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bhermann

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Everything posted by bhermann

  1. Nice save on the mainsail height, Ed. Much nicer than having to start again! These detailed posts on rigging and sails will be invaluable to me (and others, I'm sure) when doing this portion of the build. My Bluenose has been languishing for several years at this point, your work is inspiring me to get moving again! Bob
  2. That is some fine work, Ed. I wish I had seen this before I did the hardware for the spars, particularly the sheet bands. Folding the strip and keeping the top and bottom together until everything is in place looks so much easier than trying to hold the two parts in place while adding the bail. Great thinking on your part! Bob
  3. That is a really nice treatment for the scrollwork, much nicer than the free hand drawing I did! Bob
  4. What a great save! I may have to do something similar with mine as I didn't consider how to mount the model when starting the build. I have been leaning toward a cradle in my mind and your solution looks simple yet elegant. Bob
  5. FWIW, I described how I did the deadeyes for Bluenose in my log, entry 26. Here is a link if you are interested: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/217-bluenose-by-bhermann-model-shipways-2130-164/?do=findComment&comment=10527 I don't claim to be at as high a level as you are, it may serve as something to get you thinking about one way to do it. I love those Syren deadeyes, much nicer than the kit supplied version. Bob
  6. I remember the tapering of the masts to be an interesting topic. I posted on my solution in my rebuilt log here (check post 33 for details): https://modelshipworld.com/topic/217-bluenose-by-bhermann-model-shipways-2130-164/page/2/ It is one possible way to deal with the leading edge of the fore and main masts being kept straight. I believe the booms and/or gaffs may have a similar shape as well. Take it for what it is worth, Derek. Bob
  7. Ouch! I hope the repairs are as simple as what you describe, Derek, and hope you didn't do too much damage to the saw - or yourself. I'm sure Mr. Byrnes will be most helpful. Bob
  8. Derek I am at the point of doing the sails in my build (sure, I've been at that point for a few years, but who's counting?). I recall the kit material being too heavy, and using the heavier cloth you picked up would not be an improvement. I have a quilter friend who provided me with some really light weight cloth that I am planning on using, although the silkspan that AON mentioned is rather intriguing. The kit-supplied cloth is too far out of scale for my taste. About the dories, I agree that the kit supplied material and jig is pretty chintzy. I gave up on them early on after attempting to build one. Now that I am retired and have more time, I may revisit that whole thing. Or I may just say that I am representing Bluenose for racing and leave them off entirely. Bob
  9. She is a beauty and belongs where she is, proudly displayed as the center of attention. Looking forward to your next journey with America! Bob
  10. Bradley I have enjoyed reading through your log to date and will be following along when you are able to get back to her. This is some really fine and well thought out work you have been doing! Bob
  11. I used Minwax pre-stain for the dowels. I had a Minwax stain picked out for the color so using the same brand for the pre-stain made sense to me. I have been using Minwax stains for projects around the house for many years. I heard about pre-stain on this forum, I had never used it before for anything, it did a nice job! Bob
  12. Hi, George. I just read through the entire log to this point as the MS Flying Fish kit is sitting on my cabinet waiting for me to finish my Bluenose build. Your observations and insights have been very helpful and I appreciate your time in keeping such a detailed log. Great work thus far! When it comes to staining, I don't know if you are using a pre-stain on the basswood before applying stain. I found it very helpful in reducing blotchiness when staining the birch dowels I used for the Bluenose masts. Maybe it is something that could help you going forward. I will be signing up to follow your build, I am looking forward to seeing your continued progress on the FF - she is a beauty! Bob
  13. Those are some great ideas for future builds. I did their Titanic (might have posted it here, or on the old site) and recall the difficulty getting the hull to line up properly with no twists. I also recall that after completing the deck assembly and seeing the instruction on attaching it to the hull, I thought to myself "you've got to be kidding!". I had a second run at it a couple of years later and the second version turned out much better. Bob
  14. A very nice job, Johnny. I love the pluses you added along the way. I have done a bunch of these Metal Earth models over time, mostly famous buildings and spacecraft. I love the detail they are able to build into the designs. You have given me some good ideas for doing curved pieces that I can add to future efforts. Thanks for sharing! Bob
  15. Nice save on the bowsprit, John. It looks very nice installed and painted up! Bob
  16. Very nice model! I like the contrast the veneer makes below the waterline. Thanks for sharing the build. Bob
  17. Looks like you are making some good progress. The sheaves on the main boom look exceptional! Bob
  18. Hi, Eric. My Bluenose still waits patiently for some attention. Several home projects have taken priority over the Winter. Thanks for stopping by, I hope some of this was useful to you! Bob
  19. It is surprising how much the deck detail pops after finishing. I think you are being a bit hard on yourself and that your nibbing job looks very nice. The two sides definitely line up better than mine. Stern hawse pipe? I don't think I have included that detail. Like Per, my kit didn't include a part for it. It may be too late for me. Bob
  20. Yes, Ron, Legos work very well as squaring blocks. When my granddaughter grew out of her Duplos and got into the "adult-sized" bricks, I snagged a bunch of them for the workshop! Bob
  21. John, I used Minwax Wipe-on Poly to seal the deck about 10 years ago. It has maintained the wood color since then. If that is the look you are going for, I can recommend it. Interesting choice on not darkening the edges of the nibbing planks - if I'd been thinking clearly at the time I might have done the same. Bob
  22. Looking good, Per. I lean toward the blackened pins as well. Interesting, in my vintage of the kit, the provided pins were the white metal variety, and I just stuck them in the rail as is. I didn't go back through your entire log to see if the brass pins were supplied or aftermarket, but I did notice a difference in our box art. Mine is old enough to be labeled "Canadian Fishing Schooner" while yours is "Bluenose". Bob
  23. That is a very nice looking hull - time with the airbrush is sure paying off! Bob
  24. Nice job on this assembly. I recall gluing a piece of paper to the underside to help it hold together. As it was all being painted, it is hardly noticeable. Thanks for detailing your experience so well! Bob
  25. For me, I am not seeing the photos in your posts, just a big blank space. This started with this latest group of posts. Bob
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