glbarlow
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I know how to do tree-nailing the hard way. Any suggestions on simple, perhaps historically inaccurate, but nice looking, and quick and easy way to tree-nail a deck. Pardon the blasphemy of looking for a shortcut. 😄 -
Paint for Models
glbarlow replied to silbchris's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The easiest thing to do is use water based acrylic - I use Admiralty paints but there are any number of options. No headaches with water-based. -
I trace the outline of half the ship (from above view) from the plans, transfer that to a piece of 1x4 inch lumber, cut out the half hull profile with a scroll saw, cut a few notches into opposite side, soak the gunport patterns a few hours then clamp and rubber band it to dry on my board. The pattern then fits the ship perfectly and easily with no risk to the hull. I devised this when building my Pegasus, it also worked great on the bows of my Vanguard.
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I’ve adopted the Chuck method too. It’s great. I’m m using a stream travel iron though as the heat source, much quieter:-)
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I checked several of the sites listed but didn’t have much luck finding milled strips for ship building, specialty in millimeter sizes. This three is from 2013, anyone have more current suppliers for model grade exotic strip wood?
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I see Crown Timberyard is also now out of business. Anyone have a good source still in business as of February 2020?
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I'll be interested to see how it comes out. My current plan is to use the engraved deck and see how that comes out. I've planked every ship with holly or ash, spent all the time doing it and then once the ship is built out and rigged its not all that noticeable. I get the master builder point and the nuance of all modelers - and the fact that before now we really didn't have a choice. But maybe on this one I'll just enjoy the engraved deck. The Speedy might be the first kit I don't bash. One thing that did jump out is how wide the planks on the engraved deck are, mine are normally 4-5mm. One point to check before you get to far is making sure the cannon still fit in the gun ports with the thicker planking..
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sorry, I was actually responding in terms of Chris' Instruction manual photos....
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I’ve not had any response to recent emails using their web system, but I have received a call back. I think as they’ve replied here there is a problem with that system. No offense, I love my Byrnes saw and sander, but their website appears to be of a very old design and could use a refresh.
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I'd had an interest or two in my Fair American model. The link I had in my signature line went to "another site" so thinking that might be bad form I created a gallery for the completed model here on MSW under of course, Galleries. I hope you enjoy. Sorry the HM Granado photos still go to that other site, I don't have the original photos on my computer any more so...
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I think this is a great idea, us average guys always have fun with rabbits and bearding lines...not me. I look forward to how this turns out applied to a larger model.
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As long as no copper is involved...🤣 I’ll look forward to seeing the different design and likely will be a customer despite my whining about big ships😏
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Sounds like a great plan. I’ll look forward to watching your development of the Bristol, I’ll probably buy it and wait for a frigate too. I think I’ll be set for the next couple of years:-)
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This is a small thing but great for modelers, I like to build but making round axels out of square ones many many times not so much fun. Thanks for this “innovation.”
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I’m sure the Bristol will be another great model, but after the Vanguard I’m not sure I’m ever going to be up for another big gun ship. Do you have any nice frigates on your radar, one of Cochrane’s perhaps? I’m reading the book you recommended, he was a fascinating guy. The Imperieuse would be a fun build...he said hopefully...:-)
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Did Chris’ instructions call for fitting the sternpost at this stage? I would leave that off untIl after the planking, it makes fitting planks flush at the stern so much easier. Or perhaps I misunderstood?
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A build log book, that’s thorough and a great idea.
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This is my next build for later this year. Good luck on your build and thanks for starting a log.
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50 hours is about how long it takes me to lay the first plank😂🤣
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I’m well acquainted with internet search engines, but thanks. Just like your link doesn’t produce any pear wood filler other than furniture scratch wax sticks, nor did mine.
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Hey, two Glenn's both spelled the right way:-) Congrats on Speedy, hope you're doing a build log. I won't be able to get to it for a while but looking forward to building mine too.
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Yes I know that trick, hard to do it in much volume and to keep it clean. That can be the fall back but still hoping to locate some pear wood filler. Its not a common wood in the US so not likely a Home Depot opportunity. Thanks though.
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I completed one side of my model (no drop plank, still not sure why or when I’d need one, historical points notwithstanding) I’m quite pleased with the results. I’ve become pretty good at plank bending with my travel iron. Amazing how much sideways twist I could get with this process. Measuring really helps understand how to fit and where to bend. Thanks Chuck!
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I have a question about building with Pearwood for those of us with less than perfect skills. Where can I find Pearwood wood filler? It has a distinctive color, natural or walnut filler would stand out. I realize if i make no mistakes I won’t need it, an admirable goal i will set for myself, but...
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I have my Speedy on hand and will be starting it soon, so watching your build.
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