Elia
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Everything posted by Elia
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Russ, The rail caps and rub rails look very sharp. Really great looking boat. Very nicely done. Cheers, Elia- 420 replies
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Frank, Wow - That is such a crisp, beautiful model. I find it very enjoyable (and educational) watching your build progress. I appreciate the spar staining issue you had; I'm still stewing over how to proceed with mine (though I'm certain I'll stick with the spars I've got). Cheers, Elia
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Russ, That hull is superb. I like that plumb stem and how that planks run aft from it. Beautiful planking. Elia
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Frank, I've been following along, hitting the the 'like' button alot.. and just have to pipe up to say your hull framing, planking, and fairing are superb. Very very sharp work. I find Kathryn's hull framing and planking a fascinating alternative to what I've seen on other Skipjacks. Elia
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Patrick, I've just now found your log. Fantastic work! Fantastic. Boggles the mind the work you do at this scale. Elia
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Russ, I'm joining the audience a little late! You've got an attractive and unique topic here, and you've got a very well planned and executed build under way. The hull (bulkhead) framing looked true and aligned; the stanchions (both plan and execution) look smart, and the hull planking is coming along very well. I'll be sure to keep up. Elia PS I'm also glad to see your injury has apparently passed and you're back in the model shop!
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Some of today's effort: assembling some of the Syren Ship Model Company's internally iron stropped blocks. In the first picture you'll find, on the left, how the mini-kits arrive. In the center/top are blocks glued together using medium CA and toothpicks (per the online instructions). At the right are the sheave pin 'wire' and the incredibly fine strip stock used for the strops in the remaining bags. In the center you'll see blocks snipped off the frames and also blocks which have had the sprue and laser burn sanded off. I found using a no. 11 blade wasn't the best way to separate the blocks from the frame - it is easy for the sprue to snap off at part and remove a small chunk of the block. The shears shown worked quite well at separating the block without the damage to the block. The second picture is a close up of the blocks. I tried inserting the fine strip stock into the laser cut slots - they worked perfectly on the couple I tried. I will have to wait a short while before I can tumble them to smooth the edges. Elia
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Russ, Pete, Thank you. It has been very enjoyable working on this again. If you recall from an earlier time I was unhappy with the stain color of the spars and masts. Today I took 200 and 400 grit sandpaper to the spars and masts and was able to remove much of the offending hew. Pete - I'll post progress pictures of the sails once I have time to read through the mini-practicum and perform some trials. I really liked working with silkspan on my Oneida's furled sails but clearly didn't have an entirely proper method for them, and some problems emerged. Elia
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While I putter along with things here is an in-process picture of the masts and spars and their associated ironwork. I still have some to do on the topmasts. And there are a few fittings which I'll fret saw and file from thicker brass sheet. I'll solder the soft or load bearing joints shortly. Elia
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So .... here are some initial 'casting my dories' images (taken with my cell phone). The first two are my dory, puttied, sanded, and primed. The next is of my mold box constructed of Lego blocks. Following that is my mold box with clay, the blank, and vented tubes placed. I purchased a starter kit from MicroMark - showing the mold two part materials. Then there is slowly mixing up the silicone mold batter. And lastly the mold filled. I have taken the blank out out of the mold and the first half looks pretty good - though I don't have a picture of it here... Elia
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Hi Lawrence, Thank you for inquiring about my progress. My job has taken me out-of-town a bit but I've been able to make progress through little snippets of time. I've fabricated much of the mast and spar iron work, though the soldering step(s) remain. I've proceeded with partially making the mold for casting my dories - it is a two part mold and I've made the first half. I recently purchased some of Chuck Passaro's internally iron stropped block kits and hope to begin assembling them shortly. These are amazing little block kits - perfectly appropriate for Arethusa. I hope to do them justice. I've also been reading up on how folks here at MSW have made their silkspan sails (many here producing quite convincing sails), along with having ordered the sail making supplement to TFFM from Sea Watch Books - I'm certain it will be highly informative and hopefully will guide me along in making sails for Arethusa. I'll try posting some images (from my cell phone). Cheers, Elia
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Sideliner Your Benjamin Latham looks great! Congratulations on completing it. Well done. Are you going to display it in a case? Elia
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- benjamin w latham
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Years ago I used the thin silkspan to create furled sails on my Oneida model following the furled sails article by Professor Tilley. I 'painted' the basic silkspan, stretched over a picture frame support, with a combination of diluted PVA glue, water, and acrylic paint, let it dry, and then cut the stiff sail material to size and attached the ropes. When rewetted it became surprisingly rubbery and very easily was folded and 'crumpled' into a furled sail (make sure you have the yard or spar near by lest you furl in into a shape not aligned to the spar). I had some challenges with bolt ropes staying adhered, along with clews and such trying to pull free of the sails, though once the rubbery, furled sails dried - they were quit stiff and solid. I learned later that the combination of acrylic paint and the PVA glue were somewhat incompatible (in terms of sticking to each other) and that would have been the cause of some of my challenges....though the finished sails looked reasonable to me. Elia
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Matt - Very very nice detailing. I really like that boom buffer and the ship's wheel. You mention soldering it? The rim looks super - did you turn it on a lathe? Cheers, Elia
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Dave, Those white rails look great (as does the rest of the hull). Nice work there. Elia
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Dave, Very nicely done! That is one smart paint job. Elia
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Matt, Very nice planking job. That looks great as isand should provide a very good base for your second planking. Elia
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Hi John, I think I understand your question. I would determine the length of the entire 'Smuggler_Gloucester' (all on one line or gentle arc) assuming some gap distance between each of the letters and also the larger space between the words, find the mid-point of it, and center that midpoint on the centerline of the transom or monkeyrail. If you choose to do the alternate you may find one of the words, likely Gloucester, wrapping around the rail or transom pretty far. I attempted the former on my schooner and it worked out Ok. Hi Lawrence, Thank you! I did get a few Ship modeling goodies... I haven't tried them yet as I'm at the beginning of a kitchen 'minor project' which will keep me busy for a little while. Cheers, Elia
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Russ, Very nicely done decals! Elia
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Hi Patrick, Thank you much for the wishes. It has been a fine day, some time with my new book (Ed T's Young America 1853), some time coordinating a home renovation projecy, a nice dinner and cake... Cheers, Elia
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Jersey City Frankie Thank you very much. I lean towards trying my utmost towards scale and detail (though sometimes I find I need to say enough is enough and move along or no progress is made) ... Sometimes that is a double edge sword...having to repeat my work several times. The Thalo blue was on a set of pigment recommendations.. Fortunately I've work out the colors and hews and don't have to struggle with that any longer. Cheers, Elia
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Beautiful work Bruce.
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Stephan, Very nice deck furniture and painting. I really like the look and colors. Those radiused waterways areas look great. Elia
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Russ, She looks great with the red lower hull. Elia
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