Kurt Johnson

Frank,

Very precise work!

Kurt

Beautiful

I actually think it’s 3:1. I had noticed this giant inflatable hand laying in a corner of his shop under a tarp once. Now I finally know what that was for.

Kurt

Boy, that camera is your friend!! I’ve never seen a model look so clean and perfect. Not a smudge or scatch anywhere. Please tell me there’s a big pile of regects laying all over the floor. I don’t think a full sized boat would be able to look that fine.

Kurt

Rich,

That turned out very well.

Kurt

To be honest with you, I was wondering about also going a paper route. I was also considering just painting, with painting some plates subtlety different. The thought of things just falling off, doesn’t appeal to me. Although I might not be around to see it. Copper foil seems too darn bright! The aircraft guys come up with some really convincing finishes depicting individual metal plates. I don’t see why we can’t do it even better.

Kurt

Looking through Dick Blick artist supplies on internet I came across a product called Copper Leaf, which is the same as Gold Leaf but Copper (duh). I never knew it existed. Actually never gave it a thought. Has anyone used this in ship modeling? It comes in 5 1/2 inch square sheets.

The plastic! That takes me back to my college days. But Brooklyn, not Jersey. That was when the world made some kind of sense!

Chuck,

Any progress?

Kurt

Looking real nice, Rich. I have always liked the Kate Cory. The camera can kinda brutal, but it always looks better in real life. Can’t wait to see how the whaleboats turn out.

Kurt

I'm looking forward to the kit. It will be interesting trying the yellow cedar.

Kurt

She’s coming along great. Your stuff always looks so darn neat and clean, even under close ups ( or are you photoshoping everything). It’s interesting to see the subtle differences evolving in your builds like the supports by the transom and stem on the build board. It’s gonna be fun when it’s ready for us.

Kurt

I would think they would have used clenched nails, with copper roves or clench rings on the real thing but, not nuts. Those could be made with a punch, and thin copper sheet if you actually wanted to. Not part of the kit of course.

Kurt

That tape brace is brilliant! 

Kurt

It was the Dark Titebond so it was kinda mocha color and cures brown, as for smell I don't remember any, its already in dumpster. I always score the surfaces with a new knife blade. Unfortunately in this particular instance I really can't clamp it, its too delicate, even for rubber bands. I usually try and peg joints some how with brass wire. I may end up trying to do that in the end.

Thanks,

Kurt

I recently have been having a number of glue failures on the model I'm working, and have come to question the glue. It is Titebond 2, but its at least 2 years old, so maybe its shot. I went to Lowes to get new glue. I noticed that Titebond has Quick & Thick Multi Surface Glue. It says its a Thixiotropic PVA , titebond 2 is a cross linking PVA, not sure how that would effect what we do.  Does anyone have any experience using it? It supposedly drys clear and has some gap filling properties, clamping time is half Titebond 2, 15 minutes and opposed to 30 minutes. I bought both.

Any chemists among us have any thoughts?

Kurt

You do keep busy and have me drooling about this project. But then again, I’m always drooling ( so no big whoop!). The one up side is I get to hide my own Easter eggs!!!

Seriously, I have been buying kits for a very, very long tme and have actually put some together. You have brought the possibilities of everyday modelers to more than several levels above what has generally been offered up until now. It is really very encouraging to see. I am going to follow the development of this very closely. It’s interesting watching how this evolves from thought to finished object. Keep us in the loop!

Kurt

Really nice and clean work. 

Kurt

I’m in!  I think I’ll plank the entire hull, though.

Kurt

I personally would like to see the long boat. Since I’m currently working on the Queen Anne barge it would be a nice addition, being the same scale and period. I definitely think it should be a small subject that could be completed in a reasonable amount of time. The amount of time required for say the Winnie and the space required, I would think be difficult to keep a group of people focused on to complete the project.  Having it available as a starter package or as a complete kit would open the project up to a wider group of people. If someone wanted just the plans so they could scratch build it they could always go that route.  

I would be willing to pay for such a starter package or kit. I don’t see how anyone could expect not to. How much, depends on what it is. The cheapest kits are around $50 to $75 and that doesn’t buy very much. I would imagine it would be much better quality, so $100 to 150 wouldn’t be unreasonable. $75 for plans would also be reasonable.

Something non military, like the sharpie or Michael’s pilot boat (not in 1/8, I don’t have the room) would be kinda nice.

Kurt

I’m pretty sure Menards does

Kurt

Thanks Joshua, I hope I can return the favor some day.

Kurt

Glad to see more of her.The usual Rogers standard of course.

Kurt

You must be especially proud of how you pulled off those fixs. I sure would be! I wish I tried your alcohol heat gun trick. Mine’s planked to just below the wales. so far. I did two rip offs and always took off more than I probably needed to because the edges of some of the best planking would chip, removing the bad ones. C’est La Guerre.

Kurt

PS.  I really like how the yellow cedar looks.

Using a paper guide to determine the length between sheer and keel to help determine plank width. I’ve done a few times but with big chunks of time between doing it. Actually, now that I think about it should be the depth of the rabbet. The first one from the bottom is the garboard.