wefalck

Nice work as usual 👍 BTW, the leeboards (zwaards) will also need a hole for attaching the hoisting rope that is belayed on one of the cleats inbord. I gather, the boier also had a hoisting tackle for the leeboards.

Just an idea for making the dimples more uniform: add a depth-stop in form of an adjustable collar to the ballpoint-pen. Somewhere on a railway modeling site I saw someone putting a second hole into the anvil at a distance required between two rivets. This acts as a register for making the distances between rivets equal. Thin copper, brass, or aluminum sheet can be used as well, but then I would make the anvil from brass or steel, with holes drilled of the rivet diameter. I myself actually purchased a watchmakers ‘staking’ or riveting tool for such work. It comes with various punches and anvils. Another option is a so-called jewelling tool that has an integrated depth-stop and is lever-operated, but one has to make one’s own punches and anvils.

The fundamental question is always, whether you go for an 'artisanal' look, or a 'realistic' one. In the former case you would have all artisanal freedom you like and can choose what pleases you aesthetically. In the latter case, you would need to try to confirm through research what might have been used on the prototype. I am inclined to think that white-wash was quite prevalent on lower decks, because it makes the cramped space look more airy and reflects the little available light better (as already mentioned above). In addition, it has some bactericide and fungicide effects due to its high pH-value (which was not know scientifically, of course, at the time, but practical experience showed that less nasty, smelly things were growing in nooks and corners).

Nice oar-locks !

Standard twist-drills are independent from machinery manufacturers. Standard twist-drills have a shaft diameter, which is the same as nominal drill diameter (for the British number drills this a bit more complicated). There are also twist-drills with thicker shaft, commonly 2.45 mm, 1.5 mm and 1.0 mm. The latter two one normally finds only in watchmakers' supply houses. All the other drills are found in many hobby stores or, indeed, on ebay in varying qualities. Shy away from carbide-drills, they are much less forgiving in a hand-drill than HSS ones.

I don’t quite understand the point of the question. One is likely to need all sizes of drills at some point. From a practical perspective I would think that one can drill holes in a range from 0.5 mm to about 3 mm (or 1/8” for you imperial guys). Drills commonly go down to 0.3 mm, but I would use them only in a stationary machine or with a pin-vise. There are even smaller drills, but these are really delicate (and expensive).

Another option would be to first spray-paint the respective area in yellow and then spray-paint a strip of plain water slide-transfers in green, cut this into triangles and apply these over the yellow area. Depending on how the respective board fits in constructionally, it may be a good idea to do the painting, by whatever method, before the board goes on - easier to mask off and, if something goes wrong, it is easier to repair off the model.

Not immediately on this Dremel machine, but on batteries from an environmental scientist: Ni-Cd are being gradually phased out due to environmental concerns over low collection and recycling rates. The cadmium is being dispersed in our environment, or worse in the environment of Third World countries, where many electric and electronic devices end their life in order to be 'recycled', when not fed into the proper recycling routes, but just binned. There, inter alia children burn the electrics and electronics waste in order to recover copper, gold and silver, but releasing nasty metals such as Cd and Hg into the environment and exposing themselves to these. Li-ion batteries are a step away from this problem, but certainly not the last answer. Research and industry are working on other solutions. As a rule, electric devices should not left to be charged unattended. Full stop. Physical chemistry tells you that during the charging process heat will be generated, which must be dissipated. If that is not possible for one or another reason, the device may heat up to ignition temperature. This applies to any kind of batteries. Li-ion batteries have a high charge per volume density and often are built into devices with poor heat dissipation capacity - which is the root cause of the problem. So there is no problem as such with Li-ion batteries, as long as you keep an eye on your device.

I think there were passages between the main deck-house and the after and fore deck-houses respectively. They seem to have served for embarking and disembarking passengers. The wood would have been laid onto the steel deck I would presume. The area around the main deck-house, inside the wheel-boxes, where the coaling scuttles are seems to have not been planked in wood.

Ilhan, without seeing the whole ship, your questions are not so easy to answer, particularly concerning the first two deck-views. Concerning the cross-sections, it appears to me that there is a steel deck all around that has a wooden deck on it (this was done for insulation purposes). There are angle-irons connecting the steel deck and the walls of the engine- and boiler-rooms as well as the hull plating. The wooden deck is off-set a bit along the hull to form a waterway. Usually such waterways were partly filled with cement to form a gutter - this prevents water from resting in the angles and causing corrosion.

Very nice nice work indeed in both, wood and leather ! I gather the leather would need to be greased in operation, to waterproof it and to reduce friction ? Actually, I don't seem to remember seeing yokes leathered, but rather the mast, or it had some battens added, where the yoke would be during operation.

Very nice piece of reverse-(or retro- ?)engineering 👍

Whether above or below deck depends on the size of the ship and the space available at the counter. In Europe most tugs I have seen seem to have the rudder quadrant above the deck under some gratings. In consequence the chain/rod would run along the waterways towards the steering house. Below are some pictures of RELIANT, when she was in the NMM in Greenwhich (apologies for the low quality, but the colour slides had so much degraded since 1979, when I took the pictures, that I had to convert them to b/w): For the most part the chain/rod runs in the open, supported by shallow stanchions. Only where people are crossing its way it runs in a steel pipe. Covering the chain/rod would only be necessary in fancy ships, where passengers would come into conflict with them. A simple box structure as in the drawings in a previous post would do the job. As the box would cover part of the waterways, the scuppers should be on the inside of the box in order to allow the drainage of the deck. Still it is not an ideal arrangement, as it could retain significant quantities of water on the deck.

@Chuck, what puzzled us is that the Gütermann Mara colour chart does not list colour No. 2899 for Mara at all.

@Messis, yes, that would be the principle. The lugs, however, would not have these rectangular ends, at least not in the direction of the block or rope. The pin does not need to have thread, a few ridges or incisions though would allow it to key-in better into the wood.

Polyester is not polyester. It comes in many different formulations and many seem to hold on quite well. I 'rigged' a couple of double-decker aiplane models with polyester thread as (once) used for mending ladies' tights when I was a teenager in the early 1970s. When I packed up the models at my parents' house in the mid 1980s, they were still ok without visible degradation in spite of being in the daylight all the time. I still have the same bobbins of polyester thread and use it from time to time, now some 45 years later, though it has been kept in a box, of course. It is always a bit of a dilemma with new materials. On the other hand, if no one tried new materials, we would still use wood and stone. Artists tried new materials, sometimes it worked out, and sometimes these are a conservator's nightmare. I am personally inclined to take a chance, if the result now is better than using 'traditional' or 'natural' materials. Natural plant- or animal-based materials in principle all are prone to degradation - there is almost invariable some form of life that can use these materials as a source of energy and will attack them, if the environmental conditions are right. Some man-made fibres are better in this respect, as there is no form of life that has the right biochemistry to break them down. Coming back to the Gütermann Mara thread: I looke a bit closer at the different sizes as per the technical and colour table linked above. It seems that size 220 is a 'single-fold' thread, i.e. it consist of a single thread of 135 dtex (which means that 10,000 metres of the thread weigh 135 g). Sizes 120 to 80 are two-fold threads of increasing thickness of the individual thread, sizes 70 to 15 are three-fold ones. The individual threads of the respective smallest two- and three-fold threads have nearly the same dtex number as Mara 220. This means that using Mara 220 to make a three-ply rope, you would arrive at same dtex number or weight as when using Mara 70 as a starting material. Assuming that polyester has a specific density of 1.35 g / cm^3, 10,000 metres of a thread of 135 dtex would give a volume of 100 cm^3. With this we can calculate the approximate diameter of the thread: sqrt (100 cm^3 / 1,000,000 cm / Pi) x 2 = 0.11 mm for Mara 220. For the other threads you can calculate this yourself.

@vaddoc, not really, I have been looking around, but have not really found anyone, who has the whole range of colours. However, I have been looking specifically for size 220 (10 tex), being the finest. Thicker ones may be easier to find. One On-Line-Shop that seems to have quite a range is: http://www.tokokurzwaren.de/Naehgarne/Industrie/Naehgarn-Guetermann-Mara-220er-5-000m.html Although the company is called Gütermann, one may need to search for the variants Guetermann or Gutermann as well. I may write to company after the holidays to ask them for retail sources. @Chuck, are you sure about the colour No. 2899 ? The colour-card quoted above (https://schlemming.de/download/Farbkarte Mara.pdf) does not list this one.

Messis, I may have mixed up something here, but I thought you were working on the late 19th century Imperial German yacht HOHENZOLLERN. Then one would have found bands with cast-on lugs around the mast, as autogeneous welding was not invented yet. I suppose you were rather referring to the SIR WINSTON CHURCHILL, which was built in 1966, at a time, when welding had become a commong practice in shipbuilding. It looks, as if she had steel pole-masts with eyes and similar items welded on. These 'eye-bolts' were not bolts, but lugs from bar, that were welded to the mast. I only found this colourful image of this kind of lug: There would be different ways to make them. You could, for instance, take a brass strip and hard-solder as many pins onto the narrow side as you need lugs. Then drill the hole for the shackle-bolt and saw off the invidual lugs. You now can shape the lug, while holding it in a pin-vise. With the pin you can secure your lug in the mast. Drill a tight hole an apply a small amount of CA to it. Depending on the degree of freedom of movement required, either the shackle bot or the shank would go through the eye.

Checked a couple of specialized shops in Berlin, but they did not stock Mara. One will have to order it on-line unfortunately.

Have a look at how EDT solved this on his YOUNG AMERICA. On steel mast one would have also metal reenforcement bands. They would have eyes that are formed from metal straps. The blocks were shackled to these eyes. I can look up some drawings in a contemporary textbook on this subject over the weekend.

Perhaps not enough, only had a eastern Frisian grandmother

I used ‚icing‘ with wallpaper glue for modeling braking waves for over 40 year now and had never any ant problem. But then I always lived in a European city environment with little wild-life

I didn‘t like the original, too much Art Noveau, which is kind of out of place in this context. Kortes‘ solution is much more appropriate, I think.

Whenever there is a force on a part, one should indeed go for a mechanical connection as well and not just glueing. It is always a good idea to look at how it is done on the prototype.

Personally I prefer a warm light in my workshop - as a hobby it should be a ’holistic’ relaxing activity and not production in an industrial setting. I know that some modellers, particularly the figure painters go to great lengths to create a day-light setting, but as noted above, in central and Northern Europe and North-America we tend to prefer warm light for our homes - in Southern Europe one sees more frequently ‚cold’ fluorescent bulbs and tubes in private homes. For historic reasons I am still ‚mixed’, warm fluorescent and LEDs, but will switch over to the latter as when the former need to be replaced. I replaced the incandescent spots in my architects’ lamps with LED spots, but am not satisfied with the light distribution. Eventually I may go for large LED globes. I am also considering a large 60 x 120 cm LED panel above the work-table. A rule of thumb seems to be to multiply the wattage of LEDs with 9 for cold and 8 for warm ones to estimate the equivalent incandescent bulb.