glbarlow

Thanks, and nice photo.

Chapter 7 Complete! A long post as it’s a big moment for me, completing Chapter 7. And oh what a chapter it was. I started my Winchelsea build November 2021, two years to reach this point, three months of it on this chapter. Being retired I normally spent half a day most every day on the build in my never ending search, and failure to achieve, perfection. This summer though was a lot less build time, lots of travel including Kenya and our youngest son’s Colorado wedding plus every moment I could get spending time with my two grandchildren. Fortunately my older son and my grandkids live only 15 minutes away. There is a lot going on in chapter 7. Beginning with the quarterdeck beams (I built the foredeck beams while I was at it) along with the lodging and hanging knees. I really like the look, unfortunately as I’ve noted and Winnie builders know, they’ll eventually be covered with deck planking….maybe. There are also the cabin walls and doors. Each consists of three panels plus 4 doors, knobs, and hinges that are sanded to fit beneath beam and matched up to the bulwarks- fun stuff that was. The four pillars are nice, matching four of them with the laser cut head start was fun. Even more was the posts and rails for the companionway, can’t wait to do that again on the quarterdeck. The capstan went in (the lower half), it was made long ago. All this I addressed on earlier posts, so pardon my trip down memory lane. That brought me to the next steps, the jeer bitts, gallows and pumps. I am adding cannon row by row as I move forward. Before I got into the pumps I decided, at some peril, to add the port lids I’d stashed on my ‘built but waiting’ shelf a while back. My concern was well founded - it wasn’t long before I managed to knock one off reaching for a tool - I really need to stop doing that. Fortunately I got it back on ok. I’ve added “warning tape” to the sides to remind my hand not to hit anything. I elected to run a single strand of 25pd black monofilament fishing line through both hinges. I made a simple little jig to keep the openings consistent. With that inserted I touched a little CA on the line just to the left of both hinges, pulled that into the hinge and once the CA set clipped the line on both sides of each hinge. It worked well with no shiny cut wire to deal with. I’m a big fan of various sizes of black monofilament for this reason. There are so many signature looks with Chuck’s excellent design - this one with the quarter galley, hull decoration, cannon, and now lids brings one of these nearer to completion. After adding a single center post a few beams back the first step toward the pump configuration is two pillars set atop this coaming. Aside from being reduced in height, shaped, sanded, and painted they require the correct angles both top and bottom as well as being identical to its partner. I fitted these but didn’t glue them yet (as guided by Chuck’s instructions ) They will need to line up with the jeers, pumps and gallows and a hole drilled at the right spot through the near center. A piece of scrap was handy in getting the right length and angles. I use a lot of purpose cut scrap MDF for various, non-scratching, jigs to check levels and pre-fit things. The last two beams were fitted then set aside to allow working room. Next up was the gallows and jeer bitts. I love the laser cut components for Winchelsea, they are always so precise and interesting. In the case of the gallows I thought the top piece could use a little more interest. I used my mill to cut a single groove through both sides. It seemed to add a lot by adding a little in my view. Once again my compliments to Chuck for the detail and accuracy this model provides. The pumps require around 30 separate parts each to assemble - each panel of the wheel beveled and aligned to fit among other detail. One panel, bevel, fit, check, glue, and repeat, from one side to the other… The completed pumps (but not yet WOPed, which really defines the look) are temporarily set in place. Laser cut parts are a great starting point and assemble into nice completed components. Taken all together they make for a very realistic and fine looking model. This particular section from the forward posts through the back pillars involve a lot of those layered parts. However, though the end result is worth it - there is a lot, a lot, of char to remove. Red paint won’t cover it so it all has to come off. I use a single edge razor blade to scrape what I can and follow with very light touches using 320, 400, and 600 grit purpose made sanding sticks, I go very slowly, always in fear of removing too much, so it takes time. Wouldn’t it be nice to live in a char free world…I digress. Though small, it was no small feat to make the four rhodings. I chose to do these from brass, bent, shaped, blacked, and weathered to attach to the gallows and jeer bitts. Not only to make them but installed in line through all of the above back to those earlier made columns. I must have pushed in and pulled out those brass rods so many times in measuring, marking, adjusting, and confirming this very critical fit before gluing anything down. It’s a long straight, level path through five components, times two. The height is fixed by the pumps, everything else must follow. I wasn’t done though, the rods (and eventually crank handles) extend to the forward stanchions. I made these from wood and between my Ironwood Black paint and weathering powder did my best to make them appear to be metal (doesn't show well in these photos). Brass, blacked bent into a gentle curve and “bolted” (those ubiquitous little nails did the job) to the coaming completed the look. I mention weathering a lot. I did this, learning from others, the first time for Cheerful. It makes such a difference, one that probably doesn’t show in photos. I start with Admiralty Paints Ironwood Black, perhaps meant to paint metal I use it on wood all the time - it’s basically a matte black but has 'metalistic' character of its own. The Doc O’Brien weathering powder is great, for reasons beyond me Rusty Brown on the Ironwood black paint seems to make the best Iron Gray look. It’s the same combination I used on all the cannon barrels. While it may seem excessive, this brush set makes it all work for me - I use four for a single application - one for powdering, one for removing excess, one to lightly even it out, and finally the larger very soft brush to buff out and complete the look. Anyway…that’s just me. With posts, bitts, pumps, rhodings, gallows, and stanchions all lined up and glued in - after many many repeats of measure, mark, check, confirm with long rods - it was time to make and add the cranks. I used the mill to make these “iron plugs” and purpose made smooth pliers and flush cutters to shape and bend to rods into cranks. The challenge of making one isn’t hard, making an identical partner isn’t hard either…he said being the guy who frets over ½ mm differences. Once the rods blackened, the plugs painted and both weathered I glued them in (only at the end points) and flush cut the ends. And I’m done with another signature element - it all stands out so nicely. It takes a lot to get it this way. Every step is challenging, fun, and worth the end result. There is no reason or purpose to speed through this. It will remain one of the most visible elements of the completed model. The final step for chapter 7 is the elm tree pumps. I cut the groove for the handle and drill out the pump itself about half through on the mill, Measured then planed/sanded the octagonal shape following the 7-10-7 ratio. With that, some painting, a small dowel drilled out in the center as the spout (I used my .7mm pencil lead the cover the inside of the spout, just enough contrast), and some black masking tape for the band the two pumps were added to the model. I drilled a hole and added a pin to the bottom of the pumps. Now that they are done and located for mounting off they go to the shelf until later so I don’t snag the handles doing something else. I’m good at that. The final two beams and lodging knees are added and chapter 7 is complete. Chapter 7 Photos: To make a long post longer here are some photos of the stern quarter where I’ve spent the last three months (interrupted as it were with other things). Thanks for stopping by, your likes and especially your comments are always appreciated. Before I move to Chapter 8 I’ll take a pause and sort out my Africa photos for a book I’ll publish as Christmas gifts for the family. It gives me purpose to get through the 10,000 I and my wife took while there. It’s hard work having two hobbies, good thing I’m retired. Until next time.

Thank you, it’s really for elm tree pumps. The template will definitely work.

Anyone have a link to a calculator for marking the 710-7 ratio to turn square stock into an octagon? The one I used in the past is a dead link Thanks in advance.

The disc sander is great for managing small angles, I’d be lost without mine, as are the plan cutouts satisfying confirmation.

The Hawaiian shirt is just too cool.

Here’s my advice. Once you finish the roof with the small rail on top and know you have a good fit, set them aside and don’t glue them on for a while. I’ve knocked off that rail on both sides so many times I had to ask Chuck for replacement parts.

Well done, congratulations!

Nice job on the fairing, it was new to me at the time too, fun stuff.

Their placement and size comes into play when fitting the stern decorations, which are wonderful but a tight fit. If you don’t have them you may want to check against a cutout of the plans. A cutout of this framing of the quarter gallery also helps to confirm angles. A lot of what’s to come is made easier or harder based on the stern framing. Fun stuff.

That’s really well done!

The perfection shows in many ways. One is how perfectly those ‘tree nails’ are lined up so precisely, that alone is amazing.

It’s a good point about tension, all rigging needs no more than snug, if you can twang it like a guitar string it’s way to tight. The shrouds in particular need a little bit of give to them.

Welcome back. I started Vanguard, got fed up with copper plating after one side and didn’t start on the other for over three years (building nothing else in between), many of us know the feeling. Cheerful is such a nice model and your looks great, well worth finishing.

Though a different ship @DelF Speedy log was helpful for me at this point as I learned to do servings for my Cheerful where I also attempted to describe rigging the shrouds including serving the full length of the leading (bow most) shroudThe principal is the same. Your second attempt is much better than the first as you note.

The Ibex planers are great. I have one, didn’t know there were so many variations.

Thank you!

Thanks Rusty!

Thanks Chuck! Your design makes it all fun.

Thank you. The animals don’t consider safari vehicles a threat having grown up with them. I used a 100-400mm, many of the shots were closer to 100 than 400 in particular the elephants. I was sitting on the ground back to the vehicle for the elephant at about 100mm, the lion I was in the vehicle (no getting out around them) closer to 400mm. I never needed more than 400, some were with a 24-70mm. It was amazing how close we were.

Until the past few days it had been over a month since I last worked on my Winchelsea. My wife and I took a two week trip to Kenya on safari to the Amboseli and Masa Mare Reserves. It was an amazing trip. Photography is my other hobby, while there we took over 10,000 photos. If you’re interested I’ve published a small set on my web site GlennBarlow Photography Here’s a sample from each location (yes we got that close): That was followed by a fabulous weekend in Colorado for my youngest son’s outdoor wedding with perfect weather. Now I’m back home sorting through photos and getting back to ship building. So not much progress. I’ve been installing quarterdeck beams from stern forward and reached the point of installing the capstan I’d made a while before. The paws were a fun little, and I mean little, project. It doesn’t really show in the photo, they are thinned down on the back half. After painting with Ironwood Black and weathered I pinned them by drilling a hole using 25lb black monofilament as the pivot. The key with the capstan is for it to be centered front and back between beams and more importantly port to starboard. I guess it more challenging as my the dowel on the capstan bottom was smaller and shallower than the platform. I got there eventually, thankfully the PVA had enough drying time. I’m enjoying installing the lodging and hanging knees, though I’m already a bit disappointed knowing none of it will show after the q-deck is partially planked. ’m going to have to think about that some but will defer it until much later. Kind of a cool view down the deck, forgive the iPhone created distortion. I’m now at at the point for the pumps, main jeer, and gallows, So something new to do besides beams. I plan to first go back now and install the port lids - I decided I’d rather knock them loose than a cannon - and repair my quarterdeck roof…again. So it’s back to work on Chapter 7 while I also work on photos and a book I want to have ready before Christmas. Thanks for stopping by.

Making great progress. I like the modifications to show some of the ledges and knees. I just completed the quarter deck on mine, thinking all the while I’d be covering all of those up. Only I’d know they were there. I’ll have to give this solution some thought.

I’d love to build this but all the fairing and planking. Actually that I could do, finding a place to display it might require marriage counseling.

Fortunately there is no wind or weather for a model to endure both methods work to seize block and hooks to the line. Appreciate the history lesson, and here I thought the earliest modelers came up with it.

Lots of things with lots of names. Point is it works for seizing blocks and hooks.