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glbarlow
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Byrnes Sliding Table -Input Requested
glbarlow replied to glbarlow's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thank you for your reply. I understand the repeatable and safety aspect, How does it make cuts the same length? My example is cutting the very short “borders” of a square hatch, say each just 25mm in length and a 45 mitre didn’t cut, hard to do without losing a finger. Does the sliding table help with month the accurate cut and getting 4 perfect 25 mm lengths? I should just buy it, but not sure I’d know how to use it. Great video, very helpful. -
I’m sure having the slots at the bow and a stockier frame with additional bulkheads make my process unnecessary on the Speedy. Chris designed a great model. Sorry I brought it up.
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Post #19 in my Vanguard log is where I described fitting the patterns, it was a far bigger deal than the Speedy. I was more clever back then. Sorry Vane, no more hijacking your log.
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It is good practice and one I follow. Pre-forming on a firm board, rather than the somewhat fragile frame prevents breakage and is far less a struggle. The board, properly prepared provides firm and easy to access clamping points that also allow me to ease the pattern into the right shape. The ply on a gun port pattern is very stiff, and it is ply, too much soaking it will warp as it dries and possibly even delaminate. Scoring is not something I’d do. Using this process actually saves me time, saves me from the struggle of fighting alignment on the boat frame, and provides a smooth unwavering pattern. You can put the patterns on it lots of ways, but this method works and works well. While the Speedy may be easier given it’s shape, I’d not managed to get the patterns on either Pegasus or Vanguard without it. While I’m sure there are many methods, this one has made my building easier. I was just sharing what I do.
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Seems less than that to me since I was "gone" for the past three years. I did note I was mostly unhappy with myself for not keeping an offline copy, a mistake I won't make again.
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Actually after the Vanguard I'm never coppering another ship, with all due respect to historical accuracy 😄
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I used to have a lot more - I did a very long and detailed logs of my Pegasus and Fair American builds that were lost in the big systems crash a few years ago. I was not happy, mostly at myself for not keeping an offline copies. I quit building after the Vanguard and disappeared from the forums for a long while, just starting back up again.
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Not at all, I just posted in the Admin section asking how to do this - it was annoying me and I'm the one doing it. So thanks.
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Sorry, I've got to stop quoting - I'm posting replies several days after the original and MSW puts replies at the end but my adding the quotes is just making your log double long with the repeated photos - my bad.
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My first model is 15 years old now, doesn't show any aging problems with CA, guess I'll check in another 15 to se how its doing. I'm able to wipe off and if not then sand any spillage (as long as its minor) without problem.
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I'm in the CA group for 2nd planking, I just don't have the patience for PVA glue at this stage and don't want pin holes and I can do it fairly neatly. Using Chuck's plank bending with my travel iron gets the right shape without soaking and keeps the planks from warping and thus easy to glue on using CA. But there are as many techniques and choices as there are modelers so... My kit is pear wood (which is a HUGE improvement over walnut), but wishing I had the boxwood option. It will be a shame to copper over that beautiful wood.
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How did you determine the taper width on the stern? Until I saw your complete sequence of planking, from the first one I would have guessed the stern didn't need that much taper, but clearly it did. I'm starting my Speedy soon so enjoying the learning from your build.
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How do we maintain the preformed rabbet slot for the second planking?
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I’ve become a big fan of plank bending. I’m using a travel iron as my heat source, quieter and I think quicker. I even bent planks one way and then reversed it the opposite direction just to see if I could. It worked.
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I’ve had my Byrnes saw a long time, it just makes stuff easier. With that in mind I’m interested in comments regarding the new sliding table. Not being a woodworker beyond my modeling I’m not sure of its purpose. What does it do I can’t already do with the sliding gauge and slide bar? Everything about his saw (and Sander which I also have) is great, how would the addition of the sliding table make stuff more easy?
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You’ll find all across this forum people rave about the Byrnes saw, I like everyone else love mine. I use it all the time along with my Byrnes Sander. I haven’t sprung for the thickness sander yet, but based on the seemingly shortage of quality strip wood it may be next.
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It doesn't really count unless while dropping it you sliced at least one finger with an #11 exacto blade. I have band aides as an essential tool near my work bench.
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Agree with everyone, start over, filler can't get you there from here. You can find lime wood for the first planking cheap enough. No offense but not sure you read Chucks Planking process correctly. I just followed it for my current build and had great results. I don't agree that soaking is the way to go, that can lead to warping and swelling. I think your issue is more one of not tapering enough (or at all) at the bow (and too much at the stern) and not using Chuck's sideways bending technique. Get Chuck's hull outlining .pdf to see how to measure and mark the hull. I've always managed by guesstimates on prior models but learned a lot by doing it in detail and with more precision with this latest hull. Have heart, we've all been there and we've all gotten past it. Hang in there!
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I have a Byrnes saw and can do a reasonable job of ripping my own, in fact I did for my current model since I couldn’t find anything and still had a few billets from Jeff. It’s just that I prefer not to, I don’t do it enough to be good at it and I don’t have the proper ventilation to rip something like ebony. Even with that, I’m still looking for a source for quality woods in sheets in 3-5mm thicknesses. I’ll try some of the sites listed. I do miss Hobby Mill, didn’t realize how good I had it with Jeff.
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I know how to do tree-nailing the hard way. Any suggestions on simple, perhaps historically inaccurate, but nice looking, and quick and easy way to tree-nail a deck. Pardon the blasphemy of looking for a shortcut. 😄
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Paint for Models
glbarlow replied to silbchris's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The easiest thing to do is use water based acrylic - I use Admiralty paints but there are any number of options. No headaches with water-based. -
I trace the outline of half the ship (from above view) from the plans, transfer that to a piece of 1x4 inch lumber, cut out the half hull profile with a scroll saw, cut a few notches into opposite side, soak the gunport patterns a few hours then clamp and rubber band it to dry on my board. The pattern then fits the ship perfectly and easily with no risk to the hull. I devised this when building my Pegasus, it also worked great on the bows of my Vanguard.
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I’ve adopted the Chuck method too. It’s great. I’m m using a stream travel iron though as the heat source, much quieter:-)
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I checked several of the sites listed but didn’t have much luck finding milled strips for ship building, specialty in millimeter sizes. This three is from 2013, anyone have more current suppliers for model grade exotic strip wood?
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I see Crown Timberyard is also now out of business. Anyone have a good source still in business as of February 2020?
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