bhermann
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Everything posted by bhermann
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Rusty, I go away for a few days and find - THIS! Well done - I love that the final display shows so many of the structural elements while still giving a feel for what the completed section would look like. As always, that's some very clean and precise work! Bob
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Dimitris - She is looking really fine - lots of nice details and finishes. I particularly like the painted scroll work around the hawse hole. Very sharp and clean. Looking forward to more photos. Are the booms and gaffs up next? Bob
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- bluenose ii
- artesania latina
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I've noticed that stiffness when rigging the bowsprit. Putting tension on with weighted hemostats and using simulated splices did the trick there. Not an option for lanyards, I'm afraid. The stiffness was the main reason I purchased a bunch of Chuck's rope - haven't tried it yet but I'm hopeful for better results. Bob
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Nice work on the blackening - and the shrouds. I'm sure I'll be running into the same issue with the lanyards when I get to that point and will be watching for your results. The only additional thought I have is filing a grove on the deadeye that follows the path the lanyard will take. With the deadeyes already installed that may not be advisable - and I don't really know if it would do any good. Just some thinking aloud here. I tried to remember to do that when attaching blocks, until something is actually rigged I'll have no idea if it did any good. Bob
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Fantastic build! I will be waiting for Royal Louis along with a bunch of other folks, apparently. Great job and congratulations. Bob
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Popjack - like you I noticed the internal stropping of the blocks. I decided to try drilling holes for the hooks and eyes that needed to be added to blocks. I used a #74 drill (or thereabouts) with a pinvise and CAed the hardware into the block. I have been able to do this with all the sizes of blocks included in the kit. I am using 24 gauge galvanized steel wire at the moment although some of my early attempts used the brass wire included with the kit. After getting the hooks on the blocks and hanging them on their eye (or bail or whatever) they kept annoying me by falling off with almost no provocation from me so I decided it was time to mouse them. My first attempts were pretty clumpy looking but I kept at it until I liked the look. I used Coats and Clark cotton-poly blend thread and took the strands apart to get a single filament line to use for mousing. I think my later results look pretty good. Here is a photo of the foremast top with several blocks moused in view. (If you don't want me to clutter your log with photos, let me know and I'll pull this one.) I think I had the mousing process documented in the MSW1 log, I'll have to add it to the new version if I find I haven't done it already. Bob
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Johnny For tapering spars without power tools here is a link to how I did it for my current build. Check out this post and the one following it for two different types of taper. I am just getting to the rigging phase myself, so I don't have anything to offer on that front. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/217-bluenose-by-bhermann-model-shipways-2130-164/?p=11773 Bob
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Mantua Albatross - mast rings question
bhermann replied to Jsh112bc's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
From the photos, it does indeed look like the builder wrapped the mast with a continuous length of wire. That doesn't mean you have to do it that way. Individual mast hoops is probably the better way to go. In my opinion in the absence of sails, the mast hoops should be stacked at the bottom of the mast, not magically suspended at equal spacing along the mast. Bob -
Yes, please! More detail on how the sails are done. You are showing some fine work here and the details of how you are doing it would be greatly appreciated. Bob
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You scared me with this one - then I took a closer look. Is that the band for the spring stay bail on the fore mast? There certainly is a lot of hardware up there. That hole and pin running through the mast will hold everything together. Better that you found it now that later when you are trying to rig the stay! Bob
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No progress here - just a lot of staring at sail templates and contemplation. I did take advantage of Chucks discount for MSW members and ordered up some rigging line. Maybe that will help me get out of the doldrums! Bob
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Kimberly Given the number of bumps molded into the hull, I'd say you did a very good job. As Harvey said, we are often our own worst critics and we can drive ourselves crazy trying to get everything "perfect". The good news - when you get to the larger scale Conny down the road, those bumps (which are part of the chain plates) will be separate pieces that get attached after the stripe is painted, which will make the taping off much easier. Sometimes the small scale plastic models try to put so much pre-formed detail into the mold that it makes it very difficult to work with. If you had started your taping-off experiment with the copper plating, you would have gotten a better feel for how well the process can work. There is much less in the way at that section of the hull and it is possible to get a much cleaner tape and paint line down. I agree with Harvey, take a step away for a day or two, work on something else, and then come back to this. You may find that it looks better than you think it does right now. It's always that "patience" thing . I have heard it said that patience is the most important tool in the toolbox, and the more I do this, the more I believe it. Bob
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- constitution
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Kimberly - I think I see what you mean about it being difficult to get a smooth line for the tape. I took a closer look at the photos and I see the molded bumps on the hull that fall in the middle of where the tape would run. This is one of those places where you need to go slow to get a good result. As you lay the tape down, use something to push the edge so that it forms a nice tight seal against the protrusions. There is no substitute for taking it slow. The suggestions that Harvey and Andy made about sealing the tape line before applying any white paint are good ones too. Finally - another "take your time" opportunity - it may take more than one coat of the white paint to get good coverage. Resist the notion that you need to put down one thick coat of white to get the job done. You will get a better result and less paint bleed if you do multiple thin coats, letting the paint dry between coats. It will be interesting to see how you make out with the paint pen. A steady hand might solve all your problems! Bob
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Kimberly - When painting the white stripe did you use masking tape to on the hull to prevent the white from going where you don't want it? If you run a strip below the gunports and another strip above it might make that job a bit easier. If you think of it as a white stripe running from front to back of the ship, rather than thinking of it as separate white sections between the cannon windows, it might make it easier to visualize. When you painted the copper plates did you use anything to mask off the upper section of the hull or did you do that by hand? If by hand, that is a really nice clean job! or maybe the lower part of the hull was already a copper color? Bob
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Floyd, you sly devil! Starting a second build right under the Admirals eye. I am looking at the "Flying Fish" box right now with great longing. I will be following along with this one, she has such wonderful lines. BTW, there is a 4th option - that is to do nothing at all for months at a time and call it "pondering the next steps". Bob
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- Americas Cup
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Bob The Bluenose plans that I have show a hook in the staple with a "dory tackle" rigged to it. I think what S.os and Anthony provided fills out the the detail nicely. You are probably fine to just install the staple and let it go at that. Bob
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Kimberly This looks like it will be a good study preparing for the larger scale build. I understand that having visual references works better than trying to read text. If you haven't yet, make sure to check out Jays (Modeler12) Constitution build. He has done a very good and detailed job of documenting the rigging on his build. Being able to see that might be a big help to you. I will be following along here with interest. Enjoy, and take the time to learn. This one will be better than the last, aand the next will be better than this one. Bob
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Kim Nice job on finishing up another build. Masts and rigging seem to be the main issue for many builders here, but with experience you will improve. If I could make one suggestion, it would be that you stop more often to post progress pictures and ask detailed questions about things that are driving you crazy. There really are a lot of people here who have been through what you are going through and who are more than willing to share their expertise. Model ship building is not a race and the result is rarely improved by rushing through steps or attempting things blindly on your own. Posting on your log more often will do two things. It will slow you down a bit, and give you the chance to get things clear in your mind before getting to a point where you are not completely happy with the result. I look forward to seeing your Conny get underway - stay warm - Winter is almost over! Bob
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No problem - the whole log is backed up, as I have been at this for almost seven years. I simply soldered some brass eyes (or maybe galvanized steel) out of wire, drilled holes into the spreader, glued them in and painted the whole mess white. BTW, I just looked at what you did with the toothpicks and am impressed! It is an elegant solution. In any case, feel free to ask about anything at any point. It may help someone else, and it certainly doesn't hurt me to go back over details from the past. Bob
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Hi Danny - welcome to MSW! You are certainly off to a good start, thanks for bringing us up to date on your progress. About edge gluing the planks for future builds, I highly recommend it. It adds a lot of strength and rigidity to the hull and makes for a more stable form. Doing it for all the planks, not just where the gunports are cut out, is a good idea. Looking forward to seeing your progress as you move forward. Bob
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Thanks Russ. The reason I am thinking about drawing in the hems is for scale purposes, not to avoid the sewing. At 1/64, I think anything I can do on a sewing machine will just look too big to my eye. I have read in log after log that it is best to err on the small side when adding detail. We'll see how it turns out. In any case, after I have drawn in the lines, if it looks like stitching is needed, I will at least have some guides to follow Please feel free to look at any and all parts of the log. That's one of the main reasons I have it out here. Any questions come up, please feel free to ask. If you see something I haven't explained (and there is a lot missing since the crash of MSW1), let me know that too. i tried to get the main stuff in when I re-started the log, but there is a lot that isn't here anymore. If I can still remember what I did, I'll be happy to share. Alfons - I am enjoying watching your build - we work on them when we get the time, no? Bob
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LOL - if you do order the tap and die set make sure to get both RH and LH threads - so you can make those working turnbuckles! I am not at a complete standstill - in fact my mind is going 200 mph, even though the build itself is crawling. I did manage to finish making and cutting out the templates for the sail set. Don't know if I'll use the fisherman sail, but I have it if needed. I may add a third reef band to the mainsail - it seems too large not to have the option. The sails laid out: and where they are going to: A closer look at the destination. I see the mast hoops are too thick, but I have to remember I have a few extras on the mast in case of breakage. Still working out the details of sail construction in my mind. I am pretty clear on drawing the hem lines, not stitching them. I am debating on whether to fold the hems over and glue them, or to get an iron-on edge and trim that to the actual sail size. Anyway, here are a couple of shots of where I am at the moment. Bob
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Gil Tough call to make to address the color issue - you have done it with your usual thoroughness and the end result shows it. Well done! Bob
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Well done, sir! I like the touch of storing the log along with the display. Your work is nice and clean - nice to see another one of these bad boys finished up. I am concerned about one thing - am I going to have to find a Canadian friend the vett my completed model when I get there? Maybe I'll send Sawdust a plane ticket when the time arrives Bob
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Ed What beautiful lines she has... and you have brought them out masterfully! Thanks for sharing the details and congrats on reaching this milestone. Looking forward to the next steps. Bob
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