Elia
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Everything posted by Elia
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Beautiful work, Ed. Thank you for providing your approaches and techniques, along with insights along the way. Elia -
Hi Alfons, Thanks! I pretty much follow the steps I outlined in the articles and downloads section: Making a Mast (or Yard) from Square Stock http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-masts-and-yards.php I have begun using a hand plane instead of the large file when shaping the octagonal sections, and on the smaller spars using a Michi 3/8" wide flat chisel. Other than that it is just measuring with proprotional dividers or using tick strips to locate at given length locations the marking points for lines/curves which mark the octagon edges. I find using a variety of ships curves helps to get flowing curves for shaping the spars. Once the octagonal shape has been formed I usually just sand the 8 edges off using progressively finer grit sand paper. To be honest - I find shaping a straight square stock strip (of bass wood, for instance) far easier than shaping a round birch dowel. And once one has the done the process once or twice it really doesn't take that much time. And to all those who've 'liked' my posts - thank you very much! Elia
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Shipwrights, A little more progress on Arethusa - masts and spars. I've completed the basic shaping of the lower masts, upper masts, and the booms. In this photo, top to bottom, are the main mast, the fore mast, the main topmast, the fore topmast, the main boom, the fore boom, and the jumbo boom. Note the scale on the bottom of the green cutting mat in inches. The grid squares are 0.5 inches per side. The main and fore masts are just slightly greater in diameter than 3/8 inch. All were formed from square stock bass wood stock. This closer in photo shows the peculiar shaping of Gloucester schooner spars. While circular in cross section, they are decidedly not axisymmetric. The edge of the spar adjacent the sail is straight. The opposing side is tapered. The maximum diameter occurs 2/3 distance from the jaws (at the mast) to the tip. My spars shown still contain a little excess material at each end of the spar. They are shown with their jaw ends to the right in the picture. [these were taken with my camera phone - quickie photos on the dining table] Cheers, Elia
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Alfons, The staved barrel looks quite nice and an improvement over the initial try. A set of six of those will look sharp on your schooner. I too am going to put some barrels on deck...I might take a pointer or two from you.
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- BlueJacket Shipcrafters
- Gloucester fishing schooner
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Very nice Tim! Elia
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Bob, Lettie looks great with the masts stepped and the shrouds and stays going up. The bails and figure 8 links, the topmast band and shackle, the deadeyes and lanyards - really nice. Elia
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Omega, That little Ingomar looks tremendous. I marvel at the precision you've achieved at that scale. I think the dories for my schooner will be about the same size, but will resemble cardboard boxes compared to your little jewel. Beautiful. Elia
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Frank, Bob, Omega, Thank you all. Bob - it is very nice to have a liitle time to work on the boat, and share/interact with everyone here. I am many times just quietly catching a look at MSW, even though I don't have much to add. Omega - I do sometimes shoot photos with my phone and on many 'quick' shots it does a surprisingly good job. But when the opportunity presents itself - I always prefer shooting with my DSLR. Cheers, Elia
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Steve, Russ, Nils, Alfons, and Omega, Thanks! And to all the 'likes' thank you too! Russ - those are checker boards. They are temporary barriers put in place when sorting and processing fish hauls coming off of the dories. They were fairly common in the Banks fisheries. The mackerel seiners didn't use them (as far as I am aware of), while the cod and halibut fishing boats did. I don't know why more models don't show them. The link in an earlier post in this log to a Ronnberg model shows them, as do period photos of schooners in the early 1900s. As to the photography - a bright sunny day helps a lot (light light light). I shoot a Nikon D7000 with an old (but crisp and sharp) 35-70mm f2.8 lens. Cheers, Elia
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It has been some time since my last update and with a little time off of my feet I've been able to do little things here and there on Arethusa. I have begun making masts....first time in oh, about 5 years! I'm following my method I wrote about in the downloads section some years ago. Here are some photos showing the major steps. My only process change has been to use a plane to remove material instead of the rasp/file originally shown. On the hull - I touched up the anti-fouling paint and hull sides, made some little scroll art at the bow names, and applied Dullcoat over the outer hull. It is the first time I've used Dullcoat and I am happy with the results. The shininess of the acrylic paint is gone and hull details are more clearly visible. One odd and funny (to me!) aspect of the photos - you may see what looks like scupper run-off 'weathering'. It isn't. What you are seeing are reflections from clear, highly glossily packing tape I used to seal the 'work stand' box. On the deck I finished painting the checker boards. I've deviated from my 'pristine' modeling approach by applying a semi-transparent paint layer to those details and the deck battens. I think it gives appearance of worn painted boards and battens. Also worked on were attached the windlass brakes and connecting links. Luckily I hadn't glued those down yet - I found one of my soldered joints to have broken. And a final photo showing the two lower masts. The masts have been tapered and cut to length, only requiring flats and rebates where a host of spar related hardware goes. Cheers, Elia
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She looks beautiful, Tim. Cheers, Elia
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Darrel, Veerrryyyy nice, Darrel. The cabin roof looks sweet - the stained color adds much warmth and character to the model. Cheers, Elia
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Tim, She looks gorgeous. What beautiful contours. I can't wait to see it finished. Very fine and finessed work there. Cheers, Elia
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Clare, It's good to hear you're still working on Saginaw. I'm very interested in the laser work goes. Cheers, Elia
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Darrel, The hull paint looks super - very even and smooth. Well done. The emerging deck furniture also looks quite good. I look forward to seeing the populated deck take shape. Cheers, Elia
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Hey Gerald, I'm very glad to see you back at Model Ship World, and very happy that you're continuing this super fine build. Cheers, Elia
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Ed, Stunning work. It has the presence of a real clipper being built. Every day after work, when (if) I have a free moment, I look for updates. As I've noted before it is a joy and an inspiration to watch your progress. If you ever decide to publish this model design and plans you've got one solid sale right here. Cheers, Elia
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John, I'm in the chorus with the others - a beauty of a hull form and the framing looks great! Cheers, Elia
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Rick, My avatar is the Schooner Virginia, a replica 1916-17 (I think) pilot schooner. Her home port is Norfolk, Virginia. I had the pleasure of sailing on her some years ago BC (before children). She is a beauty. I now see the thin wire on the jib topmast staysail - I had wondered how the sails stood off the model. I like that approach. Really nice set of sails there. Thanks! Elia
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Rick, Age is catching up with me. I (re)found your original thread: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/6758-hello-and-question-re-grand-banks-fishing-schooner/?p=199981 And in it you described your sail process. Elia
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Rick, I really like the look of those sails. Have you described anywhere how you've made them? The curvature, the barely visible panels, the boltropes and corner reinforcements all look quite nice. When I get to making sails on my schooner I hope they look half as nice as yours. Cheers, Elia
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Russ, Those new chainplates do have better proportions and look 'right'. Very nicely done. Those are very delicate little details! Elia
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Bob, That deck and furniture look great - very clean and tidy and to scale. Excellent work. Cheers, Elia
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Beautiful work on that hull, deck, bulwarks and stanchions. Oh so nice! Elia
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Russ, I like the cabin, the entryway, and those windows. Very nice and well scaled to the hull. Those dead eyes look good and oh boy they are tiny. My Arethusa dead eyes were 0.15 inches in diameter and I thought I had difficulties. Your's are so so small at 0.06 in diameter. Very nice work. Elia
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