glbarlow

The Masts A few more things to build as I tackled the masts. I described turning the mast with the lathe in an earlier post, the top mast followed the same process so I won’t repeat it here. The trees proved to be a fun little mini-project, more complex than I had thought. The things we remove from the laser cut parts sheet of a kit this time I made from scratch using three sizes of wood. I cut and shaped the cheeks from 3/64 wood, flattened the sides of the masts and attached them. I cut out the bows of the tree from the plans and glued them to 1/8 wood and rough cut them with the scroll saw. I’m comfortable cutting outside the edges, I’d rather sand it to the proper shape, but the scroll saw makes that so much less work to do. I sanded the outside curve with my Byrnes sander then back to my various sanding tools to get the inside curve proper. Using extra long 3/32 wood cut to size I added the three required slots using my now trusty mill. I’m so glad I bought the MF 70, it’s more than proved its usefulness during my build. A quick assembly of the parts matched up to the plans then came the tricky, and as my British friends say, fiddly part. Adjusting the cheeks and mast so that the trees are parallel to the deck consistent with the aft rake of the mast takes a bit of time. No magic, just cut file, dry-fit, adjust repeatedly until its right. The key of course is to go slow, as always you can take more off but you can’t put it back on. I used the laser level to make sure the mast was in the right position and bubble levels on the deck and trees adjusting until they matched up. One thing to remember, with all the attention on adjusting the parallel it also has to remain horizontally level to the deck. Seems obvious but easy enough to forget. I used black masking tape for the mast bands, handy stuff and another Amazon purchase. Another handy tool is this centering ruler, I used it to locate where each of the top three eyebolts, made from 24 gauge black wire, are drilled and glued in. For the bottom mast ban I cut, shaped, and blackened a bit of 1/64 x 3/32 brass strip. The mast side was simply filed down into a bolt size pin and glued into a drilled hole. This extended bolt is a small detail, but aside from being authentic it really adds to the overall appearance of the trees. The mast cap was another adventure and a reminder about how smart model designers are when they cut parts boards. You’d think rectangular block, two holes, one round one square, done. Which is essentially true but it too has to be cut to be parallel on the raked mast, done. What’s a tad tricker is the distance between the two holes. Despite following the plans, the main, top mast, and trees don’t end up being precisely sized (at least not mine). The spacing of the holes on the mast cap have to be such that the top mast and mast, again accounting for rake, are also parallel to each other (adjusting for very small .5-1.5mm differences). Which is a long way to say I had to make a second one when the matched to plan’s version had the top mast with more rake than the mast. Clearly user error, I sorted it out but the mast cap proved to be more than just a little block of wood with two holes. Back to the mill to cut a nice little 6mm truck for the top mast and we’re done. The trees as a mini-project all took a bit of time but really was kind of fun to sort out. I painted it all black and added the 4 eyebolts to the mast cap. I rigged the block to the two sides. The fore and aft bolt blocks have tackle attached, so the eyebolts aren’t glued in. I’ll remove them, add the blocks and tackle, and glue them in at an appropriate time. Still nothing glued together at this point, all dry-fitted to ensure it all works. I may not glue the top mast and mast cap onto the mast until after the shrouds and more of the rigging new dropped into the gap between. I followed Chuck’s recommendation of using a Dremel to sand off the char from the mast rings by attaching them to the centers I removed after. The char was a bit challenging, but I kinda like them like this, distinctive character. I turned my attention to the base of the mast, remembering to put on the mast rings before adding the boom rest. I got a little carried away and failed to take photos of this step. I went a different way with the boom rest, I decided to use my original and ultimately too small mast coat by cutting it in half for the boom rest, I like the look and it was a good fit. Then I added the cleats from Syren after sanding the char and shaping them a bit. Each are pinned by a cut-off kit nail into holes between the cleat and mast. Some of these will bear tension later, don’t want them popping off. And finally I painted it my favorite red from the boom rest to the deck. I like to rig as much as I can off the boat, so much easier that way. So added the three blocks on the top mast for the eventual stays The port and starboard block need a bit of length given the way the tackle will run, I tried a couple of options then settled on my standard method using 50wt thread but instead of the usual 5-7 turns I added 21. That seem to give it the right heft and length. My new cuticle cutters proved handy for a tight trim, but as I’ve noted before care is required to not cut things you don’t want to cut. I don’t know how many times I’m going to have to learn that lesson. The boom and gaff were cut on the lather the same way as the masts, though I just used a dowel instead of cutting from square stock. The bands are also from black masking tape. I cut the jaws using a jewelers saw, once again with the pattern cut from the plans and rubber cemented onto the wood. I then used the usual practice of rubber cementing the two jaws together back to back and sanding them into identical pieces before adding to the boom (the photo is before all that sanding was completed). Both it and the gaff are painted black still using Admiralty Paints Iron Works Black and onward we go. I’ll now decide it I want to shape the two yards while my work area is a mess of sawdust, or change it up and do some rigging Thanks for stopping by. The comments and likes are always appreciated.

That’s some fine cutting on the scroll saw, I couldn’t get remotely close doing that. Best of luck turning her over, or maybe you can lay on the ground and work up from the bottom 🤣😁

That’s a lot of informed customization. I’m challenged enough sorting out scaled vs. actual, too much math. I’ve found I can influence the set of the deadeye by where I set the lanyard knot, twisting it left or right on the shroud. Not really a reliable process but it works some the time, and it may not work on a served line, but anyway... Once again your nautical knowledge is impressive, as well as your always excellent craftsmanship.

It shouldn’t matter if it’s oil based on the first planking, may be an issue for second planking. You have plenty of wood to sand. Can’t have it all filler.

Oh, I see. I checked, that's just an artifact of the lighting and the photo. The very end/tip of the bowsprit is sanded smooth, but the grain of the wood does appear - especially after adding the WOP. Very fine eyes you have there Mr. Garthog.

My favorite more like toothpaste consistency than what you have. The quad hands is only one solution. I’m sure what you have is fine.

I’ve mentioned in my log that riogrande.com, a jewelry store is a excellent source for modelers tool including ring making mandrels.

It is a difference maker and well worth it. I find the 4 hand option more to my liking with its smaller footprint.

You want the first planking as smooth and even as you can get it. It dictates the look of the second planking.

If I’m looking at the same photo, the bowsprit fire end from the side?, that is the block on the far side sticking out. They aren’t rigged yet. The blocks and the guy hooks share the same ring bolt. or was it something else?

Sorry Bob, the specific brand escapes me. They are ring mandrels I ran across on Amazon while looking for something else. Very inexpensive and quite useful.

I know the feeling. They have a different angle of cut, I have to tilt my hand more. But they are handy.

Congratulations on the first planking, great work!

I think I learned putting as much on the mast off the ship from you. It’s looking really good, maybe call in sick for an extra day😂🤣

I see the point. I also go back and forth, it doesn’t take me but a minute to loosen two Allen screws and lift it off. At any rate it’s good there is an option. I know I’ve never cut anything that would need that extra width.

As most everyone says there is no saw but the Byrnes saw. He has zero clearance inserts very cheap, no reason to make one. He has a 220v version and many Europeans have one. He and his wife are a two person business. He can’t quickly respond to everyone, he spends most of his days making great saws. The extended fence is a must, for me the micrometer I have and never use. I also haven’t needed the zero clearance insert I bought and have ripped and cut everything for my Cheerful without one. I had it in and took it off. Jim’s blade selections are the best there are for his saw. He carefully researched them. You don’t need a bunch of blades, the 30 kerf slitting blade is all I’ve used for Cheerful. Maybe a spare one of those. Plus the big one that comes with it. You don’t need an adapter if you use his blades, which you should. I can’t imagine the need for a wider table. I’ve had my saw for 12 years and that need never came up. The best accessory other than the extended fence and the extended mitre gauge rail is the sliding table. When I’m not ripping planks I use it a lot, it’s easy to put on and take off. I never knew I needed it until I got it. Cutting the hatch covers for Cheerful was a piece of cake with it. It may cost more but it’s worth every cent. Mine has run faithfully for a long time. The slitting blade so far is the only “part” I’ve replaced.

Thanks Rusty, I appreciate your saying so!

I cut, removed, modified, replaced, tossed, enough wood on my Cheerful to feel like I’ve built it twice. Just keep making them until you have 2 you like. Wait until you get to the boom crutches, there’s some real fun to be had there.

Thank you for saying so. It is so much fun to build.

The rigging looks great as does the model. When I get to Flirt your log will be my constant reference. Let’s make sure our wives don’t learn how much we’ve influenced each other’s tool purchases. btw, it’s Cheerful, not Alert😁

I love my MF 70, it is a great machine for modeling wood and brass. I can’t imagine though it would meet the specs you listed. That’s pretty heavy duty work. I’d highly recommend the MF70 to a model builder but not an iron worker.

Thank you. That is my hope. Yours is coming along great!

Thank you for the comment. I’m sure there’s an equivalent on Amazon UK. 😊 Cuticle cutter

The Masting & Rigging Begins A new stage of building has begun. With the hull complete its time for the masting and rigging, beginning with the bowsprit. I kind of enjoy this part of the model, and once again (he said again), Cheerful is taking me into new territory. The bowsprit bobstay and guys, or as someone with my level of nautical knowledge calls them, the bow stringy things, require both served line and thimbles. So there was a pause while I assembled the Syren Serv-O-Matic I’d purchased a long while ago. It was time consuming and not at all fun removing all the char from each piece, but Chuck is right in the instructions to encourage us to do so. It does look much better once done and coated with WOP. Now to figure out how to use it, I thought it would be more complicated than the simple instructions explain. Turns out it wasn’t - its the perfect machine to serve rope quickly and easily. My first effort, which I thought would be practice, was good enough to use. It takes no more effort than turning the crank and a steady hold on the thread. Next up are the thimbles. I found this nifty brass tube cutter at Rio Grande Jewelery tube cutter which has a number of handy tools for modelers. It comes with a handle, I removed that and mounted in on my vise. It proved to be an excellent way to quickly generate short lengths of very thin brass tube with a neat cut. Just set the length with the screw guide, hold the lever down with one finger, place the jig saw in the slot and cut. My $17 (including a bunch of blades) Amazon jig saw proved its quality and value once again, cutting as many as I wanted without fail or issue. I found (thanks to @DelF ) that a spring loaded punch is much more effective for me at consistently generating an even “fold” on the both sides of the brass tube to create the thimble. While of course a hammer and regular punch work fine, I more often than not crushed one side or the other - why practice my hammering skills when the $9 spring loaded version (Amazon) does the job. After creating a number of them in different sizes I blacked them using my standard process. I have plenty of commercial hooks, eyelets, and rings - and I’m not using any of them. In fact I pulled off the ones I had placed earlier (down the center of the deck) and replaced them with home made versions, mostly of 24 gauge black wire. The heft of these on a 1:48 scale model is noticeable. After some practice and a bit of wasted wire, I now have my own way of knocking out all the eyelets, rings, and hooks I need for Cheerful. It was good I did because the thimbles require a hook with a larger eyelet to connect the hook to the rope. I learned my rigging technique from Bob Hunt’s practicums, his AVS was my first model many years ago. The “fishing lure” method of seizing has served me well, but I thought I’d look at other methods and did a little research. I came to the conclusion that while there are in fact many ways to seize lines and strop blocks, after experimenting with a few of them I’m content to continue with the one that I’ve been using. With two additions: First, thanks again to Derek, in some instances I’ll use thin fly tying line and in others I’ll continue to use 50wt Gutterman poly thread. My only issue with the fishing lure method has been the small thread ends that were left despite my using high quality Gingher embroidery scissors. Second, thanks to @Ryland Craze I now have the answer to that issue by using extremely sharp and close cuticle cutters, my newest ‘tool’ investment (again from my friend Amazon). They are so flush cutting and sharp they can also cut the wood of the block, which I did and consequently had to replace, so care is needed. I also vary the use of watered down white glue, hypo-cement, and CA depending on the situation. I'm comfortable with each, they each have their pros and cons, why fixate on just one or the other. Finally, I have a bunch of empty thread spools to transfer Chucks now historical rope, marked with the size. Not sure what I’ll do when these go empty for the last time, maybe a Rope Rocket in my future, but not for this model - I have what I need. And off I went. The bowsprit collar is shrink wrap plastic (but I also use black card or black masking tape again depending on the situation). The rings in this case are made from 22 gauge black wire for some extra heft and of course a little (very little) weathering powder brushed on. The blocks are seized to the hooks with fly fishing line while the served rope is seized with 50wt poly thread. The thimbles are from 1.6mm thin brass tube (yes, Amazon). The hooks have larger eyelets to accommodate the thimbles. Of note these where done before my “discovery’ of cuticle cutters, but I didn’t want to go in there after the fact for fear of cutting off more than I wanted to cut in such close quarters. This is one of this macro hi-res photo things. I didn’t even notice excess thread until I looked at the photo for this log entry. Here’s the bowsprit end of the bobstay tackle and guys, naturally I’m using blocks from Syren. And the bow side view of the same. The bobstay is belayed to its pin, but loosely. Like most I don’t tension the lines completely until later. The guy lashing took some experimentation (it was replaced more than once) and research, none of which was definitive. I learned many different techniques were used both by modelers and on the actual ships. In the end I opted to seize the line at the bow eyelet and tie it off at the center after two loops through the guy thimble and seize the running end past the knot (essentially a sheeps bend). And…I remembered to put on the traveler before the blocks, so it will just hang there a while. Next I turn my attention to the mast. Thanks for stopping by, the likes and especially the comments are always welcomed and appreciated.

Your workmanship is topped by your knowledge of all things nautical. Always an enlightening story to read.