wefalck
-
Posts
6,213 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by wefalck
-
It's a skill accumulated over years and through practice. I got myself books that were intended for trainees in metal-working - and then practiced As you are in the USA, Griphos, you may want to get hold of this book, written by Joe Martin (deceased), the former owner of Sherline: https://www.sherline.com/product/5301-tabletop-machining/. Although obviously talking a lot about the use of the Sherline products, it is good as an introduction to machining. -
Incidentally, I wondered, why no-one mentioned this other brilliant model from the Ukraine, one of the SHTANDART:
-
Another way to make shackles
wefalck replied to vaddoc's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
One question and one comment: - why do you make the horse-shoe shaped ? In general, they seem to be U-shaped, which mechanically also makes more sense, considering the direction of strain on them. - the brass tube seems to be a bit thin-walled. Again, considering stresses, the outer diameter of these rings should be about twice the diameter of the bolt, which in turn has about the same diameter as the body of the shackle. -
I gather these yachts are relatively well documented by photographs. Wish this was the case for more mundane ships as well ... Talking about this: is there a place, where one could find pictures of German ships and harbours that were taken by Russian photographers during such visits ? I gather, there were several of them, before WWI.
-
The bridge is the Levensauer Hochbrücke (High Bridge at Levensau) a bit north of Kiel. On the right-hand side there was a garden café in later years, where we used to go when visiting my grandparents in Kiel. You could nicely watch the passing ships from there. Since the opening of the Canal it was a popular spot to photograph passing ships. The Kiel maritime photographer family Renard has been doing this for some hundred years. Post WWII they lived next door to my grandparents. The bridge was modernised in 1954, when the towers were removed. In 1984 a parallel new road-bridge was built and this year they begin with the construction of a replacement, which will allow taller ships to pass throught he canal.
-
As to constructing the bulwark, that is always an issue, if you don't have raised quarter-decks or poops or something to attach it to. One solution would be to make it from brass or aluminium - prototype fashion, and to have a recess in the hull planking, so that you can attach it there. The minitaturist Bob Wilson drives counter-sunk brass screws into a recess in his bread-and-butter constructions and then solders the bulwarks to it. Some putty and sanding blends everything together. You may need to make some false frames to give the bulwark the right shape.
-
But I would then have the tendency to pack more details into it, which counteracts that ...
-
Was there a particular reason to use this rather reddish wood ? And: how were the blocks actually made ?
-
HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
wefalck replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Ship-shape and Bristol-fashion, Pat 👍 I like those bollards/bitts with the lips to keep the chain from wedging itself. Made a couple of those a few months ago and wonder, how you did them ? Those compressors behind the capstan look a bit strange to me. They look more like the chain-stoppers that are usually found just behind the hawse-hole - you have one on her port side. These compressors are normally found above the chain-locker, to prevent the chain from slipping out, and have a horizontal lever the squeezes the chain against the pipe leading down into the locker. The lever is operated with a small tackle. Is this a different model ?- 993 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
- (and 2 more)
-
Exactly. A sort of a box inboard of the bulwark (in my example, but could be also on a lower deck) with a lid. This leads into a rectangular shaft outside, that reaches down to about 1 m above the CWL. The ash is hoisted from the boiler-room in buckets that are then suspended from overhead rails on which they can be moved to the chutes. They are always arranged symmetrically on both, starboard and port, so that the ash can be always dumped on lee. One can see these installations on old war-ship photographs, the ash-chutes are rectangular boxes, while the drains from toilets etc. are half-round. Nice work on the torbedo-crane - as habitually 👍
-
"I think if we come in our skills just a bit closer to what our ancestors could do, it would be good." ... they also had more time, because they didn't spend so much time on the fora 👹😏
-
Well, actually not. In real terms the ash-chutes will have about the same size, but materials thicknesses have to be more delicate, having been made on the prototype from thin steel-sheet. I am also trying to reproduce on many parts the mode of assembly/fastening, i.e. the rivetting. Hence, I am using surface-etched parts.
-
Thanks. I was asking, as I soon will have to make some similar parts, ash-chutes - only two, but in 1:160 scale, so much thinner material
-
15' Dinghy by Bedford - FINISHED - 1:1 scale
wefalck replied to Bedford's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Nice idea. In the old days they seem to have used simple pin in the end of the tiller, around which a rope/the running end of the tackle to support the tiller was laid. Doesn't get the device in the way, when holding the tiller normally, i.e. without the outrigger ? -
I hope @archjofo doesn't mind that I show here the tool he uses to split leather for some leathering work on his rig: I also seem to have seen on ebay some tool for splitting leather from Chines sources - there appear all sorts of unusual or tools not seen for decades in Western Europe on Chinese ebay-shops. I think there used to be a sort of scraper with a half-round blade to thin out leather - if they were still alive I would ask my grand-aunt or my great-grandfather, they had a glove-factory.
-
Excellent machining ! Was there a particular reason for using (expensive) hexagonal stock, rather than round bar stock ?
-
Really nice joinery work ! Did I get you onto something with the saddlery ... ? 😏 I am sure, you will come up with a nice solution !
-
Not sure anymore, whether you where aiming for the original or the 'Nova'. For the former, you may want to consult: BRIX, A. (1911) Praktischer Schiffbau – Bootsbau.- 327 p., Berlin (Akademischer Verein Hütte). or BRIX, A. (1921) Bootsbau, Praktischer Schiffbau.- 370 p., Norderstedt/Hamburg (Verlag Egon Heinemann GmbH). which gives a lot of details on German (big) yacht building of the time.
-
David Hathaway sells a whole range of cardboard models fo British lighthouses on his Web-site: https://www.papershipwright.co.uk/category/lighthouses/ If these don't serve your purpose, you could contact him and ask him about his sources.
-
I gather there are two 'extreme' ways of presenting a model, in an 'artisanal' style, to demonstate one's artisanal skills and with aesthetics in mind, or in a 'realistic' style, that shows, how a ship may have looked at her time. The latter style is common among plastic modellers, while those, who build wooden ship models seem to go for something in between the two extremes, but leaning often towards the more 'artisanal' one. In the latter case you can have any artistic, or rather artisanal license you want, but we also seem to have certain conventions ...
-
Don't know what Johann's plans are in this respect, but I usually go over the all the standing rigging in situ with washes of paint - as would have been done with tar on the prototype.
-
HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
wefalck replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Actually, things have become worse since that EU Directive took effect: now you have to explicitly disclose information in order to tell them that you don't want them to store exactly that information ... crazy.- 993 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- gun dispatch vessel
- victoria
- (and 2 more)
-
I am not actually into watchmaking/-repair, but due to my heavy involvement with watchmaking machinery I have been frequently involved with that community too. I also remember my father telling me something about aligning screw-slots ... his father was a precision mechanic. Anyway, it is impractical to align screw-slots in metal, as you simply cannot tighten them beyond a certain point without risking to either shear off the head, or damage the slot - conversely, it you don't tighten them enough, they will become loose. Thus it is virtually impossible to line-up countersunk screws, particularly when also their top has to be flush with the surrounding material. In the case of cheese-head screws watchmaker have a special tool with which they can shave of a bit from the underside of the head until the slots align. It is a trial-and-error procedure that is very time consuming and you also risk to damage the slot by repeated tightening and loosening. On the other hand, it is usually no problem to align slots in wood screws. The wood is elastic enough to just turn the screw a bit more. One has to be cautious, of course, also, as you may rip out the whole screw, if you overdo it - guess how I know this 😏
Our Emblem ®
