glbarlow

Cheeks, Hair brackets, Bolsters, & Wash Can’t. We decided to sell our lake house. Between that decision, the work we did to prep it for sale, it being sold and then the work to clear it for the buyers plus completely re-organizing our garage while we were at it, six weeks disappeared. Very little build time during all that, this section of Chapter 5 seem to take forever as a result. There are a few very appropriate appropriate quotes from Chuck’s monograph in this section, here is the first: “this is tricky work so take your time and try not to get frustrated.” Of course I counted. 46 distinct parts including the printed friezes make up this section all confined to the bow and stem. These are about 3-6 parts in an average kit, even if the kit includes them at all. A good time was had by all. It is worth it for the detailed realism of the result. I also admit to starting over more than once and taking advantage of Chuck’s generous offer for replacement parts. In some instance because I broke it, in others I just didn’t like what I had. I discovered, eventually, this is a section I could over-optimize time and again. At some point I needed to declare victory and move on. It started with the paper template. The first challenge is making sure the spacing between the cheeks is correct for the bolsters, the lower hair brackets align with the feet of the figure head, the upper hair bracket aligns with the top of the stem, in short a lot of planning before anything goes on the ship. My little spacers helped a little to make sure I was off to a good start. As I build I scratch into both the back of the thing to be added and the place where it goes to ensure good glue adhesion through the coats of WOP. Also testing the bolster layer to fit between helps (it needed sanding later), as does knowing the fit for the upper cheek is along the top of the black strake, this also defines the location of the bottom strake. Piece of cake so far right. That and double sided tape to check and recheck. Then a glue stick, a sharp knife, and a very thin putty blade to add the printed frieze after they were cut and sprayed with fixative. I owe this cutting to my wife. Multiple times she pulled out her scissors to do what I couldn’t, cut them with no white showing to then be glued to the cheeks and hair brackets. Some do this after the work is glued on, my choice was to apply the frieze before gluing the work to the ship. I can’t say it any better than the instructions in the monograph: “Now all of this always looks easier than it actually is. You will need to get in touch with our creative side here a bit. Each of these pieces will need some shaping and testing.....and repeat many many times the shaping and testing.” In case it’s that wasn’t clear…many, many times. My photos are a bit out of sync based on my applying, then removing a couple of the cheeks. Yes this can be done with a very deep breath and the managed application of acetone with everything surrounding taped off, and even the tape folded to funnel the excess Acetone away. Did I mention the deep breath part. I did this twice, the patient lived. Eventually though I had the three layers of the beneath the bolsters added and proceeded to drill in the hawse holes at the very upper angle required. first with a pilot hole with a small bit, then a larger bit, one more still larger bit, finished off with a soft edged round file. My choice for finishing the hawse holes, with the several layers of wood involved to the deck wound up pretty deep, was to use Admiralty Paints Ironwood Black - followed by O’Brien’s Grungy Gray weathering powder - carefully applied. The bolster started as a straight piece of 1/8th wood. It’s a process. First I filed, sanded, scraped the inside curve to fit the curve of the layered wood it sits on above the lower cheek, including the bottom for the angle of the cheek it sits on - no small task done very slowly. Shape and test…then do that again many many times, then match the outer side to that inner curve, more sanding and scraping, and finally fully rounding the top edges. Before gluing it in place I added the scroll work. Another bit of finesse filling and sanding. I had to sand micro-millimeters to get a fit between the cheeks and and clear the figurehead’s foot. I was fortunate not to have to remove any portion of it - just make four sides a little thinner. I added these little stick-on small furniture pads to some clamps so to not mar the finish of the bolsters, they worked great. Finally the wash cants. A lot of work to file the back edges to fit the bow and stem, then the front edge to a knife point. After painting them black they are barely visible installed, but I know they are there, so yay. And with that a time consuming process of sand, test, fit, slowly do it all again is complete. Here are a few photos. I feel bad because I had to take a sizable chunk out of the figurehead’s shoulder and back for a reasonable fit. I doubt he’ll ever be able to play the mandolin again. As always, thank you for stopping by. And if you are this time thank you for remembering I’m here - it’s been a while. Your likes and especially your comments are always appreciated. A few last steps to complete Chapter 5, so here I go with that.

More than once I’ve ripped off lots of planks and started over, and sometimes started over again. Don’t give up on it.

Thanks Frank.

Welcome to the group!

I was thinking, unlike the big crash when my logs were lost forever, at least this time I have my logs backed up at home.

I was so sad. 😁

How’s it coming Jim?

Wow…just wow!

Wow Rusty, what a journey. Such an amazing result and a wonderful reference for me as I build mine. Congratulations and so well done!!

Wow, it looks so nice with the top jigs removed.

It really takes very little effort to add that taper to both the stem and rudder, as long as you don’t get carried away on models not necessarily designed for it. It does make a pleasing difference with only the slightly bit of sanding. An advanced modeler would know this, a beginner likely wouldn’t care.

Maybe just Google…

Don’t do that ! Use a smaller dowel with 220 then 320 sandpaper wrapped around it and/or a fine tooth round hand file. Go slow, check often and it will be fine. I never use anything but hand tools, a Dremel risk isn’t worth the speed. it was a long time ago but the above I’m sure is what I did on mine since I’ve done it on all my models. If you have to reduce it for the seat then only ways not seen below the deck. And yes it will have some rake to it so account for that in rounding the hole at an equal slant. Hope that helps

The mast would never be a smaller diameter where visible above the deck. But at this point it would depend on the seat you built for it below the deck. It needs to fit tight and snug. I don’t see any advantage to decreasing it in size.

Any of the beginner level kits from Vanguard Models keeping in mind Chris’ comment above.

This is the purpose of the 7-10-7 marking process. Marking the square stock with this ratio of lines simply makes sure you plane equal amounts of each corner and not misshape the wood while rounding it.

It would be easy to remove the mast cap and slide it over the top of the mast. If CA use acetone, if PVA use denatured alcohol to remove. Done carefully and slowly you’d never know later.

I have the hardest time understanding how any could sit on those seats on the pitching ocean. How many went overboard I wonder. Really fun to see all this great work, and a bit sad knowing it’s coming to an end for you. Whatever adjustment you made certainly isn’t noticeable, it’s all so very crisp and detailed.

Yes…yes I did 😊😁😂

Nicely done.

Nice work. Your skill with the air brush is outstanding. I always appreciate a builder willing to go backwards to rebuild or replace something to improve the model. It’s a bold, but seldom regretted decision.

Yes it was, or at least I made it so. Thank you! Thank you, and thanks again for the 1/16th brass strips. I will still find a good use for them. Or OCD. Thanks Derek!

Very precise, well planned and thought out, very well done Glenn! Proof positive that a good planking job doesn’t require stealers and how pre-bending and good planning pay off. As far as the troublesome plank, sometimes a shim behind the plank can help correct a low spot. Or if you have the wood cut a thicker plank. At any rate, you should be justly proud of taking on the challenge of a butt shift pattern and making it work this well!

There are bow fillers you may want to add, and stern ones as well if you don't have them. the transition from W - U and the third bulkhead need lots of pre-attention in fairing for the planking to lay fair. Nice that you got some of the internal fairing done now, it's all looking very crisp. Well done.

Can you remove and replace the offending planks and lightly sand the new planks to be a paintable and/or coppered area as BE and Chris have suggested. It’s wood, there is always some answer.