Wintergreen

If it works for you, it definitely works for us as bystanders 🙂 Fiddly work nevertheless. Keep it up!

Nice work! It resembles these big canoes you sometimes see, with like 16 native people in them. Interesting. Keep it up!

Amazing detailing!

That chair looks in dire need of some oil here and there, and a good polish 😄 Just splendid! Of course it should look like that. Keep it up!

Looks like a very acceptable hull now! Never heard of a product like that, but it seemed to do the trick well for you.

One does not fully appreciate the size of this model until you let it linger beside an enormous iron or, like on the previous page chuck in a ruler. One nothing else is present in the pictures it is easy to forget that it's only like 6.5" or some 135mm long. I have but one word - Amazing skill (oh, that was actually two words, well well)

It starts to look busy now, Bolin. Quite some skeleton. Looking good. Keep it up!

Bowsprits can have they're back end fastened between to sturdy vertical bits. But design varies of course. As for filler, I would use fine filler from the hardware store. The one you use for covering up nails in trimmings and such. Usually sold in plastic tubes.

I think it's twofold if you should leave the planking or rip it off. Leaving it on pays credit to your sons work and it doesn't look that bad from what I can see in the pictures. Putty, sanding and paint and will all look splendid. If you rip it off, where to end the "rebuild"? 😉 As for planking stock I have no real input. My next ship will be planked with birch but it all depends on what is available and cost.

1.1. Preparing for lofting frames To address the issue of “Lines to outside of planking” work started over. The body plan was traced yet again, this time with correct width or breadth. To move all station lines to inside of planking the offset function was used. It creates a line offset by the distance you type in, taking into account curves and all. There is however one disadvantage with the offset, or any of the other “line copy” functions. It creates a line with a myriad of nodes, or control point. Se picture below with the traced line and then the line created with the offset function. The effect of this is that nothing can be done with this line. It is not feasible trying to adjust it or so but the solution is quite simple, just trace a new line on top of the offset line and remove the offset created line. Now we have a line that can be tampered with without too much headache. Rinse and repeat and all station lines have been moved 65 mm inwards in a nick of time. Next step will be a new half breadth plan where water lines start from the inner rabbet line and follow the inside of planking. It is straight forward. Remember to hit CTRL+S to save your work every now and then. TurboCad dies on me once in a while and recently I lost last some half hours’ worth of work. Be sure to use the curve tool that goes through its control points, not the other one. That will leave you with a host of problems later. Once the new half breadth plan is done, fairing comes next. Even though the Bezier tool creates nice curvy lines it can’t for example foresee the shape of a counter stern on a boat. Next picture highlights some areas that needs direct attention. On top of the plan is the created water lines. Close to the centerline it is obvious that water lines 7½ and up needs addressing. But look further up also, especially 6½ and 8 have unsightly bumps and dents. If left there is always the possibility to fair the wood frames once installed. But that will create an erroneous shape on the transom in that it will be pointy. Around the centerline the transom should be smooth and round, not sharp with an edge. After some fairing and adjusting the lines plan is finished. Next up will be lofting all frames. A quite repetitive task but better get used to it since there will be more of that down the line. As I've mentioned before, anyone interested in a more detailed instruction regarding lofting in CAD should read the work of @wrkempson found here: https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/DraftingShipPlansInCAD.pdf It is really good and instructive. Thanks for your interest in this and please keep on asking and discussing. Much appreciated!

Honestly John, I have no idea. Busy doing chores probably? So what do I need to do, call you 😉 Jokes aside, thank's for popping by. Much appreciated. note2self - check up that ant's pyjamas 😏

That was quick going! Did you build it in just about 4 weeks? Incredible. And a interesting alteration with guns and Jolly Roger 🙂 Well done!

Not to speak about a regular carpenters workbench... designed for right-handed people. You could of course build your own like Mark (Sjsoane), but that is taking it to another level. I've trained my right side so I practically can do almost everything that way. It does not feel that comfortable though. Apart from brushing ones teeth hadn planing is the hardest. Especially edges and bevels.

Well you know the saying @druxey, that prominent people arrive late 😉 You're most welcome. There are refreshments in the kitchen and enjoy your stay 😁

Just stumbled upon your thread here. That planking is seriously good! Well done, mate! As for the order of building, like you did with full width deck beams for rigidity is just the way. Frames and hulls can be delicate business and anything that makes them more rigid during building is a welcome addition. Also the framing of the cockpit looks spot on. Keep it up!

A 28 ft cutter at 1:48 - that will be kind of tiny. But then again, what else to except from an expert 😉 I will follow with interest. The hull looks promising judging from the drawing. Also, from what I can see I guess it will be carvel planked?

iieeeewww, those gory buckets of ...remnants. Spot on! Even the smudges on the decking 🙂 And that small, green tarp wrapped over something. All wrinkely and worn. So good. Didn't see that before. Keep it up!

That makes sense @wefalck, definitely no tar (self explanatory in fact). Albeit, about the kåg, it was a work boat so I have little faith in that they were meticulously kept. Maybe I'll give them a light wash. But before any painting there is a rubrail to add. After that comes variious hardware and the rudder.

Building continues. Focus last couple of days was to permanently glue the inwale. But before that the masts needed to dealt with. The fore mast sits at the after edge of the main thwart and the mizzen mast is just stepped through a hole in the last thwart. Both masts have a peg or tenon at the bottom end. Both masts stands unsupported by shrouds and stays. Dimension are as follows. Main mast - length 25', diam at thwart height 5½", diam at top 3". That translates to 254 mm x 4,7 mm and 2,5mm. Mizzen mast - length 19', diam at thwart 4". Translates to roughly 192mm x 3,3mm. Made a small jig to accommodate easier planing. This is actually a quite good fit 🙂 Don't mind the dust, it is after all Work In Progress 😉 Trying out main mast support. After the supporting semi circle is filed in the thwart masts are both plumb and at correct angle. Main mast almost vertical and mizzen a slight lean aft. Now I could fasten the thwarts and glue the inwale in place. As mentioned before, the foremost thwart and the one in the middle are removable. I even made the jib boom while I was at it, 16½' long and thin. Only used in lighter winds. As can be seen I haven't painted the details and maybe I won't. I kind of like the contrast of the natural apple to the rugged hull. What do my followers think? And as always, thanks for likes and comment! Much appreciated 🙂

John, Tony and Jim - thank you and welcome to this show of "slow TV" 😄 Tony, good of you to mention the use of same CAD sw. I'll remember to add the specific features I use and all others will have to adapt that to their preferred CAD sw. Yes Jim, the ship is quite big and at 1:30 the hull will be almost 870 mm with a breadth of 210 mm. I figure it will be quite handy to build. Not too small and not too big. And my previous to boats are at 1:30 also, the Regina and the kåg. Speaking og the kåg, better head out to the shop and continue... Cheers!

Quite impressive work at 1:48 on a ship that is just above 40' long between perpendiculars. I guess they were almost 50' LOD? And two at the same time, wow. Edit. That peculiar stern... it looks inspired by Asian boats. Do you happen to know why they have that striking feature? Keep it up!

1. Plans and drafting I will not delve into too much detail about this process, instead I suggest anyone interested to have a look in Waynes document. What I will do is to point out my own challenges, retakes, and mistakes. That’ll be fun (they said) 😉 As previously mentioned, the plans are scanned originals in PDF format. Through some online service I had them converted to PNG, which I understand is the desired format (after BMP) for images with great detail. Both PNG and BMP are uncompressed formats, therefore retaining sharp images even when blown up beyond full scale. The CAD software I use is Turbo CAD Deluxe version 20. It is a reasonable priced software for those without too big ambitions. It says it can handle 3D but I’ve never got my head around using it so I stay in 2 dimensions. These are the plans I got: Lines plan with body, sheer and half breadth plans. Construction drawing showing all major details as frames, deck beams, mast supports, deck and side planking, deck openings and what not. Sail plan Finally, a big PDF with mast and hardware. Several pages long. The process of drafting is to take the lines plan first, load into your CAD software and trace all lines of the sheer and body part and leave out the half breadth plan with all its waterlines. Make sure you have the loaded image in correct size. It usually takes a little fiddling about. I used the length between perpendiculars, because I couldn’t really understand the body plan. More on that later… Next you create a new half breadth plan from your traced body and sheer. Corrections need to be made when you see uneven waterlines, and these corrections propagate back through the body plan all the way to the sheer plan. When you are satisfied dump the body plan and all corresponding station lines on the sheer plan. Add new stations and draft a new body plan. Easy peacy. I then took the sheer plan into a new drawing and added the image of the construction plan. The first goal was to create the center line with keel, false keel, keelson, stem, stem pieces, stern, deadwood and all that. I noted that the two drawings weren’t too far off one another which was good. On the construction plan the rabbet was presented and so I added that to my center line. I took a while to disassemble the structure. One challenge when using the polyline to trace parts is that what looks like a piece is actually a void. Like the small triangular deadwood piece closest to the inner sternpost. Such things become obvious when you explode your drawing. I keep the perpendiculars and waterline to always have a common reference point when moving between drawings. Next I was to start drafting al frames, 47 all in all. The first one sits at the sternpost, like in this picture. The last frame sits at the junction between the keel and the stem. Forward of that is just bollard timbers, which I don’t really know how to fasten to the hull. The stern is made up of every so much timber there can be. The square-ish timber in the lower left is the fashion piece rising up from the sternpost. Just as I was about to start with the frames I came to a full stop. Something wasn’t quite right. To loft frames one uses the half breadth plan and the sheer plan. The half breadth plan gives you the width of each frame at any given waterline and the sheer gives you the height at any given station/frame line. However, when I was to start with the foremost frame (because they are simple) things didn’t add up. I couldn’t get the waterlines to create a frame for me and I also lacked the rabbet line. Suddenly one thing caught my attention. This is a close up of the stem. Notice how the waterlines all meet the stem very far forward? The only reasonable reason I could think of is that instead of waterlines depicting the shape at the inside of the planking all lines were of the outside! Sure enough, what do you say – sometimes your eyes clouds your vision? Yellow highlighted by me. Say no more. That’s why the waterlines come all the way forward. And also my body plan needs to be re-done. Sigh. But like a chain event I suddenly understood why I had troubles with the body plan. This is a magnification of a part of the body plan. The vertical, straight leftmost line is the square that defines the “body”. But no station goes all the way out, why? Simply because the extreme breadth of the ship falls between two station lines. Not like on old drawings where station 0 is at the extreme breadth. Some things are just plain obvious once you revisit them 😉 How to proceed? First I need to re-trace the body plan and make a new half breadth plan. When that is done I can take the body plan and do a line copy of each station at 65 mm inwards. 65 mm is the thickness of the planking. With this new body plan I can then make a new half breadth plan. Just doing a straight line-copy enters a slight error because the inner line is a tiny bit smaller. Think circles inside circles. I will play around in my CAD sw to see if I can remedy this. And when that is done - Then I can start lofting frames! Why didn’t the draftsman just draw to the inside of planking? Probably because the lines come from Gratitude, the sister ship, and that they measured her up to create drawings for Atlantica.

Preface §1 Expectation management It will be quite some time before any sawdust is made here, probably not before late fall. If you wonder when that is, well, that is October where I’m located at about 58 degrees north. Maybe already in 2021...we will see… §2 Pogress To quote @mtaylor: “The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." For you as an audience, I urge you to stack up properly with fizzy drinks and popcorn, because this will take some time. However, there are a couple more boats I like to build down the line; hence this build will not take forever, hopefully. §3 The builder - me Just on the upside of half a century old, maintaining a full time day job, summer holidays spent sailing, managing five to seven kids (or actually young adults now) and half a handful of grand kids I will disappear from time to time. See §2. §4 The captain is always right. Period. §5 In the unlikely event that the Captain is wrong – refer to §4. §6 The ship When investing so much time and effort into any project there needs to be something that makes you “tick”. There is no shortage of plans and kits of almost any kind of ship. Af Chapman comes to mind, but he will appear later in my boat building career. We have a plethora of leisure crafts, mainly small. Our Swedish constructors didn’t draw them like Fifie of Scotland, GL Watson or NG Herreshoff, the Wizard from Bristol RI. My mind finally went for Atlantica. Atlantica is a gaff rigged ketch of English smack heritage. Built in Denmark and launched 1980. The main mast is cutter rigged, meaning it has more than one head stay. It also has a bowsprit. More details and specifications for the ship, see below. The ship is in full service today as a sail training vessel owned and maintained by SXK Seglarskola (SXK Sailing School) which is a sub-branch of the Swedish Cruising Association - SXK (Svenska Kryssarklubben). More information about the Sailing School can be found here: http://www.sxkseglarskola.se/ The site is in Swedish but use Chrome browser and Google translate. The site translates really well. Needless to say I’m a member of said Cruising association and have know of Atlantica and her sisters for a long time. §7 Type of ship – English smack For some reason I’ve been attracted to this type of hull form, mostly known as a pilot cutter. It has a straight, almost vertical stem, a keel that slopes considerably from stem to stern, a large rudder and either a cut of transom or rounded one. The hull is quite narrow with one mast flying a gaff main sail and topsail. Add to that three headsails and a retractable bowsprit and it makes a handsome vessel. The hull and sail area makes for a fast and seaworthy vessel, which was a demand for piloting. It was a race to get to the merchant ships, first come – first served, any day of the year in any weather. The smack was used in dredging and fishing and was very similar in hull form to the pilot cutter because it also needed speed under sail. First, it takes speed to be able to tow the dredger. From what I’ve read it needs to be above 2 knots. Secondly, when fishing is done, the race was to get home first and land the best deals on the fish market. As with any evolution the smack was not so big from the beginning but grew over time. When the boom grew too large they went from cutter rigged to be ketch rigged. However, as a type, they weren’t that big, usually under 75’ or ca 25 m length on deck. In their hay-day at the end of 1880 the smacks were counted in thousands. 1887 there were just above 3000 registered smacks sailing out of Grimsby, Hull and Brixham. At the turn of the century Grimsby had only 34 left, Hull none. What was the reason for the quick decline? The industrial revolution with steam powered boats swiftly killed the sail powered competition. Back to sailing, a smack usually had a crew of four to five men and a boy, hence the boats could not grew too large. · The ships boy also with cooking duties. Signing on at 12 years of age. Apprentice for 5 to 7 years. Did not get paid usually. · Deck hand, also an apprentice. Had some pay, but not much. · Third hand, an able seaman that was given responsible for watches alone. · First mate, captains right hand. Could take full responsible for the ship. · Master, or captain. Answered only to God when at sea and when in port answered to the ship owner. §8 The ship – Atlantica The name is from one of the sponsors, an insurance company. She is built on the lines of her sister ship Gratitude, albeit a fair bit bigger. Again, see http://www.sxkseglarskola.se/ and menu item “Fartygen”. Gratitude is the real deal. She originates from Lowestoft, after her fishing career sold to Sweden and rebuild for cargo carrying. Atlantica, main specifcations Length on deck: 85’ or 26,2 m Length on spars: - Breadth moulded: 20½’ or 6,27 m Breadth extreme: 21’ or 6,4 m Depth: 10½’ or 3,2 m Sail area: 5810 sqf or 540 sqm Displacement: 134 tonnes No of bunks: 32 Building material: oak on oak with laid deck of keruing §9 Plans and other sources In short - a book and a bunch of PDFs’. Why, or where I got the book I can’t remember. I used it to spice up the hull of Regina (see my signature), my previous build back in early 1990, that I know. The book is in all essential a build log but in printed format and from 1980 well before internet forums. It is full of b/w images and short descriptions to each picture. What about plans then? Yes, after a fairly short search I was directed to a fellow model builder. He was involved in the process of the Atlantica build and had gained access to all relevant plans as scanned to PDF. He sent me the lot free of charge! To show my gratitude I donated a sum for the new main mast of Gratitude. The mast came tumbling down when out on an autumn sail this last fall. No one was hurt and not too much damage either bar the mast. With the help of CAD I have already started to draft the ship. I use Wayne Kempsons’ treatise on “Drafting ship plans in CAD” as a guide. See https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/DraftingShipPlansInCAD.pdf For the actual layout I will look at the plans from EdTs’ book Naiad. §10 It feels good to end the preface in double figures Tools and equipment might be of interest. At the moment I do not own a miniature table saw, no small lathe or a fancy milling station. But what I do have is a full size jointer, a full size planer, a full size (2 m) band saw, full size table saw that can take blades of 12” diameter, a wood lathe and a drill press. The lathe can be converted to a disc sander and a thickness sander and for the table saw I will source some thin blade, probably 1,5 mm to try to mill delicate planks. Fall back solution will be a fine tooth blade for the band saw and then a couple of runs through the thickness sander. In the future I might buy me a Proxxon table saw since the Byrnes one is out of reach with VAT and shipping. Until then I’ll make do with what I have. In addition to that I have a cupboard of ordinary carpenters hand tools. So it will be down to basic skills and a lot of trial and errors during this build. Let the work begin! Index 1. Plans and drafting 1.1. Preparing for lofting frames 1.2. Frame lofting party

Blind me! I thought the big schackel was a challenge and then there is an even smaller one linked to the chain. Just wow! Splendid work!

And I thought that the holiday season was well over? How wrong was I? A perfectionist may dislike the exterior hull with all the creases and unevenness, but to my eye that looks quite perfect. It looks like the ship has been in commission for quite some time and that the hull has been painted and repainted due to wear and tear. Great look actually! Keep it up!