jud

You can also use low temperature melting metals to fill the copper tube and when finished forming heat the copper to remove the core metal.

I like the guide bearings on that saw except for the one below the table. I bought a cheap band saw with soft metal blocks used for the blade guides both above and below the table, never licked it much. Might be a good saw if I rebuild the guides now that I am semi retired and have some time. Good Grief, just started to count the things I want to get done now that I have more time, going to need to set priority's, that saw will be near the bottom of the list.
 
I purchased my drafting table self healing drawing pad from an instrument company that sold sextants, surveying instruments as well as drafting supply's. It was 4 feet X 7 feet when purchased, had to downsize the table to a little under 6 feet wide and 3 1/2 feet deep a few years ago. Have had this cover about 14 years, a smaller one that I had purchased a few years earlier is still being used on a desk. The material was available at any length from differentl width rolls that the company had in stock, just cut what you need, the price if I remember right was about $ 12/foot. My drafting table top is a solid core hospital door that I bought from salvage, Bought a piano hinge and mounted the door to a large steel desk, put the pad on and added a drafting machine and ended up with a 400lb +/- drafting table, a pain to move but a good solid table. I would look for a pad at an office supply house that also sells drafting tools for a pad, bet you could get along without the printed grid without much hardship and the cost probably would be much cheaper than a hobby shop offering.
jud

I like the guide bearings on that saw except for the one below the table. I bought a cheap band saw with soft metal blocks used for the blade guides both above and below the table, never licked it much. Might be a good saw if I rebuild the guides now that I am semi retired and have some time. Good Grief, just started to count the things I want to get done now that I have more time, going to need to set priority's, that saw will be near the bottom of the list.
 
I purchased my drafting table self healing drawing pad from an instrument company that sold sextants, surveying instruments as well as drafting supply's. It was 4 feet X 7 feet when purchased, had to downsize the table to a little under 6 feet wide and 3 1/2 feet deep a few years ago. Have had this cover about 14 years, a smaller one that I had purchased a few years earlier is still being used on a desk. The material was available at any length from differentl width rolls that the company had in stock, just cut what you need, the price if I remember right was about $ 12/foot. My drafting table top is a solid core hospital door that I bought from salvage, Bought a piano hinge and mounted the door to a large steel desk, put the pad on and added a drafting machine and ended up with a 400lb +/- drafting table, a pain to move but a good solid table. I would look for a pad at an office supply house that also sells drafting tools for a pad, bet you could get along without the printed grid without much hardship and the cost probably would be much cheaper than a hobby shop offering.
jud

Come on, you've had 12 minutes to post some more, I sit in anticipation, trying to be patent.
jud

Thanks for all the good tips in solving my problem.  I decided to go with the simplest, a kind of a combination of the suggestions above that is:  Take a strip of copper (soft) cut about 3/32 wide and suitable length to make the desired eye. I filed one end to a sort of blade or better yet a "scarf". I then bent it around a twist drill with a 1/8" overlap. I then sodered the assembly together.
 
 
To mount it in place on the model I first formed the rope grommet,and seized it in the "thimble with thread.  Right now it resides P & S on the model . If you look real close you can see the thimble has no flange, but tell anybody.
 
Thanks  Pat,Jud,Ulises,Bart,Druxley,Antony
 
S.os

Come on, you've had 12 minutes to post some more, I sit in anticipation, trying to be patent.
jud

Might be a good time to try using a scraper on the deck instead of sandpaper, because of the pre-painting. Like what you are doing and the thoughtful skill that is revealed by your work.
jud

Drop by, I have about 5 gallons of solvent in the shop, or you could use gasoline like we did when I was a kid to wash parts. If you have a buddy in auto or truck repair see if you can use their parts washer, save a lot of time and do a better job.
jud

Might be a good time to try using a scraper on the deck instead of sandpaper, because of the pre-painting. Like what you are doing and the thoughtful skill that is revealed by your work.
jud

Earlier I mentioned this little mill from Little Machine Shop and got several responses including a request to review this mill when I received and tried it out. Here is the start of this (perhaps ongoing) subject.
I will explain why I chose this model a bit later, but let me mention now that I had ordered the machine and tooling kit last Thursday. Today, Monday, it was at my front door. Not bad for a weekend delivery.
 
When I opened the smaller package of accessories I found the parts were all there as ordered. However, the first thing I noticed is that most metal parts were liberally coated with grease. Nothing new, of course, and perhaps necessary since all (or most) parts are made and shipped this way from China. I will be spending some time tomorrow 'degreasing'.
  
The same applies, of course, to the base and to a smaller extend to the top with its motor etc.
Overall, things are OK. The instruction manual, I am reading now, included a spare fuse on top. Not sure  yet where it goes, if needed.
 
I am going to skip over a lot of details later on and get into the guts of this thing (including why I think it is a neat little item for modeling work).

Hi all,
 
The hull is finished.  When they rebuilt Lettie, which is what the drawings were taken from, the fore deck was raised to match the poop deck.  That’s why the deck measurement is longer.  They also extended the monkey rail all the way to the bow.  In trying to restore Lettie to original condition I installed the monkey rail around the stern, only up to the step in the deck.
 
I’m going to do something different this time.  I’m going to paint the hull and then install the deck.  On the one hand I won’t have to mask the deck; on the other it will be harder to sand the deck.  Well that’s how we learn.
 
Bob
 

 

 

Received this video I'd like to share.
 
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4zkp7hvrgbcd7gd/D-qPNsG9ym#lh:null-Laffey%20Enhanced%20vo%203.wmv
 
S.os

Muriatic acid is a good cleaner for brass, have used it to clean up radiator cores and tanks when re-soldering the tubes, both top and bottom, bought the acid by the quart and used a portable grinder with a wire wheel to remove the old solder, washed it with the acid and then re-soldered without further cleaning or touching. Did that several times on old Caterpillar RD 6 radiators when I was farming, had three of the old darlings, always had one that was running when needed. Late 30's Cats and could buy them at scrap iron prices then, no more, they are collectibles today.
jud..

Were I going to scale up part of a smaller circle, I would drop a vertical line down from the radius point. that would act as a reference line to center the expanded segment, you can always get a circle to intersect two points if the circle is large enough but that alone will not result in symmetrical appearance between two fixed points on your plans, That vertical line may be handy to have available to fine tune the horizontal position of your enlarged curve.
jud

Bees wax is used in saddle making and other leather work. When sewing the sheepskin on the skirting the hair fibers will catch in the waxed thread and make a mess by pulling the hair through the skirting, also makes it very hard to pull the stitching tight. I read about using beeswax as usual except when sewing the sheepskin, for that use a small piece of canvas, tie one end of the waxed thread to something stable and burnish the waxed thread using the canvas, it heats the thread,and polishes it allowing it to pass through the sheepskin without picking up the fibers, I have done it, it works, which leads me to believe that burnishing the rigging lines would also have some good results for sealing the line and controlling fuzzes.
jud

I thought about this tool, to facilitate the winding ropes:
 

 
it is a simple tool. Just a wood strip in advance, with two holes where I glue two pins, and a notch at the tip.
 
it work very simply:
 

 
Ropes in advance must be wrapped around the two pins crossing
 

 

 
when the coil of rope is ready, it can be wrapped around the pins
 

 
 
 

Well I found, at least for me, the ideal hunk of wood for my weathered looking display case base.
It was 12"x3'. Now 8 1/4 W. by 28" L by 7" H.
 
I think it's cherry and surprisingly sound under all that grey.  I had to rip 45o cuts all around to reverse the pieces and glue them back on to preserve the weathered look. The short ends needed a veneer of 3/32 glued back on. The boat is elevated 1 3/8" by means of a 6/32 FH steel bolt in a brass sleeve.
I reinforced the inside of the bilge and drilled and tapped it to receive the bolt. The floor board will cover the bolt end.
 
I had on hand an imitation Sperm Scrimshawed whale tooth that I decided to be in the display. 
I drilled into the base and tapped it out to receive a 2".. 10/24 steel bolt, which holds it erect on the base.
 
A local plastic shop cut the pieces for the case (not shown). I glued it together with little trouble doing only one side at a time.
 
Now all I have to do is to finish the model. Mostly the small whale hunting gear and figure a way to impart a grungy look to the furled sail.  Maybe just wipe up the shop floor will do it.
 



 
 
S.os
 
 

I've linked to this one before, looks like a very nice small mill to me. If 5k rpm is fast enough for your needs I'd say go for it. The MF70 is not in the same class as this machine. At only 7kg it's easy to move around if you're short of space and the 20k rpm will be good for some jobs but the 5k rpm lowest speed is a bit limiting if you ever intend to cut metal. At 48kg the Micro Mill is not something you'll want to move around very often but mass is a good thing to have in a milling machine although you'll still need to bolt it down. As said by many others before, you can do small stuff on a big (ger) machine but but you can't do big stuff on a small one. Don't forget that what you're buying is a machine tool, albeit a small one. And if you buy the right one you'll soon find out how useful it is to make your own jigs and tools with it. My only concern is which model to buy, the one with the ER16 Collet or the Number 2 Morse Taper? If you're in any doubt try and find some reviews on the net and see what others have to say about the machine.
 
Update. I forgot to add the link for those in the UK interested in this machine.
 
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Milling-Machines/SIEG-Super-X1LP-Mill/SIEG-Super-X1LP-Mill

The deck beam shown is arched, when loaded the decking would be in compression and strengthen the deck beam, the king planks being thicker would provide greater compression strength where the forces would be greatest across the span. Doubt that the internal divisions were designed to be structural members of the ship. Only my opinion based on the above drawing.
jud

Sam, I´ll give some thought on it.
 
Meanwhile, found this video in youtube:

 
Great information on it.

Sorry Jay. Got a little busy but here is a couple of photo's showing them along with the scuppers and manger. Still some work going on in this area so forgive the mess. Hope it helps down the road. Gary

Joe,
 
I posted those for people like David so they can get an idea.  By all means feel free.  The more info, the better as there is no one right way for everyone.  Your way might be the perfect one for those who couldn't get the others to work for them.  And there's those who take a bit from one source, a bit from another, etc.  Once you're ready, let us know and we can get it added to the Article database.

Once you serve, it's in your blood forever.  It's one of the reasons I build ship models.

The mines used were made by people who knew what they were doing and what was needed to lay them safely. Most had a one hour delay before they were armed, giving the mine laying vessel time to clear the area. Some could be set for delays much longer if needed. Most were designed to disarm themselves if their mooring cable was broken and the mine floated to the surface, don't think anyone trusted that safety device and sunk floaters with rifle fire.
jud

Hey Jud, 
 
Up side will have some holes for air access. In to do list for tomorrow. 
 
I've used that transformer before with same motor, did not noticed any heat problem. But we will see of course If I need a cooler, a PC fan will be fine I guess. And have enough space for this upgrade.
 
Thanks for looking in and your important advice.
 
Bugra.