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bhermann

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Everything posted by bhermann

  1. bhermann
    Per - I did something similar with my hatch and cabin tops. The older versions of the kit (back in the Model Shipways days) came with walnut veneers strips as an option to finishing the hull. Since I was painting the hull, I used the walnut in the same way you used the mahogany. I agree it is a much nicer look than the burnt umber painting. Overall you are doing a fine job on this grand old lady. Concerning the practicums direction on painting - it does not match the plans in a number of areas. The sides and tops of the rails are reversed black for white, as one example. Also the finishing of the cabins and hatches may have some discrepancies - don't quote me on that one, it's been a few years. I followed the paint scheme from the plans rather than the practicum - I think it produces a more "normal" look than the practicum. As I recall it was that difference in color schemes that made me start questioning some of the practicum details and considering other ways of doing things. Bob
  2. bhermann
    For what it's worth, here is an image of my Bluenose bowsprit with the jib stops rigged. The knots that keep them in place can be seen in this photo. Hope this helps Bob
  3. bhermann
    Hi Per - I have Chucks rope ready to go. As of now only the bowsprit is rigged. I made up my own turnbuckles for this from the kit supplied brass strip and wire. I used speaker wire for the footropes as I couldn't see how to get thread to drape properly., I did use thread for the stirrups. Other than that, it's all standard stuff. I'll be getting back to Bluenose at some point - ATM I am working out some bothersome details on my astrophotography setup and am not spending any time in the shipyard. Bob
  4. bhermann
    Hi Per, good to see you starting on this grand lady. I will be following along with interest. You have already done some things I wish I had thought of way back when. The support for the waterway between the stanchions, for instance. I recall fearing those guys wold just drop into the hull when I was installing them. I also recall rejecting the Hunt practicum for the installation of the great beam. Waiting patiently for your next step. She is coming along nicely so far! Bob
  5. bhermann
    Very nice detail Dave. I handled the mast sheaves in a similar way with pretty much the same result. While studying the plan, I decided they were used to lift the topmasts into place. Whether that is true or not, I can't say. As you say, they are not used anywhere in the plans. A question on the fids - I installed them above the trestle tree and I think the plan shows that as well. I assumed their purpose was to keep the topmast from dropping through the hole, not to keep them locked in, as yours appear to function. Again my assumption was that the standing rigging would keep the topmast from lifting out of the hole. Bob
  6. bhermann
    Maybe so - I did my painting a few years ago and haven't gone looking for any since then. Who knows what happened to Model Masters since then. I'll keep my bottles sealed as tight as I can - I'd hate to have to match colors at this stage of the build! Bob
  7. bhermann
    Model Masters makes a primer in white... that's what I used. Bob
  8. bhermann
    Congratulations on finishing up this chapter of your model building. She looks really good. Bob
  9. bhermann
    I remember those mast hoops being fidgety things. In order to allow for sails and anticipating some breakage, I put a few extra on each mast before installing the cheeks and trestle trees, to hopefully ensure I could survive losing a few while lacing the sails on. Nice job on the boom rest and pin saddle, they are very crisp assemblies. Bob
  10. bhermann
    Nice work on the prototype, Dave. I found the kit-supplied dories and materials to be too hard to get a good result with, so my deck is dory-free. I like your approach and may re-try. Who knows. maybe you'll be my inspiration to get moving on this guy again! Bob
  11. bhermann
    Thanks for the demonstration, Eric. Now there is yet another possibility to consider. I like the construction method that follows actual practice this closely. Bob
  12. bhermann
    Details, please, Phil. You are just teasing us with this one For instance, what is the sail being printed on? What kind of cloth is being used?, What is the scale of the build? Anything else we all need to know? And of course, photos of the result, and if possible, the process. Just hungry for detail on a fascinating (to me) topic. Thanks, Bob
  13. bhermann
    Chuck (and the other Administrators too) Thanks for researching the possibilities on this subject and for presenting the options clearly. I like the option to restore the delete function and appreciate the safety net put in place to protect us from destroying our logs inadvertently. Hopefully the trial period will go well and this will be able to be maintained. Bob PS: thanks for pointing out where the preview function moved to. I never thought to look anywhere other than where the button used to be. What can I say, it is hard to shake off old training
  14. bhermann
    FWIW, I tossed the Model Shipways paints and went with Testors Model Masters acrylics, applied using a brush. At the time the MS paints were thick and chunky, and I fell back on what I was comfortable with from my old plastic days. Bob
  15. bhermann
    Capt. Jack - I used Testors Model Master acrylics in painting Bluenose. Four colors - Insignia Red, Blue Angels Yellow, Flat Black, and Flat White. I did prime and sand the surfaces before applying final coats. I recommend flat paints as they tend to scale better. Gloss paints will pop, but to my eye they look a bit unrealistic. Bob
  16. bhermann
    Henry - I can visualize what you are describing here - now I have yet one more thing to consider! That should put me in analysis paralysis for the foreseeable future I like what you are suggesting, and think it could solve some of the problems getting scale sails to look right. Bob
  17. bhermann
    Congratulations, Jerry, she certainly graces the space very nicely. An excellent job on a fine ship. Your comment about abandoning the practicum too late resonates with me. It was very useful to me in building up the frame and hull of my first wooden model, but it held me back when working on the deck furnishings. If I had it to do again... The Red Ensign looks very nice - I may contact the same source when I get to that point. Well done! Bob
  18. bhermann
    Congratulations, Russ, on completion of a fine model. The image showing all the sails emphasizes the amount of canvas that could be put up on these working boats. It has been quite a journey - thanks for sharing it with us. Beautiful work! Bob
  19. bhermann
    Dave - for future reference, I recall breaking the U-shaped piece of the fife rail during construction. I solved the problem by gluing a piece of paper to the underside to put it back together. The fix worked and was surprisingly rigid. It also took paint well. Just an idea to put in your toolbox for possible future use - a way to strengthen the structure without adding a lot of thickness. Your work on fixtures and fittings continues to be the best I have seen on any Bluenose. Your attention to detail is paying off! Bob
  20. bhermann
    Looking very nice, Jerry. Congratulations on a job well done! Good job on those finishing details. About the flag, if your kit is the same as mine, the flag that came with it is the Maple Leaf flag, which didn't come into use until well after the Bluenose's career was over. I believe the Red Ensign might be more appropriate for her era. Check out this wikipedia article: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canadian_Red_Ensign Looking forward to seeing her mounted and cased. Of course, as always, she is your ship, fly whatever flag you like! Bob
  21. bhermann
    Great detail and attention. I love the final version you came up with. Bob
  22. bhermann
    Hi Dave, I was happy to find your log this morning. I have read through and am reliving some of those moments I went through while working those sections. A 3d printer part for the scrollwork - what a great idea! And you executed it well. I will be following along from here - keep up the good work! Bob
  23. bhermann
    Jerry I'm not sure how I missed the first few months of your log, but I am in to see what turns up next. Your work is looking very good, and I will enjoy following along. My own Bluenose is languishing at the moment due to focus on a different hobby, but I will get back into the shipyard someday. I enjoyed looking through your log and discovering another Bluenose in the works. Bob
  24. bhermann
    Nice finish to an excellent build, Julian, Congratulations on a job well done! Bob
  25. bhermann
    The Minwax product I used on my dowels is called "Pre-stain Wood Conditioner" (I just read the can). I wiped that on with a rag, waited 15 minutes, then applied Minwax Wood Finish. It made for a very even stain - check the photos in my log to see the result. The color I used was "Special Walnut". I was going for a darker finish to make it look like the masts had been "slushed" to allow mast hoops to slide up and down. Bob

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