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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Sweet! That looks very nice indeed, Chris.
  2. druxey
    Damp hardening won't work on polyester, only cotton. I should have asked first. Chuck set you right on that.
  3. druxey
    Exemplary, Mark!
  4. druxey
    Glad you cracked the problem and it all works now!
  5. druxey
    The unravelling may be a function of the lay of the rope versus the lay of the strands - they need to go in opposite directions, Also, newly laid rope need to be hardened. This is done by stretching it on the ropewalk before cutting it loose. I damp the line as I stretch mine. Done correctly it won't subsequently unravel. And don't knock the look of the machine - if it works, it works!
  6. druxey
    Is part of the deviation issues that you illustrate due to distortion of the original plan due to paper expansion/contraction or in the reproduction process?
  7. druxey
    Congratulations! Long may you enjoy its use. I notice the very useful manual is included in your purchase. You may find, as I did, that a small shim might be required to align the head and tailstock. Some tool bits might also require shimming to be accurately on center. I never felt a more powerful motor was needed.
  8. druxey
    Chacun a son goût: Each to their own. If you plan on lots of turning or have deep pockets, well, it's another nice toy to have.
  9. druxey
    I simply pull a coarse sanding strip back and forth with the spar held in a vise. Rotate the spar about a quarter turn after every few pulls. Finish with fine sandpaper.
  10. druxey
    First class work, as usual!
  11. druxey
    Why any ship modeler would spend serious money on a long bed lathe simply for turning a few spars mystifies me. For a start, parts of a mast are often foursquare in section, and sections of yards are eightsquare. You would also need a four jaw self-centering chuck for this. Real mast and spar-makers don't use a lathe. They cut the spar to a foursquare section including any taper, then eight. For models, it's then easy to round off the spars using sandpaper strips. The secret - if secret there be - is in accurate marking out and making a spar holder that will support the stick at 45 degrees. A lot cheaper than a lather, unless you plan on turning a lot of wood! Some samples of spars at 1:48 made without a lathe in sight:
  12. druxey
    I'd be amazed if you nailed those timbers the first time, Alan! Hopefully the second pair will go perfectly once the Christmas rush is over.
  13. druxey
    Congratulations and very best wishes, Chris. Nice blank canvas for you fill!
  14. druxey
    The Unimat featured in post #43 is fitted with a cross slide attachment to traverse it longitudinally. When engaged it saves a lot of turning a handwheel!
  15. druxey
    My Unimat DB has done well for me now for over 50 years - used, but not abused. The only drawback is that taper turning is a bit awkward. The headstock needs to be turned, as the cross-slide is fixed at a right angle to the bed. The basic boxed set was $CAN99 back in '72!
  16. druxey
    Completing such a complex project is a major achievement. Well done!
  17. druxey
    Actually, I discovered just now that it has already sold. Sorry about that. 400,000 pounds sterling.
  18. druxey
    Well, if you would like an early Christmas present and you have deep pockets, this is for you!
  19. druxey
    Slightly off-topic: wefalck; there are a number of Unimat thread chasers and patterns currently listed on eBay. It is surprising how many 'NOS' items pop up there, as well as used.
  20. druxey
    I would normally never dare to contradict wefalck, but the 'old' Unimat DB/SL had a (metric) thread-cutting attachment (no. 1270) available years ago. Examples are still available, for a price, on the second hand market.
  21. druxey
    Whew! Quite the exchange of ideas and views, to which I can add but little. All I can say is that there are several contemporary models in frame that should also be seriously considered.
  22. druxey
    Well, there have been many good points raised. The most pertinent being what is the range of items you want to make on this hypothetical lathe? If it's only occasional small parts of medium precision, an old original Unimat will so the trick nicely. Mine is from the early '70's before they went to plastic parts. High precision small parts? A well-kept used watchmakers' lathe. A Boley or Levin are good - I've used both. However, items like collets can run up the cost quickly. Serious model engineering? Sherline. Julie: those 19th century inventors and engineers are a fascinating study in themselves. Brunel Senior's block-making machines, for a start.
  23. druxey
    A clenched bolt, under planking, would be very awkward to replace easily. Perhaps the idea of a 'heavy wood thread' is confusing this with a ragged bolt. This was more permanent, with arrow-like projections along the shaft that allowed easy driving, but prevented the bolt from being withdrawn again. Until relatively recent times - the early to mid 19th century - threaded bolts were hard to manufacture.
  24. druxey
    The burnisher needs to be pressed down hard as you run it along the scraper and at a slight angle, Mike. This raises the burr.
  25. druxey
    Sometimes a squirrel wife is very useful! (I have one of my own.)

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