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glbarlow

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Everything posted by glbarlow

  1. It’s always a good plan to rig out masts and spars as much as possible off the ship. It’s so much easier if all you.re doing at that point is connecting stuff.
  2. I have Cheerful, the masts and yards are square stock. I think I may be doing it next, not sure yet. Chris coming out in July with Flirt Master Shipwright version gives me pause starting Speedy. I saw the Ibex site - there were so many versions and blade size no idea where to start. https://www.metmusic.com/tools/ibex-planes/ I'll go for the one on your link - but what blade size. I'm really a novice planer, I may slice my thumb off.
  3. I own no planers, that in itself would be interesting. Thanks for the photos and explanation. I’ll try and sort out making the jig and look for a planer.
  4. I'm going to get some experience with square stock with Cheerful. So when you say planing jig...? I get the squaring off verses rounding off, but as I'm not interested in owning a lathe I'd be interested to hear more and maybe a photo of your jig. I can probably sort it out with my handy DeWalt battery powered drill, I'm all for seeing how the experts do it and any way that would make it more precise than turning my drill with sandpaper and files in hand. Your dioramas are amazing, I thought you were showing me a painting..l.
  5. It has, its intended to replace planking the deck, but nothing prevents you from planking over it - both have been done and shown in other build logs.
  6. I look forward to seeing how that goes. I’m going for the Master Shipwright version of Flirt. If it’s all boxwood I’d rather try almost anything other than walnut.
  7. Of course its up to you, I don't know how lime wood would hold up (as in I really don't know) and I understand boxwood and pear are out. It was just a thought....
  8. I guess we could do that if there was any boxwood of the right dimensions to be found in the world. Although I’m sure it be a bit pricey. Chris’ thought of lime is a good one.
  9. I’d like to hope for something that would compliment the boxwood design for Flirt. Walnut would be a bit of a downer, unless they were fully painted. In for a penny in for a pound I believe the expression goes.
  10. I’m going to remember this when I start painting Cheerful. I’ve always painted multiple coats, but like 3-4. I’d love to see your boat live. I bet you can feel the depth. Really nice job. I can paint a straight line...wait without tape...😱😳
  11. I wasn’t criticizing simply stating you don’t know that it isn’t accurate. It is, as you said, just your opinion. I have practical road going experience with cars, that doesn’t mean I can spot size differences of a particular model from a photo. Chris responded to you that he copied and followed actual plans and that it was accurate per those plans. That is answer enough. Since I doubt the model will be modified based on your opinion I suggest this is not a kit you want to buy.
  12. Is that really something to quibble about? I’m sure for a heavily used boat like this there were lots of variations. Let’s just enjoy looking at something different. My question though is where do the cannon go?🤣😂
  13. The best modelers are the ones that adapt to and correct their mistakes - I don't think there are many that do it right every time - I certainly don't. There isn't much you can't recover from with modeling - except not having a squared frame to build on, hence my earlier advice. The nice thing about a double planked ship is you can do almost anything to cover the frame with the first planking, sand, wood fill, do whatever to make that a smooth form and the second planking goes on fine - I think Hunt probably describes tapering and measuring so with that practicum you'll be fine. And if not, you can fix it. That's the fun of it all.
  14. I’ve used water based poly on most of my models and have never had a “milk” problem. I suppose it’s in the brand. I’d think using an oil based varnish would definitely need thinning to prevent it from gumming up.
  15. Your plan makes sense to me. I for one am looking for quality, both of material and design. It seems that’s your direction. While I respect ASAT’s views on Bristol I find myself more interested these days in smaller ships that don’t take me years to finish. Is that Flirt’s false or primary deck that appears to be in 4 pieces? Have you thought about another cutter, or a 1:48 kit? Ok, I’ve exceeded my allotment of questions. Thanks Chris for being available, sharing your plans, and answering questions.
  16. My First start was the AVS with a Hunt practicum. I hope it works as well for you as it did for me.
  17. I built the Pride of Baltimore as one of my first models. I recommend you start with it. It’s more basic and a better place to learn than Chuck’s a dvanced long boat. Chuck has a .pdf that describes how to line the hull but that’s among the easier, but essential, parts of the planking process. Here is your first lesson: There are about as many methods for planking as there are modelers. PVA or CA glue, nails, battens or neither. How to mark, taper, bend the plank. There are many variations and hard held methods and almost all work. So do your research here and decide on a method that suits you and stick with it. It’s not as scary as it sounds. We all planked our first ship. As Chuck says start a log and ask for help. Second lesson. Take your time, use PVA glue and get your frame square, fair, and true. It all starts there. I don’t know if it’s still available, Bob Hunt Lauck Shipyards I think, had a practicum on how to build the Pride of Baltimore. It will guide you step by step. Welcome to the club.
  18. Though it’s not in a glass case, I got the plans for Pegasus when I built her, they are now framed and hanging in my workshop. It’s. A nice idea and I can tell you first hand does provide inspiration, making a connection to the past and the real thing. I have my little painted Cochran’s watching over me on a shelf, and read the kindle version of the book on him Chris recommended. He was quite the guy.
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