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glbarlow

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Everything posted by glbarlow

  1. glbarlow
    That’s some nice looking planking.
  2. glbarlow
    Well done! Excellent photography as well. I now have my go to log when I build my barge.
  3. glbarlow
    I made my scrapper from a piece of brass about 1-1.5mm thick for the trim on Cheerful. Didn’t sharpen the edges, did lots of light passes. I was a bit surprised how well it worked.
  4. glbarlow
    I’ve learned so much having built Cheerful since this log was done. Still some good information I think.
  5. glbarlow
    The gun port pattern should near equal the first planking. Hold up a strip of that lime wood below it, it should be close. There is some room to sand them to match before the second planking, which covers both the pattern and the first planking. I hope you’re taking advantage of looking at several other build logs, there are many here on the forum.
  6. glbarlow
    I use black masking tape, not so thick and hard to shape card. Examples are on my Cheerful log
  7. glbarlow
    It’s looking great, looking forward to following your progress.
  8. glbarlow
    Jeff! How have you been, where did you go…? 😁
  9. glbarlow
    Really not a decision you have to re-bend them. Nothing will work otherwise. The Model IS representative of a British cutter, maybe not a named one, but it’s still a cutter. There’s not that much flexibility other than a name on the stern.
  10. glbarlow
    Come on back to your build. Let’s see how it’s going. 😀
  11. glbarlow
    Thanks for the reference. I’ll follow along and offer what help I can. The log was originally done on another site, I copied it and posted here on MSW so the posts appear a bit long since I combined them. There are some nuances to LN, I recommend reading through a few logs to take advantage of what others learned. My biggest recommendation for any modeler is to learn Chucks plank bending technique. It’s a game changer and worth the time. The LN is a nice model to learn it on. Have fun and don’t be reluctant to ask for help. Every experience level is represented in this forum. I’ve not met one that wasn’t willin to help.
  12. glbarlow
    This email works: thewoodmansshed@gmail.com I’ve used it to order just this past week.
  13. glbarlow
    Figurines and ornate carving added to your already impressive list of skills. Adapting wildly different figures to convert to your vision is very impressive. This model will end up being quite the conversation starter when you’re finished. Amazing work BE!
  14. glbarlow
    Looks like a very nice fit. Not to early to decide if you’re painting them black or leaving them natural. Both have been done. Getting the curve by the Wales is tricky, good job!
  15. glbarlow
    So 39 for everyone else😊
  16. glbarlow
    I posted this as a reply on Derek’s log about technique I discovered making rope coils (described in post #687 and shown above). I thought it might be helpful as additional information here. I made and rejected a lot, but in the end I think they look worthy of Cheerful. So here it is: A couple of nuances I did with my modified approach that might help: a. the loop is top side over bottom to start it, then continue that loop for a full 360 degree turn before putting over the pin on the coil jig, it’s easy to stop with the first loop but it doesn’t look as good. b. Pulling the top rope for tension (referring to post #687) is a bit of the art, not too tight, not too loose, before painting the clear acrylic. c. The smush after it’s dried is, for me anyway, what makes them more realistic. I even paint the inside of bottom the bottom loops of the finished coil with a little water so it’s not so stiff. d. The clear acrylic helps, it dries more natural than watered down glue), but it isn’t a true adhesive so the CA on the back side of the loop is essential in holding it all together. e. My jig has one size for cleats another for pin rails. The difference is the size of the loop and the length of the coil. It’s specific to 1:48 Cheerful, I’ll have to make a new one for a 1:64 model.
  17. glbarlow
    Thanks for the reference 😁. A couple of nuances I did with my modified approach that might help: a. the loop is top side over bottom to start it, then continue that loop for a full 360 degree turn before putting over the pin on the coil jig, it’s easy to stop with the first loop but it doesn’t look as good. b. Pulling the top rope for tension (referring to my post #687) is a bit of the art, not too tight, not too loose, before painting the clear acrylic. c. The smush after it’s dried is, for me anyway, what makes them more realistic. I even paint the inside of bottom the bottom loops of the finished coil with a little water so it’s not so stiff. d. The clear acrylic helps, it dries more natural, but it isn’t an adhesive so the CA on the back side of the loop is essential in holding it all together. e. My jig has one size for cleats another for pin rails. The difference is the size of the loop and the length of the coil. It’s specific to 1:48 Cheerful, I’ll have to make a new one for a 1:64 model. I hope this helps. I made so many and rejected so many to get ones I liked. I’d make more probably if I hadn’t run out of rope. At some point my mini-me standing on the deck said ‘enough, move on. The detail in your rigging looks great by the way. Such detail and precision.
  18. glbarlow
    I’m glad you’re enjoying the log and appreciate your comment. I’m not sure what I’m going to do when I finish it. It’s been a great year (when not much else was great about the year) building it.
  19. glbarlow
    Thank you. I’m watching yours as well, I know it will turn out great.
  20. glbarlow
    Thanks BE, I appreciate your saying so. I have enjoyed the rigging, it’s a different beast than the building as you well know.
  21. glbarlow
    Thanks. I just need more rope to learn from. The bosun keeps tossing my failures into the bin. 😁😟
  22. glbarlow
    Good point🤣 The coils took a lot of experimentation, and a lot of rope, to get better. I feel like I could still replace several of them, but I’m out of rope.
  23. glbarlow
    I like the pattern on the inside of the stern, especially with the frames showing and after it was painted, I did it that way on purpose. I also brush painted it with thin coats so that I can tell it’s planks and not a solid sheet. But to each his own, it needs to be the way you like it. i agree with Chuck, of course, about beveling planks and evening up the back before you get to the fashion pieces. You’re making nice progress, it’s a relief to be past thinning those outside stern frames.
  24. glbarlow
    I noticed one photo had mis run lines, here’s how they are now
  25. glbarlow
    There is what you describe, which doesn’t sound like much fun, and forming and framing gun-ports from wood I milled myself, very time consuming and very enjoyable. With kits I do t need much beyond a good set of plans. But that’s why Chris makes such great kits, both for the less experienced and still more than interesting enough for the more experienced. Only James can build these things quickly and per his post even he can’t knock out Sphinx in a few weeks. The most unimportant thing to me is how quick I can build a model, why would you want to. Cheerful has taken me over a year, I’m going to miss it when I’m done in a week or two from now.

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