egkb

from may i may do a daily snippet about a famous ship or person connected with Naval history

a link to one of todays snippets 
John Jervis, 1st Earl of St Vincent
 
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Jervis,_1st_Earl_of_St_Vincent

Looking Good Jason, sorry but I can't be of any help re your questions, I haven't gotten that far ahead yet, and my new builds are probably too small to have any of those rope/shroud issues, not too many catharpins on schooners I feel (one benefit of not having 'Tops' )
 
Sláinte,
 
Eamonn
 
PS Photos look great to me!

Am well pleased to hear your news Mick !
 
You take care ok
 
Eamonn

Thanks all
 
Managed not much time at all on the boat
 

 
I made and put in the window frames on what I think is a roof rather than the hatch
They will need cleaning up and then painting inside before the perspex is fitted
And I put together a couple of the plastic thingummygigs
They look bloody awful but hopefully with a bit of work and some judicious painting...............
 
Better news from the hospital
We saw my oncology nurse and she said that the new drug they will put me on if the course of chemo does nothing has had some very good results
Not just that, they have been long term remissions, so at least I have something to look forward to
Ok it may not work for me but the chances are good
Well pleased

She's coming along a treat now Mick.
Looking forward to seeing that piece painted and in position (is it what would have been the 'Main Hatch'?)
 
Sláinte
 
Eamonn

These cockpit floor boards have been a real puzzle, but after numerous attempts, I worked my way through the puzzle.  Description of the floors from Chapelle's book:  “Five floors were the most used, and many boats had none.  The floors, if used, were of plank and were placed on top of the frames rather than beside them or were located clear of the frames and fastened to keel and planking.”   
 
After numerous tries , I put the cockpit flooring aside and started working on the cabin floor.  This was easy, since there was only one plank on each side of the keel.  I like the way it turned out and I'm doing the happy dance!  

 
Here are two of the better first try cockpit flooring.  Close, but no cigar!
 

 

 
After doing the cabin flooring, the proverbial 'light bulb' went on and I figured out the cockpit flooring!  YEAH!  The height of the keel was reduced and the 'five floors' were added.  This looks so much better.  
Before I permanently add the five floors, I'm going to try adding some false frames.  Whilst these will not be 'structural', they will provide some strength to the hull planking and add visual detail. 

 
The last major detail in the cabin is the port side berth.  The angle of the fish well is not right and the berth is a bit on the narrow side.  Even though the berth will only be ~15" in scale wide, I'll add it.
 
When I started this build, I knew what I wanted this finished build to look like, I just have to figure out how to get there.  I am learning a lot and having fun!
  Thanks for stopping by, your thoughts, comments and suggestions are welcome. 
 
Dee Dee
 
Edited 11/24/2014 to add back photos that went missing

Well done Sailor, that's one of them. When marking the position of the sheave I marked the centre pin and forgot to allow for half the height of it. It's 1.3mm too low.
 
The other mistake (apart from the "ding" that Mark mentioned) is in pic #4 of my last post. I made the slot for the first chesstree too long - there shouldn't be such a large gap ABOVE the sheave. I can live with these mistakes (hardly seen by eye) but WILL learn from them .
 
Thanks Colin - the holes are empty. I was going to put blackened brass "bolts" into them but there's no point - they will be completely covered by the Sheer Rail.
 
Thanks also for the nice comments David and Jan.
 
  Danny

Hi all,
I am still working on the deck. The jogging is not coming out as I had hoped and I am reworking it... again.
 
Meanwhile, I found this video on a different site and thought it might be of interest. It is time lapse of a full size tall ship being built. One of the things I liked is it helped me better understand the scale of models to a full size ship.
 

 
Hope you enjoy it.
 
Richard

Latest Update Hot off the Press..
 
Bulkhead Fillers are almost done, just have the Aft most pair to do tomorrow (those between No 10 & 11 B/Heads, they will need to be tapered to fit No 11 as it slopes backwards)
They have really made the whole structure rigid! I feel now that I can bevel away happily without having to pick bits of bulkhead up from the floor, ah jeez! there are those 'famous last words again..'
 
Will hopefully have some photos tomorrow as it is too dark here at present.
 
Thanks for checking in folks.
 
Sláinte
 
Eamonn

Neat work Jason, the top looks  great.
 
Re the deadeye seizing; in practice the line was crossed behind the shroud on the port side and forward of the shroud starboard side. and secured with a throat seizing. The deadeye lanyards passed through the bight so formed between the deadeye and the shroud seizing before being secured.
 
It is an added complication and at smaller scale may not be considered worth the effort; I use a temporary seizing close to the deadeye to hold it in place whilst I do the proper seizing.
 
The Futtock stave was made of rope but for modelling purposes I think brass rod served with line gives a better security for the futtocks whilst maintaining a reasonably  genuine look.
 
I'm not sure that the 'stretcher' or 'squaring' staff referred to in the post above featured on British warships of the period., but certainly sheer poles were commonly seen on ships of the mid nineteenth century; clippers such as the Cutty Sark come to mind.
 
I think attaching the Futtock Stave  before rattlin' down  is a good idea, as is the initial fitting of a few ratlines at intervals to help maintain the shroud line. There is an ever present danger of pulling the shrouds out of line and anything to counter this must help.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Thanks everybody!
 
And now for another in the series of Andy's Endless Photos of White Plastic Thing-ies (or The Monochromatic Build Log), the second boom side truss is now complete, and symetrical to the first (or as close as I care to get it lacking a scanning electron microscope and a ruler to measure micrometers....).
 
Yes, my mind is a little warped this morning, as you would expect. When this project is finally finished, if I so much as see another piece of styrene angle...
 
I'm going to have to wait on a few parts to arrive before I go much further.... I have no desire to manufacture 24 plastic sheaves for the topping lift, especially since there are commercially available bits that can hopefully save what's left of my sanity.... (what little there is)...
 
There's still a boat-load of other details to deal with.
 
 
Andy
 

Thanks all.  Chuck has added the icing on the cake with the short soak for the twist !
 
I'm just happy if it gives anyone an idea or two.

Thanks for the image DFellingham.
 
I had a rummage through Lever, and did a little experimentation. I found in the end I prefered the crossed catharpin, even if it might not be the most accurate method, it seemed to work the best in securing the futtocks at the main top mast.
 
Moved onto ratlines on the mizzen top mast. These are surprisingly difficult due to the shrouds being thinner in this area. The issues of twisting the shroud are more evident as I tighten the clove hitches.
 
Finally, I have made a stab at the first back stay on the fore top mast. Got all the rigging together and hooked into the channel ok. The blocks and the rigging of the stay seem to press against the deadeyes and lanyards a touch. Is it correct that the back stay would be 'outside' of the shrouds down to the channel, with the loose end of the rigging crossing under the last ratline in order to be belayed?

Looking good Eamonn. I might have to go back to my Ballahoo soon as you'll ovetake me very shortly....!

Thanks Christian, David, Yambo and Pat .
 
 
Pat, believe it or not just the plastic top from a nail packet. It isn't totally clear, which gives the more textured look of old-type glass .
 
  Danny

Cap Square Making
 
Finally, I got sometime on my update after such a long while. This is done like 2 weeks ago, and now I'm slowly putting up my works here...

I started working on it once my copper sheet arrived, and also made a jig to help on. Here's it is.. a short one tho  
 

 
I cut a 2mm strip from it.
 

 
 And with the aid of my jig to create the curve on it.

 

 
To save time, I made them only for those exposing on the deck. Total of 20 guns, so 40 cap square.

 
I also added nail detail to it, and continued to blacken.
 

 
Thanks for viewing! 
 

I've received several PM's on how the spiling/edge bending jig I presented is working at the bow.  In response, I've taken a few photos that I'll present here.
 
Let me state that this is not to be taken as a tutorial .  It is simply how I do it.
 
You should remember what our bent/spiled planks look like after drying in the jig detailed by Chuck:
 

 
The forward tip of the plank is beveled to fit securely into the rabbet.  Then, the tip and about 3/8" of the side of the plank contacting the adjacent plank above it are glued securely in place.  It needs to be completely dry and tight as it will take some stress in establishing the bow curve of the plank.  I use thick CA  to do this as it is strong and easy to control:
 

 
A different view just to show how unusual it looks at this point.  The blue tape is just there to protect the finished wale:
 

 
The loose end of the plank is now gently bowed and lightly twisted into position and glued flat to the bulkheads.  Notice that the tendency to lift at the lower edge has been defeated:
 

 
Finally, the plank is glued to the remaining bulkheads:
 

 
Granted there are some irregularities but these should be mostly eliminated with careful sanding.  Laying this plank took about 15 minutes (not including the spiling/bending/drying time).
 
Overall, I'm pleased with the technique.  Hope this explains it!
 
 
 
 

I dunno... Ratlines: check spacing, tie knot, tie another knot, tie more knots, repeat.
 
Trusses: measure spacing, confirm spacing, square end of styrene angle, repeat because knife slid while cutting, brace truss in floating jig to ensure straightness, mark angle to cut top of cross member, cut cross member, (if you're lucky it fits right the first time, if not repeat), tack ends of cross member with glue, confirm allignment, spacing and squareness, adjust as needed, finish gluing ends....
 
I think ratlines are starting to look like a vacation......
 
Andy

I've constructed the wheel house and companionway for the Aft deck. I haven't mounted them to the deck yet.

Completely agree Craig, a very nice looking bit of work going on there!
 
Thanks for the photo Lawrence, and it goes very well with your previous text, it does seem to be very 'Rabbet' like, and as such is indeed something which I will be doing (after 2nd planking in fact, to give a better idea as to where to put it exactly)
 
Remember Folks All advice is welcome no matter how trivial you may think it is.
 
Thanks in Advance
 
Sláinte
 
Eamonn
 
Hopefully will be able to get some Filler Blocks done in the next day or two.. pictures to follow soon after

Just some photos of the latest additions (to go with my Post No. 32 above).. All the Bulkheads are glued in position, the deck is only 'dry-fitted' to assist in aligning the B/Heads.
 
In the Stern on shot, you may just be able to make out the 'thinning' of the Keel where the Stern Post will go to assist later planking (it is the beginnings of the Rabbet) but following great advice I haven't extended the Rabbet forward, this won't be done until 2nd planking (Thanks again to all those who are helping me along, it is much appreciated!)
 
Sláinte,
 
Eamonn
 
 

This picture is amazing, not only because it is a beautiful boat being hand-built, but it is... in the person's kitchen!  I sense a very, very dedicated and tolerant partner lurking somewhere out of frame!
cheers
--cb

Thought so... Ahem Ahem, you can see why I'm no longer at sea..
 
Eamonn

After several weeks of interruption due to traveling I finally resumed work on the head rail of my Syren model.  Upper rails and middle rails are finished, and I started with the head timbers. I am using the method described by Chuck in the instruction book. Building those head timbers is a bit tricky and clearly not my favorite occupation!
Below are different views of the current state of the head rail.
 
Thomas
 

Backboard view
 
 
 

Top view
 
 

Front view
 
 

Starboard view