to be turned down on the outside diameter to have the right proportions and shortened too. -
HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
wefalck replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Nice piece of engineering ! I think, if you Fashion some hexagonal ‚bolts‘ from little brass nails, that should fix the winch sufficiently down on the deck. i am surprised to see brass-winches already at that time. I thought they were only introduced in the 1880s.- 993 replies
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- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
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Don't forget the holes in the lower part for attaching the sail ... beautifully done - as always 👍 I mean this: From my Botter in 1:90 scale ... quite a bit smaller.
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Canute/mtaylor, thanks for posting/pinning. It seems though that one needs to sign up to the Web-site in the first post ... Personally, I prefer to use those bottle of paints pre-thinned for use in the air-brush. Much less hassle, albeit there is a somewhat narrower range of colours. However, as I am building only 19th century models, this has not really bothered me - no one knows exactly what colours on a particular ship looked like and normally colours would have been mixed on site/on board anyway I use these pre-thinned paints also for washes applied with the brush.
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This vividly shows the complexity of the rigging - must have been a challenge even for the crew, particularly in dark nights and when repairs were needed under harsh weather conditions ...
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- young america
- clipper
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Nice idea to shape the blades as a stack and then cutting them off with a slitting saw ! I contacted the German colleague by email re. the plans he used, but have not received a response yet ...
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Straightening thin brass wire
wefalck replied to vossy's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Stretching certainly does work well, but for short pieces the rolling method is easier and you don't loose the two ends that would be squashed by the pliers/vice. -
Straightening thin brass wire
wefalck replied to vossy's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
I roll short lengths of (soft) wire between to pieces of really flat hard wood, e.g. a piece of beech and my beech work-top. I recently also discovered molybdenum wire that comes in various diametres and is much more 'springy' than brass. It has become readily available from Chinese sources due to the fact that it is used to separate the glass from the LCD-screen in mobile-phone repair. Beware, it is very tough and can only be cut with very hard tools. -
Talking about wire for rigging, there is now also molybdenum wire easy to come by, down to 0.035 mm diameter - it is used by mobile-phone repair guys, who separate the glass from the LCD-screen with it. It can be fished cheaply in spools from China in the wellknown bay. It is virtually impossible to cut it by accident with scissor or a scalpel, it is just too tough - beware of dents in the tools.
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- john cudahy
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There has been a 1:100 scale (sorry metric ...) model of the GERMANIA by a German modeller: https://www.arbeitskreis-historischer-schiffbau.de/mitglieder/modelle/germania3/ It may be worthwhile asking on what drawings his model was built. Keith, if you want, I can contact him and ask. He lives in Spain and specialises in models of such yachts.
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I think something has been lost in translation here ... at least I don't understand what is meant. Calico is a kind of cotton - did you mean you polished it with a cotton rag ?
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Thanks a lot for those details ! And what voltage did you use ? And it goes without saying, of course, the parts are brilliant !
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Can you say something about the conditions for the galvano-plastic: e.g. voltage used, concentration of the copper sulfate (?) solution, what kind of anode you used etc. ?
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