Mike Y

Speaking of a fully framed models - a friend of mine visited an interesting project today - 1:1 reconstruction of Poltava, 1712 ship, partially designed by Russian tsar, Peter I, who studied shipbuilding in Holland. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russian_ship_of_the_line_Poltava_(1712)
The site is located in St.Petersburg, Russia.
Pretty interesting to see, looks very close to that build logs, and nearly-round shape of the hull make it look like Triton
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Speaking of a fully framed models - a friend of mine visited an interesting project today - 1:1 reconstruction of Poltava, 1712 ship, partially designed by Russian tsar, Peter I, who studied shipbuilding in Holland. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russian_ship_of_the_line_Poltava_(1712)
The site is located in St.Petersburg, Russia.
Pretty interesting to see, looks very close to that build logs, and nearly-round shape of the hull make it look like Triton
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Time for an epic fail!
I had an idea to plank sheer strake in a anchor stock pattern, like the one I saw in Anatomy of Pandora book.
 
So I took a sheet of wood a bit thicker then regular planks, cut lots of pieces on a band saw:

 
Glued them together to shape all at the same time:

 
Then shaped them with files, knife and chisels until I managed to make a nice joints...
 
Glued shaped patterns on a paper strip to see how it will look like... (Ignore small gaps, final fine fitting would be done while gluing. Dots are just marks for treenails, there would be a real treenails later.)

 
And it looks ugly - too heavy for a light model of that size. Hope that experiment will give you a good laughs
 
So I wrote it down like a scarf carving exercise, and need to think again how to make a sheer strake. Still don't want friezes.
Probably just plank as usual and add some light moulding? Any ideas are welcome, even the crazy ones!

Just finished catching up with your log - incredible level of detail on such a small scale! Just... Wow!

Thanks again everyone for all the encouraging comments and the "likes".
 
Mark - not having a unicorn to hand, I just asked the dog.  He's not sure, but as long as I keep feeding him he's prepared to say I'm sane!
 
Remco - I've been following (mainly) my Warrior practicum for constructing these boats.  Thanks for the reminder about the Antscherl cutter practicum - I'm pretty sure I downloaded that some time ago, so I'll have another read through that as well before I start the clinker planking.
 
Ship's Boats continued:
 
Today I concentrated on constructing and installing the Sternsheets, along with the lifting rings fwd and aft, and the Caprails.  For the Sternsheets, I opted to include a seat-back as well. To keep the colour theme going, I trimmed the sternsheets with 1/32" square Boxwood, but for the seat-back, I used two laminates of 1/64" Holly to achieve the curvature required.
 
Here's couple of overall shots of the sternsheets in place.  Continuing the photography experimentation, I've gone back to a black background for this series of shots.  I think that for this little boat it works better than the blue, particularly with the white hull.
 

 

 

 
Here's a couple of close-ups of the Lifting rings installed:
 

 
Note in this pic, the cutouts at the fwd end of the sternsheets.  This is to allow some extra leg room for those on the aft most thwart.
 

 
And here's a couple of shots of the Caprail in place.  This really makes the whole thing really pop.
 

 

 

 
And finally, just for another scale check, here's a pic of that giant fake hand again
 

 
All that's left now is the washboards/oarlocks.  I've started preparing the stock for these, and all I can say is thank goodness for my Byrnes saw, and all the practice I had in preparing stock for very small blocks!!!!
 
That's all for now folks.

...

Hi Mike. Now I understand! Thanks. I've been building models most of my life and this is the first time I've heard of a timbering kit. But then again, I often say that I'm a bit thick, but happy to learn new tricks!
 
I still reckon that what you've set out to do is one hell of a challenge and a great deal of fun. Looking forward to following your log.
 
Thanks and all the best!

There is no kit for that ship (and there are not so many POF kits out there). This is a timbering set - plans, required amount of wood milled to a proper thickness, and some laser cut parts (Hahn jig, keel, some small parts). There are also no instructions, only plans. I have Hahn's book, but most "instructions" are build logs on that forum. See http://www.dlumberyard.com/shipkits.html
Scroll/band saw is a must for that build, lots of frames to cut from that wood!
 
You can also look on Licorne build as a good example of Hahn's method. Or Triton build (there is a sub-forum for it). Or just any other POF scratch build.
 
It is not a 100% scratch because you skip the step of preparing 3d model of a hull based on old plans, and you already have a proper amount of wood in a sizes that you need. But that deviation is acceptable on that forum

Hi Mike, I shall also follow along with your build.
 
Ben

And here is what you get inside the timbering set from The Lumberyard.
 
Various planking and frame wood. Notice that wood color is pretty varying, so needs to be sorted.
Framing, keel, deck beams/knees would be in swiss pear, planking - boxwood, fittings - mixed. I also got beech, walnut and cherry for some parts, but not sure if I'll use them. Will see!

 
Laser cut parts. Planning to make my own deck beams with a cute scarfs, instead of using these. But they are a good backup, if my scarfs will turn into failure:

 
And plans, lots of them!

 
Don't mind the small size of the photos, it's 11.5 kg of wood!
Let's unpack the blueprints and make some sawdust!

Why scratch?
I always had a high requirements for a wood quality and fitting quality. Unfortunately, even expensive kits were never that close. After getting a first pack of boxwood, I would never go back to any inferior wood. Hence, only scratch. Not that scary though, I do most of the parts from scratch anyway.
It's a pity that kit producers do not offer a wood upgrade. For a serious build, cost is spreading over a number of years, so is it really so important?
Speed of the build is not important, I enjoy the process. As Remco says - "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime".
 
Why Hahn?
For a weird reason, don't like the realistic framing style, like David Antscherl suggests. First - you don't see anything between frames, and second - uneven spacing and shape of frames make me feel dizzy when I look on them. Physically. I know it sounds weird, but I just can't. So - frames would be spaced evenly, even if it's unrealistic. So what, I'm not adding a rocket engines to my model
Also, Hahn's method for a frame construction looks easier. Yes, the wood usage is higher, but again - why that matters? I will build it for 5 years at least, so paying a bit extra for additional wood is not a problem. And I truly like the design of Hahn's jig!
 
Why Beavers Prize / Oliver Cromwell?
This ship has no honorable history. It was built in 1777 in Philadelphia, started a pretty good career - capturing 7 ships in 3 months after a start - but then was defeated by british HMS Beaver. Was downgraded from 24 cannons to 12, and served remaining time guarding british coast. Died in a hurricane after a number of years, slowly degrading and having a continuous problems with discipline onboard.
But there is something in the lines of that ship that touches me. Look on the model - hull proportions are pretty nice. It's not too high, and not too low, and I was looking for that photos a lot, admiring its beauty:
 

 

And here is what you get inside the timbering set from The Lumberyard.
 
Various planking and frame wood. Notice that wood color is pretty varying, so needs to be sorted.
Framing, keel, deck beams/knees would be in swiss pear, planking - boxwood, fittings - mixed. I also got beech, walnut and cherry for some parts, but not sure if I'll use them. Will see!

 
Laser cut parts. Planning to make my own deck beams with a cute scarfs, instead of using these. But they are a good backup, if my scarfs will turn into failure:

 
And plans, lots of them!

 
Don't mind the small size of the photos, it's 11.5 kg of wood!
Let's unpack the blueprints and make some sawdust!

Hi Guys,
 
Here's some details of the carvings, still some decisions to make but I'm closing in on the final result:
 
for scale refference:

 
 
 
The signil in the middel, it;s he one of Middelburg where the original was build
 

 
 
I finally decided that the things they are holding must be shells of some sort:
 

 
Have fun,
Michiel

Looks like this will be an interesting build Mike. Think I'll pull up a chair in the front row for this one.

Why scratch?
I always had a high requirements for a wood quality and fitting quality. Unfortunately, even expensive kits were never that close. After getting a first pack of boxwood, I would never go back to any inferior wood. Hence, only scratch. Not that scary though, I do most of the parts from scratch anyway.
It's a pity that kit producers do not offer a wood upgrade. For a serious build, cost is spreading over a number of years, so is it really so important?
Speed of the build is not important, I enjoy the process. As Remco says - "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime".
 
Why Hahn?
For a weird reason, don't like the realistic framing style, like David Antscherl suggests. First - you don't see anything between frames, and second - uneven spacing and shape of frames make me feel dizzy when I look on them. Physically. I know it sounds weird, but I just can't. So - frames would be spaced evenly, even if it's unrealistic. So what, I'm not adding a rocket engines to my model
Also, Hahn's method for a frame construction looks easier. Yes, the wood usage is higher, but again - why that matters? I will build it for 5 years at least, so paying a bit extra for additional wood is not a problem. And I truly like the design of Hahn's jig!
 
Why Beavers Prize / Oliver Cromwell?
This ship has no honorable history. It was built in 1777 in Philadelphia, started a pretty good career - capturing 7 ships in 3 months after a start - but then was defeated by british HMS Beaver. Was downgraded from 24 cannons to 12, and served remaining time guarding british coast. Died in a hurricane after a number of years, slowly degrading and having a continuous problems with discipline onboard.
But there is something in the lines of that ship that touches me. Look on the model - hull proportions are pretty nice. It's not too high, and not too low, and I was looking for that photos a lot, admiring its beauty:
 

 

And here is what you get inside the timbering set from The Lumberyard.
 
Various planking and frame wood. Notice that wood color is pretty varying, so needs to be sorted.
Framing, keel, deck beams/knees would be in swiss pear, planking - boxwood, fittings - mixed. I also got beech, walnut and cherry for some parts, but not sure if I'll use them. Will see!

 
Laser cut parts. Planning to make my own deck beams with a cute scarfs, instead of using these. But they are a good backup, if my scarfs will turn into failure:

 
And plans, lots of them!

 
Don't mind the small size of the photos, it's 11.5 kg of wood!
Let's unpack the blueprints and make some sawdust!

Why scratch?
I always had a high requirements for a wood quality and fitting quality. Unfortunately, even expensive kits were never that close. After getting a first pack of boxwood, I would never go back to any inferior wood. Hence, only scratch. Not that scary though, I do most of the parts from scratch anyway.
It's a pity that kit producers do not offer a wood upgrade. For a serious build, cost is spreading over a number of years, so is it really so important?
Speed of the build is not important, I enjoy the process. As Remco says - "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime".
 
Why Hahn?
For a weird reason, don't like the realistic framing style, like David Antscherl suggests. First - you don't see anything between frames, and second - uneven spacing and shape of frames make me feel dizzy when I look on them. Physically. I know it sounds weird, but I just can't. So - frames would be spaced evenly, even if it's unrealistic. So what, I'm not adding a rocket engines to my model
Also, Hahn's method for a frame construction looks easier. Yes, the wood usage is higher, but again - why that matters? I will build it for 5 years at least, so paying a bit extra for additional wood is not a problem. And I truly like the design of Hahn's jig!
 
Why Beavers Prize / Oliver Cromwell?
This ship has no honorable history. It was built in 1777 in Philadelphia, started a pretty good career - capturing 7 ships in 3 months after a start - but then was defeated by british HMS Beaver. Was downgraded from 24 cannons to 12, and served remaining time guarding british coast. Died in a hurricane after a number of years, slowly degrading and having a continuous problems with discipline onboard.
But there is something in the lines of that ship that touches me. Look on the model - hull proportions are pretty nice. It's not too high, and not too low, and I was looking for that photos a lot, admiring its beauty:
 

 

Why scratch?
I always had a high requirements for a wood quality and fitting quality. Unfortunately, even expensive kits were never that close. After getting a first pack of boxwood, I would never go back to any inferior wood. Hence, only scratch. Not that scary though, I do most of the parts from scratch anyway.
It's a pity that kit producers do not offer a wood upgrade. For a serious build, cost is spreading over a number of years, so is it really so important?
Speed of the build is not important, I enjoy the process. As Remco says - "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime".
 
Why Hahn?
For a weird reason, don't like the realistic framing style, like David Antscherl suggests. First - you don't see anything between frames, and second - uneven spacing and shape of frames make me feel dizzy when I look on them. Physically. I know it sounds weird, but I just can't. So - frames would be spaced evenly, even if it's unrealistic. So what, I'm not adding a rocket engines to my model
Also, Hahn's method for a frame construction looks easier. Yes, the wood usage is higher, but again - why that matters? I will build it for 5 years at least, so paying a bit extra for additional wood is not a problem. And I truly like the design of Hahn's jig!
 
Why Beavers Prize / Oliver Cromwell?
This ship has no honorable history. It was built in 1777 in Philadelphia, started a pretty good career - capturing 7 ships in 3 months after a start - but then was defeated by british HMS Beaver. Was downgraded from 24 cannons to 12, and served remaining time guarding british coast. Died in a hurricane after a number of years, slowly degrading and having a continuous problems with discipline onboard.
But there is something in the lines of that ship that touches me. Look on the model - hull proportions are pretty nice. It's not too high, and not too low, and I was looking for that photos a lot, admiring its beauty:
 

 

And here is what you get inside the timbering set from The Lumberyard.
 
Various planking and frame wood. Notice that wood color is pretty varying, so needs to be sorted.
Framing, keel, deck beams/knees would be in swiss pear, planking - boxwood, fittings - mixed. I also got beech, walnut and cherry for some parts, but not sure if I'll use them. Will see!

 
Laser cut parts. Planning to make my own deck beams with a cute scarfs, instead of using these. But they are a good backup, if my scarfs will turn into failure:

 
And plans, lots of them!

 
Don't mind the small size of the photos, it's 11.5 kg of wood!
Let's unpack the blueprints and make some sawdust!

Why scratch?
I always had a high requirements for a wood quality and fitting quality. Unfortunately, even expensive kits were never that close. After getting a first pack of boxwood, I would never go back to any inferior wood. Hence, only scratch. Not that scary though, I do most of the parts from scratch anyway.
It's a pity that kit producers do not offer a wood upgrade. For a serious build, cost is spreading over a number of years, so is it really so important?
Speed of the build is not important, I enjoy the process. As Remco says - "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime".
 
Why Hahn?
For a weird reason, don't like the realistic framing style, like David Antscherl suggests. First - you don't see anything between frames, and second - uneven spacing and shape of frames make me feel dizzy when I look on them. Physically. I know it sounds weird, but I just can't. So - frames would be spaced evenly, even if it's unrealistic. So what, I'm not adding a rocket engines to my model
Also, Hahn's method for a frame construction looks easier. Yes, the wood usage is higher, but again - why that matters? I will build it for 5 years at least, so paying a bit extra for additional wood is not a problem. And I truly like the design of Hahn's jig!
 
Why Beavers Prize / Oliver Cromwell?
This ship has no honorable history. It was built in 1777 in Philadelphia, started a pretty good career - capturing 7 ships in 3 months after a start - but then was defeated by british HMS Beaver. Was downgraded from 24 cannons to 12, and served remaining time guarding british coast. Died in a hurricane after a number of years, slowly degrading and having a continuous problems with discipline onboard.
But there is something in the lines of that ship that touches me. Look on the model - hull proportions are pretty nice. It's not too high, and not too low, and I was looking for that photos a lot, admiring its beauty:
 

 

Mark, best wishes! 

And here is what you get inside the timbering set from The Lumberyard.
 
Various planking and frame wood. Notice that wood color is pretty varying, so needs to be sorted.
Framing, keel, deck beams/knees would be in swiss pear, planking - boxwood, fittings - mixed. I also got beech, walnut and cherry for some parts, but not sure if I'll use them. Will see!

 
Laser cut parts. Planning to make my own deck beams with a cute scarfs, instead of using these. But they are a good backup, if my scarfs will turn into failure:

 
And plans, lots of them!

 
Don't mind the small size of the photos, it's 11.5 kg of wood!
Let's unpack the blueprints and make some sawdust!

Why scratch?
I always had a high requirements for a wood quality and fitting quality. Unfortunately, even expensive kits were never that close. After getting a first pack of boxwood, I would never go back to any inferior wood. Hence, only scratch. Not that scary though, I do most of the parts from scratch anyway.
It's a pity that kit producers do not offer a wood upgrade. For a serious build, cost is spreading over a number of years, so is it really so important?
Speed of the build is not important, I enjoy the process. As Remco says - "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime".
 
Why Hahn?
For a weird reason, don't like the realistic framing style, like David Antscherl suggests. First - you don't see anything between frames, and second - uneven spacing and shape of frames make me feel dizzy when I look on them. Physically. I know it sounds weird, but I just can't. So - frames would be spaced evenly, even if it's unrealistic. So what, I'm not adding a rocket engines to my model
Also, Hahn's method for a frame construction looks easier. Yes, the wood usage is higher, but again - why that matters? I will build it for 5 years at least, so paying a bit extra for additional wood is not a problem. And I truly like the design of Hahn's jig!
 
Why Beavers Prize / Oliver Cromwell?
This ship has no honorable history. It was built in 1777 in Philadelphia, started a pretty good career - capturing 7 ships in 3 months after a start - but then was defeated by british HMS Beaver. Was downgraded from 24 cannons to 12, and served remaining time guarding british coast. Died in a hurricane after a number of years, slowly degrading and having a continuous problems with discipline onboard.
But there is something in the lines of that ship that touches me. Look on the model - hull proportions are pretty nice. It's not too high, and not too low, and I was looking for that photos a lot, admiring its beauty:
 

 

It's good to have a background project, Mike.  Building the frames is, to me, a slow process... after cutting blanks, you wait for glue to dry. Then cut the frames and wait some more for glue to dry.  The Cromwell is a sweet looking ship. 

And here is what you get inside the timbering set from The Lumberyard.
 
Various planking and frame wood. Notice that wood color is pretty varying, so needs to be sorted.
Framing, keel, deck beams/knees would be in swiss pear, planking - boxwood, fittings - mixed. I also got beech, walnut and cherry for some parts, but not sure if I'll use them. Will see!

 
Laser cut parts. Planning to make my own deck beams with a cute scarfs, instead of using these. But they are a good backup, if my scarfs will turn into failure:

 
And plans, lots of them!

 
Don't mind the small size of the photos, it's 11.5 kg of wood!
Let's unpack the blueprints and make some sawdust!