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Some Idea

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About Some Idea

  • Birthday 08/10/1967

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    Male
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    Dudley Black Country England

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  1. Yes they are but just like model kits they are pirated from the genuine manufacturers.
  2. I'm with Chris on this but everyone has a budget and maybe you could make it work for you. I have a couple of Innocraftmans products and the vice I have is very nicely made. However it's not that strong and like the other item I have its a little rough around the edges. I knew this when I bought them and they do exactly what I require them to do. I would search wider on the net for reviews but if you want a serious mill my instincts are to stay away and save for something better.
  3. I don't think that there is a downside for using your techniques at all. As you say there is a lot of computer work; but the thought processes you must go through to transcribe drawings into a precise 3D cut must be a very difficult challenge. The blend between manual and machine cut parts is in my opinion the future of this hobby. Fantastic job and hanging the ship to drill out the hawse holes - I'm going to give that a try on my next build.
  4. Hi Ken - sorry I've not replied I'm away in the truck all week and it's tricky to reply on my iPhone. tmj has hit the nail on the head I use a reinforced double sided tape. The problem is getting the tape off of the back of the freshly cut brass without bending or twisting it. I found that if I put the complete cut (the thin strip of brass still attached to the wood) into a saucer of alcohol - not whiskey but IPA it just melts the adhesive and the 3 components separate very easily.
  5. Just a little update from me today. Ive been working on the moulded rail around top of the bow and I did cheat a little. Instead of making it out of two separate planks I made it from one piece which simply wrapped around the bow. I couldn't think of a better way of doing it so this is what I did. I have also shaped the final 4 timber heads - I'm really glad that I left the timber heads on the frames instead of adding them on later. They are so solid being an integral part of the frame and because of this they are simple to file into shape. I've not yet finished the rail where is curves down towards the main deck cap rail as it needs some more detail. I'm unsure how to achieve this extra detail at the moment but hopefully a solution will come to me nearer the time. For some reason I really like this view of the bow - it still amazes me that parts I made nearly 5 years ago when I was just starting out are pretty much spot on. The bow should however be a sharp point and not rounded as it is now. The nice thing is I can correct this with the cap rail. My next jobs are the two final planks around the bow and the cap rail. Mark
  6. I really like epoxy resin it's a great all round glue. I use it for gluing metal parts of all sizes to wood as it gives such a good bond. As Dr PR has mentioned it cleans up nicely with IPA. So what I do is mix a little at a time and then immediately clean any excess with a small brush and IPA. It works a treat!
  7. Your method makes the job so much easier! I've book marked the Model cars website as their brass rivets look like exactly what I need. They are currently out of stock but I'll keep checking in. The good news is they also ship worldwide. Hi Toni - thanks for your suggestion and this is something I did try in the past. I never seemed to be able to get a consistent bolt head size and shape using this method. It was quite a while ago though so I think I'll revisit this to see if my technique could be improved. Mark
  8. Hi Marc and thanks so much mate! I didn't plan how the planking would look I just got lucky with the particular piece of Castello I was using. What I do try and do though when planking is cut them all from the same plank. That way the colour and texture is similar but this also wastes a lot of wood particularly when spilling. I hadn't tried spilling before this build but due to the plank thickness which is 3.2mm thick in places I had no option but to learn how to do it. I simply watched and followed the tutorials on MSW and now I wouldn't use any other technique as the plank always sits flat on the frames and the clinkering effect just isn't there. It takes a little more effort but it's well worth it. I also have to admit I had to google "chatoyant" but that really does sum it up in terms of looks. Cheers Mark
  9. Hi Gerard thanks for your very nice comment on the build so far. I completely agree with you regarding the nail heads they are out of scale. I think I need to order quite a selection of differing nail sizes online so that I have a better choice when building. I find buying them a bit hit and miss online as its difficult to gauge their size without physically seeing them. If anyone could recommend a good supplier and a particular brand that would be very helpful to me - maybe drop me a personal message? Mark
  10. I've made a few alterations this weekend as I was unhappy with the triangular ringbolts. I was also unhappy with the way the ship looked with the main hatches in place in the hull. They just looked out of keeping compared to the open format that I've been following.........so I cut the hatches in half. It was one of those no turning back moments. I remade the ringbolts having made mandrel for the shape and I also made separate eyebolts this time too. I'm much happier with the result this time and they do look more realistic. They are now fully fitted into the hull and I now like the way they look as it's more in keeping with the rest of the ship. I was going to make the pumps next but that's on hold until my Xmas present arrives. My fantastic wife has bought me a 17" Sherline lathe which will pretty much finish off my tool collection. I can't wait to set it up and give it a go! So instead I think I'll focus on finishing the bow planking first Mark
  11. I learnt my lesson the hard way - I'll do it this way next time as this makes better sense. Chris don't be put off by my comments it's just the shape of the hull at the stem and stern that seemed to take its toll on my knuckles. The process is enjoyable as you see the interior take its true shape.
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