keelhauled

Boat time again!
 
I had previously attached the boats to the chalks and checked it's location and fit of the supports with the pinrails.  I continued with adding the lines and chains, fastening the boats to the eyebolts.   As you can see, I did the work off the ship using some plastic containers to allow me easy access to all of the eyebolts.  The next step will be adding the studding sail yards, spars, and accommodation davit.  If I can fit all of that stuff on the beams. 

 

 

 


 
 

They are available in several different sizes.  I have sizes ranging from 3 inches to about 9 inches long.  really nice.  the scissors have saved me a few times.  Like all tools, they range in quality and costs.  You get what you pay for.  More important with the scissors in my experience.  cheap ones weren't too good- cutting edges had some irregularity when the two surfaces met.  the expensive ones were razor sharp and perfect alignment. 

Beautiful work.  Beautiful work space.  I look forward to following your progress!
best
marc

Beautiful work.  Beautiful work space.  I look forward to following your progress!
best
marc

They are available in several different sizes.  I have sizes ranging from 3 inches to about 9 inches long.  really nice.  the scissors have saved me a few times.  Like all tools, they range in quality and costs.  You get what you pay for.  More important with the scissors in my experience.  cheap ones weren't too good- cutting edges had some irregularity when the two surfaces met.  the expensive ones were razor sharp and perfect alignment. 

Thank you for the advice Backer I have made another filler block in the next frame along and can see from that the shape of the bow is wrong  easily fixed with a little sanding. 

hello everyone,
 
thanks for your support Harry!  I've been learning to use the lathe.  I've been accomplishing turning threads at the correct pitch and turning rods to the correct diameter within a 1/10000 of an inch. I have a way to go to before tackling anything of substance.  working on skills.  I'd like to make some parts for my tiny wood working lathe (like a following rest) and make some jigs for modeling.  Eventually I want to turn the ships bells, stanchions for the rails, sheaves and maybe cannon and  belaying pins. 
 
Sorry, I haven't posted.  Unfortunately, I've been working long hours as a result of COVID-19 and when I've had time off, I wasn't overly productive and didn't feel like being in front of a computer screen.  I don't think I checked email more than once a month.   Anyway, I have worked on the Model some when I can get myself motivated - seem to be in a funk and extremely tired.  Then I moved my home work environment from my house in Virginia to my house in Florida for the month. 
 
On to rigging - 
I continued work on rigging the mainmast.  I continued with rigging the ratlines, using templates created for both sides.   

 
The template is designed to be up against the shrouds to align the ratlines. The view of the template isn't aligned with the ratlines in the photo (its leaning against the mast, so the ratlines don't line up with the correct template lines. 
  
You might notice that there are two groups of lines red and black.  I screwed up which was evident when I checked the port and starboard alignment and height above the deadeyes.  The red lines are the corrections to the spacing. 
 

 
port side

 
some views of the foremast and the pin rails. You can see the serving of the main stay.
 

 

 
a view of the fore top from aft.  can see the 

 
Next is some work on the ship's boats
thanks
Marc

Sorry to hear about the water!!
 
Very nice work on the ship!!  I'm always inspired seeing your creativity!
 
best wishes
marc

Wow Harry!  What a great build!
 
Your cases are also works of art!  You should do a tutorial on building cases.
 
very jealous of your skills. 
best,
marc 

Wow Harry!  What a great build!
 
Your cases are also works of art!  You should do a tutorial on building cases.
 
very jealous of your skills. 
best,
marc 

O.k.
Trying to get back into it.... It's been a while, that's o.k.
In between getting the house ready for sale, buying another, no one can move given the current climate....
 
So, pulled out the Rudder/Sternpost and associated components.
 
Sternpost is at least 10mm too long so carved out the first layer of planking to accept, still too long so will have to make the Keel a bit thinner.
Once I have things fitting, I'll try to "Articulate" the Rudder.
Doesn't look to flash at this time....
(Second Planking can then follow.)
 
A couple of photos....
 
Cheers....HOF.
 
 
 
 
 

Your ant work is beautiful and interesting in many ways thanks for sharing it. i did make crucial miatakes on my path and i am not shy to admit it. why should i be? i dont like taking this hobby as some kind of competition in the moment i do passion and fun dies for me. im happy i can elarn from skilled ones but i think boat of everyone is just bwutiful in its own artisticalyl and technically way because everyone is different. fair wind to our cape horners  Vlad 

hello everyone,
 
thanks for your support Harry!  I've been learning to use the lathe.  I've been accomplishing turning threads at the correct pitch and turning rods to the correct diameter within a 1/10000 of an inch. I have a way to go to before tackling anything of substance.  working on skills.  I'd like to make some parts for my tiny wood working lathe (like a following rest) and make some jigs for modeling.  Eventually I want to turn the ships bells, stanchions for the rails, sheaves and maybe cannon and  belaying pins. 
 
Sorry, I haven't posted.  Unfortunately, I've been working long hours as a result of COVID-19 and when I've had time off, I wasn't overly productive and didn't feel like being in front of a computer screen.  I don't think I checked email more than once a month.   Anyway, I have worked on the Model some when I can get myself motivated - seem to be in a funk and extremely tired.  Then I moved my home work environment from my house in Virginia to my house in Florida for the month. 
 
On to rigging - 
I continued work on rigging the mainmast.  I continued with rigging the ratlines, using templates created for both sides.   

 
The template is designed to be up against the shrouds to align the ratlines. The view of the template isn't aligned with the ratlines in the photo (its leaning against the mast, so the ratlines don't line up with the correct template lines. 
  
You might notice that there are two groups of lines red and black.  I screwed up which was evident when I checked the port and starboard alignment and height above the deadeyes.  The red lines are the corrections to the spacing. 
 

 
port side

 
some views of the foremast and the pin rails. You can see the serving of the main stay.
 

 

 
a view of the fore top from aft.  can see the 

 
Next is some work on the ship's boats
thanks
Marc

So I haven't been setting the world on fire. But I have gotten a couple of items assembled. It always amazes me how I can work for hours and not have much to show.  It's the journey and not the destination! right?! 
 
So I've assembled the ships wheel

 
It's not pictured, but I ended up painting the brass cap at the top of the handle.  The wheel was very light, so I applied several coats of dark walnut stain.
 
The kit didn't include the fire bucket rail, so I built one.  I purchased the buckets. I made the rail as close as I could to the actual ship's rail.  Different photos of the ship over the years show slightly different arrangements of the buckets as does the different plans. I went with what made the most sense based on the size of the buckets that I had. .  I drilled holes through the uprights, through the rails and the tops. Then I put bronze pins through the assemblies in an attempt to give it some strength.  When I was drilling the holes for the buckets I evenly spaced them.  Dumb, I forgot to adjust the spacing for the spindles.  I realized after it was all glued in place.  It will be a mistake that I can live with. 
 
 The photo is of the assembly almost finished.  The tops weren't glued in place, so there is some misalignment in the photo

 
I also built the hen coops. The coops are kit bashed to match the actual ones.  The kit had brass pins going around the coop with no door.  The actual coops have sides and doors in the front.  Although they aren't pictured here, I also put the rings on the sides which tie down the coops to the deck.
 

 
Thanks for the feedback!

PLANKING THE FRAME

The model kit has attaching the sub decking into place as
the next step.  So with the frames having been securely glued into place I tried placing the sub decking into place.  I found that the decking would form to the contour of the bulkheads without requiring any soaking in water.  I dry fitted everything and then glued the joints.  To secure the deck to the bulkheads I used an amazing clamp – the rubber band!  I love these as a clamping device and use them when I can.


I followed the next step in the instructions which was to plank the frame.  I’ve since learned that life would have been much easier if I had planked the deck!  In fact, many professional modelers suggest planking the deck before the hull.  I wished that I had.  Such is learning.


The Amati ship vise is holding the ship in the following pictures.  It is by far one of the best investments that I’ve made.  I highly recommend it.  It clamps to the keel.  If you place dowls into the mast steps, you can clamp the hull upside down.  The clamp swivels and tilts.  It’s awesome.


Before planking the ship I follow a recommendation found in several articles that were written by Robert L. Evans for Ships in Scale (Upgrading the Kit Part 1, May/June 1994).   One suggestion was to use balsa wood as a filler to make up for the lack of an adequate number of bulkheads supplied with kits.  I found in other articles that the lack of an adequate number of frames or bulkheads in the models often results in concave dips in the hull, especially with ships that have flat runs such as clippers!  So two solutions were put forth create additional bulkheads or use balsa as a filler.  I chose to use balsa filler blocks per Evans example. 



 


 
This model is double planked.  The nice part about double planking is that you can practice on the first planking.  Since there are numerous sources for planking, I won’t go into any detail.  I used a palm nailer and lil-pins to do the first planking. 
 
The second planking went very fast. I used contact cememt to secure the second planking instead of pins/nails. The model kit used vertical boards to create the curve of the counter as opposed to creating the curve with bending planks around the curve.  Since I was going to paint the ship and the fact that the counter was iron, I wasn’t concerned with how the curve was made, just that the it was made accurately.


 

Hi everyone, 
here is the reason that I haven't been working on the ship since June.
 
Here is the lathe when I started.  I was just going to clean it up some and put it on a bench.

 
Here is what it looked like five months later
 

I started by just doing some cleaning.   Then, before I knew it, I had disassembled the lathe down to the bed!!!  It become one of those projects where the more you get into it, the deeper you get.  I took just about everything completely apart, stripped it to the bear metal. 

 
 
Here is the apron.  several coats of flaked paint.  Levers and gears aren't smooth and hard to use.

The  back of the apron.  surface rust, caked oil and dirt filling the gear teeth.  blocked oil paths. 

 
Apron disassembled and taken to the bare metal


  I was hoping that it all went back.  Notice the collection of labeled zip lock bags.  I photographed each component in-place before removing it, then removed the component and placed it into its own labeled bag. 
After complete cleaning, painting, new felts, new oilers, and reassembly.  the wheel and all of the levers and gears operate very smoothly

Here the lathe is on the table that I built for it.  I wanted to have the table on castors so that I could move it around, but I wanted the stability of it resting on legs. I couldn't find a solution online that didn't have complaints.  I actually built the table so that it could rest on cribbing (boards) that lift the table off of its castors. I use a hydraulic car jack that lifts one side of the table high enough for me to slide cribbing consisting of 2"X 8" boards formed like a "U" that supports the table.  It only take about 4 pumps on the jack to lift it to the correct height.  It takes less than a minute to do both sides.  In this photo the table is actually siting on this cribbing, not the castors.

I made two carts that slide under the table.  I'm able to store most of the tools and accessories in these carts. The slot at the top of the cart on the left holds four chucks and the collet draw bars.

On the back of the carts, I store all of the oils needed (5 different types) and various tools that don't fit well in the drawers.

I'm very happy with the results!   One change with the tops of the carts - i placed a soft oil resistant mat on the tops.
Now I need to learn how to use the lathe!!!😲

Hi Harry, Tim, and Grant!
 
thank you for your kind comments.
 
Grant, your comment hits close to home.  The first time that I oiled everything and fired up the lathe to make sure everything was working, I was dismayed to see the gleaming surfaces become covered with oil.😲
 
 
I finished the table in January.
 
So back to the ship!!!  I've been doing some rigging during this month. 
 
Thank you for your patience!
Marc

Hi everyone, 
here is the reason that I haven't been working on the ship since June.
 
Here is the lathe when I started.  I was just going to clean it up some and put it on a bench.

 
Here is what it looked like five months later
 

I started by just doing some cleaning.   Then, before I knew it, I had disassembled the lathe down to the bed!!!  It become one of those projects where the more you get into it, the deeper you get.  I took just about everything completely apart, stripped it to the bear metal. 

 
 
Here is the apron.  several coats of flaked paint.  Levers and gears aren't smooth and hard to use.

The  back of the apron.  surface rust, caked oil and dirt filling the gear teeth.  blocked oil paths. 

 
Apron disassembled and taken to the bare metal


  I was hoping that it all went back.  Notice the collection of labeled zip lock bags.  I photographed each component in-place before removing it, then removed the component and placed it into its own labeled bag. 
After complete cleaning, painting, new felts, new oilers, and reassembly.  the wheel and all of the levers and gears operate very smoothly

Here the lathe is on the table that I built for it.  I wanted to have the table on castors so that I could move it around, but I wanted the stability of it resting on legs. I couldn't find a solution online that didn't have complaints.  I actually built the table so that it could rest on cribbing (boards) that lift the table off of its castors. I use a hydraulic car jack that lifts one side of the table high enough for me to slide cribbing consisting of 2"X 8" boards formed like a "U" that supports the table.  It only take about 4 pumps on the jack to lift it to the correct height.  It takes less than a minute to do both sides.  In this photo the table is actually siting on this cribbing, not the castors.

I made two carts that slide under the table.  I'm able to store most of the tools and accessories in these carts. The slot at the top of the cart on the left holds four chucks and the collet draw bars.

On the back of the carts, I store all of the oils needed (5 different types) and various tools that don't fit well in the drawers.

I'm very happy with the results!   One change with the tops of the carts - i placed a soft oil resistant mat on the tops.
Now I need to learn how to use the lathe!!!😲

Ou, yeah! With all sails and with stunsails too !!!!
Ambitious madman

Hi Harry, Tim, and Grant!
 
thank you for your kind comments.
 
Grant, your comment hits close to home.  The first time that I oiled everything and fired up the lathe to make sure everything was working, I was dismayed to see the gleaming surfaces become covered with oil.😲
 
 
I finished the table in January.
 
So back to the ship!!!  I've been doing some rigging during this month. 
 
Thank you for your patience!
Marc

Great progress, Nenad!
 
she is looking wonderful!  So much to be proud of.
Take your time with the rigging.  Always check the placement of your hands and your lines.  No long sleeves.  You'll be fine!
 
Are you going to rig her with sails?
 
best
Marc

Looks right to me, Nenad.   Or at least close enough.  

Have just been catching up on your log Nenad  - beautiful work.
 
For most of us, the names of the various components of masts, yards and rigging is a new language, so I wouldn’t worry about there not being specific Serbian words for them. Just learn them as the rest of us do. Then you can add to your list of languages spoken - “nautical”. 😊

So, here we go ... some kind modelbuilding for dummies
I hope you will, and I kindly ask all of you, as much experienced modellers, to check attached photo, and to correct me with adequate names of masts and yards
Little explanation. My country is continental, and throught the history, sailing with clippers particulary was not possible, so, in Serbian language, there are not adequate terms for this
I made some kind of draft drawing, just as reminder of order for further research of any particulary part, as beggining and entrance to deep and dark forest named masting and rigging
 

And finaly, all decks are full, boats on their places with all spare yards all arround, also glued on their place
Only boat and anchor davits left to be mounted, but I am thinkin about solution to left them for later work, to avoid damage during rope work which is in front of me
 

 
And new "look and feel"