glbarlow
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Everything posted by glbarlow
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Excellent planking! -
Wow! Really well done. Where is the not perfect part, I can’t imagine them done any better. Always look forward to your posts and imagine a day when I get this far, and only hope I do it near as well. I might as well ask for that third set now.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Well done, I will remember using those lines to line up the carlings. Nice and crisp!
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Not only does it offend the eye I’m not sure how practical it is. Much more practical to me is like you’re doing, shifting the joints of the planks. Not only is it a practice run for the second planking it makes for a sound hull, as well as showing the true run of the planks. Nice work!
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- Indefatigable
- Vanguard Models
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Not correcting JJ, just amplifying, the square stock is indeed useful for leveling and keep the respective sides lined up, it takes a village. Glad it’s helpful, I refer to JJ’s and others all the time. It takes a village, oh I already said that 😊
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Just remember that ultimately the ports aren’t square as they follow the sheer. This gets to be fun planking above the wales.
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No way, my eyes would give out and I’d break every part.
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Late to the party… Is the second planking going to follow the pattern of the first?
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Well that was impressive Chris. Right on point of the post with a clear and sharp answer, and one founded on just the least bit of information. Nice!
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Why is dying a question, thread and rope are available in every color needed. Wasn’t dying a thing with old, long ago kits that just through in white cordage. I’ve used both CA and diluted white PVA (my formula is simple, it’s right when it’s milk not milkshake) both work fine in different ways with different results. I now prefer clear matte acrylic (my choice is Liquitex) for most rigging and especially ratlines. It dries clear and near invisible leaving no shine or lumps. Rather than read all our opinions, do a test abs see what works best for you.
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Congratulations and well done James, very cool!
- 486 replies
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- Indefatigable
- Vanguard Models
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Looking nice, glad you’re returning to the bench.
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I’ve had mine since 2008, great tool. next up is the Proxxon mill, my third favorite tool after the sander and the saw. Then of course there is the thickness sander…
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There’s clearly patience and skill displayed in this step.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Split ring making process
glbarlow replied to Dave_E's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Use black annealed 24 gauge wire, i prefer Hilmans found on Amazon. A number 61 drill bit is the proper size for a split ring at 1:48 scale, I’m sure there is a 1:64 equivalent. Check out one of my recent Winchelsea posts for how I make them. The requirement for cutting them is a high quality (the normal modelers wire snips or regular wire cutters won’t do) flush cut wire cutter. The best source for these are jewelry making websites like Rio Grande I like this particular flush cutter found Here on Amazon. Most cutters smash the wire, these provide a clean cut. Just cut through the spiral of wire a few at a time, there will be a little waste with each first cut, but with a little practice you’ll have just what you need. That same wire can be used to make eyelets, I showed how I do that in my Winchelsea build log as well. Here’s the result:
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It is a chunky thing. I guess that’s what a razee looks like. Seems it would be heavy at the stern, but it worked. Good looking infrastructure.
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- Indefatigable
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Thank you for the comment, glad it was of help. Enjoy your build!
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- lady nelson
- victory models
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Thank you! That is so true. I was thinking about that, how way back when I spent all that time on aligning stern frames ad fitting those sills using the frame blocks. The windows at the stage just dropped into place.
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Nice hinges!
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Welcome to the “I Faired a Winnie” club. You’ve won a large bottle of Advil and a trip to the chiropractor🤣
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There is no reason to edge glue any planking, especially on the deck. I’ll suggest a different experiment ,try medium gel CA, not the thin stuff, and just on the bottom of the plank. I suggest you taper with a straight metal edge and a #11 blade, you’ll get a much cleaner edge. Many of us have done it successfully with this method, just takes a little practice. As Chuck describes a #2 pencil on only one edge of facing planks is all you need for caulking. I used CA on the hull planking, it came out ok. However I used ordinary white PVA for the deck using scrap planks as a deck clamp, photos on my log. I know you like to go your own way, but there’s a lot to learn from others.
- 389 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Thank you BE, very kind of you. However, your work is no anti climax, I’ve followed your work for years. Your Cheerful log was one of my main go-tos as I built mine a few years ago.
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Thank you for the kind words. I hope my log helps others as I’ve so often been helped myself.
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