glbarlow

So, I’m sending you the boat parts from my Flirt kit to make for me. This is really exceptional work, Such detail on a small scale. Too bad our mutual won’t see it, he’d probably have an informative comment to add. 😂🤣

That’s great news. A price list would be helpful, even if it’s a .pdf we can download from his MSW account.

The Main Stay, Foresail Halyard, and Jib Halyard It bears saying again. I am grateful for all the build logs on MSW. I learn so much from so many, I hope my log helps others as I’ve been helped. Back to work, though work has slowed down lately. I think I’m either reluctant to reach the finish line or procrastinating because ratlines are now on the agenda. I do not like ratlines, Sam I am. The good news is there are only eight total shrouds so how long could it take…I don’t know because I haven’t started them… The Main Stay It’s just one ‘string’ but the main stay takes some time and thought to get right. It’s served around the mast to just below the eye, so I had to do a bit of measuring and testing to determine where that was. There is no precise definition of where to form the eye, I just eye-balled how big I wanted it to be it using the .054 Dark Brown rope that is used on the stay. I found a black grease pencil useful for marking the dark brown rope (or China marker I believe my Brit friends say). The black is hard to see but there is no chance it will show through the serving, so I prefer it to a brighter color. The measurement is a little tricky, the stay sits on top of a lot of other rope around the mast head, it’s important to make sure it’s snugly seated. The sling wants to get in the way so I had to check and recheck for a proper fit. Of course I served the stay extra long even having measured repeatedly, why not. Cheerful does not have a mouse on the main stay, instead it is a seized eye. This particular seized line required a different approach than my other seizings. In part because of the large .054 served rope and because it’s very visible, I wanted it to look good. My normal seizing technique just wouldn’t work to my satisfaction, so having marked where I wanted, I cut the end of the served line at a sharp angle (using the toe nail clippers, here they exceed both cuticle cutters and scissors). Important obvious note, the serving has to be sealed so it doesn’t explode as its cut. I elected to use CA to seal the end of the serving since the cut would be covered by the seizing. I then glued that angled cut to the running length of the stay, again using CA. (I didn't like how the serving looked terminated on the running end, so I cut off the one in the photo and did the whole thing again. BEFORE I did any of that I added the foresail Halyard block very loosely seized to the stay. This block, along with the tackle seized to the block are fitted to the main stay inside the loop and close to the trees. Even with the quad hands this would be a difficult block to add to a completed stay with its awkward location. It was SO much easier to slip it on before closing the eye, you can see it unfinished two photos above and the block seizing completed after the main stay is installed. (failed focus on this photo) To do the main stay seizing (you can see that loose foresail block in this photo as well ) I started by tying a square knot with 50wt polyester thread just below where I had glued the eye. I had used .012 rope on the shrouds and deadeyes and tried it here, it looked too heavy, the thread is a better look. I left enough of the short end to pass it up through the center of the seizing then proceeded to wrap with the long end of the thread until I was far enough over the splice to suit my eye. I’m normally big on precision with the number of wrappings, but here I just stopped when it looked right. Actually I went further, decided it was too much and backed up. I tied another square knot with the remaining long end and the short end of the thread on the bottom where it isn't seen. I painted it with very watered down white glue, now I have a main stay eye. On to the other end of the stay, I turned in the large 5 hole deadeye purchased from Syren just as I did the shroud deadeyes, clove hitch at the overlapped base and two seizings above (7 turns instead of the 10 at the deadeyes) per the plans. Here I went back to .012 rope because for the “heft.” The seizing of the lanyard is also a bit tricky. I ran a .025 lanyard connecting the stay to the stem, those 5 holes on the stem are finally used after the stem being one the very first things added to the ship so long ago. To finish it off requires a single hitch above the first seizing on the stay, then the running end of the lanyard seized to the stay. No problem, except all that is kinda hanging in the air and that hitch has to be kept taunt. I could have employed the quad hands, but room to work would be tight. Instead I tied the lanyard far up the stay with one short piece of tan rope and tied another to hold the loop of the seizing thread while I passed it around the stay between the seized loop with sharply pointed tweezers. In the photo I was using 50wt thread but after completing it I decided it was too heavy so I cut it off and re-did it with fly-tying thread. Just a quick moment to thank @DelFfor the fly-tying thread recommendation. I admit I was a bit skeptical at first, but since then I’ve used it to seize almost every block on the model. To me, it provides the right look and scale, and is well worth the not insignificant effort to see it while doing seizings. Not finding a good color match for the light and dark brown rope on Amazon, the thread came from some random fly fishing website found during a google search. Here is the finished stay at the lanyard end. Please note the proper stopper knot ripped from the pages of my Ultimate Book of Everyday Knots, a book I recommend for everyone including outside model building. Amazon has it Here Foresail Halyard Next up is the ratlines, nope I can put it off a little longer. Next up the foresail halyard. Having seized the block on the stay earlier this was now pretty easy. The running length goes to a block seized with a hook attached to an eyebolt just behind the stem (so that’s why I put that eyebolt there so long ago). Another note I’ve said before but bears repeating. Not every eyebolt/belaying point are highlighted early in the instructions for most any model. I always look ahead to the rigging section and study the plans to locate these. They are frequently so much easier to add early before room gets tighter. Like this one it can be forgotten for months until I actually need it. The running length runs down through that block, back up top and belays to a cleat at the base of the mast. This is makes for a really long piece of .018 rope. The challenge for this halyard is to balance the tension on the line enough so that it looks right, but not so tight that it’s pulling the stay out of alignment or into an award pulled out look. The halyard doesn’t really need to be very tight, over-tightening doesn’t gain anything. And now for the ratlines.- No wait, I can still put those off. Jib Halyard, In-haul, and Out-haul This one is fun. Three distinct tackle that work in sync with each other to manage the jib. I made up all three as a first step knowing I’d install them as a working unit. A .018 line seized to a block at the mast cap runs down through a block seized to a hook (I installed that eyebolt but left it unglued before placing the mast cap, so again an easy install on the block). That hook is seized to the hook on the traveler ring I had remembered to add way back when installing the bowsprit. It’s just going to flop around there for a minute. On a side note, the mast is looking pretty cool with all those served ropes. (another focus problem, I’m getting sloppy) The out-haul starts with a stopper knot (again from my book of knots, I normally just do a figure eight knot when a stopper is required, but like the main stay lanyard its very visible) runs from the traveler ring forward to the sheave cut into the bowsprit (so that’s what that’s for) back to the fixed block I’d made on the starboard side of the stem, then up and over belayed to the bowsprit bitts starboard post. Finally, the trickiest of three lines, the in-haul, is actually two ropes joined together (no thimble this time). It requires a V with its ends tied to either side of the traveler ring (I gently glued these with the lightest touch of CA to keep them on the sides and not slip down to the bottom of the ring) with the peak of the V seized to another rope (all of these are .018). To have the V centered I attached the two ends to the traveller then seized a loop at the resulting center. The result is the in-haul with its two seized lines laying along top of the bowsprit and belayed to the port bitts post. I left the loops at the joining of the two ropes a little large to give a better look of the joined lines, no reason to squeeze them tight. The tricky and fun part is pulling the right tension on all three, back and forth and together to arrange the traveler ring into a fixed position on the bowsprit. Per the plans I chose this to be 80mm from the far end of the bowsprit, which kinda looks right. And this is how it all looks like this in the end. And now it’s time for the ratlines..unless there is something else I can find to do first…. Thanks for stopping by. The likes and especially the comments are always appreciated.

Everything builds on a future thing. Those sills become a 1/64th rabbit later. The sweep and heights are both critical. You can get a little leeway with sanding them so better to be a fraction high than low. You pegged it, they are fiddley. Glad you’re enjoying my log as I will yours. Fun to see where I was a year ago.

Just found your log, you’re off to a great start, both to building and your log. Congrats on a good beginning. With single planking getting the fairing right now is so essential and well worth taking the time, it pays big dividends later.

Your research and sourcing for accuracy is amazing and informative. I just tie the little stringy stuff around the wooden thingy. Though for the record I did look to my book of knots to tie a proper stopper knot for the jib out haul.

I really had to bring out the nautical dictionary just to follow this one. Who came up with these names 😂🤣

Your approach is so much more skillful than my “the oars were stored below deck” version. 😂

Well done Tim. Skilled work and very impressive. Here’s the place I’ve ordered all my models brass name plates. They have any number of variations on size and mounting (I use adhesive backing). They are always fast, responsive, and inexpensive. https://halexawards.com/index.htm I look forward to seeing your next log😊

Thanks for sharing. I did see that video but didn’t find it was what I was looking for. I have now come up wit something based on several other references. I’ll have to perfect my application of those and will share it once I do.

If anyone has a clever way of doing rope coils for the pin rails I’d love to see it. So far mine aren’t up to my expectations

Thanks, I appreciate the comment and glad you find my log useful. My photography has suffered this past year, I’m looking forward to getting back out in the field. Speedy is a great choice.

Thanks Jean Paul. I’m looking forward to following your Cheerful adventure as well.

I’m very happy to hear that. I appreciate getting that feedback. Thank you.

Thank you Rusty. I’ve been trying to bring my rigging skill up a notch, can’t hide much at 1:48, I appreciate your saying so.

I like the bright colors and personally prefer hand painting to airbrushing wood models. Nice work. The design is clearly impressive. Can't wait to get mine. (and red and blue it will be...)

Your craftsmanship always amazes me. I've never liked the PE oars either. My answer was to not include them on the model. I'd not have been as creative as you in thinking to make better ones....

Thanks Greg, they were a fun little make. I almost first removed them from the frame and then thought...wait a minute. A trip sanding the edges of those tiny things but they do look nice finished.

Thanks Derek, I agree. The shroud gang around the mast cap looks so much better.

The Rigging Continues I had never served a rope on any of my previous models I’m sad to say. In fact as I was starting Cheerful last year I wasn’t sure I would on it either, I wasn’t sure I wanted to get into it. During this phase of the construction I served a LOT of rope in multiple lengths. The @Chuck Serv-O-Matic makes what I thought would be complicated really not any more difficult than loading it up and turning the crank, and turning the crank some more and then some more turning of the crank. If you’re not sure about serving rope, I highly recommend you get this machine and serve away. It’s easy and, so far, none of my served ropes have sprung into an uncoiled mess, he said hopefully. I also prefer the now historic Syren Dark Brown rope instead of black for standing rigging, I determined Guterman 100% polyester #593 (Seal Brown I think) is a good match and is what I loaded on the server. Also, I discovered a sewing machine needle (vs. regular sewing needle) comes in handy for starting the thread through the rope with the threading done on the pointy instead of at the back of the needle. Shrouds Right up front let me say there are many other ways to set shrouds, many of them likely better than mine. My method is an amalgamation of what I’ve learned from the many great builders on this site, my own experience in having done a few on nine prior models, and limited patience. I doubt my method is the best choice for many, I’ll share it here nonetheless. With the able Quad Hands on my bench I decided to install the shrouds after the mast was stepped. I followed the common practice of alternating sides by pair: fore starboard, fore port, stern starboard, stern port. The forward shroud on both sides is served its entire length, the other shrouds are served to just below the cheeks. Many cranks of the serving machine were enjoyed. I used the same seizing at the masthead and the deadeyes. I chose .012 dark brown rope instead of thread because I wanted the shrouds to show a bit of heft. After 10 turns and tightening my "fishing lure" I crossed the two running ends to the back side of the seizing and tied them in a square knot then sealed the knot with a drop of CA. I really enjoy building models of sailing ships, I do not however enjoy installing deadeyes (or worse the still to come ratlines). As I mentioned many modelers have many methods and I wish you all well in whatever manner you choose. I start with a jig that includes a sacrificial deadeye glued on and two brass pins at the required distance below inserted into the deadeyes already on the hull. A piece of tan thread is tied by clove hitch onto the shroud and used to mark the bottom center of the loop made by the jig (after a lot of fumbling about). That loop is transferred to the closely located Quad Hands and the shroud dead eye (temporarily upside down in the photo) turned in by crossing from back across the front and then seized with a clove hitch. With the running length temporarily seized with another piece of tan rope with another clove hitch the shroud is tested with another jig, this one with brass pins on both ends at the required distance. Once the length is confirmed and set, the clove hitch is glued at the dead eye and three seizings, as described above except four turns instead of ten, are added, the running length is trimmed at the top of the third seizing. The distance between seizings is established by the plans. The lanyard is added and temporarily tied by half hitches just above the first seizing. That’s one done, seven more to go. I’d like to say it's as smooth as I described it, but for me it isn’t. Getting all eight the right length is a lot of fumbling and fiddling about and very time consuming. How did I ever do 74 of these on the 1:64 Pegasus... Eventually though it gets done and I can finally move on. I’ll do a little twisting about to clean them up more when I permanently tie off the lanyards. Burton Pendants The two Burton Pendants were actually the first item installed over the mast head, before the shroud lines. The standing portion is fully served and runs about a fourth of the distance down to the deck. The tackle is hooked to the cap rail and belayed to the pin rack. The challenge was having the each pendant equal distance from the masthead and deck. No cranes on these ships, the pendants did all the heavy lifting. Lower Backstays On to more fun rigging beginning with constructing two fiddle blocks from Syren. They consist of three layers, I squared them up using their frames and glued the three together, I trimmed away the frames and did some sanding, removing the char and shaping them a bit by rounding the edges. The fiddle blocks look pretty cool rigged up, Yet another clove hitch wrapped the center, glued and the ends trimmed away. I sorta wish there were more than just the two as part of the rigging. After installing some long pendants, served around the mast head equal to the shrouds at just below the cheeks ending in a block, tackle was added using the fiddle block, two hooks and another block. These are terminated using two of the metal straps added so long ago on the side of the hull and belayed to a cleat next to the ladder. The plans show the two hooks facing each other, I’m not sure why so I just followed the plans. The third strap is for the upper back stays I’ll add later. After the chore of the shrouds the backstays were a bit of fun, like the Burton Pendants the main challenge getting both port and starboard stays to match in length with placement of the block and fiddle block. The ship now has a lot of blocks and strings running about. Of course the mess on the deck and the alignment and tension of the lines will be adjusted later. How long ago did I plank that deck… Lower Yard Sling This was a fun little project in and of itself, routed around the masthead and terminating in a thimble with a hook, it will hold up the lower yard. I described this brass tube cutting tool in a previous post, Out it came again to cut some tube for the sling thimble. I cut a couple of different sizes as I wasn’t exactly sure which I’d use (I settled on 1.75mm). I learned to hold the brass down using the knurled knob with one finger and covering the cutting area with another so the cut piece doesn’t fly off somewhere. With the right tension adjustment in the spring loaded punch I created the thimbles and then blackened them. I was having too much fun and so made a bunch, I’ll need them someday. The sling rope is served its entire length with the thimble seized at the center. I made a hook with a larger eye to fit into the thimble. Here I had to make a decision. The monograph has the the sling meeting in the back center of the mast head, but notes many ships instead had them meeting on the port side. I opted for port, the main reason being it’s getting pretty tight back there with all the served lines needing to be below the throat halyard eyebolt, there is more room to work on the side of the shroud gang. I seized an eye on one end off the ship after measuring the distance with a prototype sling seen here (not served and with a temporary thimble). The plan is to have the hook just below the parrels of the gaff. The first eye I could then do with the sling off the ship. Then the fun begins, determing the location of the second interlocking eye. I did this by looping the loose end through the completed eye and settling the center of the hook on the mast. A clip removed from the quad hands provided a little weight to hold the hook at the bottom center while I adjusted the length. Yet another piece of tan rope tied in a clove hitch held it all in place until I had the right length. Notice my served line is extra long, more than needed but a few more cranks on the serving machine was better than coming up short (though it didn't need to be quite this long). Then it’s working in the tops to seize the second eye interlocked in the first eye so that the completed the hook hangs at the right length and lays nicely on top of the port shroud gang. Though it took some fine work to do this without breaking anything, it proved the be rewarding when, as a result of careful planning, it came out right the first time (not everything I do does). Working on the ship up high in the tops is made possible by the Quad Hands, the old third hand I had is a joke compared to this tool. I like the middle size plate augmented with a third 16” hand (for a total of five) bought separately. Here it is assisted by a box - one I got in a bit of trouble for when my wife walked by and asked what I was doing with her nice linen covered box from her sewing room. Fortunately both the box and I came out unscathed. The completed sling came out just right for me, the lower yard will be happy to fine it supportive of its position on the ship, or so it would say if yards and slings could talk. The mast head is getting crowded with just the main stay to add. I think here is where serving all that rope pays off, perhaps especially at 1:48. The shroud gang though packed in tight looks pretty cool to me. I’m also pleased with my decision to connect the sling on the port side, those eyes are better accented here than behind the mast in my opinion. Now to the main stay and then see how long I procrastinate before starting the ratlines before finishing out the mast rigging. Thanks for stopping by, your comments and likes are always appreciated.

Yes it does but there appears to be a gap between the back side of it and the mast. Again, just a suggestion. I also just did these recently so it’s familiar to me.

May I offer trying to get the bottom two bolts flush with the mast. These are pretty visible once rigged, the hook that will go in those bolts will be more prominent. just a suggestion.

I don’t think I would. The lap joints look so nice, the tree nails would be a distraction. Perhaps a cosmetic model choice, but a good one I think.

I’ve been here since the 80’s. We’ll just have to disagree, I don’t want to hijack this thread to discuss Texas weather.

Thanks for the info BE! I’ll have to search some out.