Pete38

Thanks for checking in. All the frames are raised and in place. The next job will be to fair the frames, hope there is enough meat on the frames for this.
Here's a few pictures of my progress to date.
 

 

 

 

 
Just had to take it out of the jig to see how it looked. Surprised how strong the frames are already...
 

 

 
Time to start sanding....sanding...sanding....

Thanks for checking in. All the frames are raised and in place. The next job will be to fair the frames, hope there is enough meat on the frames for this.
Here's a few pictures of my progress to date.
 

 

 

 

 
Just had to take it out of the jig to see how it looked. Surprised how strong the frames are already...
 

 

 
Time to start sanding....sanding...sanding....

I thought I would post these two images of a cross section model from the science museum.  I thought it might help or at least act as inspiration for those building teh cross section Triton.  What I find very pleasing is the change in the plank thickness.  Especially the outboard planking.  I have no idea which ship this is as I didnt write that down when I saved it.  It is one of hundreds of pictures I saved and now I am trying to organize. Based on what I see it may be a later vessel...but still worthy of inspiration.
 
Chuck

Hello Everyone,I have been slowly moving along. Sometimes one step foward and two steps back.I hope I have covered up all my mistakes.I tried a little weathering of the decks.
 Best Regards to All and onward over the cliff.  Larry

Just an update here.
 
I have replaced the limber boards with new ones and have drainage holes on them. I think they look okay. Also I have now finished all the toothpicks (treenails) to this point and have applied one coat so far of Antique Oil to the planks. Will have about 3 or 4 coats in total. 
 

 

 
I have also decided to redo my deck beams. They were made of Douglas Fir and now they will be made of Oak. The Knees and Carlings etc. will also be of Oak. The Douglas Fir in my opinion is too soft to use, the Oak will be better for the joints. Working on cutting the knees etc. now and sanding and setting the camber on the new beams. Will update later.

Two events. My wood has arrived from Hobbymill ( beautiful, as always), and I have finished assembling my practice frame. Cutting and sanding by hand on the frame was SLOW. I'm not very happy with the frame, but I can see that with more repetition, both skill and speed should improve some. I hope so.
 
Now it's time to start building the real frames.
 
Bob

Welcome to the cross section build. Believe you will have some fun here. Your start looks good.  What types of wood are you using?

Lots of progress in the last few days. After a lot of measuring, the clamps were cut and installed.  Foot waling installed on the Port side (Stbd will be left more exposed).  I was very disapointed with the bass wood I used for the first attempt at the linber strakes...too fuzzy.   Back to the Boxwood.   I cut one edge on the table saw with a 45° angle.  I then put the rough piece in the vise and sanded a parallel edge on the other side of the plank.  There is a small 45° edge going the other way that gives the bottom of the limber a firm edge to rest in the rabbet.  I marked 3 ' centers, drilled with a 1/16" bit (3" at scale) and cut them. 
Before treenailing, I gave the floors a coat of water based conditioner, then a coat of Poly.   I used the Rust-oleum Ultimate Matte finish on my Fair American and really liked the look...much better than the Satin finish from MinWax.  The reason for doing it now is about to become obvious.  I did not want my treenailing to leave a stain.  Drawing about 400 treenails and installing , then sanding them down (without maring the planks) just is not how I wanted to spend the next several weeks, so I used MinWax walnut colored wood putty.  Rubbed it into the holes with a small spatula, wiped off the excess, then ran a wet Q-Tip over the planks and all the residue came right off.  Except where I need the tree nails for strength, I'll probably use this method again.
By the way, the Sand Blaster extra fine 400 grit (from MMM) is a great product for final finish. 
I think I'm caught up with the end of the last instructions for now so I'll wait patiently for Greg to post the next chapter.
Maury

Thanks, Paddy Daniel and Bob.
 
All of the hanging knee blanks are rough cut out with the one in the
foreground cut and ready to be installed.
 

 
Here are a couple of close ups to show the various angles etc that have
to be cut into them to fit around the other knees and hull planking.
 

 
After they are all done it will be time to add all the carlings and cut those pesky notches.   
 

 
 

Started on the aft portion of frame "C" and thinking I should pause at this point and work out the fixture that I will use to assemble and glue-up the frames now. I have some idea also of the care I’ll need to take in cutting the keel and keelson notches. After roughing out the notches with the scroll saw I used a small file set and hobby knife for the clean-up and fitting. Kind of slow going but I enjoyed the work.

Thanks for checking in. All the frames are raised and in place. The next job will be to fair the frames, hope there is enough meat on the frames for this.
Here's a few pictures of my progress to date.
 

 

 

 

 
Just had to take it out of the jig to see how it looked. Surprised how strong the frames are already...
 

 

 
Time to start sanding....sanding...sanding....

Thanks for checking in. All the frames are raised and in place. The next job will be to fair the frames, hope there is enough meat on the frames for this.
Here's a few pictures of my progress to date.
 

 

 

 

 
Just had to take it out of the jig to see how it looked. Surprised how strong the frames are already...
 

 

 
Time to start sanding....sanding...sanding....

Here is former Chad86 timberlist for the cross sections
I could only load a pdf if anyone wants the excell format pm me with you email
Timber list cross section.pdf

Rob perhaps if you cut them into shorter lengths then you could first of all split them in half with and ax and a small heavy hammer.
Take say an 16 inch pieces which is approx 600 mm place the axe squarely across the centre of the log and hit the back of the axe with the hammer this will split the log lengthwise into two halves, take each of the halves and split them up into quarters. you can then set your axe to a position that is about 30mm  parallel to one of the first split faces and repeat the splitting. I have done this on quite a few occasions, and the advantage is that the wood slits along the grain which relieves some of the inherent stresses the wood dries quite well this way.
 
Here is a series of pictures that i just took perhaps 15 minutes worth of time to cut a 200mm log of wet aspen
 sorry I did not have any other on hand.
 

1 chainsawed the knot off the end

2 chainsawed about 14 inches of straight grain

3 Set axe across centre.

4use hammer to split wood

5 two halves ready to be quartered

6 set axe to approx 30mm and split again

7 and again

8 veiw showing the quarter cutting no sawdust yet other than the chainsaw

9 Piece clamped ready to smooth out a little prior to sticking

 few wet shavings the piece is ready to dry.
 
Ron think about how long you really need the wood to be, most of us cut the wood up into shorter lengths anyway and a 12 -15 inch 300 to 400 mm length is easy to split with an axe.
 
I hope this helps. good luck with the wood.
 
Michael
 
 

Some time ago I read up on making a ropewalk. The important part is that the three or four threads making up the rope have to be spun independently. It required three sets of gears.
 
Along comes my grandson and his KNEX ‘tool box’. This toy is great for youngsters who have some interest in building things. It is a modern version of the ‘erecto set’ I used to have. I scratched my head and decided to use the various gears and shafts to build my ropewalk.  
The pictures below probably explain the details better than I can in words.

 
 
The end to the left is the sled which has to be able to slide in the track. A string with the grey pulley has some weights hanging down to keep an even tension. Notice a little crank at one end. That was quickly replaced with an electric hand drill. Likewise another hand drill spun the other end.
This worked fine and I made lots of rope.
 
The problem was, however, that I have to be able to turn both ends as I am making rope. I would give one end a few spins, stop and go to the other end. One reason they call this a ‘rope walk’, I guess. Sometimes my admiral would help me, but she is not always available. So back to the KNEX tool box.
 
 
I jury rigged one end with a large and smaller gear driven by a variable speed hand drill. Notice the twister tie on the trigger. Now I can ‘control’ the speed, use a switch at the other end to operate the drill while I was holding a hand drill at the far end.
Still not good enough. KNIEX has several types of electric motors. I mounted one on top of the moving sled, hooked it up with another set of gears.
 
 

 
Now I stand back and watch the action without touching anything except the switches. Besides, the results are much better with a more uniform twist all along the eight foot length of rope.

You should see my toolbox at work. Maintenance on cnc machinery and metal parts fabrication.  We have machine built in america from the 1940's to present, then we also have machines from Japan, Germany, England, Australia, Sweden, China, Taiwan, just to name a few. Some were partially built overseas then finished here, makes it a real nightmare to work on them  

Here is former Chad86 timberlist for the cross sections
I could only load a pdf if anyone wants the excell format pm me with you email
Timber list cross section.pdf

Hello Pete and Larry,
Thanks very much for that gents. When I attempt the four for the Triton I’ll just pretend that they were booty from four different foreign foundrys.
 
Looking at a printout of my Keel Parts Templates page and laying a straight edge on the Keelson there is a slight curve to it. Is this correct or has my printer run amuck?
 
Cheers

When cutting the notches in the frames for the keel and keelson I use my mill. I know you can do this easily by hand, but the mill was there 

I started by making sure the vise I was using was square and straight with the head by using a dial indicator to indiacte it in (within .002 to .003 straight)
I would then clamp the frame sections in with the line just even with the top of the vise. On the first one I did I set the depth that I would need. This will keep all the remaining frame members cutting to the same depth and repeatability.
 

 
Then I used a 3\8 4 flute end mill to cut the notchs.
 

 
Using the Keelson or Keel I would check the fit of each cut and adjust as need with the mill or a 150 grit sanding stick
 

 
Doing it this way for me also let me keep the notch square with the frame as I would also check this each time.
 

 
Hope this helps someone

As stated in my previous post, here are some pictues and explanations on the way I have been doing it. If you have another way or better way please feel free to  post it here or comment (critisize)
 
When sanding the end of my frame members, I have been using a disc sander with a 320 grit paper. I use this because all the rest were a 80 grit and that was way to rough for me (takes off to much to quick) the 320 grit was just about right, had to go slow so as not to burn the end of the wood, so this let me control amount taken off. Sanded up to the line and left it.

 
Also before starting any sanding I always check the table to the disc for squareness. Even though I did not change anything between frame I found the table had move a little after each use. (no matter how much I tightened it)  THIS IS A MUST
 

 

Hello Hopeful  David
It is great to see your Sultana back here in the build logs. I am going to follow your build again.  I plan on getting back to mine after my sidetrack to the darkerside
 
I may go ahead a repost what I have. It can show other people what not to do
 
Looking forward to build, you have always done such a great job.

Hi Mates,
 
Post #1 of my Sultana Build
 
The Sultana is my second build and is in progress....not quite 50 percent completed. I Will repost my build log up to this point and continue posting as I continue building the vessel.
 
For the repost, I will provide photos and return and add some dialog later.  Each post will be numbered as well as each photo so future builders can communicate with me efficiently if they any questions as they build their own Sultana.
 
Please note I am building the vessel following MSW's directions as well as Chucks excellent tutorial. I jump around the instructions a bit when building. My recommendation is that you follow along using Chuck's practicum.
 
As Shortgrass indicated there were a number of Sultana builds that we builders could refer to when building our own Sultana's. Some of the builds were completed and others not. All of the builds were lost so it is important we get a few Sultana builds back on the forum. Hopefully other Sultana builders will repost their logs as well.
 
Photo 1
 
Box art
 

 
Photo 2
 
Solid hull
 

 
Photo 3
 
Wood build materials
 

 
Photo 4
 
Ships boat
 

 
Photo 5
 
Bits and pieces along with rigging cord
 

 
Photo 6
 
Flags
 

 
Photo 7
 
Hull templates
 

 
Photo 9
 
I created a note book for my Sultana build incorporating both the MSW plans and Chucks Practicum.
 

 
This replica show the beauty of the Sultana on the water.
 

 
The build begins. More later.......
 
BFN,
Hopeful aka David

When cutting the notches in the frames for the keel and keelson I use my mill. I know you can do this easily by hand, but the mill was there 

I started by making sure the vise I was using was square and straight with the head by using a dial indicator to indiacte it in (within .002 to .003 straight)
I would then clamp the frame sections in with the line just even with the top of the vise. On the first one I did I set the depth that I would need. This will keep all the remaining frame members cutting to the same depth and repeatability.
 

 
Then I used a 3\8 4 flute end mill to cut the notchs.
 

 
Using the Keelson or Keel I would check the fit of each cut and adjust as need with the mill or a 150 grit sanding stick
 

 
Doing it this way for me also let me keep the notch square with the frame as I would also check this each time.
 

 
Hope this helps someone

I have found on the web a wonderful tutorial called 'LOFTING TUTORIAL: A ship hull in 3d' which you can download as a pdf file and which answers perfectly how to use TurboCAD to loft frames.
 
I hadn't realised there was a function called 'lofting', but of course the moment I found it, a whole host of answers to my problem came at once. Thus 'prisms' are part of the lofting function. They all let you link different planes and points.
 
Sorry if this is incredibly obvious to CAD users, but I'm posting this in case it's of any use to others who like me are starting up in the world of CAD lofting.
 
Tony

Just a little more to post at this time. I have been cutting my lumber to size for the planking and such and have the beams cut to size.
 
I made a little bending jig by gluing the frame drawing to a piece of wood and hammering finishing nails along the beam edge and then I soaked the beams in hot water for about an hour and mounted them in my bending jig. I will let them dry for a day or two before removing them from the jig. I think it will work just find. When that is done I will repeat the whole process for another set. Thanks to Snowmans idea.
 

 

 

 
Hope I don't get any mold on the wood or I will have to do the old bleach trick on them.
 
Well, back to work, still making planking..