glbarlow

Excellent point of view. Maybe I’ll portray mine as after a very light battle to account for any faults in my build. That small dent in the AYC, glancing blow from a small swivel gun 🤣

There is no way those aren’t actually tiny real bricks cemented together 😳

Very crisp and neat work, fine joinery! Not sure it’s what you’re looking for, take a look at the port lid hinges Chuck offers for Winchelsea. Perhaps they can be modified to work.

That paintwork is amazing!

Not sure about that, but thank you both for saying so.

The key is to use bright lights to hide stuff🤣🤣. Thank you BE, much appreciated.

Where’s the fun if we can’t add new stuff to the workbench. Amazon thanks us.

Thank you, it was a trip, every centerline and port side plank is unique, as you know, only to have to be mirrored on the starboard side. Fun stuff.

Not at all, that makes it all the more impressive.

Making some progress these past few days. More detailed post later but just one photo for a quick update on forecastle work.

What a process doing this all from scratch. Amazing work.

Looking great Fred!

Very interesting background and project beginning.

The overlap of the second planking should cover that. The counter is planked first then trim the hull side planking flush with the planked counter. The gaps should easily be covered, the first planking is a foundation, doesn’t always need to be a perfect match to the final look generated by. 2nd planking. The parts are generally oversized on purpose as every hull is different. You can also sand the counter piece to fit a little better. Do make sure the second planking is equal, by trial fitting, to the rudder at the stern post, generally this is more problematic than the counter. I wish my Pegasus log wasn’t lost in the great 2013 crash.

And you I’m glad you did and hope it’s helpful. Studying other logs is something I sure do too.

Thanks for explaining. I had no idea, I just glue stuff on😁

I use the medium (purple) Insta-cure+ for planking. For some things, like cannon carriage to the deck, I use the red Maxi-cure - I never use the blue Thin version. It's good stuff.

Margin and outboard Planking Time for the margin planks, waterway, and outboard planking. I started with the quarter deck. The margin planks are heat bent with my trusty travel iron (I had a brief flash back to those long months planking the hull). I elected to use one long strip and then once shaped I use the template as a pattern to cut a scarf joint midway. I did the same with the four planks, all ¼ widths I’d ripped and run through the thickness planer, tapering the planks towards the stern per the template and using a razor saw to simulate the planking end cuts and then adding #2 pencil along the long edge for caulking. Running a single long plank with the simulated break made for a cleaner run and easier fit. (the angle of the iPhone photo makes it seam the port side planning seem wider than starboard, it isn’t). I half-rounded a strip for the waterways to finish up the outboard work. This small strip adds a lot, it won’t wash away any water but it does a nice job of bridging the deck and bulwarks. After sanding and 4 coats of WOP it’s done. I may WOP the beam tops late,r for now I haven’t. The q-deck was easy enough and done fairly quickly, the forecastle not so much. The forecastle margin planks are too curved to bend a plank so they are cut from 3/64 sheet. I started with the template (template beams and actual beams were lined up for measuring, just not for this photo) then added Tamiya tape to make up any differences (really not much, but some) with my hull and transferred the outer edge to the sheet. The outer edges were then cut roughly with a #11 blade. Using dividers, and a technique learned from Rusty, I drew the proper width for the inboard side. This step is done after the cut and completing sanding of the outer edge. Once again I again did the full length and cut the scarf joint after the fitting, amazing how nice they match up that way. My Byrnes sander does a nice job of rough sanding the outer curve smooth. The new version with the reversible direction makes it even easier. I converted my mill into a sanding table for rough sanding of the margin and forecastle planks inner curves. The same process of starting with template, modified by tape, transferred to sheet with double sided tape, rough sanded and finally the time consuming part, final sanding by hand with sanding sticks to a tight fit. While there are only 6 planks plus the margin plank they are all cut from sheet and sanded to custom fit, a slow process but a rewarding one with the final result. Once again the waterway and 4 coats of WOP are added (four because that’s how many I used on the main deck so the finish and tone match up). The WOP is wiped on and off and lightly sanded between the second and third coat. A lot of cut up templates and Tamiya tape were used to make it all work. My blue canary tape is also shown - it serves as an early warning before an elbow snags a cannon barrel. Kinda dumb, but it works. There is a pronounced curve to these planks, while they were cut with that curve, clamping while gluing keep them that way. The completed quarterdeck. The completed forecastle. On to the center planking and deck furniture. As always thank you for your comments and the likes and for stopping by.

I wonder how many threads there are on this topic, it always serves to bring out the the same comments and commenters. I use the best glue for the job, for framers and bulkheads it’s Titebond wood glue, for planking it’s Smith Industries CA(not all CA glue is the same), because I heat bend and fit each plank first. For other work it’s White PVA. For those sensitive to CA, Smith Industries makes an odorless version. Use what works for you, for more opinions (and entertainment) do a search on this site on this topic.

These are beautiful, so well crafted. I bet a bunch of Winnie builders would happily buy a set. I have no clue how I’ll mount mine and certainly don’t have the skill to make anything like this. Well done!

Not sure from the photos. The planking for Cheerful’s deck is unique in that there is a very visible curve, especially at the bow forward of midship the finished deck is a signature point of the model. If your pencil lines capture that then great. Keep in mind a pencil line is thinner that the meeting point of cut wood. A marked line doesn’t completely reflect planking.

Let’s end this thread with; ZHL are Chinese pirates. Nothing said on SOS is true when it comes to ZHL. Let’s move on.

These require a lot of fairing once installed plus the reference marks are very handy lining up the wales and gun ports. I hope your wood choice works out for you

I’d like to leave mine bright but char removal is a limited skill for me. Still looking great and glad to see you back at it.

Seems ready for second planking to me, well done!