samueljr

It's now time to tackle the quarter galleries. Sam had been kind enough to provide me with resin castings to replace the kit metal castings, but I decided to go ahead and scratch build the entire assembles from boxwood. After completing the port side gallery, I'm happy with my choice. It was mostly fun and I like the look of it.
 
The only non-scratch parts that I used were the window frames, which are the laser cut kit pieces. As can be seen from the photos, I worked progressively , first adding some counter planking, then the moldings and filler pieces below the windows, then the parts for the window framing and finally the upper and lower finishing parts. It was all pretty straight forward, except for the lower finishing, which has a variety of complex curves and was the cause for considerable foul language before I got it to fit. Hopefully, it will go easier on the second try.
 
The trick now is to duplicate, as closely as possible, all this work on the starboard side.
 
Bob

I have seen Toni's Long Boat and have taken photos for our clubs newsletter.  What it looks like with boxwood is wonderful.   You will have a blast once you get started.  Every one in the Chicago Area that I know became addicted to this model. 
David B

Well folks I am going to jump in here. I will dispense with posting any pictures of the box etc. I am sure that has been covered by the wealth of logs on this forum.
 
My recent acquisition of this kit is explained elsewhere (see Dr. Per)
 
So let me begin with my impressions and a few question for my fellow Longboat builders
 
First of all this is a 1st class kit. Extremely well designed (what else would you expect from Chuck?) and the materials are very good. I have done a trial fit of the bulkheads and they all fit very snugly with almost no adjustment.
 
I plan to use this as a learning tool. I want to experiment with Boxwood (which I have never used before). I also plan to use this as a platform to do treenailing (another item I have never attempted). I am especially interested in Chuck's method of using putty.
 
Lastly Sam has inspired me to think outside the box and so I am not sure yet how I will modify the kit from the standard provided.
 
So now some questions for those who have built this kit -
 
The Basswood sheet that contains the bulkheads is 3/32 of an inch thick. Also on this sheet are the 2 lengths for the keel & 2 rudders. is this just extras or are we intended to glue then together to get a thickness of 3/16? The same occurs on the sheet with the Stem. I have 2 stems.
 
Next question, On the 3/32 sheet with the stem there are 2 small pieces which I believe are the stern post. Again is the intent to glue them together to get more thickness. Finally there are 3 bow blocks on this sheet. I can figure out what to do with 2 bow blocks but is the 3rd one extra?
 
Last question (for now) - I see many using brass rods to mount the longboat. In particular concentric brass rods. can you tell me where you got these? this method looks quite nice.
 
A final comment, since Jeff is backed up supplying all of us builders with wood. This log may move a bit sow for the next couple of months. I started it now because this is a great opportunity to gather info from those who have gone before me. I also felt this was the best way to ask questions without cluttering someone else's build.
 
PS you should all hound Dr. Per to start his build log here too. he has agreed to do a group build with me. My local club is meeting at my house today. I am going to suggest that this would be a great club build.

David, thanks for looking in. These boats (all of them really) took on what would seem to endless configurations and modifications through their lifetimes that the possibilities are just as endless. From the start I wanted to produce something that was different (but accurate) from the "box top" photo.  It was fun trying a few different techniques and some new products I was itching to try.
 
Even being done for sometime I still read through the ongoing build logs and marvel at how wonderful everyone's models are and what a great kit this was. 
 
Sam

Well I'm Done!
 
Here are the final pics of this delightful little project............
 
I thought about listing all the changes/substitutions/additions/subtractions I made but that was turning out to be a rather long list. So, if anyone has any questions about a particular aspect feel free to ask.
 
I will say just a couple of things; 
 
First everyone should build something out of their usual subject matter on occasion. It's refreshing. It's also a chance just to relax without worry of screwing up months (if not years) of work and expense. Sometimes we get too hung up on Frigates and scarph joints and nail holes and wood types and guns and every other large and (extremely) small details found out here that we just forget to have fun. 
 
As a lot of you know I'm going through a (trying) time with a Frigate that will go unnamed and I found this side project to be just the diversion needed to remind just how much fun I have building for building sake. She's not perfect (far from it) but I'm just as proud of her as any of my builds that have a ribbon or medal to their credit.
 
Also it gave me the chance to correspond with some new and great people on MSW that I generally wouldn't be in contact with for any number of reasons. There are some really super folks out here.
 
Last but not least THANKS to Chuck for a great idea and kit design. 
 
Sam
 

I've decided on a blue ensign that will be flown from the flag halyards not at the stern.
 
Updated pics..........
 
Needs touch up and the jib sail is next.
 
I am waiting on a new anchor from Model Expo as I will be modifying it to have five arms not four.
 
Sam

More changes!!!
 
After talking with Chuck, I decided to attempt to include a detail shown on an 18th century long boat that is pictures in the amazing book 17th and 18th Century Ship Models from the Kreigstein Collection. 
 
In it a long boat is shown with a roller to starboard of the stem. This would have been used when working anchors. A temporary one of the stern would have been on a davit that was removable (see Lavery).
 
This feature would include me relocating the boawsprit assembly to the port side of the stem.  I decided to keep the inboard brace for the bowsprit running to the floor as opposed to the one pictured that rests on the thwart.
 
Sam
KRIEGSTEIN LONG BOAT.pdf

That I'd post a few more progress pics.
 
It's really just straight from the manual building at this point.
 
Sam

I seem to be attracting projects that I'm not interested in as of late (BOUNTY bashing) so here I go again................
 
After purchasing the LONG BOAT (LB) as a present for a freind I found it returned to me for lack of interest and skill on their part.
 
For some unknown reason I've decided to build it myself but thought I'd have a little bit of fun with it.
 
After confering with Chuck I proceeded forward.
 
I will be not following the finish schedule provided as the kit is based on an existing (generic) model of a class of boat(s). I read through Lavery, May and Steel and will be painting the hull differently and will be rigging the boat with a Cutter rig as per Lavery and Steel. I will be adding furled sails and possibly a few more detail elements. I want the boat to look like it works and is not a ceremonial craft. 
 
I am using Admiralty paint Read Ochre for the details. I took Chuck's friezes and having the same drawing program I switched the blue background to red. I've omitted the stern frieze all together. 
 
The white bottom is about 8 coats of Floquil grime paint.
 
I've also gone for a more natural wood look. The stock was sealed with a coat of wipe-on poly and then given a coat of cut 50/50 MiniWax Natural and Golden Oak stain. When dry this was sanded off leaving a patina of sorts to the stock. The nail heads are simply done with a sharp #2 pencil.
 
I "cheated" with the railings and just took a photo copy of the plans and glud them onto the 1/32" sheet and cut the rails that way.
 
Next up is the inboard details. I'll post more pics ASAP.
 
As I've told Chuck, I've glued my fingers together twice (already) burnt another on a plank bender and broken the stem off.
 
It's a delightful little project (diversion) from my other projects.............LOL
 
Sam

Well I'm Done!
 
Here are the final pics of this delightful little project............
 
I thought about listing all the changes/substitutions/additions/subtractions I made but that was turning out to be a rather long list. So, if anyone has any questions about a particular aspect feel free to ask.
 
I will say just a couple of things; 
 
First everyone should build something out of their usual subject matter on occasion. It's refreshing. It's also a chance just to relax without worry of screwing up months (if not years) of work and expense. Sometimes we get too hung up on Frigates and scarph joints and nail holes and wood types and guns and every other large and (extremely) small details found out here that we just forget to have fun. 
 
As a lot of you know I'm going through a (trying) time with a Frigate that will go unnamed and I found this side project to be just the diversion needed to remind just how much fun I have building for building sake. She's not perfect (far from it) but I'm just as proud of her as any of my builds that have a ribbon or medal to their credit.
 
Also it gave me the chance to correspond with some new and great people on MSW that I generally wouldn't be in contact with for any number of reasons. There are some really super folks out here.
 
Last but not least THANKS to Chuck for a great idea and kit design. 
 
Sam
 

Hi friends,
cannons for assembly on the Gun-Deck prepared.
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  4 1

Hello dear friends,
I am pleased, you like my work. Thank you a lot, your words are much appreciated.
 
Another part of Royal Caroline is completed, I have also improved some details at down part of the columns - they are shorter and have better shape. During next weeks I am going to make guns and other crew members.
Best regards and enjoy the pics
Doris
 




 

Finally finished the planking while watching the Super Bowl this past Sunday night.  Now the really fun part begins.
 

 

 

A small but fun item accomplished. I made and installed the remaining cabinetry at the stern in the Great Cabin. This consisted of the rudder head housing and two benches. They were made from boxwood sheet and strip and finished with Wipe-on Poly. The "cushions" on the benches are boxwood, shaped and then painted a maroon color. The cabinet knobs are the smallest nails that I had on hand. The penny in the first photo gives an idea of the size of these pieces.
 
Bob

Thanks Alde!
She's definitely a monster.  I've been looking forward to starting on this kit for 7 years now and am can't wait to get to the detail portion.  So many ideas running through my head.

Thanks for the input everyone. Just to show how varied opinions are, we seem to have a pretty even distribution of votes between three options, and another of going 50/50. I think now then it will come down to "Captain's choice", though the Admiralty will no doubt need to be consulted first!
 
It may well be a while before I get to make that final decision though as there are family matters to attend to this weekend, and a very busy couple of weeks at work.
 
Thanks again for the input one and all.

There are many ways to approach weathering...... Typically I will work all of the finish coats of a painted subject in something solvent based. This way I can go back over later with washes or highlighting in water based paints.... As for using the pastel chalks, which I love, they need something to grab, so a good coat of 'flat' airbrushed on, then use the ground pastel chalks. As has been noted, you can use the ground pastel chalk mixed into a medium...be it paint or thinned glue to create much heavier textures....this can be used for built up mud, rust, algae, etc.....
 
You must be delicate when sealing these with the final spray of gloss or semi-gloss as it tends to 'mute' the effect somewhat.....experiment and you will soon develop a technique that you like. A local craft or art store usually has the large box selection with a broad range of colors for a reasonable price, and the chalk sticks will last a very long time if only used as weathering agents !

Grant
 
Option #2 (the yards WERE busy) also there will be enough going on "out there" by time you're done...........
 
By the way I've been meaning to ask when your done with your VIC can you build mine 'cause it aint going to look as good as yours...........LOL!
 
Sam

Having stained a few small test pieces(roughly sanded)I noticed that using a 50/50 mix of Minwax Golden Oak and Natural produced some patchy spots whether I used the Minwax Pre-Stain or not.  I decided to compare the 50/50 mix with a mix of 1 part Golden Oak to 3 Parts Natural like Ryland Craze did on his build. I Pre-Stained the sample and waited an hour before applying the stains. The picture shows the untreated(roughly sanded)wood of the same color tone above the stained sample. The 1 to 3 mix on the left and the 50/50 mix on the right. I appears that using a lighter stain on basswood gives a better result. However, what I found was sanding the wood very smooth with 400 sandpaper before applying the stain gives good results whether using a light or dark stain.
 

 

I need to make a decision now about how to display the Yard Tackle Pendants.  Basically, I can show them "in use", by which I mean with the tackle extended and hooked into a ringbolt in the channels (which is what the kit was trying to show - I think), or I can show them "triced up" (showing the tricing lines rigged, with the tackle hooked into the futtock shrouds).  I think there is a third option, which would be to have the Tackle Pendants secured along the yard, with tricing lines removed (which I think would be their normal "sea-going" position).
 
I decided to try rigging one of each of the first two options to see what they looked like.  But before I could do that, I realised that the Long Tackle Blocks in the pendants were upside down       (oops....)  Re-doing those in situ was something of a challenge, but not too difficult.  While I was at it, I fixed the ones on the Main Yard before I got to fitting it!
 
I'd really appreciate some opinions on which version to settle on, so I took some pictures of each.  This proved to be harder than the rigging job itself!  Apologies for the poor photos - these are the best I could manage.
 
So, here are a few showing Option One - "in use" (final belaying not yet completed):
 

 

 

 
And here are a few showing Option Two "triced up" (final trimming of lines not yet complete) (Note: the brass wire is a weight to put some catenary in the tackle line):
 

 

 

 
And finally, here is a head-on shot hopefully showing both options:
 

 
So waddayareckon?  Option One or Option Two (or something completely different?)

ready

Just a quick update.  The first belt of planking below the wales has been completed P/S. 
 

 

 
Not bad so far and hopefully sanding will bring everything in line.  There will be a molding running across where the counter meets the planks in the stern.  Open framework amidships is starting to look nice!
 
Moving on now to the lower most belt starting with the garboard plank and heading up.  Holding off on stealers and drop planks until the final belt.   Will be trying some 3/16" planks, tapered, for the stern (everything else is 1/8).
 
 

Neptune, Poseidon, Nij

Chuck, after tapering the shear plank, leaving room for the cap rail to fit on top and inline with the indent on the stem. I'm wondering if this will work?

Practice may not make perfect, but it does make quicker, easier and, hopefully, better. The second side of the copper is done and I like it better. Now if I had a third side to do......... 
 
The last photo shows the copper with a coat of Floquil Flat Finish brushed on. Although it still looks quite shiny and bright, it is less so than before the flat finish was applied. Looking at my Syren of a few years back, which was finished comparably, I  expect a nice mellowing of the copper on Essex as well.
 
After finishing the copper I decided to move the model from a cradle to a brass pin mount, which is how it will be permanently mounted after completion. This involved using epoxy to install pieces of brass rod into holes drilled through the keel and slide these into brass tubing installed in a base. This will avoid contact with copper as much as possible during future construction, but still permit removal of the model, if necessary.
 
Next up will be some items that I've already done some work on, the rudder and the gun deck hatches. Other deck items will also be done after that.
 
Bob