glbarlow

The first can be a rough go, stick with it, learn, follow other logs. It’ll be fun.

Thanks for your comment. I exclusively use Tamiya tape, available on Amazon. Really excellent for the tight masking for our models. Multiple thin coats and smooth long brush strokes help prevent build up at the tape line. Hope that helps, main thing is to go slow, take your time, know the first model is about learning (as is my 12th for that matter) and have fun. Check Vanguard Models for your next build. @chris watton offers great, well made kits with quality materials. More importantly his plans and instructions are second to none.

The mitre bar, extended fence are essential, the cross cut table is of great benefit and a must. Zero clearance inserts are handy, but I seldom use it. The 3 inch, 90T, .03 slitting blade is all I ever use. I’d get a couple of those. I have the micro meter stop and never ever use it. I’ve had my saw since 2008 and never replaced the belt. The other might be useful, but not for me.

Great work as always BE. I believe the planking problem is as much corrected by adjusting the edge bending (bend up to curve down) as it is with the tapering. I’ve found the third and fourth bulkhead are is the most challenging to get a proper fit, good idea to sort it out early, it only compounds the further you go if not.

Amazingly well done. True craftsmanship!

Amazing work, well done!

You’re doing really excellent work with this model and with your log, I just stumbled on to it today. You’ve done a great job leaning into other logs for advice. @DelF is an outstanding builder and a great source. For a near first model your workmanship is excellent. Yes those holes are for rigging, easiest way to determine size is to look at the plans for what size rope goes through it and drill accordingly, it will be fairly small. Four anchors is fairly common, two rigged and two lashed on as spares.

Thanks, I’m glad it’s helpful.

Excellent paint work, very impressive.

Congratulations on reaching the finish line. A great sense of accomplishment no doubt. Well done!

We’ll done, the cherry looks great!

Thank you. Yes, absolutely, with my special invisible rope and transparent blocks🤣😂

Thanks Don, I tend to obsess over those details, I appreciate your comment.

Phase 2 - Cannon I’m still here, I haven’t a lot of ship time lately due tog lots of summer activities and travel. I have managed to complete another group of nine cannon bringing my total to 17 with eight more to go on the main deck. This is how I’m thinking of mounting them 😄 A coat of Admiralty Ironworks Black, followed by Doc O'Briens Rusty Red weathering powder. Completed carriages airbrushed red. I was surprised how much fine red dust ended up in my air filtration system - it even gave me a clean filters warning. I of course wore a mask and saw first hand the reason why. Adding WOP to wheels and hanging them out to dry. One thing I can’t seem to sort out is how to get completely clean wheels without removing too much wood, at this point thought it’s more important to me to be consist with my dirty wheels. I won’t bore you further with my process again, I covered it in detail back in post 361 if you’re interested. I just did it all again for nine more (one is for my 6 year old grandson, he asked me to make him one) and will again for the remaining eight, and once again later for the eight q-deck and forecastle guns. Perhaps of passing interest, each cannon consists of 28 separate parts. No shortcuts here, just gotta get in and do it. One thing I brushed over in the earlier post was the capsquares. Doing them with the hinge, latch, and pin is a bit of a fun getting the four pieces consisting of 30 pound black monofilament, 24 gauge wire, and black paper to come together to fit there properly on top of the carriage. I can’t say enough about the power of powder in the form of Doc O’Briens Weathering Powders. Somehow Rusty Red combines with the plastic cannon and Ironworks Black paint to create an nice gun metal finish. I took it one step further and also added it to the capsquares after first also painting them with the Ironworks Black. Once buffed up it brings all the plastic, wire, and paper into a uniform appearance creating a nice looking brushed metal appearance (at least mini-me thinks so). A lot of time spent making these in addition to assembling the cannon - well worth it. It’s starting to look like a warship (they’re just sitting there temporarily). I was going to take a break from them and build the capstan or the stove, but now I think I’ll go ahead and make the remaining main deck guns while the steps are fresh. Thanks for stopping by, hope you’re all enjoying the summer. I’m having eggs for breakfast these days since I can just cook them out on my Texas driveway.

Excellent work, very impressive belfry.

With Winchelsea underway I’d have to negotiate for space in the house for two such big hulls first 😁🤔

I’m a fan of Chris and fully support what works for his business. Hopefully all those that said they wanted Indy have their order in and if not in now order it soon. I’m sure Chris’s investment in such a detailed model is significant Revenue provides the capital for future models. His kits are such a level above all others.

Your artistry in hand painting these is amazing, well done!

Congratulations Mark, well done!

Sorry that happened, just another opportunity for creative problem solving. It seems you already have it well in hand. Enjoy your week off.

I was looking at the edge, didn’t see that. I’d guess Chuck would send replacements, he’s excellent about doing that. I’d recommend PMing him. Based on the many Winchelsea logs I follow it’s an exception and an uncommon problem.

We in the US just assume everyone in the UK is rich😂🤣

Sand them before removing them. It’s not uncommon. Here’s an example cannon carriage half sanded, half not.

I have a source for adhesive sandpaper I cut into small pieces. I also found the supplied paper not helpful. I make custom sanding sticks and foam sanders. Comes from Soft Sanders

Excellent planking Derek. I’m a big fan of the Proxxon mini-sander and the various end tips that come with it, comes in handy a lot. The curves at the stern are such joy. My only disappointment is I didn’t see any new tools I just had to have. I was a bit behind on your log, I’m really impressed, as I often am with your work, with how you scratch built your ladders. Very clever.