Charter33

Hi,
Now that the dust has settled on the start of a new school year I've managed devote a bit of time again to this project and have made some more progress ......
 
Shaping the fore and aft deadwoods was holding me up a bit as I tried to make sense of the various sectional profile drawings. My inexperience was evident as I tried to juggle the various profiles and much time was spent working through the other build logs in this section. They certainly helped, and then I came across and followed the link that Dan Vad mentioned in a post referring to his HMS Vulture build. This proved to be a great help and I can see myself visiting this regularly as my build continues - thank's Dan!
 
In the end you just have to dive in and have a go...
 

 
Using a combination of thin brass sheet and acrylic templates pinned to the aft deadwood the sides were reduced to the required shape.
 

 
My first attempt at tapering the lower end of the inner post was not as successful as I had hoped so a second had to be made.
 
The rebates were then cut in the stern post with a scalpel and lower area worked to match the ajoining components prior to being glued together.
 
A carving knife proved an effective way to cut the curving rebate in the stem and subsequent shaping of the fore deadwood. I expect there will be a bit more work ahead on these later.
 

 

 
At last we have a keel!
 

 

 

 
... and work begins on the frames ......
 

 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Ok, I guess I am going to go backwards. These are pictures of the ship taken in January 2018, before we started working on the standing rigging together. 

And, finally, I moved the crew to the boat
 

First step on our way to complete the running rigging. The sprit boom is up 😊. Don't ask how many times I attached it to the bowsprit,  though. Today I was so frustrated that I tore it down one more time, adjusted the martingales and now I am happy with the result. Dad is busy winding  the white ropes for the running rigging. 

After installing standing rigging, I held out a running rigging. Now all the gear has been carried out. It remains to align the guys with the mast and proceed to the final fixation and trimming of the ends.
 

Finally, it's time to install the mast and rigging. 
 

Then I proceeded to form a light ripple on the surface of the water.
 

Then I hung the boat with the threads and filled the silicone into bottle.
The fill of the "sea" was made in the evening. In the morning, the silicone was already half-set, but it was found that, due to the leakage of the seam between the halves of the boat, some of the silicone seeped into the boat. I had to spend a couple of hours "scooping up" the "water" from the boat. The last photo was made during this process.
 








 
 

Then I took everything to pieces again.
 







 

I read on this forum that the Mermaid class frigates underwater hull were painted with white stuff and later (for HMH Triton in 1779) were coppered. Some of the cross section builders show both versions, one side white and one side coppered. I decide to follow their example. Starboard side will be white and port side  coppered. Here you see starboard side:

In our local garden center I found copper strips to protect vegetables in the kitchen garden against snails. It consists of a copper foil strip which is self adhesive. Probably  effective against snails, but certainly effective for ship modeling.

To obtain a nail pattern on my copper strips, I draw the pattern on a piece of wood and drill the nail holes (ø 1.5 mm).

In each hole I put a 1.5 mm nail of which only the head sticks out of the wood surface. As I will glue the copper sheets from under to above and from aft to forward, I wait to place the nails of the upper- and left edge. They will be each time covered by the previous layer. When gluing the upper layer, the upper edge will be nailed as well.

To imitate the nail heads on the copper plate, I lay the copper strip on the nail bed and rub with my finger over the copper sheet until the nail heads are embossed in the copper foil. Thereafter I cut the copper to the right dimensions, in this case 2x6 cm).


As the copper foil is self adhesive, the fixing on the hull goes easily.

Coppering finished!

 

So here goes with a little more progress.
 
The bearing houses stands off the sliding plate by 2 inches. A 2"x2"x1" piece of aluminium was cut from bar and the ends machined square. 

The bearing housing is drilled and tapped (M8) to take the bolts that will secure it and the stand off to the sliding plate.

In the previous photo the bearing housing is held against the mill table by the black clamp while the side clamping is achieved through the bar with 5 horizontal cap bolts. I made this some time back and find it very useful.
 
A recess is cut in the bearing housing to take the stand off. The set up means that the recess is parallel with the axis of the housing. The fit of the stand off into the housing has to be good to make sure that the housing axis is parallel with the stand off. 
The quality of the fit is illustrated in the next photo where the housing is suspended from the stand off by friction alone.
 
A better view of the joint can be seen in the next photo.

I needed bearing retaining plates for either end of the bearing housing, these were cut from 0.1" aluminium plate. 

The next step was to create the cut out and holes for attaching the stand off to the sliding plate.

This was virtually a repeat of the operations to connect the stand off to the bearing housing.

And once again I did the friction suspension test to demonstrate the fit.

The next photo shows all 3 parts assembled and held together by friction.

Thats it for the present. Tomorrow I am going to have a go at machining up the spindle and mounting it in the bearing housing.

Hi,
Last October a thread started by Derek (Worldway) in this section of the forum gave me the final nudge to get started on making my own ropewalk. 
I have previously built a serving machine and decided to try and use similar construction techniques such as using acrylic for the main structure and modified Lego gears for the mechanism.
Here are some pictures of this earlier project:
 

 

 

 


 
The Ropewalk:
 
Clear acrylic components were built up to make wheels and pulleys. Small holes around the rims aid alignment using the brass pins recovered from the first planking on my HMS Victory - I knew there would be a reason to keep them!

 
The Lego gears had their centers machined out and replaced by acrylic hubs. These have a square hole in the center through which 5/32" square brass tube is pushed. This tube, after a little filing, slides firmly into 6mm O/D brass tube axles which in turn fit into the ball races press fitted into the various support plates.
 

 
The track is in sections each about a meter long, which slot together.
I decided to try and use one motor to drive the end that twists the individual strands and a second one to twist these strands together.

 

 
The control box provides separate on/off switches, variable speed control and finally a switch to reverse the direction of rotation.
 

The motors were initially powered by batteries but I have now replaced these with a 6 volt power supply.
 
The 'Top' which guides the strands is mounted on an acrylic truck. This is fitted with the three stand top in the photo but there is also a four stand top.
 

 

 
These four strand gear plates are easily fitted in place of the three strand gear drive.
 

 
In use the strand twisting end is fixed to the track but the other end that twists these together to produce the final rope is free to slide along the track as the twisting process reduces the length of the rope. I'm still getting to grips with the best way to operate this device and need to experiment more with types of yarn, motor speeds etc. Early attempts are encouraging however..........
 

 
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi,
Last October a thread started by Derek (Worldway) in this section of the forum gave me the final nudge to get started on making my own ropewalk. 
I have previously built a serving machine and decided to try and use similar construction techniques such as using acrylic for the main structure and modified Lego gears for the mechanism.
Here are some pictures of this earlier project:
 

 

 

 


 
The Ropewalk:
 
Clear acrylic components were built up to make wheels and pulleys. Small holes around the rims aid alignment using the brass pins recovered from the first planking on my HMS Victory - I knew there would be a reason to keep them!

 
The Lego gears had their centers machined out and replaced by acrylic hubs. These have a square hole in the center through which 5/32" square brass tube is pushed. This tube, after a little filing, slides firmly into 6mm O/D brass tube axles which in turn fit into the ball races press fitted into the various support plates.
 

 
The track is in sections each about a meter long, which slot together.
I decided to try and use one motor to drive the end that twists the individual strands and a second one to twist these strands together.

 

 
The control box provides separate on/off switches, variable speed control and finally a switch to reverse the direction of rotation.
 

The motors were initially powered by batteries but I have now replaced these with a 6 volt power supply.
 
The 'Top' which guides the strands is mounted on an acrylic truck. This is fitted with the three stand top in the photo but there is also a four stand top.
 

 

 
These four strand gear plates are easily fitted in place of the three strand gear drive.
 

 
In use the strand twisting end is fixed to the track but the other end that twists these together to produce the final rope is free to slide along the track as the twisting process reduces the length of the rope. I'm still getting to grips with the best way to operate this device and need to experiment more with types of yarn, motor speeds etc. Early attempts are encouraging however..........
 

 
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi,
Last October a thread started by Derek (Worldway) in this section of the forum gave me the final nudge to get started on making my own ropewalk. 
I have previously built a serving machine and decided to try and use similar construction techniques such as using acrylic for the main structure and modified Lego gears for the mechanism.
Here are some pictures of this earlier project:
 

 

 

 


 
The Ropewalk:
 
Clear acrylic components were built up to make wheels and pulleys. Small holes around the rims aid alignment using the brass pins recovered from the first planking on my HMS Victory - I knew there would be a reason to keep them!

 
The Lego gears had their centers machined out and replaced by acrylic hubs. These have a square hole in the center through which 5/32" square brass tube is pushed. This tube, after a little filing, slides firmly into 6mm O/D brass tube axles which in turn fit into the ball races press fitted into the various support plates.
 

 
The track is in sections each about a meter long, which slot together.
I decided to try and use one motor to drive the end that twists the individual strands and a second one to twist these strands together.

 

 
The control box provides separate on/off switches, variable speed control and finally a switch to reverse the direction of rotation.
 

The motors were initially powered by batteries but I have now replaced these with a 6 volt power supply.
 
The 'Top' which guides the strands is mounted on an acrylic truck. This is fitted with the three stand top in the photo but there is also a four stand top.
 

 

 
These four strand gear plates are easily fitted in place of the three strand gear drive.
 

 
In use the strand twisting end is fixed to the track but the other end that twists these together to produce the final rope is free to slide along the track as the twisting process reduces the length of the rope. I'm still getting to grips with the best way to operate this device and need to experiment more with types of yarn, motor speeds etc. Early attempts are encouraging however..........
 

 
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi,
Last October a thread started by Derek (Worldway) in this section of the forum gave me the final nudge to get started on making my own ropewalk. 
I have previously built a serving machine and decided to try and use similar construction techniques such as using acrylic for the main structure and modified Lego gears for the mechanism.
Here are some pictures of this earlier project:
 

 

 

 


 
The Ropewalk:
 
Clear acrylic components were built up to make wheels and pulleys. Small holes around the rims aid alignment using the brass pins recovered from the first planking on my HMS Victory - I knew there would be a reason to keep them!

 
The Lego gears had their centers machined out and replaced by acrylic hubs. These have a square hole in the center through which 5/32" square brass tube is pushed. This tube, after a little filing, slides firmly into 6mm O/D brass tube axles which in turn fit into the ball races press fitted into the various support plates.
 

 
The track is in sections each about a meter long, which slot together.
I decided to try and use one motor to drive the end that twists the individual strands and a second one to twist these strands together.

 

 
The control box provides separate on/off switches, variable speed control and finally a switch to reverse the direction of rotation.
 

The motors were initially powered by batteries but I have now replaced these with a 6 volt power supply.
 
The 'Top' which guides the strands is mounted on an acrylic truck. This is fitted with the three stand top in the photo but there is also a four stand top.
 

 

 
These four strand gear plates are easily fitted in place of the three strand gear drive.
 

 
In use the strand twisting end is fixed to the track but the other end that twists these together to produce the final rope is free to slide along the track as the twisting process reduces the length of the rope. I'm still getting to grips with the best way to operate this device and need to experiment more with types of yarn, motor speeds etc. Early attempts are encouraging however..........
 

 
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi,
Last October a thread started by Derek (Worldway) in this section of the forum gave me the final nudge to get started on making my own ropewalk. 
I have previously built a serving machine and decided to try and use similar construction techniques such as using acrylic for the main structure and modified Lego gears for the mechanism.
Here are some pictures of this earlier project:
 

 

 

 


 
The Ropewalk:
 
Clear acrylic components were built up to make wheels and pulleys. Small holes around the rims aid alignment using the brass pins recovered from the first planking on my HMS Victory - I knew there would be a reason to keep them!

 
The Lego gears had their centers machined out and replaced by acrylic hubs. These have a square hole in the center through which 5/32" square brass tube is pushed. This tube, after a little filing, slides firmly into 6mm O/D brass tube axles which in turn fit into the ball races press fitted into the various support plates.
 

 
The track is in sections each about a meter long, which slot together.
I decided to try and use one motor to drive the end that twists the individual strands and a second one to twist these strands together.

 

 
The control box provides separate on/off switches, variable speed control and finally a switch to reverse the direction of rotation.
 

The motors were initially powered by batteries but I have now replaced these with a 6 volt power supply.
 
The 'Top' which guides the strands is mounted on an acrylic truck. This is fitted with the three stand top in the photo but there is also a four stand top.
 

 

 
These four strand gear plates are easily fitted in place of the three strand gear drive.
 

 
In use the strand twisting end is fixed to the track but the other end that twists these together to produce the final rope is free to slide along the track as the twisting process reduces the length of the rope. I'm still getting to grips with the best way to operate this device and need to experiment more with types of yarn, motor speeds etc. Early attempts are encouraging however..........
 

 
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi,
Last October a thread started by Derek (Worldway) in this section of the forum gave me the final nudge to get started on making my own ropewalk. 
I have previously built a serving machine and decided to try and use similar construction techniques such as using acrylic for the main structure and modified Lego gears for the mechanism.
Here are some pictures of this earlier project:
 

 

 

 


 
The Ropewalk:
 
Clear acrylic components were built up to make wheels and pulleys. Small holes around the rims aid alignment using the brass pins recovered from the first planking on my HMS Victory - I knew there would be a reason to keep them!

 
The Lego gears had their centers machined out and replaced by acrylic hubs. These have a square hole in the center through which 5/32" square brass tube is pushed. This tube, after a little filing, slides firmly into 6mm O/D brass tube axles which in turn fit into the ball races press fitted into the various support plates.
 

 
The track is in sections each about a meter long, which slot together.
I decided to try and use one motor to drive the end that twists the individual strands and a second one to twist these strands together.

 

 
The control box provides separate on/off switches, variable speed control and finally a switch to reverse the direction of rotation.
 

The motors were initially powered by batteries but I have now replaced these with a 6 volt power supply.
 
The 'Top' which guides the strands is mounted on an acrylic truck. This is fitted with the three stand top in the photo but there is also a four stand top.
 

 

 
These four strand gear plates are easily fitted in place of the three strand gear drive.
 

 
In use the strand twisting end is fixed to the track but the other end that twists these together to produce the final rope is free to slide along the track as the twisting process reduces the length of the rope. I'm still getting to grips with the best way to operate this device and need to experiment more with types of yarn, motor speeds etc. Early attempts are encouraging however..........
 

 
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi,
Last October a thread started by Derek (Worldway) in this section of the forum gave me the final nudge to get started on making my own ropewalk. 
I have previously built a serving machine and decided to try and use similar construction techniques such as using acrylic for the main structure and modified Lego gears for the mechanism.
Here are some pictures of this earlier project:
 

 

 

 


 
The Ropewalk:
 
Clear acrylic components were built up to make wheels and pulleys. Small holes around the rims aid alignment using the brass pins recovered from the first planking on my HMS Victory - I knew there would be a reason to keep them!

 
The Lego gears had their centers machined out and replaced by acrylic hubs. These have a square hole in the center through which 5/32" square brass tube is pushed. This tube, after a little filing, slides firmly into 6mm O/D brass tube axles which in turn fit into the ball races press fitted into the various support plates.
 

 
The track is in sections each about a meter long, which slot together.
I decided to try and use one motor to drive the end that twists the individual strands and a second one to twist these strands together.

 

 
The control box provides separate on/off switches, variable speed control and finally a switch to reverse the direction of rotation.
 

The motors were initially powered by batteries but I have now replaced these with a 6 volt power supply.
 
The 'Top' which guides the strands is mounted on an acrylic truck. This is fitted with the three stand top in the photo but there is also a four stand top.
 

 

 
These four strand gear plates are easily fitted in place of the three strand gear drive.
 

 
In use the strand twisting end is fixed to the track but the other end that twists these together to produce the final rope is free to slide along the track as the twisting process reduces the length of the rope. I'm still getting to grips with the best way to operate this device and need to experiment more with types of yarn, motor speeds etc. Early attempts are encouraging however..........
 

 
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi,
Last October a thread started by Derek (Worldway) in this section of the forum gave me the final nudge to get started on making my own ropewalk. 
I have previously built a serving machine and decided to try and use similar construction techniques such as using acrylic for the main structure and modified Lego gears for the mechanism.
Here are some pictures of this earlier project:
 

 

 

 


 
The Ropewalk:
 
Clear acrylic components were built up to make wheels and pulleys. Small holes around the rims aid alignment using the brass pins recovered from the first planking on my HMS Victory - I knew there would be a reason to keep them!

 
The Lego gears had their centers machined out and replaced by acrylic hubs. These have a square hole in the center through which 5/32" square brass tube is pushed. This tube, after a little filing, slides firmly into 6mm O/D brass tube axles which in turn fit into the ball races press fitted into the various support plates.
 

 
The track is in sections each about a meter long, which slot together.
I decided to try and use one motor to drive the end that twists the individual strands and a second one to twist these strands together.

 

 
The control box provides separate on/off switches, variable speed control and finally a switch to reverse the direction of rotation.
 

The motors were initially powered by batteries but I have now replaced these with a 6 volt power supply.
 
The 'Top' which guides the strands is mounted on an acrylic truck. This is fitted with the three stand top in the photo but there is also a four stand top.
 

 

 
These four strand gear plates are easily fitted in place of the three strand gear drive.
 

 
In use the strand twisting end is fixed to the track but the other end that twists these together to produce the final rope is free to slide along the track as the twisting process reduces the length of the rope. I'm still getting to grips with the best way to operate this device and need to experiment more with types of yarn, motor speeds etc. Early attempts are encouraging however..........
 

 
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi,
Last October a thread started by Derek (Worldway) in this section of the forum gave me the final nudge to get started on making my own ropewalk. 
I have previously built a serving machine and decided to try and use similar construction techniques such as using acrylic for the main structure and modified Lego gears for the mechanism.
Here are some pictures of this earlier project:
 

 

 

 


 
The Ropewalk:
 
Clear acrylic components were built up to make wheels and pulleys. Small holes around the rims aid alignment using the brass pins recovered from the first planking on my HMS Victory - I knew there would be a reason to keep them!

 
The Lego gears had their centers machined out and replaced by acrylic hubs. These have a square hole in the center through which 5/32" square brass tube is pushed. This tube, after a little filing, slides firmly into 6mm O/D brass tube axles which in turn fit into the ball races press fitted into the various support plates.
 

 
The track is in sections each about a meter long, which slot together.
I decided to try and use one motor to drive the end that twists the individual strands and a second one to twist these strands together.

 

 
The control box provides separate on/off switches, variable speed control and finally a switch to reverse the direction of rotation.
 

The motors were initially powered by batteries but I have now replaced these with a 6 volt power supply.
 
The 'Top' which guides the strands is mounted on an acrylic truck. This is fitted with the three stand top in the photo but there is also a four stand top.
 

 

 
These four strand gear plates are easily fitted in place of the three strand gear drive.
 

 
In use the strand twisting end is fixed to the track but the other end that twists these together to produce the final rope is free to slide along the track as the twisting process reduces the length of the rope. I'm still getting to grips with the best way to operate this device and need to experiment more with types of yarn, motor speeds etc. Early attempts are encouraging however..........
 

 
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi,
Last October a thread started by Derek (Worldway) in this section of the forum gave me the final nudge to get started on making my own ropewalk. 
I have previously built a serving machine and decided to try and use similar construction techniques such as using acrylic for the main structure and modified Lego gears for the mechanism.
Here are some pictures of this earlier project:
 

 

 

 


 
The Ropewalk:
 
Clear acrylic components were built up to make wheels and pulleys. Small holes around the rims aid alignment using the brass pins recovered from the first planking on my HMS Victory - I knew there would be a reason to keep them!

 
The Lego gears had their centers machined out and replaced by acrylic hubs. These have a square hole in the center through which 5/32" square brass tube is pushed. This tube, after a little filing, slides firmly into 6mm O/D brass tube axles which in turn fit into the ball races press fitted into the various support plates.
 

 
The track is in sections each about a meter long, which slot together.
I decided to try and use one motor to drive the end that twists the individual strands and a second one to twist these strands together.

 

 
The control box provides separate on/off switches, variable speed control and finally a switch to reverse the direction of rotation.
 

The motors were initially powered by batteries but I have now replaced these with a 6 volt power supply.
 
The 'Top' which guides the strands is mounted on an acrylic truck. This is fitted with the three stand top in the photo but there is also a four stand top.
 

 

 
These four strand gear plates are easily fitted in place of the three strand gear drive.
 

 
In use the strand twisting end is fixed to the track but the other end that twists these together to produce the final rope is free to slide along the track as the twisting process reduces the length of the rope. I'm still getting to grips with the best way to operate this device and need to experiment more with types of yarn, motor speeds etc. Early attempts are encouraging however..........
 

 
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Yesterday I painted pirate figures. This was practically my first experience of painting figures. Figures from kit by Alexminiatures. At one of the figures I changed the position of the hands. Then I covered them with a primer from the ballon. Then I painted them with brushes.
 

Hello friends.
Production of the cannons by the tin process.
Karl
 
P a r t   1 5

Hi Mike,
I found the same thing when I started my build. As I was swiftly advised, you should find the missing drawings either in the 'cross section' download or fully drawn and explained in the NRG Articles database section  - on this site's home page, click on 'more' (top right).
 
Good luck with your build, and I look forward to following your progress.
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Thanks for that Guy, but still a long way to go! 
I'm hoping to get back to work next month and when time permits I'll be tackling  those hawse timbers. I have, however, made progress with cutting out the components for the many frames since my last post.
I've devoted a bit of time designing and fabricating parts for a rope walk which is close to completion, as much for the mental stimulation as any other reason, while I recover strength and fitness. I'll post details on an appropriate topic thread once I've finished and trialed it, assuming it works! 
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.