keelhauled

Hi everyone, 
 
I was asked about the details for rigging the main staysails on the Cutty.  I thought that others might have the same questions, I know that I did. So, I thought that I would share my reply here.
 
It isn't clear from many sources where lines are belayed or some of the details.   Here is my take on it. 
 
Based on my info here is what I believe this info to be correct.  For these references my primary source is Campbell’s plans.  It took a lot of research to find this info and some dry rigging runs to verify.  I messed up on my Cutty and forgot the staysail whips on my model until it was too late to correct the oversight. I was too focused on the halyards.  However, Campbell and others do not have whips for the staysails.   Who knows?!    I’m not saying that this is absolutely correct, but it makes sense and is based on Campbell as much as possible. The block sizes, line sizes, fairleads and whips are from Campbell. The actual pin locations and the aft foremast pin rail is based on other references. That fore aft pin rail is debated.
 
Main Topgallant (t’gallant) staysail.
The Topgallant staysail halyard is doubled.  The halyard is attached to the lower eye of a two-eye single 8” block Starts attached to the strop above the cringle for the lifts. In execution I moved up above the backstays so that the block cleared the stay.  I believe that it is a 2 1/4 inch hemp line.   The  halyard goes down to and through  another single block which is attached(shackled) to the main t’gallant staysail’s peak cringle and back up and through the 8” block where it started.   The line then goes down to the starboard topgallant fairlead then down to the pinrail below and forward.
 

 
The 2” downhaul is attached to the shackle at the peak cringle of the sail where the halyard is attached and runs through the hanks to the tack cringle of the sail and to an 8 inch single block then is which is attached to the topgallant stay below the roller.   If you do not have an aft pin rail the line goes down to the port side.  Here it terminates in a whip (If you decide to use one, otherwise belay directly to the sheeve or the pin), where the downhaul ends in an 8 inch single block.  the whip line is spliced to a hook fastened to the lower band – aft port side.  The whip runs up through the single block and back down to the spider band and is made fast to a belaying pin- aft port side. (there are three pins and eyes on the aft side).  If you have the aft pin rail which is the same as the fore pin rail, the line goes down to a whip and instead of belaying to the spider band, the line either goes directly to the port pin on the rail or goes through fore to aft the outer port sheave of the pin rail and up to the belaying pin. The topgallant staysail is a held to the foremast using a strop passed around the fore mast and shackled to the tack cringle.  The block is just below the strop
 

 
 
Royal staysail
The royal staysail is doubled and the same rig as the t’gallant. The differences are that the halyard is 2 ¼ inches with 6 inch block.  The downhaul is a 1 ¾ inch down haul. 
The halyard goes through the port royal backstay fairlead and to the pin rail to the pin just forward of the backstay.
The downhaul whip uses the center eye and belaying pin on the aft side of the foremast spider or the center pin in the pinrail if you have one.
 
Main staysail
The main staysail is doubled and same rig as the t-gallant.   The differences are as follows. The halyard and downhaul are both  2 ¼ lines. Campbell says that the downhaul block is 6”.  The down haul block is attached to the main stay just aft of the spider band on the starboard side (see photo). The mainstaysail is a held to the main topmast stay using a strop shackled to the tack cringle and the leg of the stay just before the seizing begins.  This stop needs to be long enough to allow the sail to clear the deck house.

The halyard block is attached to the port side 2nd most aft eye of the trestletree (fore aft) of the top mast crosstree. There are 5 eyes on the trestletree – going from forward aft this is the 4th eye, port side. The halyard goes to the port topmast backstay fairlead, forward hole (there are three holes) and to the pin rail to the pin just forward the stay.
 
The downhaul whip (if you use one, or directly to the belaying pin) uses the starboard eye and belaying pin or the starboard outer sheeve and pin if you have an aft pin rail.  I know the photo has the downhaul belaying directly to a pin (no whip) on the portside.  I have photos with it belayed on the starboard- I think that they moved the line so that it wasn't in the way of repairs (see the barrier next to the mast and the lines leading forward to block visitors from the port side of the deck).  What can you say? Also, I don't see how you would use a whip in this case with the block so close to the deck. 
 
Hope this helps, it’s taken me a few hours to put together, but a pleasure if it helps you.
Marc
 
 

Hi everyone, 
 
I was asked about the details for rigging the main staysails on the Cutty.  I thought that others might have the same questions, I know that I did. So, I thought that I would share my reply here.
 
It isn't clear from many sources where lines are belayed or some of the details.   Here is my take on it. 
 
Based on my info here is what I believe this info to be correct.  For these references my primary source is Campbell’s plans.  It took a lot of research to find this info and some dry rigging runs to verify.  I messed up on my Cutty and forgot the staysail whips on my model until it was too late to correct the oversight. I was too focused on the halyards.  However, Campbell and others do not have whips for the staysails.   Who knows?!    I’m not saying that this is absolutely correct, but it makes sense and is based on Campbell as much as possible. The block sizes, line sizes, fairleads and whips are from Campbell. The actual pin locations and the aft foremast pin rail is based on other references. That fore aft pin rail is debated.
 
Main Topgallant (t’gallant) staysail.
The Topgallant staysail halyard is doubled.  The halyard is attached to the lower eye of a two-eye single 8” block Starts attached to the strop above the cringle for the lifts. In execution I moved up above the backstays so that the block cleared the stay.  I believe that it is a 2 1/4 inch hemp line.   The  halyard goes down to and through  another single block which is attached(shackled) to the main t’gallant staysail’s peak cringle and back up and through the 8” block where it started.   The line then goes down to the starboard topgallant fairlead then down to the pinrail below and forward.
 

 
The 2” downhaul is attached to the shackle at the peak cringle of the sail where the halyard is attached and runs through the hanks to the tack cringle of the sail and to an 8 inch single block then is which is attached to the topgallant stay below the roller.   If you do not have an aft pin rail the line goes down to the port side.  Here it terminates in a whip (If you decide to use one, otherwise belay directly to the sheeve or the pin), where the downhaul ends in an 8 inch single block.  the whip line is spliced to a hook fastened to the lower band – aft port side.  The whip runs up through the single block and back down to the spider band and is made fast to a belaying pin- aft port side. (there are three pins and eyes on the aft side).  If you have the aft pin rail which is the same as the fore pin rail, the line goes down to a whip and instead of belaying to the spider band, the line either goes directly to the port pin on the rail or goes through fore to aft the outer port sheave of the pin rail and up to the belaying pin. The topgallant staysail is a held to the foremast using a strop passed around the fore mast and shackled to the tack cringle.  The block is just below the strop
 

 
 
Royal staysail
The royal staysail is doubled and the same rig as the t’gallant. The differences are that the halyard is 2 ¼ inches with 6 inch block.  The downhaul is a 1 ¾ inch down haul. 
The halyard goes through the port royal backstay fairlead and to the pin rail to the pin just forward of the backstay.
The downhaul whip uses the center eye and belaying pin on the aft side of the foremast spider or the center pin in the pinrail if you have one.
 
Main staysail
The main staysail is doubled and same rig as the t-gallant.   The differences are as follows. The halyard and downhaul are both  2 ¼ lines. Campbell says that the downhaul block is 6”.  The down haul block is attached to the main stay just aft of the spider band on the starboard side (see photo). The mainstaysail is a held to the main topmast stay using a strop shackled to the tack cringle and the leg of the stay just before the seizing begins.  This stop needs to be long enough to allow the sail to clear the deck house.

The halyard block is attached to the port side 2nd most aft eye of the trestletree (fore aft) of the top mast crosstree. There are 5 eyes on the trestletree – going from forward aft this is the 4th eye, port side. The halyard goes to the port topmast backstay fairlead, forward hole (there are three holes) and to the pin rail to the pin just forward the stay.
 
The downhaul whip (if you use one, or directly to the belaying pin) uses the starboard eye and belaying pin or the starboard outer sheeve and pin if you have an aft pin rail.  I know the photo has the downhaul belaying directly to a pin (no whip) on the portside.  I have photos with it belayed on the starboard- I think that they moved the line so that it wasn't in the way of repairs (see the barrier next to the mast and the lines leading forward to block visitors from the port side of the deck).  What can you say? Also, I don't see how you would use a whip in this case with the block so close to the deck. 
 
Hope this helps, it’s taken me a few hours to put together, but a pleasure if it helps you.
Marc
 
 

Looking good!  Keep up the great work!

Some years ago, I built myself a ring-light for my mill using what is called an 'angel's eye' from automotive supply (through ebay):

A detailed description can be found here: https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/tools/attachments/attachments.html#Ring-light
It attaches via a Nd-magnet, but I am not sure this would work with the Sherline mill, as its body is made from aluminium.
 

I have two of these small LED lights in my shop.  One over my lathe/ mill combination and one over my drill press.  They are great.  I found them on Amazon. Like everything else, they are Asian made.  Quality seems good.
 

Here's the type I"m using with the unseen mill to the left and hobby saw to the right.  It has a bolt down (screws actually) mount and slips in and out of the mount.   I did see somewhere that there are mounts for sale by themselves so they could be moved from bench to bench. 

Hi All,
Small update:
 
Fwd Superstructure tidy up/finishing, (Perhaps), day today....
Installed Ammunition Hoist forward most part of Tier 4. I decided against using the "Whisker thin PE bits and substituted 0.25mm Brass wire, much easier. 🙂
 
Tier 1 and 2 got the last bits installed on the very front of the Superstructure. (I lost the folded Brass box, Rod, (rvchima), provided the dimensions, (Thanks heaps Rod!!!), and made a replacement from Styrene.
(The superstructure look a little "Scrappy" but I am confident once primed/painted, it'll look much better.)
 
I think tomorrow I'll spray completed sub-assemblies with Acrylic Satin Polyurethane, something that needs to be done and it'll give my eyes a much needed rest.... 🙂
 
I have pretty much caught up with the "Issue" sequence. 
(Now up to "Issue" 121 out of 140, this really doesn't mean that I am close to completion.... I have had a look at the remaining "Issues" and there are many rather detailed and complex bits to install, inc. Decks, Painting, Etc, Etc.
 
Included with the photos, I have included photos of my sub-assemblies, just in case anyone was wondering, "Where's the rest of it?"
 
Cheers....HOF
 
Photos:
 
 

Looking  really nice  -  love the way the PE sheets  have the railings  as part of the  parts  and not seperate.
 
OC.

Thanks Marc,
Agreed, it is definitely a "Process" and I think that I'm getting a little better at working with PE.
Like anything, when it's going together well, it's more enjoyable.
 
I had a quick count of the "Part-work" issues left to go, around twenty or so out of 140.
Am I close to completion? Too early to say.... 🙂
 
Cheers and Regards,
 
Harry.
 

Hi Harry
She's taking shape. It's a very cool process. I like the lookof th cladding 
Best
Marc

Not to speak for Vlad, but his large scale CS is sold and it was a waterline half hull model…..with simple stub masts. 
 
Rob(mouth of one…voice of many)

MBS
 
Sometimes the website doesn't email the emails.  Use mmllc@cfl.rr.com and Donna will send you the manual
 
Jim
model Machines

Hello All,
 
I am adding here a plastic revel kit as I promised Bruma to post it here. This was just 2 weekends work as I used wooden leftovers from another build. I had kit left in cellar somewhere and motivated by Bruma teasing that rigging 1:96 its fun.  and his  fantastic sails but also very beautiful Robs Wiederrich paper sails I thought I could rig here sometime in the distant future.
I basically scraped some plastic rails... as  looked toyish to me, and substituted by boxwood and alaskan cedar. Hatched covers etc...I improved inner rail with original pattern by inserting paper strips... I am terrible in painting so I left cabins original and installed fantastic wooden deck from his model company. I dont intent to continue in some time now, as I have hands full...i exhanged decoration with etched one, and reinforced lower masts properly and thats it. I hope to continue but in distant future for sure....
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Harry
She's taking shape. It's a very cool process. I like the lookof th cladding 
Best
Marc

Thanks Rob
Campbell has them labeled bollards on the general arrangement plans for the Cutty and Underhill uses bollards in his Cutty Sark book and got used to thinking of them labeled that way. However, I am used to the term bollards being used for these  items ( both single and double  cylinders) on the docks and piers and bitts on the boats in the US and Carribean.  Maybe  it's an example of differences in the terms used in different regions to refer to the same item.  
Thanks
Marc

Hi All,
Second update for today:
 
I have begun working on the FWD Superstructure, Tier 3 and 4 and I decided to post photos of cladding in progress....
(Just ignore if they seem a little repetitive.... 🙂)
 
It starts with Tier 4, I'm happy about this as it means that I won't inadvertently damage Tier 3.
(Anyway, enough for today, Tomorrow, Tier 3.)
 
Cheers....HOF.
 
Photos:
 
 
 
 

Marc...I don't mean to be petty...but those are NOT bollards.  Bollards are found on pier side and are a single large drum like belaying structure....these are *BITTS*.
 
Rob

Thank you Marc, I like to help where I can.
 
B.E.

B.E. I wanted to express again my gratitude for your help. It really means a lot to me that you took the time to look through references to answer my questions.  
My sincerest appreciation 
Best
Marc

Crojack sheet mystery solved.
 
This is one of those cases where you've searched over the plans numerous times and missed the information in front of your face. Maybe this doesn't happen to you, it's only me. 
 
I posted the question under rigging on this site.  B.E answered with directing me to Longride's Cutty Sark book.  I had seen the information he referred me to which addressed the standing location of the sheet, but not the working portion of the sheet's belayed position.,
 
However, thanks to B.E., I went back through all of Campbell's pans again. comparing the Longridge info against Cambell's plans.  I found that the info I was seeking regarding the belaying point is in the Rigging Plan.  I guess that I spent too much time looking at the sail plan.  However, I did look at the rigging plan several times and missed the comment pointing to the sheet:  "4 inch hemp rope through sheave in bulwark and belayed on pinrail."    You were right Harry!
 
I had actually, given up searching and  had decided to add another set of bollards to mount aft of the pinrail for the crojack sheets.  I made two sets of the bollards from steel on my lathe and soldered them in place on a brass channel.  I made pins in the bollards to provide unnecessary support and alignment .   I also launched a single bollard into outerspace (or at least my ceiling) when I was parting it.   No use looking for that tiny part in my cluttered garage. 
 
Here's my handiwork. 
 

My first attempt at making bollards.  Not great, but better than the castings.  Now they aren't needed.  Oh well. 
 
 
 

I see you have The Cutty Sark book by Longridge in which he notes.
The Cro’jack sheets were made fast to the Qtr Bumpkin, and the Tack to an eyebolt on the rail.
 
Does this not  resolve the issue?
 
B.E.

Hi Marc,
I'm pleased you have sorted your rigging issue. (You are not the only one to "Not be able to see the wood for the trees!!" 🙂
 
Your Bollards look great and much improved over the kit castings.
 
Good to see your Lathe is getting some exercise.
 
Cheers and Regards,
 
Harry.

Crojack sheet mystery solved.
 
This is one of those cases where you've searched over the plans numerous times and missed the information in front of your face. Maybe this doesn't happen to you, it's only me. 
 
I posted the question under rigging on this site.  B.E answered with directing me to Longride's Cutty Sark book.  I had seen the information he referred me to which addressed the standing location of the sheet, but not the working portion of the sheet's belayed position.,
 
However, thanks to B.E., I went back through all of Campbell's pans again. comparing the Longridge info against Cambell's plans.  I found that the info I was seeking regarding the belaying point is in the Rigging Plan.  I guess that I spent too much time looking at the sail plan.  However, I did look at the rigging plan several times and missed the comment pointing to the sheet:  "4 inch hemp rope through sheave in bulwark and belayed on pinrail."    You were right Harry!
 
I had actually, given up searching and  had decided to add another set of bollards to mount aft of the pinrail for the crojack sheets.  I made two sets of the bollards from steel on my lathe and soldered them in place on a brass channel.  I made pins in the bollards to provide unnecessary support and alignment .   I also launched a single bollard into outerspace (or at least my ceiling) when I was parting it.   No use looking for that tiny part in my cluttered garage. 
 
Here's my handiwork. 
 

My first attempt at making bollards.  Not great, but better than the castings.  Now they aren't needed.  Oh well. 
 
 
 

Hi all,
 
Thanks to B.E., I went back through all of Campbell's pans again. The belaying point is in the Rigging Plan.  I guess that I spent too much time looking at the sail plan.  However, I did look at the rigging plan several times and missed the comment pointing to the sheet:  "4 inch hemp rope through sheave in bulwark and belayed on pinrail."    In Campbell's plan the sheet is belayed to the pinrail not the bollards like the other sheets and as she is now. 
 
Mystery solved. 
 
Thanks
Marc

Hi B.E.
thank you for researching this issue! 
 
I can see the standing portion of  sheet  being made fast to the quarter bumkin.  However, the working end continues up through an 11" block attached to the sail and then it has to go back back to ship.  Where is the mystery.  Campbell's plan shows and the actual ship has the working end continuing through a fairlead.   
 
I really appreciate the help. 
 
best,
Marc