glbarlow

I use my Byrnes sander for the leading edge since I want them precise and tight fit. The top edges I use little hand made sanding blocks, I’ve shown them in my logs. The top doesn’t have to be that precise,it’s more to get the top inside edge off

I'd suggest trying heat bending the plank off the ship and dry fitting the plank to fit before gluing it on rather bending it as you glue it on. Bevel the leading edge to about 30 degrees to fit the stem and bevel to the top edge slightly of each plank to tightly fit the one above it. You're correct no tapering for the ones over the gun port pattern but start tapering after those the rest of the way. Pause about half way down and plank up from the bottom for at least two maybe three rows. That way any adjusting you have to do as you finish the side is don under the belly where it won't show. You're on a roll now

I appreciate your doing that, it’s considerate. Every photograph I take, as do most photographers, has the copyright and contact information embedded in the metadata. It’s easy to access with common software which every publishing agency would know. As an aside I can remove a watermark in Photoshop without any trace in about 30 seconds. Of course I wouldn’t do that, but the art thieves often do just that.

Rolled white paper is a very common way to take product photos, whatever the subject. The challenge is lighting the paper separately (and much brighter) than the subject of the image. It’s simple but not easy and require the right gear.

Shoot images in RAW, ADJUST web to taste In Lightroomor Photoshop. Very simple and easy.

As a photographer it makes my skin crawl for people to expect to use my images for free, even worse when they say they’ll give me “photo credit” and that I should appreciate the publicity of their use of my image would provide. There is a Google search photographers can use to find mis-appropriation of my copyright. I found an English travel agency using my images to sell travel to Iceland. I sent them a bill, they replied with the photo credit thing and “offered” to remove the photo, which of course I told them to do. Bottom line, content isn’t free. Just because people post images on Instagram or post on line news articles doesn’t mean it’s free. My experience is photography, but the same is true for written content. As someone noted expecting content to be free is why magazines are gone and newspapers not far behind. If your interested in something, word or image, you should be willing to pay the creator for the privilege of accessing it.

That’s some great looking rigging, more nice work.Your so close to the finish line now. Hen it’s “oh, that as the last thing, now what do I do…”. I spent 4 days cleaning out and reorganizing my ship room… You should complain to the captain about the poor Viking deck, what are they thinking. 😂

While I used my Byrnes saw for the pillars I didn’t have a scroll saw at the time. A jewelers saw works fine for the legs, about $17 on Amazon. It’ll be fun.

I had to rely on my past experience to sort out the stern, in the end I mostly winged it to make it work, so your experience, and that of our parrot friend, isn’t unusual. Give some thought to scratch building the bits. It isn’t hard and it’s good experience. While cutting them may have worked not it seems they have no legs to brace the bowsprit in a high wind.🙂

I think you’ regret the gaps later. Don’t be reluctant to pull planking off and do it again. I ripped portions of the port planking twice and the starboard planking three times. it didn’t bother me to do that and I had the wood to do it over…and over. Here is a mindset I had to develop after so many years of kit building: With Cheerful we aren’t limited to any single width of plank. There are multiple widths included on the wood list, we can cut a slightly wider or more narrow plank to make it work. 5/32, 7/32, 3/16, it just takes patience and trial runs, maybe a little ripping off to get it to work. Once you have it sanded and WOP’d it will look great and you’ll never know where you made the adjustments. There are certain places you have to be exact, that 1/16th strip and the wales placement are two of them. From there compute the distance and cut planks to fit. You have a well faired hull, the planking will come out fine. If I can offer one piece of advice, don’t settle or accept work you know isn’t right. You’ll sort it out and all will be great at the end. You might recall in my log I noted I felt like I’d planked two Cheerful’s but had only one to show for it 🤣

Great looking oars, displaying them on a rack is a nice touch. Well done as always BE - enjoy the wilds. Isn't Yorkshire where the Hobbits live 😄

I like the use of the nail file. You knocked out those trim pieces easily.

Wow, I really appreciate all the kind words. Thank you all very much!

You put @username while your typing the post and a drop down box will appear with names, like @Freezing Parrot then that person gets notified. There is a little icon that looks like two chain links leaning to the left when your creating your post, click on it and complete the dialog box. Your can click and highlight a portion of a repliers post and a post will pop up with Quote Selection. Click on it and it will create a reply back to that person. Good, glad to see you have a plan to get you there on the first planking. My point about advice is while some of its bad, often there is good advice from two people that are opposing methods, both will work fine, but as the builder, especially as a first timers you need to choose one of the two, not do both. Judging by the photo you’re going by you’ll be fine. We don’t want you to be one of those builders that just stops posting. I mean MSW really needs a freezing parrot amongst us😀

That’s too much! The plans should show a bearding line, it would be a lot less than that. It looks like you’d already taken a lot from the former, plus you could sand down the first layer a lot. You need something to glue the sternpost to. You may need to replace those lower ones. Then just sand down to match the sternpost with the second layer. One problem with all the great advice is not to follow all of it, sometimes it conflicts. Hang in there.

I’ve reached the end of my thirteen month journey, this is my 59th and final log post on my build of HM Cheerful. Thank you to the 52 of you who’ve followed my build and the many others who have stopped by with a like. A special thank you to all who’ve taken the time to leave a comment, many of you more than once. It is inspiring to read your replies, often they were my motivation for the next post. When I thought about building HM Cheerful, I started by reading the first couple of chapters of the monograph downloaded from the Syren Ship Model Company website located here. I say first couple it’s because I stopped reading, realizing there were so many things, techniques, processes, skills, and knowledge I didn’t possess. There were many big steps, starting with single planking a hull I would not paint, I had no idea how I’d accomplish (I’m still not sure why a square tuck is actually a triangle). I dove in anyway, figuring it out as I went, trusting I’d come up or find the solution. I knew one thing, I wasn’t going to quit. I sincerely thank @Chuck for his unwavering support and guidance, aside from a great design and mini-kits, he is always available to answer my questions. I also want to thank those who came before. Aside from frequently reviewing Chuck’s build log in addition to the superbly written monograph I also found @Blue Ensign and @Rustyj to be reliable resources, I thank them as well for the help I obtained from their Cheerful build logs many years after they’d completed them. Finally my thanks to @DelF. While he isn’t building Cheerful (yet) he and I frequently exchange PMs, me the greater benefactor of his master level skills and techniques I was able to apply to my own build. Both our work shops are the richer for “hey I want one of those, where’d you get it…' Aside from building my first semi-scratch model I wanted to create a log that not only tracked my progress but was detailed enough to be of assistance to future builders, paying it forward for all I’ve learned from others. I wanted to de-mystify aspects of this build, step by over-written, over-photographed step. I realize maybe it wasn’t always the best solution and often was one I modified or learned from others. They were methods that worked for me. I took as much satisfaction in writing the log and filling it with photos as I did the actual building. As a result I’m sure I’m in the running for the ‘excessive use of the written word’ award. Many of you have commented I have been of some help, I’m very glad to know that. My related objective was to provide enough of a resource that others looking at Cheerful as a build option and first thought “no way,” might instead take it on. I hope I’ve done enough to encourage others to say “well that guy did it…” So with that, here are the final photos of my finished HM Cheerful: I hope to read and follow your Cheerful logs, it is a well designed model and a fun build. At the request of my neck and shoulder muscles I’m going to take a break from building, but I’ll be back. Thank you for hanging out with me!

You might want to put a few planks as a deck in the open area below the skylight. You can’t see much through the window on mine, but there is the glimmer of a planked floor. The 1/64th rabbit is a challenge, I’ll also be interested to see how your jig works out. Perfection is achieved on alternate Thursdays…😊 Great work on the mini-kits, they are a fun part of the build. I also did them early when I needed a break from building the hull.

The Amati keel clamp is what I use, plus cradles I make from scrap wood depending on what stage I’m at https://www.micromark.com/Amati-Keel-Klamper-Swivel-Vise-for-Ship-Modelers

Wow, thank you for the comment, that’s quite a lot. I do ok I think, but there are many many builders far better than me, maybe I write a lot more. I’ve taken the photos, just need to sort through them and put the post together. Thanks again for your post, I really appreciate the kind words.

I used this same Amati clamp throughout my build, and other builds, without any problem.

They don’t necessarily have to be the same height off the deck, they are more tuned to the wales and the waterline. As you note, test fit the cannons to see if any adjustments are necessary. I know I didn’t make any. some members, and we all enjoy having them, are better at commenting than building, a grain of salt is advised. Remember the only judge that matters is you. It’s your ship.

Nice work on the garboard planks!

Thank you Herman for the kind words. I still shiver when I recall the first frame crashing to the floor.

As shown in my log I had three different sized hatches as I took from the plans. For reasons I don’t recall and make no sense I reversed the aft most hatch and the companionway. I’m sure what ever makes you happy with the deck furniture works. The hatch covers are a good time to experiment with basic scratch building. The walnut strip in my kit was so brittle I couldn’t get anything decent. So I used some boxwood I had and made lap joints, more realistic than 45 degree mitre joints. But again, be successful and have fun on your first model, it’s a learning experience to build on. I didn’t make any changes to my gun angles, I’d definitely wait until the final deck to even consider it. As you get there I’ll note I had to scratch built the bits, I couldn’t ‘get the bowsprit to fit otherwise. FYI, I successfully obtained my college degree, and I had to work at this using other electives, without taking a single math course😂😅🤣 I’m quite proud of that, but never told my kids so maybe not that proud.

Your fairing indeed has paid off. It feels good to get those first planks on, you’re off to a great start!