Some Idea
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About Some Idea
- Birthday 08/10/1967
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Le Rochefort by Some Idea - 1/24th Scale - First POF Build
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USF Confederacy 1778 by WalrusGuy - Model Shipways - 1:64
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Thanks very much Alan - I would say that your idea of a lanyard is probably spot on. It would be so easy to lose the cover at that point on the ship. -
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Le Rochefort by Some Idea - 1/24th Scale - First POF Build
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Thanks Andreas I'm following your fantastic build too. Only a little update this week. I completely forgot to make the supporting knees for the catheads; I only realised this when I was taking stock of the drawings and where I was now. They are so simple to make I think it took less than 20 minutes for both of them. However the fitting was a good couple of hours as like the catheads the knees are cut into the moulded and rail and partly the planking too. I just took my time but I think they finish the catheads off really nicely. Next I made the frame of the offset hatch just above the stove. This is a different construction to the other frames on the ship which I guess is this way due to it being higher up on the ship. I really wanted to get angles right on this frame as it's one of the first things you see when you look at the forecastle deck. I'm not going to make the cover for it as I like the open look so that you can see the stove below. Now apart from a few ring bolts I think thats the forecastle deck finished. My next task is definitely the pin rail Cheers Mark
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If you want a nice polished finish close grained hard wood is probably the best for this. Personally if I want a really polished finish I work my way down the sand paper grades to 400 and then finish with a grey scotch pad. It's the scotch pad that gives the polished finish but is not a good surface to glue onto. If you want a mega polished finish Foredom sell pink coloured sanding discs which are 1600 grit. They really make wood shine but can only do small areas
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Good to see you back - those little Veritas squares are great I use mine all of the time
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L'Artésien 1764 by Cpt.Barbossa - 1:48 - 64-gun ship from plans by Jacques Fichant
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Speedwell 1752 by giampieroricci - Scale 1:96 - from Antscherl & Herbert monograph
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1:48 La Renommée 1744 - CAF Model
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1:48 La Renommée 1744 - CAF Model
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HMS Sphinx 1775 by Ronald-V - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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HMS Sphinx 1775 by Ronald-V - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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HMS Sphinx 1775 by Ronald-V - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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La Renommee 1744 by ChrisLBren - 1/48 - 2025
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L'Amarante by marsalv - 1:36 - POF
Some Idea replied to marsalv's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Precise woodwork and lovely brass work; what's not to like! here It will be nice to see the stove sat on the area you have prepared too. -
I think you're right I can just imagine them smashing holes through for a quick build! Hi mate - yes it does rotate within its stocks. Hi Chris the actual hinging part is 3mm wide - 1mm per part. The hinge pin is 1mm.
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Some more work done and this time it's the windlass pawl which is a very simple mechanism on this ship. Firstly I made the hinge out of brass but I forgot to take any photos of the actual process. It was quite simple really as all I did was to silver solder some 2mm tube onto some 1mm plate and then put it in the milling machine. The only issue I could foresee was that the holding point in the vice was very small so only light cuts could be taken. I also had the machine running at 10k rpm which lessoned the vibration during cutting. Why is it I always drill one hole out of line? I wouldn't mind but I centre punched it too........ The pawl has a wooden piece that it is recessed into - its this wooden part which locks into the windlass. Finally the completed installation and I'm glad to say that it did fit into the windlass My next job will be the hatch surround on the forecastle deck and then the pin rail. Thanks for all of the comments, likes and help Mark
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Andreas that really is such precise lovely work - congratulations so far.
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What lovely carpentry and all by hand too - you certainly have skills with hand tools.
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Gregory and druxey - thanks both for the information. Your ideas should definitely improve my efforts so I'll give them a go.
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Thanks very much Keith
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Hi Everyone I have a confession - I struggle making decent ring bolts 😒 I was given great advice by druxey on how to make the actual ring or triangle and I can do this part. Making these shapes is ok for me now and I silver solder them together and end up with very nice rings and triangles. However it's the part the ring or triangle is attached to that goes into the deck that I am struggling with. Currently I'm making eye bolts to fit them too but they never seem to look that good when assembled. They always come out in different sizes and it's so fiddly trying to fit the parts together. So help me out and let me know your techniques as I really need to improve this part of my modelling. As a general rule I am currently using 0.5mm and 0.8mm brass to make these fittings if this helps. Looking forward to hearing from the forum - Mark
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Thanks Steve - you are right about emotional preparing yourself. Honestly I went to make the first cuts twice and didn't before I finally just got on with the job. I just kept on thinking that if I didn't make the cuts square and tight it would ruin the look of the bow. Next time will be easier though as I now know that I can do it. Thanks Brad I actually really enjoy documenting this build and I'll probably do the same with my next build too. Hi Greg thanks very much and yes you are correct; part of my apprenticeship was tool making at a time when most parts had to be made rather than bought. My "operating table" as my family call it is fantastic. I'm really looking forward to my next build when I can raise frames on it which is when I can start making additional helpful attachments. I've got quite a few ideas in my mind which hopefully will work. Thanks so much thats a very nice thing to say
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Another update on Le Rochefort and this time it's the catheads and snatch sheave blocks. Making the catheads I found to be relatively straightforward; the only issue I had was that my end mill was too short to complete the sheave slots from one side. It was just one of those times when you have to trust your datums and turn the piece over to complete the cuts. Now fitting the catheads is not easy at all. You need a bit of bottle to cut through your newly made gunwale, moulding and waterway. I just took my time and removed little pieces at a time. Next I made the snatch sheave blocks - these are really nice to make as they really make you plan the cutting order to still be able to hang onto them. Next were the sheaves and I have had this piece of ebony wood knocking around in my drawer for ages. So I thought it would be very nice to make them out of that. To finish all of the pieces off I made the ring bolts, iron ring and fitted the sheaves in place. And finally I fitted all of the parts to the ship Next up I'm going to finish off the windlass by making the locking pawl. Cheers Mark
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You're not wrong I think you're looking at about 6 hours work for 8 cleats! But a challenge is a challenge
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