glbarlow

It’s just a pre- announcement of a ‘copy’ being pieced together now by some Chinese hack. 😳 I just read it as well (as a guest, I was kicked out long ago). Interesting how some members are complimentary while the staff and admins work hard to disparage Chuck at every turn. This comment by a member “ I emailed Chuck with updates and progress pictures and found him to be very personable, interested and encouraging. A much more personal investment of his time and interest than one might otherwise expect from the head of a commercial venture.“ must have really hurt.

You could stop right here and it would be an amazing model.

Channels Initial progress on channels, a really fun opportunity to cut away some of that moulding I so lovingly added a long time ago. But before starting that I decided to bite the bullet to remove and replace the port lids. As I’ve mentioned a few times I have broken and glued back these lids too many times to count, all of course due to carelessness. It took some delicate work to remove them and the hinges without damaging the hull, especially the friezes. This time I used the wider, thicker hinges @Chuck offers. Unlike I failed to do before I kept these movable rather than fixed. I can now display these more like the right most port. My lesson learned is to install the port with both ends of the hinge on the lid, not one part on the hull and the other on the lid then threading the wire to connect them. This time I was able to keep the hinge tight enough to hold position. My first effort ended up with ‘floppy’ lids so I had to glue them into a fixed position, and by consequence made them vulnerable to my careless movements. Though it took several days it was a good call to take this step back and get a better result. I’m happy to report the friezes all survived as did my sanity. Well the friezes survived around the ports anyway. Cutting away moulding the exact width and shape needed for the channels was pucker time, go slow, measure once, twice, three times before cutting, did I mention go slow. @FrankWouts was wise to factor this in at the time he installed his moulding, wish I’d thought of that. I did remove and replace the frieze below the fore channel, it didn't prove necessary for the main and mizzen. The beauty of this forum is the willingness to share means and methods. Something I always try to do and certainly take advantage of myself. This surgical tool, for podiatry I think, is absolutely perfect. My thanks to @Blue Ensign for sharing it. Two choices for replaceable blades: The wider chisel blade is thin, sharp and the perfect width for pushing through the moulding, keeping a clean edge on the remaining moulding either side. The smaller blade that opens up the slot for the strap perfectly. I have used this tool repeatedly for many varied purposes when my even my mini-Veritas chisels (@DelF) prove to large. A multi purpose sharp, light tool for model work. I have not yet tried them on my feet. I have a wood chisel set for my lathe that until now were a bit too large to be useful. However one of those with a tight, sharp curved edge was perfect to notch and shape the moulding to match the channel. You can see the wood handle in the background, I failed to include it in the photo. The tall height gauge, courtesy of @Stuntflyer, was very helpful in keeping the channels level with the waterline, I added the bubble level to make sure it was first level itself. I need a better platform for it than a bowl, but it does the job. The tumblehome of the hull distorts what level seems just looking at it, the gauge brings it to actual level. Long ago I acquired ebony deadeyes I wanted to use, however the center diameter of these proved too large for Chuck’s nice acrylic strops. So after splitting a few to learn that I went to Chuck’s make your own 5mm and 6mm versions. I still had a desire to go with ebony, but didn’t like my result just painting them black so I went with this ebony wood dye. With the thickness of water it takes 4 coats (and maybe still one more) to get them there, I like the resulting look. It’s hard to tell in the photos but the boxwood grain still shows through and they look more “natural,” not perfectly black. The little paint stand is a strip of wood with the mill cutting a groove its length. I didn’t take any photos of constructing the actual channels. Not much to it, just removing char, minimal shaping, and gluing together the three layers, and of course multiple coats of WOP. So here where it stands. I’m going to wait until I have all the 5 and 6 mm deadeyes finished and both port and starboard channels installed before finishing these (including straightening the smiling faces) to ensure uniformity. Not too much to go on chapter 11 after that, I’ve been working on the gangways, posts and ladders in parallel to the channels so it's fitting and mounting them. I’m of mixed thoughts on the swivel guns - so decision deferred for now. As always thanks for stopping by - I appreciate your taking the time with your likes and comments.

Glad you were able find the Uni-thread.

I always glue them firmly in place using guides and jigs. It’s important to me to have straight and level masts and bowsprit withe the proper angles as needed, using lines to achieve that is an exercise in futility for the perfectionist I am. Hardly cheating, it’s a model not an actual sailing craft. It’s more impressive and interesting to get it right. You don’t have the same ability to step and tension lines on a small 23” model nor the hundred or more sailors it took to do it pulling from multiple lines at the same time.

Well done as always BE. Another great model and another learning guide in the form of your log for those that follow. Always a joy to follow your logs!

Same bit I use

It will do that if you try to upload a large number of photos at once, like 20 or more though it may be size dependent also. Try a smaller number. Slow speed must be local, not so here.

It looks like a very old kit, the wheel especially. Amazing how far ship model design has advanced either Chris and Chuck at the forefront.

The stem looks so cool on Syren models.

Nice looking planking, well done. Looks link you’ve got lining well under control. I bend all my planks with steam and heat from a travel iron. Once I converted to Chuck’s planking technique I never looked back.

Next level, quite amazing!

Thanks, lining them up is a sticky challenge but worked out ok.

Fenders and Chesstrees Keeping with shorter posts: Added the fenders and chesstrees to the hull. Each consist of a center and two outer layers glued together providing a nice dimensional look. After removing char the center piece is tapered from top to bottom and the outer edge slightly rounded before the two very thin are added (amazing to have layered wood on this thin a sheet of wood). With great trepidation I removed the center moulding. Then came a lot of careful shaping to conform these to my particular hull - both patience and time are required following the firm rule of while you can remove wood, you can’t put it back. I tried printing the frieze on tissue paper, really I tried. While successful the color and texture just weren’t a good match for me, probably the wrong tissue paper or I need more practice doing it. I was however successful using the original paper printed frieze. Ample use of the same glue stick used for the hull softens the paper and allowed me to get a match. With Chuck’s suggested tooth pick approach I was able to guide the paper into the groove created by the three pieces. I also rounded out the sheave on the chess tree before applying the outer pieces along with a little 7mm lead pencil. I’ve still not mounted the waist cannon, but set them for the photo. The addition of the fenders, chess tree, and ladder really bring the hull alive. My one regret is while the boxwood for the ladder match, the AYC for the fenders are way whiter than the hull despited several coats of WOP. I kinda wish they had been boxwood as well to match the moulding. I note however, at this point the hull planking is near three years old. I am confident in time the fenders and chess tree, like the hull, will mellow and blend in. I’m moving onto the waists platforms and will finish chapter 11 with the channels. Thanks for stopping by.

Just found this. Once again I’ll live vicariously through your work. Off to another great start Rusty!

Surely there’s a way to model the deck without hiding all this amazing below deck detail.

Nice coils and rope work. Your effort and skills on the details really makes your model stand out.

I pin the backside of the yard to the mast with a little CA - completely invisible and holds it in place. The gentle torque of the appropriate lines keeps it squared up beyond that. Your servings look great, well done.

Just click on your profile, its right there.

Plus it looks cool 😄

Because you're supporting this site. True you can free load and never contribute through NRG or the Donations tag at the top, but if enough did that they MSW wouldn't have the funds to operate. Shell out the very nominal membership fee, you can display or not the avatar once you do.

Those are some nice looking gratings Frank. I considered not painting as well but in the end decided to do so. I’d suggest you consider your entire deck plan for paint colors and/or natural. My thought was if the gratings were natural so would have to be other furniture/fittings and that I liked the contrast the black provided to the red and yellow cedar. It is you ship, whatever you decide it will turn out great.

I start with an acetone bath, then blackening for 90 seconds, then a water rinse, dry and a slight buff with a soft cloth. The acetone bath is an important step. I have learned not all blackening solutions, like CA, are equal in quality or results. Foe me paint designed to look like metal rather than just black paint works ok, but only if weathering powder is applied, and not as good as blackening for some things.

Thank you JJ, as long as we’re having fun right. Thanks Rusty. Accurate description, and I have so many upcoming opportunities to get freaked out.

Thank you. At least that piece got a fresh coat of paint.