druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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That is a lot of sanding and elbow grease! -
A little bird tells me that there will be a book out later this year on all the Stuart Royal yachts, from Mary onward!
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That looks good, K!
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Just catching up, Marc. A fascinating volume! Your small-scale rope coils and lines look very convincing. I only use white glue on line and it works very well.
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- heller
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That does look as if the sheet moved during laser etching. Those pieces should have been accurate mirror images of each other. Your methodical approach will pay dividends!
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Alpayad: 'arches for the ports' is a good description for rigols and must be one and the same. Well spotted!
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The absence of rigols on contemporary models does not necessarily mean that they were absent on the actual ships.
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Terrific work all round. I presume that you counted the number of ball-bearings to match the original, didn't you?
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That is a lot of detail! Does it deserve a cutaway?
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Looking good, Alan.
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Potential buyers please note that this model is based on the 1724 rebuilt ship, not the original 1682 yacht of King Charles.
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Tight joints? Practice, practice, and practice!
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It's your model - your decision. It should reflect your own taste, not ours!
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If the hull is of basswood (it probably is), dents can often be relieved by brushing water on the area. It re-expands the wood fibers. Looks like your shaping is going well.
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Very inspirational! And thanks for your comments on FreeCAD, Gary. I might just try it!
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Nice progress, wefalck. Looks like one stanchion lost the battle, though!
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Mark: My fretwork was produced by using micro chisels, small drills and files. Each motif was a separate piece. I recall that I was grateful, as a couple of parts got messed up in process - it meant that the whole run wasn't ruined! The material was white butyrate plastic, I believe. (This model was made over 40 years ago, so I can't remember every detail!)
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It will be very difficult to fret out a curved piece unless you do it concave side up. The other problem to overcome is the compound curves on the quarter galleries.... Need to think this over. My Polyphemus had a solid 'backing' that I laminated up. The pierced parts were fretted in individual sections and fitted together on the backing. Perhaps a variant using a temporary backing might work?
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Terrific! First class work, Matiz.
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Well done!Now please find a protective case for her - she's worth it.
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- Norwegian Sailing Pram
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Two thoughts: One, sometimes the purpose of something on a plan only becomes apparent when you model the ship in 3D. I've had many "Aha! So that's why they did it that way" moments. Two: were those 'proposed alterations' actually carried out?
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Well, I bet you were very wide awake drilling those tubes out! Well done. Small item: it's such a nice model, I'm going to point out that the belaying pins you have look far too chunky. The handle diameter is usually no more than 2" at full size and the pin 17" long overall. See a typical example at: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-3892?_gl=1*hlwx9x*_up*MQ..*_ga*OTc2MjMzNTAuMTc0MDM0MTQyNQ..*_ga_7JJ3J5DBF6*MTc0MDM0MTQyNC4xLjAuMTc0MDM0MTQyNC4wLjAuMA..*_ga_4MH5VEZTEK*MTc0MDM0MTQyNC4xLjAuMTc0MDM0MTQyNC4wLjAuMA.. I'm sure that you won't regret a re-do, Bruce.
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Welcome back, Remco! That light fixed block wil also darken on exposure to light and air. In a year or two - like the holly - it will blend in nicely. I'd forgotten what a nice job you've done so far. For drilling scuppers, I mark out carefully outside and in, then drill small pilot holes from both sides. They should meet - or almost meet- in the middle. A small round file will make any corrections before progressively enlarging to the correct diameter. Drilling should never be done from one side alone! As a cheat, you could simply drill blind holes from each side.
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Ladders are usually shown in the companionways. If you can look at draughts of similar vessels, usually the layout of these is similar. The two rectangles are scuttles (proposed - see Toni Levine's observation). They would have had solid covers flush with the deck, with lifting ring bolts.
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