bhermann
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Everything posted by bhermann
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The cove looks pretty evident to me in the longer range photo, John. I agree that keeping it nice and crisp during finishing will be challenging. But then I wimped out and just painted a yellow stripe! Bob
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John - like you, Bluenose was my first planking job and the filler was needed to hide my mess . About the walnut veneer - I found other uses for it, mostly in covering the roof of deck structures, and also as a filler for a couple of the bulkheads that were just a tad too thin on their own. Bob
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Very nice start, John. That will give you a great basis to work from. I used decals for the Bluenose name at the head, still haven't figured a way to do the stern lettering yet. I did the scrollwork by hand. You can find the details in the summary log I posted (link in my signature). Looking forward to watching your build develop. Bob
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Nice finish to a beautiful model, David. I like that you rigged the gaffs in the lowered position, consistent with no sails bent on them. Very nice details all around. Bob
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Per - do you really Moon us??? Nice image. On the bars, did you consider trying to file slots in the underside of the frame? I know they would be tiny, but if it could be done, that might provide a little more purchase to hold the bars in place. BTW, I am no expert on the skylight windows - all I did was paint some black squares on the solid white box to simulate windows, pretty cheesy. Bob
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Welcome to the Bluenose crew, Ed. It looks like you are off to a solid start and making sensible choices as you get into it. Ah, that aft end of the former - I snapped it off and repaired it at least twice. It is just a finicky thing to deal with. I am looking forward to watching your progress on a beautiful ship! Bob
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Per, if I may. I suspect John is referring to the tops of the bulkheads that become some of the deck stanchions. My recollection is that the kit-provided bulkheads were thicker than the stanchion dimension, and that is the reason for thinning the top of the bulkhead above where the decking is laid, to make those tops the same thickness as the stanchions. For my build (many years back) I simply cut off all the bulkhead extensions and installed new stanchions above the deck from end to end. If I'm wrong, John will post a reference to the post he is talking about, and we'll move on from there Bob
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I am just catching up on this build and enjoying very much. I will be following along. Thanks for the link to the Gene Bodnar practicum, I had seen it a few years ago, but lost track of it over time as I have been away from my Bluenose build for a few years. Great start and I am looking forward to following your progress! Bob
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That is a fine looking eagle, Ron! Very nicely done, with a deft touch. And nice shots of the hawk (red tail?). We have a few of them hanging around the neighborhood here durning the day, and owls at night! Bob
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Nice to see them all marching into place, Per. Now what spell did you use to get them to do that? The finish looks very good too! Bob
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Agreed on the lack of glass. On the Model Shipways plan they are listed as "Air ports", which indicate ventilation as the main purpose to my mind. Because I have no detail inside the cabin, I painted a block of wood flat black and glued it to the inside of the cabin wall to finish them off and prevent any view to the undetailed inside. Love these latest details you have added. The boom buffer is a major improvement on the cast kit parts! Bob
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Jim - I found Russ's tutorial in the Ship Modeling Materials and Tools section of the Articles database. It gave me a very good start on silver soldering. Take a look if you get the chance. Bob
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Welcome aboard, Jim (or should I say McDaddy?). I'm glad I could help out with your mystery. I learned my soldering from a tutorial Russ had posted on the MSW 1.0 site. I use a silver solder paste, which I can't read the label on any more, as it has faded a lot over the past 10 years or so. Since I only have the one tube, I can safely say all my soldering has been done at one temperature. I have been able to solder as many as four lugs on a single band on the bowsprit, so there has been no need for multiple temperatures. I use a Bernzomatic butane micro torch which I think I picked up at Home Depot. I tried several pencil grip torches before settling on the micro torch. I had a terrible time refilling them, this one has worked well for me. Here is a link to the torch (or a newer version of my torch) on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Bernz-Matic-ST2200T-Micro-Butane/dp/B000PS9TQI?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2 I will poke around and see if the Russ tutorial made it to MSW 2.0. One of the main things to remember is that the solder flows toward the heat, not away from it. Once I figured that out I got much better at getting good connections on the first try. Bob
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Thanks for the photos, Richard. Yes, I should have said I found pictures of the chainplates inlaid into the hull. I am building the Model Shipways kit and when I read the note about them being flush with the hull, I interpreted that as being the outside face of the chainplates being even with the planking. The photo I based my judgement on is here: https://novascotia.ca/archives/bluenose/archives.asp?ID=88 In any case I discovered the information after I had laid the chainplates proud of the hull and I'll live with it. Bob
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Hi Richard I have been using the Nova Scotia Archive site for a lot of what I have done so far. Most of the detail photos there are from later in Bluenose history, and there are some taken from dockside earlier in her career. The site is here, if you don't have it. https://novascotia.ca/archives/bluenose/ I also have visited the L. A. Dunton at Mystic Seaport and have several photos of her. While she was built by Chapelle, she is contemporary with Bluenose and shares some detail. I know you aren't there yet, one of my main regrets thus far is not placing the chainplates flush with the hull. I didn't realize unto after I had installed mine that they should have been. Pictures of Bluenose and my visit to the Dunton confirm this was the case. Given the amount of work you have put in to accuracy of your model, I'm guessing you would want to do that. Bob
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Richard I have been away from the forum for a while and just discovered your Bluenose. The level of detail and authenticity you are putting into this is just amazing. I will be following along as you proceed with the build. Thanks for sharing all the great information on your sources and how you are approaching each of these "mini-builds", that will come together into one fantastic schooner by the time you are done with it. Bob
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Late breaking news - I am now in the process of setting up for retirement (yay!) and expect to be back in the shipyard soon. It has been way too long since I have put any time in on Bluenose. I did blow some of the heavier dust off the other day. It'll be good to be back at it! Bob
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J - I took a look back at my restarted log. I detailed the scupper work here: As far as the colors go, my recollection is that the practicum had a lot of areas on the rail painted white where the plans called for them to be black, and vice-versa. I apologize but I haven't looked at the practicum, nor the plans for deck painting schemes for a few years. What I recall is that the practicum called for a number of rail tops to be black, and the outer side white, but the plans called for white tops and black outer sides. The plan information and scheme looked more real-world to me. Who knows, she may have been painted both ways at different points in her career! Bob
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Good to see you at it again, Per. You are coming along nicely. Bob
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Nice start on your Bluenose, J. You did a really nice job on the hull and deck planking. I also started with the Hunt Practicum, as Bluenose is my first wood build as well. Like DBorgens, I followed the Hunt practicum at the start, but stopped around the time of the deck furniture. I also thought some of his instruction on painting the upper hull and rails didn't match the plans well, so followed the plans instead. There was also the matter of the scuppers, which I did differently than he called for. In any case, it will be fun to watch your progress, things are looking fine thus far! Bob
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Hi BigJ and welcome to the Bluenose club. My recollection of those filler blocks is that I traced the cross sections from the plans onto the sides and end of the blocks and removed the excess material with a coping saw, then glued them in place and finished shaping them as part of the bulkhead fairing process. Of course this all happened 12 years ago, so there is no guarantee that is exactly how it went down. My advice is to take a deep breath, take your time and work the excess away slowly. And always remember - it is wood, if things get too bad, you can always remove what you've done and start over with new filler blocks Bob
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An update - not new build stuff, rather this is about when I may resume. I am close to setting a retirement date at the end of 2021/beginning of 2022. Since I originally took up model ship building as something I would be able to do after the working days were done, it seems fitting that resumption be tied to that event. Bluenose is still sitting quietly on the workbench (in her Lands End cradle), patiently awaiting my attention. The time is coming! Bob
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Still out here, but no work on the Bluenose. I have taken on a different ship-related project for now. Following in Caroline's (VulcanBomber) footsteps, I am working on a counted cross stitch image of a ship sailing past some rocks. I have been at it since January, and am less than 1/2 way through. Bluenose continues to wait patiently, sitting next to me on the desk, being admired and thought about fairly regularly... Bob
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Derek, here's a link to my method for doing the scuppers. There are many ways to go with this, do what you are most comfortable with. In my case, I did the scuppers before installing the false stanchions. Bob
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I love the shots with the landscape in the background. It is easy to imagine the ECB full sized and sitting waterside. This is coming along so well! Bob
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